Panzerkampfwagen 38(t) GB...now closed

Nice little Hetzer you have there.. I guess the cammo was done with a brush. What did you use to make it look faded, some kind of wash? I like the other Hetzer, too. Were the dots done with a small brush or is there something other to that? I would like to try it myself on some of my future builds.

Thanks...

Back from the MIA list and armed with brand spankin new nikon coolpix L22.So far I am pleased with the pics and have been taking quite a few.Here is where I'm at with the Italeri Hetzer,and took a couple shots of it sitting next to the Dragon version I'm still workin on also


any comments or feedback are most welcome.

My Grille build has been extremly slow but here are some pics to prove I'm still in this build.

Erik

castelnuovo,

The idea behind the hole's shape is a cartoon 'thought bubble' Its basically a series of holes enlarged with a Dremel round cutting bit. I would have preferred to thin the side to scale but the cut-out was a after thought once the interior was underway. No it cannot be closed.

Here is the gun painted before installation, forgot to add scratches so they will be added with a bit of abrasive cloth & tweezers.

This shows the color difference before the wash of Raw Sienna over a coat of Future.

The modified sitting figure will be listening in on the two way radio inside Chwat..

Nice job SF, I love the cammouflage. Is that hole on the side to show the interior? How did you cut it? Can it be closed?

Cheers...

Heh everyone & everything 38(t)!

Have some WIP's to post, here they are:

The gun is mostly scratch built, hollow bore. A tad over scale but is not noticeable once inside.

Hit the lower hull with some washes to dirty up the lower parts. Tracks hit with a enamel flat black wash over a acrylic med. brown wash. The wheels were weathered while the washes were not fully cured with a abrasive pad in a circular motion. 

Satisfied with the lower hull there is still a lot of dust to add, the tank fought in the Warsaw streets. Reference photographs show a lot of dust and not mud. Tracks & road wheels need paint as well. Now concentrating on interior, gun painted and installed. Positioning a figure to be sitting inside.

I will be posting the work on my Hetzer soon. Just started back to teaching so things are slow going with modeling for the first couple weeks of school.

Everyone's work is looking pretty awesome!

Paint er' up buttercup!

Chwat had a visit to the paint shop yesterday morning, last night the green was added. Now for anyone why wasn't following earlier posts the color will be adjusted in the wash. This technique of building up to the correct color will allow for dynamic weathering later on....

Shown is the upper hull with all details added accept the remote MG 34. Note how close the hue is to the spray can's lid show below.

The green was masked using NEW poster putty, approximately 12 hours after the base coat of Krylon 'Buttercup' Quick on, quick off is the motto for this mask technique, it came off easy after the green dried for 1 hour. The green had a mist base coat of generic green spray paint followed with Tamiya Medium Green. 

* the picture with the glare was intentional to highlight the ridges from the green paint. This will be wet sanded flat before continuing, some may be sanded to the 'Buttercup' layer to start the weathering. Then a heavy wash, or thin layer of 'Color correcting' brown will go on before the German insignia.

Gentlemen,

Some nice work is going on here .

Yes, I did use the hairspray method. It was the first time I used it...lesson learned is that I should always apply two coats of hairsparay as one wasn't enough, the dark yellow paint sometimes came off during brushing exposing the plastic under it.

It took me a long time for this little bugger. Now I will have to take some time off from modeling. Work is busy and I was asked to do a speach at the local sports club and need to prepare for it etc

But I'll be checking this tread often.

Cheers...

I'm still here guys!  Been busy with the Italeri 38(t), but its been slow going....lots of fit problems, had to deal with major missing details and now I'm dealing with the DML indy links.  What a nightmare!  I'll post photos once I conquer these devil tracks (which could be a week or more!!)

castelnuovo - Nice looking Marder and that winter whitewash looks great!  Same question as SF:  Did you use the hairspray method?

SuppressionFire - Amazing detail work on that little Hetzer!!  Strange about those tracks!  Funny things happen when we build models, but I'd agree that the hull and skirts will hide them.  Oh, and thanks for your kind words!

Bufflehead,

Excellent work researching & executing details on your 38(t)!

castelnuovo,

Your Marder III looks great in whitewash, did you use the hairspray technique?

Chwat is progressing slower than anticipated due to less bench time than deserve or need! I hope to get paint on the upper hull in a day or two depending on spare time situation.

Here is some experimentation modeling the cooling jacket on the MG 34. I have one last draft made out of Pb foil.The muffler is scratch built in white styrene.

