The Official F-4 Phantom II Group Build 2011

well ive completed my RF4E 5 straight days of working on this model, ill probably super detail it at a later point but i could not be happier with the way it turned out.

this was the only mishap i had with the decals, the paint was not dry like i had thought and it had smeard the tail's emblem a little bit, but its almost barely noticeable, but i will probably reprint the decal and fix it at a later time.

it makes a nice addition to the sea of gray, plus the Blue CT155 Hawk and the Charcoal Lizard F15E, which you cant really see in this photo.

i definitely think i am going to do another model for this build as soon as i can find an 'S' type to do ISAF's 'Mobius' 118 TFSquadron, which is not a real Squadron but the F4 looks awesome.

Mobius -- that's a fiersome job on the decals! Congratulations on being first to finish, twelve days into this GB! You have an impressive lineup of models and this one is definitely colourful!

I'll update page 1 directly (and get some badges up asap!)

Cheerts, Mike/TB379

thank you, thats not even half of them, i have another 23 hanging from the ceiling im definitely going to have to go out and find another Phantom to build.

Well, I've been chasing my tail trying to locate MM Acryl paints in Aus but so far no luck, nor as far off as Hong Kong. Will try Singapore but I'm not overly hopeful. I have a few local outlets left to call but it's not looking too hot right now. Sprue Bothers will ship them to Aus, so that's a possibility. Same story on the Micrscale clear coats, they're scarce Down Under right now, so it looks like I'll be doing an order to MS...

Without a firm match on FS 36231 I might just wing it, mix a darkish gray and get that F-4F cockpit done so I can build the beast. The exterior colours look like they're more or less catered with minimal mixing from Tamiya acrylics, and that means I can press on with this bird, then pick up the RF-4E Bicentennial when I can get the gull grey and insignia blue through from the States.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

FS 36231 is just MM Dark Gull Grey.  I just bought a jar on eBay  Use this link.  The guy has it for 1.89 US and shipping is reasonable, at least in the US.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MODEL-MASTER-1740-DARK-GULL-GRAY-1-2-OZ-/320591231276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa4b9f92c

Good luck

Rich

Thunderbolt379

Well, I've been chasing my tail trying to locate MM Acryl paints in Aus but so far no luck, nor as far off as Hong Kong. Will try Singapore but I'm not overly hopeful. I have a few local outlets left to call but it's not looking too hot right now. Sprue Bothers will ship them to Aus, so that's a possibility. Same story on the Micrscale clear coats, they're scarce Down Under right now, so it looks like I'll be doing an order to MS...

Without a firm match on FS 36231 I might just wing it, mix a darkish gray and get that F-4F cockpit done so I can build the beast. The exterior colours look like they're more or less catered with minimal mixing from Tamiya acrylics, and that means I can press on with this bird, then pick up the RF-4E Bicentennial when I can get the gull grey and insignia blue through from the States.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Very unique looking Phantom, Mobius118.  It looks like an ECM pod hanging off of the right inboard, but what in on the left side?  The pictures are a little dark to see clearly.

I know this picture is not good but it's the only one I have. Can anyone ID the bottom item on the TER?

Dean

berny13

Very unique looking Phantom, Mobius118.  It looks like an ECM pod hanging off of the right inboard, but what in on the left side?  The pictures are a little dark to see clearly.

actually the Aircraft is from the 52nd Air Recon Squadron and has a Panoramic Camera placed on the right pylon for low level flight and the left pylon has an Infrared scanner for tracking enemy troop movements, also id just thought i point out the side scanning radar on the right hand side of the fuselage to give the aircraft 360 degrees on radar coverage and in the nose there are several searchlights/camera's. as far as i am aware there are no armaments that can be placed on this phantom, unless a center line gun was to replace the drop tank.

edit: oh i forgot to mention that i have read that the aircraft does have counter measures, like an ECM pod, however they are internal. however i have not be able to find official documentation or pictures on this subject.

Here are the decals I will use part of.  Others I will have to piece together to get the ser number.  Also the panel numbers (Dry transfer) I will be using to mark all the panels on the jet.

Thunderbolt379

Well, I've been chasing my tail trying to locate MM Acryl paints in Aus but so far no luck, nor as far off as Hong Kong. Will try Singapore but I'm not overly hopeful. I have a few local outlets left to call but it's not looking too hot right now. Sprue Bothers will ship them to Aus, so that's a possibility. Same story on the Micrscale clear coats, they're scarce Down Under right now, so it looks like I'll be doing an order to MS...

