ME-262: Reich Defender II 10/09-7/10

Mobious, sorry about your mishap, I've been really enjoying your work, fantastic work on the slats. I'm sure you will fix the damage splendidly.

Frank, good to see you working your usual magic, I also wonder how you make everything so 'clean', it's great to look at but just makes me wanna kick myself!

Mucker and Steve, really nice work chaps. Mucker is yours the clear one aswell?

Fred my paint aint arrived yet (or my treat to myself from New Zealand which I'm begining to get twitchy about ).

Anyway, a little update. Very slow progress but I'm in no rush. This is gonna be pretty much OOB although I will sort out a harness.

May look familier to some of you.

I used the kit decals with mixed results.

All comments welcome.

Cheers...

Thanks for the support guys, it was a low point in this build. Still working away on the fit of the engines, had alot of sanding on the mushed mount. Should have primer on it soon to get a better visual as to where it stands.

Mucker that's some awesome work on the instruments. The painting of the gauges is tops. Very nice work.

Daywalker, that's some serious detail, looking forward to seeing more of the pit.

 Mobious

Charles- Excellent work on that Tamiya kit, great to see you're making progress!

Mo- Oh, man!  I have had those days, and would not wish them on anyone.  Glad to hear you're getting things fixed up, as I am looking forward to seeing this one.

Fred- Sounds like there may be some crud in the nozzle causing those issues.  Have you disassembled it and given it a really good cleaning?  I always clean mine after every session, but every once in a while I take the entire AB apart and soak the parts in solvent to remove any residual crud.  Be careful with any teflon bushings (don't know about those AB's, but my Badgers have 'em) as solvents can wreak havoc on them.  Could also be a bent needle or damaged tip, have you checked those?

I made some more progress on the 262, modifying some kit parts on the IP.  The gunsight on the 262 was retractable and fold able, and could be moved out of the way when needed.  Trumpeter has the bar atop the IP broken where the gunsight goes, and the sight itself fits into the slot.  The fit was not so good, and it looked like exactly like what it was- the gunsight retraction tube with part of the IP and bar attached to it instead of the retraction tube going through a space between the IP and bar.  I wish I had taken a photo before to show what I mean.  But, I cut the gunsight apart to separate it from the retraction tube.  I fitted a section of .040 styrene rod into the gap, and smoothed it down.  Then, took a piece of brass tube and inserted it, and made a bracket out of strip stock.  I took a piece of brass wire the fit into the tube, and drilled a hole in the gunsight mount to insert.  Now, the assembly retracts just like the real one, and looks much better IMHO.  I also modified the left console part, drilling out the bottom gauge and enlarging the upper one.  I punched out two .040 discs from styrene, and inserted them from behind as there is a large gap behind the gauges between the clear piece and the gray plastic underneath.  Now, I can paint some gauge detail onto those discs, and add a clear lens over the top to replicate the gauges there.  Hope all of that made some sense!

Gunsight extended:

Gunsight retracted:

You can see the console piece with the discs in the foreground along with the kit-supplied gunsight retraction tube and mount, but it is so tiny it is hard to see what I did to it!

Hey Steve, there's no reference showing any internal structure past the cockpit.  I drilled a small hole on the left side of the dorsal seam.  I'm going to drop the aerial, down through the hole and just connect it to the radio.  There's absolutely nothing showing any of the wiring.

On another note, I layed down the Lichtblau, as it was the only color of the 4 that I had on hand.  But I'm getting all kinds of weird issues.  For some reason, the paint is drying before it gets to the plane.  I've tried varying amounts of thinner, different pressures - everything I can think of.  I even broke the brush down and gave it a thourough cleaning.  I noticed I was getting blobs of paint on the needle tip, so I don't know what can be going on.

-Fred

Sorry to hear of your wowes Mo, Ive done the same thing many times. Hope the fix goes well

Mucker, yep it looks very familure

Steve

Nice progress, Steve. I'm enjoying the same fine Tamiya kit.

Sorry to hear about the issues, Mo. I like the comment about the "swear jar"..

I've got a nice start going on the canon's and cockpit. Here are some preliminary pics of the WIP:

I feel you you, Mo -- I know the frustration of getting a build well along, then starting to do damage that undoes your hard work before. Last year I did a major conversion of an F-5A to a science fiction fighter plane and literally the last thing to do was remove the tissue masking the intakes. Well, it had dried out rock hard in there and trying to dislodge it cracked away the port intake, right through filler, paintjob and the custom decal on the aircraft's flank... The  turned blue! of course, in future I know to simply rewet the tissue and draw it out without any dramas, but we learn these things the hard way sometimes.

Mike/TB379

PS: Love the Kelly's Heroes quote!

Thanks for congrats Frank, took awhile.