Here is the muffler on the tank, not glued to be remover for paint.

Lower hull, discovered the front tracks are 1 mm wider than the rear on each side, Pigeon toed! Can't or won't fix that, the skirt armor & fenders should hide the horror. The 'pins' sticking out are for scratch built spare track brackets, they are Titchy Train group rivets glued up side down.

Not much is going on on this tread..hey, where is everybody?

Well here is my humble Marder with my first attempt at whitewash.

Cheers...

I hope everyone had a great Labor Day weekend!   I spent a lot of it at the bench so here’s another update on my Italeri 38(t):

Most of the hull is done.  Typical of an older Italeri kit (is this a Zvedza rebox?), there were a lot of problems with parts fit and pin marks.  Nothing serious, just enough to slow things down.

Overall pic of the hull:

Some detail work:  1. Gaps in glacis and front plate filled with strip styrene for a better fit.  2. DML to the rescue!  I forgot I bought some Voyager parts to replace the MGs in the DML Ausf. G kit, so I stole the unneeded parts to replace the poorly represented MGs in the Italeri kit.  3.  You can’t see it now, but I added clear vision blocks to the inside of the hull and then protected them with blue tac.  4.  Poor engineering!  That seam should not be there…Ausf. Ds and later had a solid straight front plate.  I suppose Italeri thought that would be a perfect place for a parts joint!!  Anyway, I’ll fill that seam with stretched sprue and sand it smooth.  Hopefully we won’t notice it when done!

Continued:  5.  Finished the engine air intake by fabricating a cover made from strip styrene and PE hex bolts.

Lastly: 6.  Looking ahead to the turret, I have to laugh at how the commander’s 360° periscope is depicted in the kit!  Good thing DML has an extra periscope in the Ausf.G kit!  Don’tcha luv DML and all the extra parts they throw in their kits?!?

Oh, and I spent a good amount of time thinning the fenders to a more scale thickness.  You can just make them out in the first photo.

Okee dokee, back to work!  Hopefully I’ll have another update this weekend!

I've made great progress on my my Grille's SiG 33. What had me hung up for the longest time was the delicate gun sled. I've got it finished and the gun assembly is now completed and ready for paint. I've been working on the interior for for the last few days now just trying to posistion everything in the interior so I can get the base color down and then detail paiting can begin. I'd love to post pics but my photobucket account seems to think I've exceeded my bandwidth but I've deleted all linked pictures. Oh well, I'll find somewhere else to host pics.

Erik

Erik,

I have had 100% success completing GB's as well... vetteman42 granted me a carry-over, extension and extra time for NMF I into NMF II

Anyhoo.. Progress on 'Chwat'

^^^ Arcylic flat black wash before 'Krylon Buttercream' base coat.

^^^ Sink hole horror! Pb foil punched out was easiest fix.

Spray away! Wheels, idlers & sprockets.

Colors will turn out more accurate with brown wash. (thats my story & i'm sticking to it!)

Well, after putting my Grille M back in the box for a few months I've decided to tackle the annoying gun assembly again and try to complete this build. I've never failed to complete a GB before and this isn't going to be the first failure.

Erik

Gentleman, some very nice builds are happening here.

Bufflehead,, it is still my Marder III as WIP.  I have quite a way to go with it.

MTMARINE04, that is a nice model of the command version, I built it few months ago, before I got the GB idea. 

 Have fun...

SuppresionFire - thanks for the kind words!  Your Hetzer is looking great!  I luv all the interior detailing you've done on that little guy!  As for the duplicate post, I also thought the originator could delete his own ost, but either the option is hidden somewhere or I'm blind!

castelnuovo - Sorry to be confusing.  I don't know too much about all the Pz.38(t) variants and was  just wondering if the photos you recently posted are of a Marder II or III.   Also, see my response to MTMARINE04 below!

MTMARINE04 - Welcome to the GB!  That's a nice looking kit!  I just picked up DML's Hetzer Early Version and was thinking of adding it as a second build for this GB!  It would be cool to see both of these two similar kits being built up at the same time!  

Thanks! I am going to build a Hetzer Command Version from Dragon.

 Hi MTMARINE04, wellcome back,  ,hope all is well. Never too late to join, just let me know what would you like to build and I will add you to the list.

Bufflehead, I am not quite sure what do you mean by is the Marder a new build. Well, it is new, I have never built one before.

