Nice work and great pics Ben,sometimes the pics don't do a build justice,but those look great.

Ben, really nice work there! The zimmerit looks terrific!

Aww shucks

Thanks guys - your comments are really appreciated especially coming from such quality modellers.

I've decided to build the Elefant next. It's VERY different and looks like an exciting build.

All the best fellas,

Ben

Ben, you're the man bud. Great build and yes, the photos are superb. As always, a pleasure to follow your WIP. Thanks for partaking. 

Looks so much better in the final pics been !

Ben, right away saw a world of difference in this new set of photos.  Much brighter now and easier to see the details.  Congrats on the completion - it looks great!

regards,

Jack

Good evening guys,

I would like to confirm that THE ANZIO TIGER I IS COMPLETE - DEFINATELY! 100%!

I went up town this morning and had a Brass nameplate made for the base. I'm so pleased with this build I'm over the moon

I have added some spent shell cases onto the rear deck and shut the escape hatch up - the shells aren't fixed in place btw.

My Godfather Dave took these final photos for me - MY GOD he is good! His set-up is incredible!

I really hope you like the final photos guys - this has been a great GB and I've loved this build. Thanks Tigerman!

Final completion photos:

On the base - the reflection caused the wheels to reflect off the Brass nameplate so Dave took a photo of the base on it's own and photoshopped the nameplate onto the photo below:

Rear view: Please excuse the pigment on the back. I have tidied them up now!

Please let me know what you think guys - I really hope you like her!

Right - I'm off to grab my GB badge and to decide what to build next!

Tigerman - thanks for hosting this brilliant GB. You've been a great host!

Take care guys,

Ben

I concur Anthony, that is a ton of roadwheels. Hence, that's why i opted for a late Tiger with steel wheels.

I like those Mini Art figures.

"Toothpicks", yeah.

So I have time and access to get some pics up today and forgot the memory card out of my camera. Classic. By the time I get pics up, they'll include "finished" shots.

Man, blink and 40 pages go by!

That's why you have to put toothpick at the corners of your eyes to keep 'em from closing.

Anthony that is looking real nice.  Looking forward to seeing that winter scheme come together.

Bish

Thanks for the info Joe. If i decide to try this, might be an idea to practice on some old plastic. If i can get it right, that would be better than buying another iron.

 Yes indeed. I practiced for a good bit on my "stunt" Tiger prior to putting the rubber to the road.

I got all assembly complete and primed and ready.Also started on the roadwheel madness.God that's a lot of roadwheels !!

Since I'm going to try a whitewash,this will be the crew:

Thanks for the info Joe. If i decide to try this, might be an idea to practice on some old plastic. If i can get it right, that would be better than buying another iron.

Bish

Ye, what they said. Thats a neat idea and i like the results. I have a 25w iron, you think that might be to much?

Bish -  I tried this first with a 25W iron and yes it would work but, I had to be really careful as it would melt the plastic fast and thus leave blobs and stringys. The 15W, being of lower heat, allowed more to time to "scar" rather than melt. I suppose an even lower wattage iron, 12W or even 6W, would allow even more control.

 On a side note, My activity here will be limited  for the next couple of weeks as I will be engaged in Holiday prep work and then traveling to Seattle to share our granddaughters first Christmas. I pray that each and everyone of you are blessed this holiday season with the Spirit of family, good will and gratitude. 

RBaer

Man, blink and 40 pages go by!

I promise, I have been working on mine, in fact it's close to finished. I also promise to have pics.... barring unforseen procastination I may be able to get some up on Saturday. In the meantime, I'll be perusing all the fine work that's been posted since I last looked.

I know what you mean, this thread is flying. Looking forward to seeing some pics.

Man, blink and 40 pages go by!

I promise, I have been working on mine, in fact it's close to finished. I also promise to have pics.... barring unforseen procastination I may be able to get some up on Saturday. In the meantime, I'll be perusing all the fine work that's been posted since I last looked.

Ye, what they said. Thats a neat idea and i like the results. I have a 25w iron, you think that might be to much?

Joe: Good idea, like it! I'll have to give it a whirl myself.

Joe, you might be onto something there. Great idea and effort.

 Hey There Compadres, Well, I actually have some progress pics. These are pics of my attempt to simulate the weld bead around the topside of the turret. I did this by wiring an xacto blade to the end of a low watt, 15 watt, soldering iron and carefully scarring the plastic with the tip of the blade where the bead should be. The low wattage is critical as you do not get unwanted melting of the plastic i.e. better control. I need to go around and touch it up a bit but, overall I'm rather pleased with the result. I regret the quality of my pics but I do the best I can with what I have. Yet another new technique to add to my tool chest. I realize that it may not be absolutely realistic but it worked weel for simulating the effect. Open for comment and critique.

