Here is LO-P with a wash applied to the undersurfaces. This is the new mold with engraved panel lines, and the wash went on with no problem. Better still, it wiped off with no problem from the areas I didn't want it. It's acrylic craft paint from Michaels, called "Hunter Green" (I think; I put the bottle back in the basement already).
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Next is the topside of LO-P. I also applied a wash of the darkest brown I could find at Michaels--Raw Umber. I put it over the whole thing, but you can see it didn't make much of a difference against the DE/GR.
Is it better to use straight black as a wash, then?
By the way, above the model is the profile I used as reference. I thought I got it here off the FSM threads, but I can't find it again. So my thanks to the contributor.
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Below is DW-T (old mold), topsides then undersurfaces. Again, the raw umber wash didn't make much impact on the DE/DG.
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I also applied a wash, Apple Barrel "Midnight Blue" craft paint to the undersides of DW-T. I came out lighter and more subtle than I expected, which is OK. I was hoping it would settle around the raised lines, and, well, outline them.
Got kind of frustrated, because I started with only a pin wash; didn't look right, so after it dried I did a sludge wash over the whole thing, leaving the pin wash (which by that time wouldn't come off anyway). Seems it kind of blended everything together a little better.
I used a black wash in the shell ejector chutes.
Somehow, all the photos of QJ-Y disappeared between the camera and photobucket, but I used the same washes on it as on DW-T.
Hopefully I plan to finish everything up this week. Thanks for looking in.