Carl - the 234 is looking good! You'll be finished in no time!
Eric - glad you like them Magic Tracks, they're really pretty nice once you've done a couple of sets!
dupes - Whoa, you're getting quite the late start AND all that AM stuff!! Looks like it might be a battle to see if you or I will finish last! Shoot, I'm pushing hard to just finish on time!
as for you fellas and your 
......I'm more of a wine drinker so here you go...... 
UPDATE!
Hetzer work has been slow while resin parts were curing and I continue to pack for my imminent move (I hate moving 
), but at last I have completed all the resin parts and can get back to plastic! I've included some info on the resin work I did:
First, here is what I use. Tap Plastics "Platinum Silicone" for the mold, Micro Mark's CR-600 HP Resin for the parts. I used Tap Plastics because they're just two buildings down from where I work. When I run out I'll probably switch to Micro Mark's Silicone/Urethane just to try them out.
Gotta have stuff to mix the components in and some mold release! Tap Plastics for the mold release and unmarked mixing cups, Tamiya mixing stick.
To start I had to create the mold master. Thje original parts are first glued to a piece of styrene, then I simply built a "box" around it with more styrene. Just deep enough to make the mold, which is typically 1/2" all round the parts. After the glue dried I sprayed the mold release in the box and worked it around with a small brush. This will clean the parts and box, and allow the mold to easily separate from the box and masters. I allowed the mold release to dry completely before mixing and pouring in the silicone.
I didn't take any photos of the actual mixing of the components, but its really pretty simple: With the silicone just mix equal parts of A & B and slowly pour into the box, staying in one corner. This helps prevent air bubbles in the mold. Then I quickly used a large sewing needle to poke out any stray air bubbles caught on the parts. Working time with this brand is about 10 minutes, plenty of time to work out those bubbles! After 24 hours I pulled the box apart and gently separated the mold from the master. In the photo, the upper mold is one I made last year for the Pz 38(t)'s jack block.
There was some flash around the edges because I didn't fully glue the masters to the sheet, but this is easily trimmed away with a small sharp scissors. Mold release applied, after drying I mixed the resin which is done exactly like the silicone! Equal parts A & B, but the resin only has 7 minutes of working time. Because the mold recesses are pretty narrow and shallow, instead of pouring in the resin I used the Tamiya mixer to gently drop the resin mix into the molds, filling just slighly higher than the tops.
The resin cures quite fast! 30-60 minutes for big parts, 60-120 minutes for small, thin parts like these, and turns white. It also gets quite warm which is normal for resin curing.
First few batches.
The first resin backplate was a reject as I made it too thin and forgot to poke out air bubbles. S'OK since I planned on making extras!
And the end results:
Now that the suspension parts are done, back to plastic. I noticed that the rear fenders have nasty pin marks that have to be dealt with! They're in very difficult spots because of all the ribbing...I think my first try to fix them will be to fill with Mr. Dissolved Putty and then very carefully sand smooth.
The upper hull has the small tie downs molded in. I think I'll shave them off and use some 28 gauge brass wire to recreate them.
Hopefully I'll have another update later this week!