Without a firm match on FS 36231 I might just wing it, mix a darkish gray and get that F-4F cockpit done so I can build the beast. The exterior colours look like they're more or less catered with minimal mixing from Tamiya acrylics, and that means I can press on with this bird, then pick up the RF-4E Bicentennial when I can get the gull grey and insignia blue through from the States.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

One match for FS36231 that I use in a pinch (pinch being too lazy to drive 2 miles to the LHS) is Tamiya XF-54 Dark Sea Grey.  I put them both on a scrap piece of white styrene and they are VERY close to each other.  Also, if you have access to Vallejo Model Color, use 70.991, which is also pretty close to 36231.  

Mobius118

berny13:

Very unique looking Phantom, Mobius118.  It looks like an ECM pod hanging off of the right inboard, but what in on the left side?  The pictures are a little dark to see clearly.

 

actually the Aircraft is from the 52nd Air Recon Squadron and has a Panoramic Camera placed on the right pylon for low level flight and the left pylon has an Infrared scanner for tracking enemy troop movements, also id just thought i point out the side scanning radar on the right hand side of the fuselage to give the aircraft 360 degrees on radar coverage and in the nose there are several searchlights/camera's. as far as i am aware there are no armaments that can be placed on this phantom, unless a center line gun was to replace the drop tank.

edit: oh i forgot to mention that i have read that the aircraft does have counter measures, like an ECM pod, however they are internal. however i have not be able to find official documentation or pictures on this subject.

The right inboard has the AN/ALQ-119 ECM pod.  What is on the left, I have no idea.  The RF-4B, RF-4C, RF-4E, and RF-4EJ did not have internal jamming systems, only RHAW and RWR.  All jamming pods had to be carried on the inboard pylons.

The only weapons that could be carried by the RF was a nuke on the centerline station only.  That was only on USAF operated RF-4C's.  One AFR unit did modify their RF's to carry the AIM-9 Sidewinder.

I don't know where you got your information of a searchlight being in the nose, but that is not correct.  The aircraft did use photo flash carts located inside doors located on both sides of the fuselage above the engine exhaust.  

The side looking radar (SLR) was housed on both sides of the fuselage, where other F-4's would have had the forward missile wells.  The nose radar was weather tracking and ground mapping radar and wasn't capable of tracking air to air targets.

Well.  More pieces fell into place today.  Four of the Humbrol paints I ordered arrived so now I am only waiting on two more Humbrol cans that haven't arrived yet.  I also was surprised and delighted when my new Anthem arrived today.  All I am still waiting for the new Badger air hose.  The Almark decals arrived as well, and i was happy to see that they do have markings for 56 sqn.  So I will not have to cut and patch correct numbers for 41 sqn. in the kit decals.  I may start some basic work on the cockpit tomorrow.  I need to pick a few more things up, like debonder, before I want to get into any heavy work on it.  Here's some images

The Kit and Decals

Some images of the Decals.  First the kit decals.

Now the Almark set with instruction and placement sheet.

And lastly my new baby!

I will start sending up WIP images once I get started.  This looks like it is going to be a fun build.

Rich

Sparrowhyperion

Well.  More pieces fell into place today.  Four of the Humbrol paints I ordered arrived so now I am only waiting on two more Humbrol cans that haven't arrived yet.  I also was surprised and delighted when my new Anthem arrived today.  All I am still waiting for the new Badger air hose.  The Almark decals arrived as well, and i was happy to see that they do have markings for 56 sqn.  So I will not have to cut and patch correct numbers for 41 sqn. in the kit decals.  I may start some basic work on the cockpit tomorrow.  I need to pick a few more things up, like debonder, before I want to get into any heavy work on it.   

I will start sending up WIP images once I get started.  This looks like it is going to be a fun build.

Rich

I did manage to get your AIM-9D Sidewinders in the mail yesterday.  By the time you get them, you should be ready to paint them and start on the final assembly of your Phantom.  

Thanks!  It's going to be a while.  Because I am going to use an airbrush for the first time on a serious build, I am going to have a bit of a learning curve on this one.  I'll use someof my scrap kits to test and practice with it before I paint anything.  I am hoping that the hose and the rest of the paint will be here in the next few days.  I have to wait on the paint because some of the paint that isn't here yet is for the cockpit area.  I will also be doing the Secret Santa build at the same time.  I'm going to eb real busy. lol.

