The Ostfront (eastern front) GB 2010/11

Richard- I really appreciate your offer... thanks buddy!  Being little anal about history accuracy especially if I am planning to enter my Panzer IV at model contests I should keep it accurate if possible or judges like Manny would have caught my mistake.  Remember my partly painted figures to go with the Panzer... they were from 1942-1943 too so it is easier to change the camo scheme to make it work. 

I don't mind doing the second scheme or other scheme I saw online that I liked... either ways it will be FUN!   

Andy,

If you are really wanting to do that particular scheme i am sure not going to stand in your way. Who is to say this particular schem could have never been used on the russian front? As far as i know and from what little knowledge i have there were no standards. Paints were handed out to the crews and they sprayed it on as they saw fit did they not?

I will let you make the call yourself but as a host to our little group here i would say go for it! (EDIT: the germans never stopped fighting the russians even when defending berlin. The term Eastern front can be regarded in more ways than a strict "warfare in russia itself". So late ware equipment has been used fighting the russians)

Richard

Ernest- Happy to have you back here.  Moving isn't never easy... I have moved four times across the country in ten years because of my old job with a corporation which I no longer work for.  Glad you liked my work... more to come!

Eric & guys- Bad news!  I have to drop my top choice of camo scheme... I posted my WIP in Armor forum and Manny shared with us that it was late war scheme.  So I had to check with my reference book and sure enough he was correct.  What's worse... it wasn't used in the Eastern Front at all.  I should have done my homework carefully...

So now I am back at the drawing board, I think I will go for my second top camo scheme.  However I found few cool camo schemes at this great link a guy sent me... decisions, decisions, decisions! 

http://panzerivtheworkhorse.devhub.com/camo/ 

I will let keep y'all posted...

Hey everyone!  I'm back from the !!  Hehe, actually I completed the move and then had to finish a Hetzer for tigerman's Panzerjager GB.  I've pulled the RPM T-26T from the closet, repaired a couple of broken parts (compliments of moving) and got restarted on the painting/weathering.  I should be posting something in a day or two.

BTW, everyone seems to be doing a great job!  Andy, your Pz.IV is looking fantastic!  Luv the zimmerit and preshading!

From the drawing, I'd say you're correct about the camo behind the schurzen. I'm pretty sure they would include it on those areas, but admit that instructions rarely lead on about it. Perhaps at that late stage in the war, they skipped it.

Vetteman- Thanks for dropping by... never too late as it looks like its unanimous for the first camo scheme which I really liked too. 

Guys- Another update on my Panzer IV... airbrushed heavily thinned base coat of Dunky using Bill's formula 50/50 MM Dunky and MM Light Grey.  Sorry I had to use my ol' faithful Blackberry camera to take pictures... hope you can see the pre-shades. 

Circle templates are one of my best friends... it made wheels painting a pleasant experience.  All rear part of wheels were painted using Dunky I figured they didn't paint camo on the rear. 

I am looking forward to paint the camo scheme tomorrow night if I am not too tired.

If you can look at the drawing again, it looks like they did not apply alot of camo on the hull and turret behind the skirts, don't you agree? 

I'd appreciate to hear your opinion... again, thanks for looking!

Kermit wow but you are a factory my friend and do quality work too boot sweet lookin so far.

Deafpanzer yup the first one has my vote, a bit late as it may be. I am liking your build a lot so far

Eric, Bish, Richard and Trey- MANY THANKS for taking your time... I am glad you agree with the first scheme. 

Update on my panzer... did pre-shading job and painted the rubber on the wheels.  I hope to airbrush heavily thinned base coat of Dunky tonight. 

Hope to post another update tonight... thanks for looking!

Andy, go with that first scheme. It's refreshingly different. 

No, Richard, i don't think Dragon ever did one, unless i missed it.. I originally built the Italeri kit, but afraid that was damaged beyond repair. So recently i got the new hasegawa one, and ye, it is a fair size.

Coming together nicely. I normally find i damge those little bit undneath and end up haveing to replace them with a thin bit of wire.

Doen't dragon make a zwilling as well? Must be a huge model, even in 1/72 scale...

Well,... My own revell one is starting to look more and more german Decided to leave off the glass nose untill im done with all sanding in order not to fog up the inside... 

Only have to sand inbetween the knob thinghies on the underside fuselage... Still trying to figure out how to do it without damaging stuff. Probably end up folding sandpaper into sticks and take my time.

Richard

Richard, nice tip about holding the canopy to a lamp, never thought of that one before. And theres me been straining to see where to cut And ye, a new blade is a deffo. And though i do like the Eduard masks, if i can find a way to avoid spending 3 or 4 pound on masks for each kit, all the better.

If the side skirts are PE, that shouldn't be to hard to replicate damage, but if they are plastic, different issue. But i will third that on the scheme deaf, go with the first one. I have seen photos of that scheme on a StuG but don't recall seeing it modelled.

Trey, which Zwilling kit was that, i am assuming the Italeri one seeing as you said it was a while ago.

Richard the canopy mask is looking great. Probably my least favorite task next to landing gear. I built the Zwilling a long time ago and remember how much fun it was to mask 2 sets of canopy panes(pains)!

Deafpanzer I like the first scheme as well,looking forward to seeing that painted.

Deafpanzer,

I for one haven't seen the first scheme before anywhere. Looks great though Here is where we are different i guess... Schemes like that scare me though i am willing to give it another go now that i recently upgraded my airbrush The only thing bothering me is those side skirts... Some are missing/ ripped off so one would assume the other ones that are still there would show some deformations and damage... Just a thought.

