The Official F-4 Phantom II Group Build 2011

Lol.  If the Atchinson Automatic Shotgun is called a room broom.  I guess the appropriate name for the F4 with 15 miniguns would be the Mall Mop...

Well, My Aires Mk7 Martin Baker ejection seats came today.  I think I will probably use the verlinden ones on my Testors Wild Weasel.  The Aires are for the RAF Bird.

haha,,,,,,,,yeah, I had Thud G's back in the day,,,,,,,,NMF early 105's too,,,,,,,but, since I "cut down" the collection,,,,,,,I gave almost all of my now off-topic built ups to my nephews, and sold off the non-Naval unbilt kits,,,,,except for the F-4's and a few trainers

it had gotten out of hand for display space and stash storage space,,,,,,,,I actually had more USAF and WW II aircraft done than Scooters

worked like a charm (lol),,,,,,,I am down to only 400+ kits now, and almost everything gets my preferred Lt Gull Gray,,,,,,,,,well, except for that,,,,,,and that,,,,,,,and those,,,,,and the ASAT Eagle,,,,,and that,,,,,,and gotta have a couple of Sabres,,,,,,not a Spit or Zero left in the whole house, now though,,,,,,,,they've been replaced by Phantom FG 1 and FGR 2,,,,,and F-4EJ Kai,,,,,,and stuff

yeah, really worked great

Rex (shaking my head at myself)

Eatthis -- superb work, that big Showtime 100 is a real eye-catcher! Congrats on a great piece of work -- page 1 is updated and you have our third completion.

SH -- "Room broom" is a term that goes back way before the Atchison came along (IIRC), I first heard it attached to the original Ingram MAC-10 of about 1968, designed for aggressively resolving student sit-ins...

Cheers, Mike/TB379

TarnShip

haha,,,,,,,,yeah, I had Thud G's back in the day,,,,,,,,NMF early 105's too,,,,,,,but, since I "cut down" the collection,,,,,,,I gave almost all of my now off-topic built ups to my nephews, and sold off the non-Naval unbilt kits,,,,,except for the F-4's and a few trainers

it had gotten out of hand for display space and stash storage space,,,,,,,,I actually had more USAF and WW II aircraft done than Scooters

worked like a charm (lol),,,,,,,I am down to only 400+ kits now, and almost everything gets my preferred Lt Gull Gray,,,,,,,,,well, except for that,,,,,,and that,,,,,,,and those,,,,,and the ASAT Eagle,,,,,and that,,,,,,and gotta have a couple of Sabres,,,,,,not a Spit or Zero left in the whole house, now though,,,,,,,,they've been replaced by Phantom FG 1 and FGR 2,,,,,and F-4EJ Kai,,,,,,and stuff

yeah, really worked great

Rex (shaking my head at myself)

Rex....does this mean there's hope for me?

After my 115th kit, I made a solemn pledge to shed one kit for every new one I "acquired." That would keep things in a kind of equilibrium.

Well, ahem, I think it's up around 250 now, and I kicked myself for getting rid of a small pile of 70's and 80's kits.

I just managed to pull in a couple of F-4F's and AM parts, so far from helping me control my habit, this Group Build is "enabling" my "styroholism."

My big thrill of the week: I found a 4' by 8' sheet of 0.125" styrene, same grade as Evergreen, for $50. I had it cut into 2 by 4's. I needed it like Jones because I am going to build.....a future project as yet undetermined!

But since I was gouged almost $18 for a sheet about 8" by 18", I figured my arithmetic got the better of me!

Hey Tarbender, another litre of MEK! Nah you keep the olives pal!

Yeah I've got a pile of Brit stuff,  my Hurri build was interrupted by this F-4F...and yeah, that ASAT Eagle and a couple of Sabres on the horizon...

Thunderbolt379

Eatthis -- superb work, that big Showtime 100 is a real eye-catcher! Congrats on a great piece of work -- page 1 is updated and you have our third completion.

SH -- "Room broom" is a term that goes back way before the Atchison came along (IIRC), I first heard it attached to the original Ingram MAC-10 of about 1968, designed for aggressively resolving student sit-ins...

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Back in WWI there was this device, invented by Tommy, simply known as "The Broom."

Used successfully in WWII as well. Tommy sure made a lot of introductions!

I wonder what and F-4 would look like with 5 M61's.

Bockscar

Thunderbolt379:

Eatthis -- superb work, that big Showtime 100 is a real eye-catcher! Congrats on a great piece of work -- page 1 is updated and you have our third completion.

SH -- "Room broom" is a term that goes back way before the Atchison came along (IIRC), I first heard it attached to the original Ingram MAC-10 of about 1968, designed for aggressively resolving student sit-ins...

Cheers, Mike/TB379

 

Back in WWI there was this device, invented by Tommy, simply known as "The Broom."

Used successfully in WWII as well. Tommy sure made a lot of introductions!

I wonder what and F-4 would look like with 5 M61's.