Rich

berny13

 

Sparrowhyperion:

 

Well.  More pieces fell into place today.  Four of the Humbrol paints I ordered arrived so now I am only waiting on two more Humbrol cans that haven't arrived yet.  I also was surprised and delighted when my new Anthem arrived today.  All I am still waiting for the new Badger air hose.  The Almark decals arrived as well, and i was happy to see that they do have markings for 56 sqn.  So I will not have to cut and patch correct numbers for 41 sqn. in the kit decals.  I may start some basic work on the cockpit tomorrow.  I need to pick a few more things up, like debonder, before I want to get into any heavy work on it.   

I will start sending up WIP images once I get started.  This looks like it is going to be a fun build.

Rich

 

 

I did manage to get your AIM-9D Sidewinders in the mail yesterday.  By the time you get them, you should be ready to paint them and start on the final assembly of your Phantom.  

Smitty -- thanks for the tip, I have XF-54 in stock and will use it to get that cockpit underway today. I'll not invest a great deal of effort as the canopy will beclosed, and I mainly want to get to the airframe construction this weekend.

Sparrow -- that's an impresive project you've lined up and the Allmark decals look excellent. If this is your first airbrushing job you do indeed have a learning curve and I hope you'll accept some tips! I've been airbrushing for 31 years and it took me many of them to stop feeling intimidated by the darn thing. Now airbrushing is a delight and one of the fun parts of any build. My first airbrush was a Badger 200-3, an internal mix single-action design, same as yours by the looks of things. Since 1990 I've been using a Paasche VL, internal mix double-action, and it's performing quite nicely for my needs to this day.

You're working in enamels and I can say that in my climate and for the requirements of the Paasche, I would thin the paint by 50%, i.e., two parts paint to one part thinner. Slight variation around that ratio is fine. I used to thin at 1:1 as I had heard many folks did this, but it must be the peculiarities of individual systems as that would be way too thin for mine now. The watchword here is experimentation. Use sheets of card or paper and do exercises spraying spots and stripes and patterns, and experiment with flow rates and appertures. See what happens when you vary the angle of the AB to the surface. Always begin to spray a fraction of a second before the AB lines up on target and spray until you pass off the subject -- that evens out the application. Much of it becomes instinctive with practice.

The first model I ever airbrushed was Revell's 1:48 F-4E -- I had in fact already painted it with brushes but went over it again to get a soft edge. The next model was Revell's 1:48 F/A-18A and I encountered paint like sandpaper for the first time -- pressure too high, not enough thinner, the paint was drying in the air before it hit the surface. A good rule of thumb is never spray at higher pressure than absolutely necessary, it can rob you of control, and control is really what an AB is all about.

Here's hoping you can tame that animal, and have a very positive first air painting experience. If you can make peace with that fine instrument, it'll serve you well and you'll have a long and satisfying partnership.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

it was just the info i was given from the fact sheet about this particular aircraft, take your grievances up with Revell, not me haha

also the counter measures was info i got off a website when i was researching 35-76i did say it wasnt official.

but the the right pylon is holding a camera because it is the same style ive seen with our CF188's and the left is in fact a infrared scanner. again unless Revell did no research into the model they made. i could be possible because i just realized that i actually didnt finish painting it that may look different. but my focus was on the Aircraft not the armaments.

also TB im adding a new aircraft to this building, i managed to find the right kit for the ISAF aircraft i posted the side view of. its a 1/72 Revell F4K (ISAF 118 TFS 'Mobius', from the Game Ace Combat 4 in case anyones interested.)

I really really appreciate the advice.  I actually have the Badger 155 Anthem which is siphon fed dual action.  I did a lot of research and this one seemed to be the best all around one I could get.  It's really flexible without buying extra needles which is a big plus to me.  I have quite a few disaster kits from when I first started trying to get back into modeling after my aneurysm..  They came out horribly.  Often times I almost gave up, but I am finally getting confident enough to try this build.  those early horrors are going to come in handy after all I guess.  I'm kind of a pack rat.  i just can't throw a model out no matter how bad it is..  I was going to ask about thinning recommendations but you saved me the trouble.  For the primary paint job I plan on a simple grey primer, then the two tone RAF camo pattern for 56 sqn.  I will be using Humbrol paints since I couldn't find the colors required in any other brand.  I have never used Humbrol before, so I am going to take this one step at a time.  The practice kits won't be using the Humbrol.  It takes too long to get it here. lol.  I'll keep the group posted on progress and thanks for the info again.