It is really not that hard to mask canopies as long as you use a fresh knife and a steady hand along with some degree of patience. Also holding it to a lamp helps finding the lines/ edges.

Great figures btw. They are very finely detailed! Like em alot.

Richard

Richard- I am not really into wingy things but I do enjoy following plane WIPs especially this.  This canopy really scares me... I'd rather to be doing 200 indy tracks! LOL

Guys- I have been away for nearly two weeks... I am feeling so refreshed so I can not wait to return to my work bench and work on my Panzer IV.  Because I like to include few figures with all of my armors, I worked on the figures for a bit before I went away... applied base coat of paints of German Grey and black, etc.

I am still undecided on the camo scheme... leaning between those two I found in my reference book. 

I think I am going with the first scheme because I like the look of painted wheels and I don't think anybody has done this camo scheme before here in FSM? 

An afternoon of masking delight....movie on the laptop.... Heaven!

Richard

Only half the price. Well gives me a taister of what i have to look forward to with my Hase 111 kits.

Bish,

You caught me red handed. This bomber is actually a hasegawa rebox from what i have read.

Richard

That does look rather nice inside. Is this kit their own mold or is it from someone else. Deffinatly looks better than the italeri kit.

And here we are back a day or so later with some office progress. It has decent detail OOB albeit slightly modest but since most of it is the same color, assembly went fast. Should look fine through the glass once finished:

First i sprayed the cockpit and fuselage components in RLM 02. After everything was assembled wich didn't take long i added an overall black watercolor wash and drybrushing with white enamel. It darkened the basecoat somewhat so it can pass for a lighter RLM66 as well methinks. Reasearching this planes colors i found some controversy regarding the proper RLM shade for the office so i tried to go inbetween

After that was all done and joined i could already close up the fuselage early in the build. The IP will be glued to the glass nose section which is up next, together with assembling the wings

Stay tuned

Richard

Hey guys,

Since i just completed my shiny B17 for the NMF GB i have some room on the bench cleared up for this baby i was planning for a while now:

This Revell box is actually a Hasegawa in disguise. The following sprueshot will show you some of the nice detail this model has on the in- and outside:

No less than 4 different versions can be built with the big decal sheet provided:

At the moment i am leaning toward attempting a winterised pattern of white squiggles over a standard splinter camo as shown on the right but i haven't really made up my mind a 100% on that...:

Hope to start cutting some sprue very soon

Richard

Glad to hear that. I think that what i am going to have to do as i can't seeing me starting on the 251 before Sept.

Bish,

I guess since there is such an interest i think it would be wise to do just that. New thread, same subject, the very next day. Ofcourse you can also start early and carry over to the new GB. I am not known for being fussy and strict

Richard

Great work Deaf, looking very nice.

Richard, will the Ostfront II carry staright on from this one or will tehre be a gap between them.

Deaf,

Your patience is to be commended![;] Top notch work sir!

And from what i hear around here there is most likely going to be a Ostfront 2 so y'all can plan your builds accordingly Theres still so much i want to build with this subject in mind.....too many options, so little time...

Richard

Guys, update on my Panzer IV... yes, it is finally primed! 

Stayed up til 3am having all figures and Panzer primed...   At least I am a bachelor until tomorrow.

The 500 seems to shrink a bit on gaps so it requires quite a few applications but it dries fast.  I've found that dabbing rather than brushing tends to keep it right on the gap rather than the surrounding areas.  usually takes about 3-5 dabbings to really fill it but eventually it does and sands down nicely.  on big gaps i lay in stretched sprue with Tenax and then Mr S 500 to smooth it over completely.

cheers

other Andy (Lundergaard)

Doogs- Good question about Mr Surfacer 500 and panel lines.  Depending on how deep or big the gaps are.  Earlier I tried on my figures to hide the gaps between the arms and the body but it didn't work out so I went back to ol' faithful CA to fill the gaps. 

But I did use Mr Surfacer 500 to hide the seam on the air filter last night and I thought it worked out after a small sanding job.  I will take a picture and post over the weekend so you can see for yourself.  It may need second coat after it is primed.  Stay posted...

The vendors were out of Mr Surfacer 1200 so I ordered four bottles of Mr Surfacer 1000 instead.  I think they are close enough and I will just add little more thinner this time. 

deafpanzer

I am a big fan of Mr Surfacer... it has been difficult getting those lately so I managed to order four bottles.  I really like the Mr Surfacer 1200 very much and I use it as primer.  Mr Surfacer 500 is very thick and I use it to fill in tiny gaps or make surface rough just like you saw on the muffler. 

Hey Andy - despite my stash, I've actually never used Mr. Surfacer 500 (used 1200 plenty of times). Do you think it'd be thick enough to fill the panel lines on my P-51's wings, or am I going to have to break down and use putty?

Bish, you read my mind... scary enough!!!  I glued one of spare wheel holder on the Zimm in the rear... I wonder if it will hold.  I managed to find a gap at both ends so it will stay attached.  Keep your fingers crossed...

Now for the steel cable I am planning to paint it separately first then attach it on the hull in the rear at the end.  I will probably use CA and hope it will work too. 

I am a big fan of Mr Surfacer... it has been difficult getting those lately so I managed to order four bottles.  I really like the Mr Surfacer 1200 very much and I use it as primer.  Mr Surfacer 500 is very thick and I use it to fill in tiny gaps or make surface rough just like you saw on the muffler. 

Planning to apply Mr Surfacer 1200 on my Panzer IV and several figures tonight... can't wait!