I am nearing the new part for me and that is a whitewash. I found several ways to do it but I am not sure which one would fit my skils. Will post some test photos.

Cheers...

Hey everyone, I am new to the forums one of my friends is on all the time and I am finally deciding to take a crack at it. Just got back from Iraq  not too long ago and had to finish up some projects that had been sitting around for a while...anyway I was wondering if it is too late to join the build?

bufflehead,

Excellent improvisation & scratch building skills demonstrated!

I thought the original poster could delete your own posts?

Anyhow I had a good few hours of bench time as well! I will just post the picture as it is basically self-explanatory. If you like further explanation look up this post on the 'No after market GB' Thread. 

Sorry guys, I don't know why this posted twice!    I edited the original post to correct a typo and somehow the post was duplicated.  I noticed it within a couple of minutes and tried to delete either post, but the delete option is not available.  If it bugs let me know and I'll send a request to one of the mods to delete.

castelnuovo, very nice 38(t) in dunkelgelb that you finished earlier!!  You say that's a Dragon kit?  I didn't know they released any 38(t) kits prior to the Ausf.G Smart Kit a couple of years ago, but I wouldn't be surprised if I just never noticed it!  Anyway thanks for the Ausf.D update.  I did a little research and I have to agree that it appears to be an Ausf.D.  BTW, is this new build above a Marder III?

As for my Italeri 38(t) Ausf D??  I actually made some progress over the last couple of weeks!  As usual construction began with the suspension and I immediately ran to some problems.  First, all the leaf springs in the kit had terrible sink marks on them. 

I couldn’t figure out how to fix them so in the end I decided to scratchbuild new ones!  Of course I copied the kit parts nearly exactly except for some bolt detail on the bottom:

After a few nights just building one I wasn’t keen to make 3 more sets, but instead came up with the bright idea of just molding new ones from resin!  I don’t have a lot of experience making my own resin parts, but I do have all the necessary components so I gave it a try.  The first attempt had a lot of air bubbles, but the second came out better.  However as I was looking inside the DML Pz.38(t) Ausf. G kit I discovered that the kit has TWO sets of leaf springs!!  One set has an oval cutout and the other doesn’t…turns on the oval ones were more appropriate for earlier Ausf.A-F AND they fit the Italeri kit parts nicely!  All I had to do to make them fit was fill the holes in the hull and redrill smaller holes for some 3/64 OD brass tubing.  These served as “axles” for the leaf springs so they can be mounted. 

After that mounting the roadwheels, sprockets and idlers was easy.

However, now I had to decide if the roadwheels that came with the DML indy link track set could be used, so I fit them on.  These roadwheels have much better detail and have the correct number of rivets/bolts around the rim, 32 instead of Italeri’s 16.

So here’s the crazy thing:  The diameter of the DML roadwheels matches those of the new DML Ausf.G kit and the Tristar Ausf.E/F kit, whereas the Italeri roadwheels are quite a bit larger.  However, when fitted on the hull, the Italeri wheels seem to space out correctly while the DML wheels seem to spaced too far apart!  I suspect this is an issue with the kit swingarms being incorrect.  ANYHOO, I decided I could live with the inaccurate number of bolts and will stick with the kit wheels. 

As you can see I tested some of the DML indy links on the sprocket to make sure they fit.  Teeth pitch was spot on, but the width was off.  Easy enough to fix with a spacer inserted between the sprocket halfs (which I haven't done yet as you can see in the photo). 

The idler needs the same easy fix and it turns out the kit wheels seem to be already properly centered to accommodate the new tracks…go figure!

Lastly I was dry fitting all the upper hull panels and decided to open up the air intake on the rear and add some photoetch mesh to spruce it up a bit.  Turns out there are some slats of some type under the mesh so I added them too.  I messed up the spacing a little but I don’t think anyone will notice once the mesh is on.

I may get a little more done tonight, but I’m going on a business trip tomorrow and won’t be back until late this week.  Probably won’t get back to the bench until next weekend!

castelnuovo, very nice 38(t) in dunkelgelb that you finished earlier!!  You say that's a Dragon kit?  I didn't know they released any 38(t) kits prior to the Ausf.G Smart Kit a couple of years ago, but I wouldn't be surprised if I just never noticed it!  Anyway thanks for the Ausf.D update.  I did a little research and I have to agree that it appears to be an Ausf.D.  BTW, is this new build above a Marder III?