Rich

Thunderbolt379

Sparrow -- that's an impresive project you've lined up and the Allmark decals look excellent. If this is your first airbrushing job you do indeed have a learning curve and I hope you'll accept some tips! I've been airbrushing for 31 years and it took me many of them to stop feeling intimidated by the darn thing. Now airbrushing is a delight and one of the fun parts of any build. My first airbrush was a Badger 200-3, an internal mix single-action design, same as yours by the looks of things. Since 1990 I've been using a Paasche VL, internal mix double-action, and it's performing quite nicely for my needs to this day.

You're working in enamels and I can say that in my climate and for the requirements of the Paasche, I would thin the paint by 50%, i.e., two parts paint to one part thinner. Slight variation around that ratio is fine. I used to thin at 1:1 as I had heard many folks did this, but it must be the peculiarities of individual systems as that would be way too thin for mine now. The watchword here is experimentation. Use sheets of card or paper and do exercises spraying spots and stripes and patterns, and experiment with flow rates and appertures. See what happens when you vary the angle of the AB to the surface. Always begin to spray a fraction of a second before the AB lines up on target and spray until you pass off the subject -- that evens out the application. Much of it becomes instinctive with practice.

The first model I ever airbrushed was Revell's 1:48 F-4E -- I had in fact already painted it with brushes but went over it again to get a soft edge. The next model was Revell's 1:48 F/A-18A and I encountered paint like sandpaper for the first time -- pressure too high, not enough thinner, the paint was drying in the air before it hit the surface. A good rule of thumb is never spray at higher pressure than absolutely necessary, it can rob you of control, and control is really what an AB is all about.

Here's hoping you can tame that animal, and have a very positive first air painting experience. If you can make peace with that fine instrument, it'll serve you well and you'll have a long and satisfying partnership.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Rich -- you're most welcome. If it's a double-action, that takes a bit more learning but again becomes second nature, as the fore and aft motion of the trigger controls paint volume by moving the needle assembly back and forth, while the up-down action controls air volume (full bore on both for cleaning!)

Primer is not strictly necessary but it will show up where your seams need more work, and that's always valuable. On scratchbuild projects I've used two or three coats of Humbrol #1, an excellent gray primer. I read many years ago that Humbrol grind their pigments much more finely now than they used to, which improves spray painting. If the paints are properly thinned and sprayed gently (not blasted on), they should lay down like velvet. I use acrylics preferentially now because of the toxic nature of solvent based paints, but remember enviously the application characteristics of enamels. One day I'll have a spray booth, then I can use them again without being at the mercy of the weather or gassing myself and the family...

Masking: Let the paint dry 24 hours for safety, there's no rush on a project like this. The RAF birds were hard-edged, so do you have a plan in mind for masking the wavy camo demarcations? Also, priority of application -- the rule of thumb is lightest to darkest, but enamels are pretty dense and you can actually spray-apply them in any order, it just takes more of a light colour to cover a dark than the other way round.

Preshading -- it's taken me all these years to try it and now I'm hooked. Load up some black, acrylic will do, it makes no difference, and run over the panel lines with a tight-ish line (precision not necessary). The show-through is subtle but appeals to the eye!

Are you planning to clear-coat for decal application and final finish? There'll be much more experienced hands at clears than me in this build, but I can strongly vouch for the Microscale products -- check out my product review of their satin finish on my blog (address below, latest post).

Cheers, Mike/TB379

I was going to use the primer in combination with a preshading to bring out some of the subtle panel lines before the main coats.  I was lucky enough to find a pic of the exact plane I will be modeling, so the Camo pattern will be accurate, at least on the side facing the camera. 

I've masked before, a  lot. lol  Just for spray rattle cans though, not airbrushing.  I like the amount of control an airbrush gives you.  You don't have to hermetically seal the thing to keep the paint where you want it.

