Just hit the link - a word I reserve for something truly deserving is AWESOME - the finish is that and more, all it needs is a few raindrops to be 1:1 - thanx for the info!

mike

Primed...Finally! I used the Alclad Gloss and it went on smoothly. Dig my model "holder"?

That's definitely a different look. I have never seen it before and I kinda like it! Looks like it works on the way you perceive it vs. the actual detail.

I love the way that looks Doggs! I think I have an article on how to do it...called dual diffusion or something or other.

Came across this post on another forum the other day, and I'm thinking about trying something like this with my Jugs (to a less weathered/tore up extent). Really like the streaked pre-shade and the buildup of thin coats of different colors. Almost like dot filtering with an airbrush!  Check it out. What do y'all think?

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=37543&st=15

Thanks. I wish I had known about Hasegawa's AM tubes a few months back, but this will do the trick!

Excellent idea with the tack putty! Wish I'd done that with my Revellogram, but I'll just use a dab of Gator's Grip to secure the tubes to their backstops.

Also...Hasegawa makes their own brass for their Jug kit that are right-lengthed. I believe the Master set is intended for the Trumpy Jugs, thus the flanging.

Well, I had been putting off the guns for a while, having bought master model's aftermarket tubes. I've been wracking my brain. How to get the tubes in there without them disappearing into the wing, moving around, stained from Superglue, etc. etc.? I had to drill out the stock holes, because the guns have a flange on them in the rear. Anyway, I was going to use some extra "P-1" nylon bushings that the prop uses and superglue them into place, which could make alignment a nightmare. I decided to cram sticky tack into the gun well, with the intent of pushing the guns into place, after the cover is glued on...

How to get these:

...Into..Here:

..Result:

Doogs.. funny. mine did the same thing when I did it on my XP-47J build.. I ended up using Testor's MM gloss black,, way better results.. Glad it wasnt just me.. !! lol

p38jl

 Doogs, what did your Alclad black do, or not do, that you hated it ?? ..

It just didn't spray very well. Weird coverage and had a tendency to pool. Of course, nowhere near as bad as when I tried decanting Krylon gloss black:

While I'm at it...here's how the Tamiya gloss + gloss black came out:

[

I basically use Mr. Surfacer 1200 as I would any other primer. Biggest advantage is that it goes down very well and goes glass-smooth with a quick swipe of fine sandpaper (I'm planning to hit the wings with some micromesh polishing cloths). That and it's solvent-based, so it can stand up to pretty much anything. It and Model Master gray enamel primer are my two primers of choice, I just choose based on the needs of the build.

I've tried Alclad's black base in the past and hated it. Instead I use Tamiya X-1 gloss black cut with their gloss clear (X-19?) and thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Works really well!

[/quote]  Doogs, what did your Alclad black do, or not do, that you hated it ?? ..

some assembly required

ok here is my N model. its the 48th scale promodeler ed.  The silver is a brush on seam check, now onto the polishing phase! BTW doogs, i picked up the revell razorback from hobbylobby for $10. i'd like to throw this into the mix next. i have to say you make modeling look easy on your blog

The -N is looking nice! I've got the recent reissue in the stash, but I'm thinking I want to tackle the big Trumpy -N as my next Jug. Have to scan and blow up the "Expected Goose" markings from the Academy kit first, though.

I'll get your Revell Razor added to the front page straightaway! Have fun with it! I've found fit to be generally really good. Only major complaint is the super-thick canopy.

panzerpilot

Very nice. I've never used Mr Surfacer 1200, though it gets great remarks. I am vague on it. My question is, what are the advantages of using it prior to priming?

Are you using the Alclad Shiney black or decanted from elsewhere? I primed the cowl yesterday and painted the Master Model blast tubes with Alclad Chome. They came out very nice. I'll prime the rest today and should be NM early next week (pretty humid in Houston right now, so I am going to take my time)

I basically use Mr. Surfacer 1200 as I would any other primer. Biggest advantage is that it goes down very well and goes glass-smooth with a quick swipe of fine sandpaper (I'm planning to hit the wings with some micromesh polishing cloths). That and it's solvent-based, so it can stand up to pretty much anything. It and Model Master gray enamel primer are my two primers of choice, I just choose based on the needs of the build.

I've tried Alclad's black base in the past and hated it. Instead I use Tamiya X-1 gloss black cut with their gloss clear (X-19?) and thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Works really well!

ok here is my N model. its the 48th scale promodeler ed.  The silver is a brush on seam check, now onto the polishing phase! BTW doogs, i picked up the revell razorback from hobbylobby for $10. i'd like to throw this into the mix next. i have to say you make modeling look easy on your blog

Very nice. I've never used Mr Surfacer 1200, though it gets great remarks. I am vague on it. My question is, what are the advantages of using it prior to priming?

Are you using the Alclad Shiney black or decanted from elsewhere? I primed the cowl yesterday and painted the Master Model blast tubes with Alclad Chome. They came out very nice. I'll prime the rest today and should be NM early next week (pretty humid in Houston right now, so I am going to take my time)

Finally got the Jugs all primed up yesterday. I missed a few things...the bombs and landing gear on the Revellogram (still sitting on the sprue trees), tires all around (though I'm still waiting on spoked tires from Ultracast for the Tamiya) so I'll have to go back and pick those up later.