 Well had a few misfortunes on the 262. While fitting the starboard slats, I stepped on the upper wing section and twisted the engine mount. I attempted to straighten it with pliers the best I could, but I'm afraid I will have to use putty. The second mishap occured when I dropped the fuselage, breaking the front landing gear. My swear jar runneth over. I have to start glueing this thing together before I totally destroy what's left. On a postive note, the engine's are built up, smoothed down and ready to be fixed as are the wings now too.

 Mobious

Wow Fred that is so funny that you asked that question, its what I was going around with in my mind for a long time. There are items on both sides but the radio is the most major component on the Left. I was just ready to post that I hope the pureists dont mind that I switched the radio position to the right. I had to shave the frame down a lot and brea up some parts but its all in there now. I dont have a wiring harness in my kit but again funny you brought it up. I spent the day painting wires for the rear fuselage as I presumed that there should be a bit of wiring and plumming back there for radio and compas. Going to wrapp different coloured wires and run them to the rear to give it a splash of colour. Does anyone have a pic of the area. I was going to look at past posts to see what you guys have done. That the good part of being behind all the experts.

Steve

Thanks Mo, I appreciate that!  And, congrats on 1000 posts! 

Fred- Thank you very much, I usally keep the camera far away until I clean up my boo-boos. LOL  And thank you as well for the info on the gun bay area.  I am planning on keeping it sealed up, as the A/C I am modeling had the guns removed and the bay taped over.  I really do owe you one for all of your build advice, it's like having that little angel on my shoulder guiding through.

Great looking progress, Steve . 

 I'm just curious as to why you chose the left side to be clear.  I went back and forth a few times myself, trying to decide which side should be visible.  From everything I've gathered, the radio equipment all mounts on the left side and the access panel is on the right.  But, the major wiring harnesses are on the right, as well.  So it bacame a question of, do I want to see the backside of the wiring, or the backside of the radio?  Ultimately, I decided that, while the back of the wiring harness wouldn't be pretty, staring at the back of the radio would a waste of the detail.  Of course, you could just turn the radio around and solve both problems  .  I look forward to seeing where you take this project and what your final vision is

Frank, looking good as usual.  I'll never get how you do such clean work.  As careful as I try to be, I always end up with random glue drips and fingerprints.  I spend more time cleaning parts up before I can show them, than I do building, LOL.  Another heads up fo you; the cross beam that goes over the gunbay (that the covers attach to) is a hair short, so stability is an issue.  Also, check the fit of the gun barrel cowling, as it can be very tight.  Don't be like me and over-sand it, because then you spend the next 2 hours trying to reshape it with styrene stock, .

Anyway, she's all taped off and ready for primer and pre-shading today.  Megahobby should have my paint to me in a few days - probably looking at an end of January completion date.

-Fred

 Nice progress Steve, I can appreciate the fit of the Tamiya kit. The guys there at Tamiya really produced a nice series of kits, and you're doing a great job on the clear version.

 Frank, the Trumpeter kit is a beauty, I like the looks of the seat. Nice work on the belts and rudder straps.

 Mobious

Excellent work Steve!  Thanks for the update.

I spent some time today on the Trumpeter 262, creating some lap belts from Eduard hardware and Tamiya tape belt material.  I had planned to use lead foil in this scale, but it was not co-operating so I went with my tried and true Tamiya tape.  I drilled holes in the top of the seat to place the small loops for the shoulder harnesses later in the build.  I was able to get the straps on the rudder pedals cut and shaped from the lead foil however.  Need to do a few things to the IP and then I can paint the cockpit.

OK fellas, just to prove there is progress on my build here are some pics of where I am. This build is the kind of kit where you have to do all the detail work first in sub assemblies and then it starts to come together fast or so I am hoping.

really enjoying the detail and fit of this Tamiya kit and the clear version I hope works the way I invision it

Steve

Thank you for the warning on the canopy parts Fred!  If you hadn't said anything, I would have put them on front, rear, middle too.  Hope to have some progress worth photographing soon, have been busy cleaning up parts and such. 

Thanks for that picture, Frank .  Looks like Trumpeter got it right, afterall.

But based on the picture of White 17 that we have (back on pg. 75), I'm just going to leave it off.  I should have decided that before, but I forgot we had that particular picture.

Frank, when you get to installing the canopy, pay attention as it's a very niggly fit.  I tried adding the rear, then the front and then the middle.  The middle section won't fit that way, so you have to install front, then middle, then rear.  I finally finished masking off the clear section, so now I'm off to pry off the rear canopy and try doing it the correct way, LOL

Thanks for the comments guys.

Gigatron, an interesting observation on the additional amour plate fitted to the canopy, be making a note of that.

Mobious

Mo- That is really looking good, well done on your scratchbuilt slat conversion!  Perhaps I shall try ths same thing the next time I build a Tamiya Schwalbe.

Fred- FWIW, the head armor would be attached to the canopy.  I read somewhere recently (though, can't remember where!) that it was usually removed to improve rear vision.  I looked through all of my reference books, and the only period 262 that I found to have it installed was a Czech-built Avia S.92. 