I usually do my base coatss in enamel and use acrylics for washes and dry brushing.  The advantage being that if it messes up, I can remove it without taking off the base paint colors.  I usually do somewhat subtle weathering.  Which is what I am planning for this bird.  Thepanel lines are recessed and as usual, much thicker than tey should be, so I cal use putty and rescribe them (which wouldn't work out too well with my messed up coordination,) Or I can do a very subtle weathering and wash to bring out just a hint of the panel lines.  So I will try that.  Again, with Acrylics, I have redos if necessary.

I always use Microscale Micro Sol and Micro Set..  Then I plan on an extra layer of decal film to blend it in a bit better.  What I can't decide is flat or gloss finish...  I will put down a coat of future anyways, but I haven't decided if I want to overcoat it with dullcote.  I can't tell from the images I have found if they are using gloss or matte on their planes.  Some look glossy and some don't.   I think I actually have some of that Microscale Satinf coat.  That might make a good compromise between the two.

I am going to have to wait quite some time for a paint booth unless i decide to build one from scratch.   I have been building, repairing, upgrading and generally messing with PCs since 1990 so I have a ton of old PC parts hanging around, including a few dozen PC high speed cooling fans.  A chain of 120mm fans in a ducted box run off of an old ATA power supply, some filters from lowes, and a few panels of sealed wood and there ya go.. lol.  I blew my next 4 months worth of Model budget on this one build.  I'm lucky the wife was in a good mood when I asked her if she would mind me getting the airbrush.  She found out about all the paint etc on her own when she did her biweekly audit of our paypal account. LMAO  I thought I was going to have to book it for Canada...  All I got was a few hours of the silent treatment..  Right now I am going to have to use our front closed in porch with one of those electric radiators; the oil filled ones, to keep the place warm.  The compressor is too loud for indoor use and I need to get some ear guards so I don't trash my hearing.

Thanks for the info again.

Rich

p.s. don't mind typos.  Carpel Tunnel sucks.

Thunderbolt379

Rich -- you're most welcome. If it's a double-action, that takes a bit more learning but again becomes second nature, as the fore and aft motion of the trigger controls paint volume by moving the needle assembly back and forth, while the up-down action controls air volume (full bore on both for cleaning!)

Primer is not strictly necessary but it will show up where your seams need more work, and that's always valuable. On scratchbuild projects I've used two or three coats of Humbrol #1, an excellent gray primer. I read many years ago that Humbrol grind their pigments much more finely now than they used to, which improves spray painting. If the paints are properly thinned and sprayed gently (not blasted on), they should lay down like velvet. I use acrylics preferentially now because of the toxic nature of solvent based paints, but remember enviously the application characteristics of enamels. One day I'll have a spray booth, then I can use them again without being at the mercy of the weather or gassing myself and the family...

Masking: Let the paint dry 24 hours for safety, there's no rush on a project like this. The RAF birds were hard-edged, so do you have a plan in mind for masking the wavy camo demarcations? Also, priority of application -- the rule of thumb is lightest to darkest, but enamels are pretty dense and you can actually spray-apply them in any order, it just takes more of a light colour to cover a dark than the other way round.

Preshading -- it's taken me all these years to try it and now I'm hooked. Load up some black, acrylic will do, it makes no difference, and run over the panel lines with a tight-ish line (precision not necessary). The show-through is subtle but appeals to the eye!

Are you planning to clear-coat for decal application and final finish? There'll be much more experienced hands at clears than me in this build, but I can strongly vouch for the Microscale products -- check out my product review of their satin finish on my blog (address below, latest post).

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Mobius-Great job! How much of the tiger stripes were decal?

Glenn

I always prime before painting even if I do a quickie hand paint job. The best primer I have found, and I really encourage you to try it, is Duplicolor's Automotive sandable primer. I use the gray, Duplicolor #DAP 1692  Gray Hot Rod. Yes it's a spray can, but you would never know it the first time you use it.

The reason I recommend this very highly is I have not found ANYTHING the cant be sprayed or brushed over it. It also dries SO THIN that 4 or 5 coats doesn't hide detail, NOR does it react with styrene!! You can get it at any auto parts store that handles the Duplicolor line. Here are a few examples on my Phantom:

Notice NO loss of detail? This is after my customary 4th and final coat after correcting addditional filling/sanding.

Here's what to look for:

Try it.... You'll like it

I'll definitely try it if I can find it.  There's a few autoparts store and I think a Walmart that carries that brand.  Thanks for the tip.