I used Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner. Overall it went on great and light. I was also a bit surprised at the sharp visual contrast between the Tamiya and Revellogram with the primer on. It doesn't show up quite as well in pictures, but it's very apparent in person. The raised lines very much fade into the rest of the surface, while the recessed on the Tamiya seem to leap out. Weird.

Next steps - masking canopies, shooting some shiny black to build a base for Alclad!

Gamera

Doogs: Super video clip- loved watching the spend shell casing dumping like a cascade on ground test of the eight guns

Nice prop too!

My favorite part too! Kinda makes that shot from the Matrix look silly by comparison!

Got a start on priming last night...have some areas I need to go back and clean up a bit more. Grumble.

Doogs: Super video clip- loved watching the spend shell casing dumping like a cascade on ground test of the eight guns

Nice prop too!

Looking good Doogs ! like the vid to..

Getting close to cracking out my XP soon ~ !

Coming along real well Doogs, they both look great! Thanks for the video inspiration too, I enjoyed watching them loading in the ammo and doing a test fire.

I was all set to prime the Jugs tonight. Stepped out of the office into a friggin' downpour. No paint tonight...

So I focused on getting everything masked up, did some more work on the big Fiat, and knocked out the stencil data on the CE props.

For the Revell, I'm just using kit decals, which are decent enough. 

For the Tamiya, I'm trying a set of dry transfer stencils (that are WAY more complete than any I've ever seen, even in 1/32 scale!). PITA burnishing them down onto the prop sleeves, but here's how they came out:

Okay...a bit of inspiration for the group! United News newsreel from 1943, introducing the P-47. 

Gamera

Well, I've been at the primer stage for weeks now, hoping I'll get a nice smooth coat soon, Maybe I should have warmed up with the Tamiya kit instead of starting the Promodeler first.

Same here. I put the wings on last week. They fit very well, except for the inboard trailing edge topside. Looks like I should have shimmed the wing halves a bit, in that area, with some strip styrene, when I put them together.  (heads up to anyone building the Hasegawa 1/32nd)

No big deal, as it puttied up nicely. I have a feeling the Tamiya's will be a bit better fit. I'll be priming mine as well in the next few days.

Gamera

Doogs: I think the Captain is confused as to why the USAAF is now sitting their planes on the nose instead of their landing gear They're looking good, I'm at the same stage. Well, I've been at the primer stage for weeks now, hoping I'll get a nice smooth coat soon, Maybe I should have warmed up with the Tamiya kit instead of starting the Promodeler first.

Yeah I just realized over the weekend that the big SATX contest/show is February 18th. Less than three weeks out. And I'm hoping to enter "Magic Carpet". Time to get crackin'!

Mike: Think I missed you before but I love those great Otaki kits. I think lots of people overlook them, but she should build into a very nice model.

Doogs: I think the Captain is confused as to why the USAAF is now sitting their planes on the nose instead of their landing gear They're looking good, I'm at the same stage. Well, I've been at the primer stage for weeks now, hoping I'll get a nice smooth coat soon, Maybe I should have warmed up with the Tamiya kit instead of starting the Promodeler first.

Gamera

Doogs: Oh those seatbelts are the bee's knees! When I ever get around to doing the 1/32 P-47 I've got to get some of those- I assume they have to do them in giant scale.

Yeah I got Jug belts in both 48th and 32nd so I know they exist.

Great news - I got the seams and sanding wrapped up on the Jugs last night...at least as much a I can tell before I put any primer down. Even got a second set of  eyes on my work. He didn't see anything either.

Priming starts tonight after bay and cockpit masking!

Doogs: Oh those seatbelts are the bee's knees! When I ever get around to doing the 1/32 P-47 I've got to get some of those- I assume they have to do them in giant scale.

Lew: Love those photos though I wonder how a North Carolinian ended up in Texas

Panzerpilot, the engine in the Tarheel Hal at Lonestar is the later type used in the P-47M and N, and has the later gear reduction case on the nose.  Also, the wastegates are larger than normal, I suspect the turbosupercharger is not being used and that is now the exhaust.  The old GE turbos and their complex control system are hard to maintain on a "warbird".

lewbud

While I would reccomend a drive to the Lone Star Flight Museum, Panzerpilot, these pics might tide you over.  Taken over the Thanisgiving and New Year's holidays.

Hope ya'll  enjoy.  What are you all using for DDG?  I think someone mentioned a modelmaster Euro color being close?

 

Thanks for the pics! Those help a lot.

DDG?  I used Vallejo Bronze Green. I did read on some other forums, and here, that MM Euro I Dark Green is close.  Apparently, they used a variation of these and differed a bit, depending on manufacture location. If you're up for some alchemy, apparently Tamiya can be mixed to make it:  2 parts X-4, 20 parts XF-11, and 1 part XF-2.

Incidentally, they had tried green zinc chromate, but it was "too much".

While I would reccomend a drive to the Lone Star Flight Museum, Panzerpilot, these pics might tide you over.  Taken over the Thanisgiving and New Year's holidays.

 Hope ya'll  enjoy.  What are you all using for DDG?  I think someone mentioned a modelmaster Euro color being close?