Glad the links were of help; just remember any time you use acetone as a solvent on anything “putty-like”, the fumes are not so nice, so ventilate the area.
Vetteman – great tip about the Bondo glazing putty.. I HATE how the squadron stuff flakes, I keep ‘cutting it” with nail polish remover to keep it moist during application.
Soulcrusher – the P-35 came out a beauty; excellent job on the NMF, looks great! You really did the Talon paints justice, the finish is magazine-quality. Once I have several more kits under my belt I will try out something besides MM metalizers. Maybe on NMF III ;)
Raptordriver – congrats on the finish. Very well done! Great bird, always one of my favs when I visit the A&S museum in DC. Great finish!
NiceFit- I tried the “simple” acrylic wash on my first Revell P-51D with very mixed results; ended up looking very dirty. I had enamels base, future coat (wait days to fully cure/dry) then the wash. I got couple bottles of “Pro-modellers” wash that I will try in my current builds, will let you all know how it works.
Owl – I have read several threads on pro/cons of priming before base coats. I use testors/MM enamels almost exclusively. I “prime” with Testors Flat Grey primer from the rattle can, but mostly to look for seam imperfections or other faults, or when I have mixed media (PE + plastic). Not sure about acrylics… one thing I do is to actually decant the rattle can into a small bottle and use the AB to spray the primer. At least on my (very newbie and clumsy hands), the paint comes too thick out of the rattle can, so I decant into a bottle first, thin just a tad and use my AB.