All of the wartime 262 photos sow them without the armor installed.  I plan to leave mine off.  Just my .

Gigatron I am heading back to camp today so will have a look at my books when i get back. I am pretty sure the Eduard PE instructions i am useing says that it goes into the canopy.

Mo, incredible scratchbuilding work

Hey guys, anyone add the headreast armor plate?  My reference shows 2 cockpits, one from the Deutches Museum and one from some other museum.  One has the armor plate, but the other doesn't.  And a note on the one that does, says that the plate isn't original and was added by the RAF (I'm assuming after capture).  But does that mean the original plate was lost and the RAF replaced it, or was it strictly an RAF addition? 

And while the pit that does have it, shows it as part of the pit assembly, Trumpeter shows it as part of the canopy assembly.  I have to assume Trumpeter got it wrong, based on the reference picture I have.  But it is possible that Trumpeter has reference of a plane that has an original plate and it is, indeed, part of the canopy.

Any suggestions on how I should tackle this?

-Fred

Aggie Love that 262, great work you have done there. As for it being your second dio, i wish my second one had been that good. I have been doing 1/35 figures for years and i still can't get the faces right.

As for what Hans said on the other thread, i would deffinatly recomend static grass, you can get it from woodland scenics in deiffent lengths. I would agree with him that the figure on the box is deffinatly out of place, but i don't think the two armed guys look that bad. A high ranking officer would no doubt have some protection. As for the rest, it will come in time. But you are off to a great start as far as dios are concerned.

Very nice work Mobious, really like what your doing. Everyone is doing great work. I am pluggy away on my engines and other items hope to have pics soon

Steve

That's some serious modeling, Mo. Nice scratch work.

A small update. The port slats are redone and installed, and the frame work for the starboard side has been finished up, just the inboard slat needs filed and sanded before being installed. The actuators will be cut to length and sanded prior to the final install of the slats. Originally .010" was planned for use as the actuators, ended up using .020" for added strentgh.

 Here's a shot of the starboard slats under construction

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 The port side assembled slats from the top

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...and from underneath

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 Tried to get a good fit at the wing root also

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

 Hope to close the gap abit more when setting the dihedral angle of the wings.

 Mobious

Fred, I'm getting the Gunze Aqueous paints, I know what you mean about the confusion, the site I used had both H422 and H423 down as RLM83 on the order form, I checked it out before I ordered and H422 is RLM82 and H423 is RLM83 Dunkelgrun (search for MDC models and you can see the colour swatches). I will check the bottle when it arrives. I look forward to seeing more of your build, I've enjoyed it so far.

Mike, thanks for the confirmation on the colours I ordered, I can relax a little now. Sorry about yours not working out, it looked good to me but we're our own worst critics. Better luck with the next one.

Cheers...

Great builds guys !!

Aggieman love your diorama it really adds huge amounts to the 262. I am amazed by anyone who can paint figures very well done.

Soulcrusher I really like your paint job and over all build. I am going to try my first motteling on my 262 build and have a question for you. Was a coat of green base color painted on then the looks like a grey motteling then was it fogged with the base color again to tone down the motteling ?

My build will be starting in a couple of weeks as soon as I get this move over with and my shop halfway set up again. I will have a real bench in a garage too instead of my TV tray.

Aggieman, the dio looks great. Figures are pretty good too. Kinda hard to paint faces in that scale. Very nice work on the layout.

 Soulcrusher, that's a beauty. The finish is great. I like the mottle camo on this one, very cool. Background is bright.

 Had the port slats installed, but didn't like the results. IMO there wasn't enough downward slant to them, so I broke out the knife( with a NEW blade) and removed them both. Getting ready to remount and finish up the slats. sorry no photo's yet.

Mobious

SC, not a fan of the new format either...

Great work on your 262, really came out nice!

Spike190

Hi everyone,

I've been keeping an eye on whats going on and I must say I'm seeing some great stuff so thanks to you all for posting so much.

Woohoo!! I finally managed to start my Tamiya 1/48 262A 1a last night so I will be posting more soon, it's to dark for decent photo's when I make it home from work so I will wait till Sunday or Monday and a nice bit of daylight. I've got some RLM 83, 82, 76 on order for  Major Rudolf Sinner's "Green 1" , do you guys think that sounds correct? last time I followed Tamiyas call outs on my 109 and it was wrong .

Cheers...

 

76/82/83 are correct for that one.

Hey Spike, which manufacturer of paint did you order?  If you could, when you get it, post which RLM is actually Dunkelgrun (forget what the bottle says, there's serious confusion issues with the manufacturers).

Thanks,

Fred

 P.S. And while I remember, The wings are on, but the scissor on the front strut is staying.  I used the white metal strut and the scissor is a cast-on piece.  To get it off would cause too much damage at this point.  It's better to have an inaccuracy than a broken model.