As for my Italeri 38(t) Ausf D??  I actually made some progress over the last couple of weeks!  As usual construction began with the suspension and I immediately ran into some problems.  First, all the leaf springs in the kit had terrible sink marks on them. 

I couldn’t figure out how to fix them so in the end I decided to scratchbuild new ones!  Of course I copied the kit parts nearly exactly except for some bolt detail on the bottom:

After a few nights just building one I wasn’t keen to make 3 more sets, but instead came up with the bright idea of just molding new ones from resin!  I don’t have a lot of experience making my own resin parts, but I do have all the necessary components so I gave it a try.  The first attempt had a lot of air bubbles, but the second came out better.  However as I was looking inside the DML Pz.38(t) Ausf. G kit I discovered that the kit has TWO sets of leaf springs!!  One set has an oval cutout and the other doesn’t…turns on the oval ones were more appropriate for earlier Ausf.A-F AND they fit the Italeri kit parts nicely!  All I had to do to make them fit was fill the holes in the hull and redrill smaller holes for some 3/64 OD brass tubing.  These served as “axles” for the leaf springs so they can be mounted. 

After that mounting the roadwheels, sprockets and idlers was easy.

However, now I had to decide if the roadwheels that came with the DML indy link track set could be used, so I fit them on.  These roadwheels have much better detail and have the correct number of rivets/bolts around the rim, 32 instead of Italeri’s 16.

So here’s the crazy thing:  The diameter of the DML roadwheels matches those of the new DML Ausf.G kit and the Tristar Ausf.E/F kit, whereas the Italeri roadwheels are quite a bit larger.  However, when fitted on the hull, the Italeri wheels seem to space out correctly while the DML wheels seem to spaced too far apart!  I suspect this is an issue with the kit swingarms being incorrect.  ANYHOO, I decided I could live with the inaccurate number of bolts and will stick with the kit wheels. 

As you can see I tested some of the DML indy links on the sprocket to make sure they fit.  Teeth pitch was spot on, but the width was off.  Easy enough to fix with a spacer inserted between the sprocket halfs (which I haven't done yet as you can see in the photo). 

The idler needs the same easy fix and it turns out the kit wheels seem to be already properly centered to accommodate the new tracks…go figure!

Lastly I was dry fitting all the upper hull panels and decided to open up the air intake on the rear and add some photoetch mesh to spruce it up a bit.  Turns out there are some slats of some type under the mesh so I added them too.  I messed up the spacing a little but I don’t think anyone will notice once the mesh is on.

I may get a little more done tonight, but I’m going on a business trip tomorrow and won’t be back until late this week.  Probably won’t get back to the bench until next weekend!

A little update...

Bufflehad, I have built that same model just from Dragon and it was marked as ausf D. Just go back few pages, I have posted few photos of it.

Cheers...

detailfreak,

Which Cannon camera are you using? I just use automatic with the 2 second timer, if the picture looks bad on the 2x3" view screen on the back it is deleted, light or distance to subject is changed and taken over. One more thing, I never use 'zoom' just position the lens close, if the focus green box won't appear then the distance is increased untill it wants to auto focus.

Mine takes better pictures (close-ups) on the dark side, no flash as it floods to much light in. Also may I suggest a flat back ground, it appears you have a glossy back drop. Construction paper (blue or green) works great, allow it to bend without a fold. Position the model so just the color paper is in the back ground.

Hope these photography tips help.

More done on the Hetzer:

Upper loaders ammunition racks in place, upper 2mm longer than lower. No problem as it can't be seen through the open hatch.

Brown plastic used to model the front interlocking armor, upper & lower hulls will be painted separately so did not want inaccurate seam on the front after it is together.

That scratchbuilt interior is coming along well suppressionfire. As you may recall I am building the Italeri Hetzer,still struggling along with the cannon camera,pics are a bit dark but you get the idea of where I'm at in the build. Still looking for some indy link tracks.The gunners sight and commanders telescope are extras from dragon kits. Thanks for looking..

bufflehead,

Dollar store swim goggle lens! Cost 1$ and will make periscopes for dozens of models!

Onto the Hetzer...

Jig for forming lead foil into shell holders...

In place, 75mm ammunition is removable. The upper hull has camouflage tie downs installed & CA glued through the hull.

the Doog's thread shows 8 round clip on the upper hull on the gun side (access for the loader) These will sit on a angle and the extra clearance will be carefully filed inside the brackets. Shells will slip in after paint from below BEFORE plate above the tracks is added.