Hey Dominic, would that make it a Mig "Disintegrator"? 

Ken

Gunsight?! I don't need no freakin' gunsight!

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

The Intake Interior color has been a bone of contention here for a bit.  According to our experts, the US planes all have a flat white interior, but on my RAF bird it looks more like a medium gray in the images I have seen online.

jimbot58

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

jimbot58

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

Hi Jim,

Just like Rich said, that was a good discussion on this very build.  It starts on page 12 of this build.  Enjoy!

Ken

Hi Everyone!

Well work continues on my cockpit.  I cut the resin base off of the tub:

And I cut the resin base off of the front instrument panel:

Rex, that saw you recomended worked great except for working on large pieces like the cockpit tub.  I had to purchase a large (1 3/16" x 5 1/2") saw blade to cut it off with.

I went to my third IPMS meeting last night.  I really enjoy going to them.  It is a small group and everyone is really great to talk with.  I found out last night what my next build is going to be after this one!  It turns out that one of the IPMS member's planes has a set of decals made for it.  His name is Don James and the plane is the F-84E "Hoosier Hotshot".  The decals are made by Strike Eagle and I just ordered a set.  Don said he has a bunch of photos of his plane that he will bring to the next monthly meeting.  I can't wait!  Way too cool!  It also turns out that I already have the Revell 1/48 F-84E in my stash.  I am going to bring it to our next meeting so Don can point out any changes that need to be made to make it authentic.  It is like knowing a super star personally!

Ken

ET: Great looking Rhino!

Ken: That cockpit is starting to really shape up

I got the 34102 shot on my SEA scheme today, hoping to mask and shoot the 34079 tomorrow...it's not too photoworthy with all the tape on her. I'll tell you one thing; using pictures to lay down the masking, the variety of ways this scheme was shot is tremendous. I couldn't find two aircraft that looked exactly the same. Makes me feel better 'bout how I'm masking mine.

Glenn

mississippivol

Gunsight?! I don't need no freakin' gunsight!

That set up would make so much shakee puddin' you prolly couldn't even see the freaking gunsight!

Hey  Eatthis , slow down pal!, yo'r killin' me out here! -Great work!!!

I forgot to mention....I got more lumber planked to the floor of my Flugel. I'll spare you all the anticipation of the pictures this time around, it's just way, way, too exciting for a Saturday night!!!

Hey I know this is way off topic, but it's for Rich, so please allow me to hijack for just a split second:

actually, ehr....ummm.....yeah, designed by the same engineers that designed the F-4! That's the ticket!

Mike, promise not to do that again in your GB thread!

Bockscar

I forgot to mention....I got more lumber planked to the floor of my Flugel. I'll spare you all the anticipation of the pictures this time around, it's just way, way, too exciting for a Saturday night!!!

Hey I know this is way off topic, but it's for Rich, so please allow me to hijack for just a split second:

actually, ehr....ummm.....yeah, designed by the same engineers that designed the F-4! That's the ticket!

Mike, promise not to do that again in your GB thread!

I wish I had one of those for the Wild Wings Build, in Air Force Thunderbird Markings with Blue LEDs in the dome and a lit up cabin. lol

That's okay, Bocks, I always fancied one of those!

Cheers, M/TB379

Son Of Medicine Man

 

jimbot58:

 

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

 

 

Hi Jim,

Just like Rich said, that was a good discussion on this very build.  It starts on page 12 of this build.  Enjoy!

Ken

Actually, my question was one of distance, not color! The white is the color I'm using and wondered where it begins! Where would it transition? At the lip? 6 inches in? Twelve? 13.4 feet? A yard? Infinity? I would think the exterior color would carry into the inside a little ways I'm sure! I went through page 12 and hue was discussed, not what I was seeking to find out!

Jimbot -- I think I remember Berny mentioning a wrap of the outside colour into the intake of about 6" IIRC... There's a museum restoration with a wrap of a foot or more but this is incorrect... (NB: Both of these pertain to US schemes.)

Cheers, M/TB379

jimbot58

Son Of Medicine Man:

 

jimbot58:

 

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

 

 

Hi Jim,

Just like Rich said, that was a good discussion on this very build.  It starts on page 12 of this build.  Enjoy!

Ken

 

Actually, my question was one of distance, not color! The white is the color I'm using and wondered where it begins! Where would it transition? At the lip? 6 inches in? Twelve? 13.4 feet? A yard? Infinity? I would think the exterior color would carry into the inside a little ways I'm sure! I went through page 12 and hue was discussed, not what I was seeking to find out!

Hi Jim,

That answer was on the next page, page 13.  Sorry about that.

Ken

berny13

Bockscar, did you get the AM radome yet?  Is it solid resin or hollow on the inside?  I am building my Revell F-4E with the radome open and the radar package extended so I would need a hollow radome for my project. 

I got the answer.  I ordered one Thursday and got it delivered Saturday.  It is solid resin.  I will use it on my RoG F-4F.