Rich

kustommodeler1

I always prime before painting even if I do a quickie hand paint job. The best primer I have found, and I really encourage you to try it, is Duplicolor's Automotive sandable primer. I use the gray, Duplicolor #DAP 1692  Gray Hot Rod. Yes it's a spray can, but you would never know it the first time you use it.

Mobius118

but the the right pylon is holding a camera because it is the same style ive seen with our CF188's and the left is in fact a infrared scanner. again unless Revell did no research into the model they made. i could be possible because i just realized that i actually didnt finish painting it that may look different. but my focus was on the Aircraft not the armaments.

I am not trying to argue with you.  From the angle it looks like an ECM pod on the right pylon.  I stated I didn"t know what was on the left.  Below is a AN/ALQ-119 ECM pod.  Post a better picture so I can get a better look at what is hanging on the right side of your jet.

mississippivol

Mobius-Great job! How much of the tiger stripes were decal?

Glenn

well they came with the decals, but i also repaint them because the yellow was a little too faded, so i guess half and half i used them as stencils

f-4phantom

I know this picture is not good but it's the only one I have. Can anyone ID the bottom item on the TER?

Dean

As a WAG I would say it is a napalm canister without the nose cap. 

they do look very similar i can see where you think its the ECM pod, and i will post a pic to show you, but the detail on the head end of the on the armaments is different it has the rotating camera head on it and it is just a single tube rather then several different pieces.

The Hasegawa F-4F landed on my front porch today, and opened it to take a look. I found the same construction as my other versions, the "S", "E" and my current project, the "G", with the use of different nose, stabilators (non-slotted), upper section of the vertical tail, and other smaller parts. It provides decals for two different aircraft of the JG74, "Mölders". The first is 34+53 in an allover two tone gray (Yawn!) or 34+42 in the gray and green 'Norm 72' splinter pattern (Better!) I was a bit disappointed in that the kit is labeled as a "Limited Release" and thought perhaps they would have included something extra, such as a fret of brass parts or even weapons!  No such luck on any of that though, just the kit. The kit originally sold for around 40 bucks (I paid 20), so I was hoping.

The colors the Hasegawa kit are calling for are as follows in Mr. Color numbers:

#304 Olive Drab FS34087, and #331 Dark Seagray BS381C/638 above and #8 Silver below.

Not sure if I will eventually include it in this group build or not as I seem to have little time to sit down with the "G" and much of that time seems to be fixing broken bits, replacing missing bits and fixing mistakes on this long abandoned and abused kit! If I get somewhere with that kit, I may start the "F" as I really am attracted to that Luftwaffe scheme!

A side note here: just learned that the "F" was not equipped to use the Sparrow missiles, something I had always assumed was standard Phantom fare!

Mobius118

they do look very similar i can see where you think its the ECM pod, and i will post a pic to show you, but the detail on the head end of the on the armaments is different it has the rotating camera head on it and it is just a single tube rather then several different pieces.

I would like to see a picture of that camera as I have never seen one.  Also could you post a picture of the pod that is loaded on the left side.  That is something that must have entered the inventory after I retired from the Air Force.  Thanks for the clarification.

So can you join in on this group build at any time? I just joined the forum and this is the perfect group build to get involved in as I have been looking for motivation to finally get started on my 1/32 scale Revell Phantom that I have had for some time. I will be using resin seats from Cam and aftermarket decals, although I don't have them in front of me at the time so I can't remember the markings off hand. I am not an expert on anything plane related so if I get started on this and do something that is inaccuarte please feel free to chime in and let me know.  Thanks.

1320wayne

So can you join in on this group build at any time? I just joined the forum and this is the perfect group build to get involved in as I have been looking for motivation to finally get started on my 1/32 scale Revell Phantom that I have had for some time. I will be using resin seats from Cam and aftermarket decals, although I don't have them in front of me at the time so I can't remember the markings off hand. I am not an expert on anything plane related so if I get started on this and do something that is inaccuarte please feel free to chime in and let me know.  Thanks.

Welcome to the FSM forum.  Are you building the F-4E or the RF-4C?  Which ever one you build, get a set of AM wheels as the kit wheels are all wrong.  Also get a set of AM landing gear struts as the kit supplied ones are not strong enough to support the completed model.  The cockpits are very basic with no side wall detail but the AM cockpits for the Revell kit are long out of production.  The AM cockpit for the Tamiya kit can be adapted to use the sidewalls and with a little work the cockpit can be built up very nice.