Oh, I had to restrain myself on the track sag mg.mikael! Most of the reference photos I have show just a touch of sag so went that route.
Jason, I can't take all the credit! Dragon did a bang up job on that!
Update for ya! First off the funny blue vision ports: Dragon molds all the vision port parts in clear styrene allowing one to model the ports open with actual clear vision blocks inside! Nice touch! However my build will have them all closed so I didn't use any of the interior parts with the exception of the clear vision blocks. I didn't want these painted over so I just blue tac'ed the outer parts on the hull and will remove them later to add the vision blocks.
Then I ran into some fit problems. There was a sizeable gap between the lower front glacis and the upper front glacis when mating the upper and lower hulls. I filled this with .010 x .040 strip styrene and then sanded it flush.
The upper hull still didn't sit flush with the fenders and lower glacis so I had to file, scrape and sand part of the interior surface to get a decent fit.
The upper engine deck did not want to meet the lower engine deck resulting in another sizeable gap. After fiddling with different methods of eliminating the gap I found that the best way was to pop of the fenders at the rear and shave off about .075 x 1/2" along the top of the lower hull (where it mates with the fender). This allows the fender to sit fractionally lower thus allowing the engine decks to mate properly. There was no noticable change to the fender alignment and the scar from removing the glued on fender is hidden once its glued back in place
I also decided to open up the engine intakes so that the screens would look more realistic. Only one side is done in the photo, but the other side is already done as I type this.
Ernest
Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female
Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8