Haven't got much work done on my build for the last couple of weeks.  Been doing a lot of yard work while the weather will allow it. 

Ken, nice work on the cockpit tub.  Looks great.

Eatthis, your Showtime 100 came out great. 

Son Of Medicine Man

 

jimbot58:

 

 

Son Of Medicine Man:

 

jimbot58:

 

Eatthis: Great work! You accomplish in a few hours what takes me a month to do!

I have had little time to work on the kits this week as reality has intruded too much into my life and distracted me from my real work of building models. I did manage to work a bit on the intakes for both the "G" and pre-assembly painting of the intakes for the "F". I also cleaned up some areas inside that show all too well on the already assembled "G". The intakes end, unfortunately, at a blank wall and I don't want to add anything there other than painting it darker so to fool the eye as to what should be there. OOB is what I am doing here.

I do have an important question ask as to the painting. I assume the exterior colors continue a ways into the intakes, but I have been unable to locate decent photos to show me maybe how far. If someone has info, it would help me finish this and my builds could kick into gear!

Jim

 

 

Hi Jim,

Just like Rich said, that was a good discussion on this very build.  It starts on page 12 of this build.  Enjoy!

Ken

 

 

Actually, my question was one of distance, not color! The white is the color I'm using and wondered where it begins! Where would it transition? At the lip? 6 inches in? Twelve? 13.4 feet? A yard? Infinity? I would think the exterior color would carry into the inside a little ways I'm sure! I went through page 12 and hue was discussed, not what I was seeking to find out!

 

 

Hi Jim,

That answer was on the next page, page 13.  Sorry about that.

Ken

Thanks, Ken.

I knew there had been a discussion about the intakes but couldn't remember how far back. And at the lightning speeds my lame, old 'puter loads pages, searching was going to be a bit daunting...

Hi Everyone,

Jim, you are more than welcome, glad to help out.

Thank you Glenn and Berny for the compliments, I really appreciate it!

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Today I cut some of the photo etched parts off their parts tree to prepare them for attaching to the cockpit, namely the landing gear control handle, the arresting hook control handle, and the rudder pedals.  Each of these needed to be painted flat black.  Since these are photo etched parts I presumed that I should use the airbrush to paint them so I would not cover the detail.  I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them.  Since I already had the paint mixed and in the cup, I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.  One way I thought of was to spray them while they are still attached to the sprue, which would mean I would have to mask off all the other parts on the sheet. 

Another thing I realized was that I need to bend the rudder pedals so they will stand up from the floor of the cockpit.  For now I will use a straight edge with an X-Acto blade but I will invest in a photo etch folding tool when I have the funds.  Also, I will need to get some CA glue accelerator to spray when I have the pedals positioned correctly to hold them in place.

Since this is my first build, I am still acquiring all of the necessary tools and skills, which is making my progress very slow.  But my next build should go a lot faster.

Ken

berny13

 

berny13:

 

Bockscar, did you get the AM radome yet?  Is it solid resin or hollow on the inside?  I am building my Revell F-4E with the radome open and the radar package extended so I would need a hollow radome for my project. 

 

 

I got the answer.  I ordered one Thursday and got it delivered Saturday.  It is solid resin.  I will use it on my RoG F-4F.

Haven't got much work done on my build for the last couple of weeks.  Been doing a lot of yard work while the weather will allow it. 

As ken said, it's a bit of a bummer to get solid, but if you need nose weight, it's hard to be conflicted about using it as a solid bulkhead to anchor lead. I'm interested to see how close the Rhino Plasty is to the 'official' shape.

By the way, solid aside, in your opinion is it the right shape? Does it have anything they could've done better?

Son Of Medicine Man

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Ken

It is the AMS corrected radome.  Below is a link.  I didn't know Verlinden made a corrected radome for the Phantom in 1/32 scale.  Learn something new everyday.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/132-ams-resin-corrected-nose-for-f-4e-phantom-ii-rev-kit-32034-p25446.aspx

The underside looks a tiny bit flatter. I hope that's how it looks for real, my work will be done.

Bockscar

As ken said, it's a bit of a bummer to get solid, but if you need nose weight, it's hard to be conflicted about using it as a solid bulkhead to anchor lead. I'm interested to see how close the Rhino Plasty is to the 'official' shape.

By the way, solid aside, in your opinion is it the right shape? Does it have anything they could've done better?

The shape looks correct.  I didn't take a measurement of it as I don't know the exact size of the real radome.  The only thing I see wrong is a large sink area just forward of the muzzle pad.  It shows up very well in the picture below. 

Oh yeah, that 9.0 earthquake mighta' caused that.

Berny that might explain the slightly flatter section in the same spot on the advertisement photo:

Someone had to fix the one in the photo or maybe the mold tore.  I think it really demonstrates the difference between being a prospect and a client. 

I'll buy another sanding stick and keep the filler handy, not done yet.