Hinksy

Looking good Andy!

Thanks for the helmet photos Jack - I like the Brass ones. My Friul guy sells them I think

Ben, this is another option for German helmets. I have some of these as well as those Aber liners and both sets look really nice, though not had a chance to use them yet. But these from SKP come with metal helmets, so saves haveing to drill out the inside.

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/skpmodel/skp016.html

I can't remember where i got mine from, i will look it up and let you know. As for the Aber ones, i am not sure if he sells them at Armour Models, he doesn't carry a lot of Aber items. But Hannants do have them.

Edit: I remembered where i got those SKP helmets. They were from Historex. A bit pricey, but a nice touch if your only using them now and again.

https://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=SKP016

Hasenpfeffer

Marc - Yeah, I thought it looked a lot better sanded down (the back side) so that the squares were barely held together by the extra resin. Was a challenge to be sure.

Great job on the tow loop. A little shorter but looks really good.

... and I won't tell anyone if you don't that if you flip the cable over end to end it will reverse the twist... 

(EDIT: Never my my smartassedness... I was wrong!)

Dave , too funny man ! I had to go look to see what it would do myself ! LOL

Mark , good stuff man !  Those tow cable eyes look spot on man .Are those a.m. cables copper wire ? I've never had good luck with copper wire that i've used from insulated wires ......yes i stripped the insulation first .........its always too stiff to work with .

SMJmodeler

Shellback:  Thanks for taking the time to describe your technique...unfortunately you didn't address the one thing I was hoping to learn about most......the dusty sloped armor was what really caught my eye.  I've seen this done before but I've been reluctatnt to try it because I'm worried that it will kill the color too much...yours is very well executed so I was hoping to pick your brain a bit for techniques.

Hey Steve , i know what your talking about . I had a problem on this one after i applied the matt and then rubbed the light dust pigment into the surface the camo was opaque in my pics . I went back over it with a misty coat of Future airbrushed from a distance of 18 inches ............i wanted it fairly dry when it hit the surface . What this did was take out some of the dry dusty opaque look . The Future kills the effect of the light pigments to certain extent . I lightly dusted the galacis with light dust pigment again and removed it where there was too much with a clean soft bristled brush . Some pics still looked to dusty though . I use tungsten lights when i photo so i adjusted the white balance for that . My main helper was using the photo editor in "windows live photo gallery" on my p,c. . I used the "adjust exposure" and adjusted the "brightness and contrast ". You can get rid of a lot of flaws there . After adjusting the exposure i went to the "adjust details" and "sharpened" the pic there .

Let me know if that helps or not .

Carl

Looking good Andy!

Thanks for the helmet photos Jack - I like the Brass ones. My Friul guy sells them I think

Yeah - Mr surfacer kicks butt. I use 1000 from a can and 500 from the jar when I'm brush applying it i.e. stipple it on to get a cast surface effect.

Next time I buy some I'll try some rattlecan 1200.

Ben

SMJmodeler

deafpanzer:  You use this stuff as a  PRIMER?...huh  It sprays through an airbrush?  I've had some real clean-up nightmares with BRUSHES after applying Mr. Surfacer LET ALONE an airbrush!!!

 

I need some more info on this one because I'm intrigued by the idea...Do you texture the armor while it's wet for additional effects?

Steve- Yeah like Marc said earlier I use it all the times as primer.  Nothing does better than Mr Surfacer.  Makes it a lot easier for me to paint on especially figures as it bites very well and stays ON too! 

Cleaning can be pain in ass but I am used to it.  I use Klean-Strip Lacquer Thinner and it worked very well.  One quart would go long way... that's why I wear mask and rubber gloves. 

Marc- Thanks for the great tip!  It bugs me alot when I cough so much just for two tiny AM cables... so I will definitely give OOK wire a try.   

Nah, no ouch.  Just bustin' your onions.  One thing about me is I am rarely serious  You'll know when I am 

I made a hook from a hat pin because that metal is really hard and has little flex.  Put that in a pin vise and got the chuck as tight as I could so it didn't spin.  Used pliers to really sung it down.  Twisted a small loop in one end of the wire and grabbed the other end with the pliers.

Yeah, deserved that one, lol... ouch. 

How'd you twist it tighter and evenly?

No worries Dave.  I didn't think you were a smart ass.  I knew you were wrong

Marc - Yeah, I thought it looked a lot better sanded down (the back side) so that the squares were barely held together by the extra resin. Was a challenge to be sure.

Great job on the tow loop. A little shorter but looks really good.

... and I won't tell anyone if you don't that if you flip the cable over end to end it will reverse the twist... 

(EDIT: Never my my smartassedness... I was wrong!)