did you paint the camo first and the white over it? i have had better luck painting the white on the primer and taping off the stripes before painting the darker colors. sometimes, after putting down the tape, a light coat of white on the tape edges will keep other paint from flowing under though it has to be real thin to avoid a ridge.

Peeps,

Thank you for the comments. Yes this will be a RAF P47D. I just thought the scheme was something different from all the shiny ones you see. Not that there is anything wrong with that...

The paint bleeding is mostly because of my poor prepwork... After the camo was laid down i didn't think much of the stripes so i mixed up some paint, slapped on the tape and sprayed... could have thought the process through a tiny bit better. Also in the future i think i will "contaminate" the white a bit since this is really shiny teeth kind of white if you get my drift...

But like i said, i think i can work with it sofar...

Richard

Bish & Richard: Great work there guys!!!

Agree.  Very good  results.

Richard, liking the 'bolt!

M/TB379

Well ill be darned....slap me silly and call me Shirly.... These decals from Academy are actually nice. 

They dont need an hour of soaking.....theyre thin ish and they go where i want them. I seriously never thought i would live to see the day...

Richard

Higher Shirley, your to out of range to slap.

Nice to hear someone haveing a good experiance with Academy decals.

GRIN -- well that encourages me to try Academy's decals when the sheet looks really good, such as in their F-16C. It looks as good as anything aftermarket, and very comprehensive. What's the worst that can happen? I'll need to grab an AM sheet if they don't work out, which is exactly what I'd be doing anyway...!

M/TB379

As promised, some more piccys, this time with the Green added. Its coming together better that when i built the first one.

Next up, black undersides and decals. 

I'm likin' the Chinook!

Thanks OWL.

Nice-looking Chinook, Bish.  Smooth finish.

I bought some Xtracolour paint from Hannant's recently.  Does it "work" like Humbrol?  That is, for thinning and application with an airbrush?

I use their own brand of thinner for boith Humbrol and Xtracolour. I don't use Humbrol often, but i did for the black underside on the first Chinook and i will do for this one, and i treat them just the same and get the same coverage.

Here is the Jug after just a few hours of work, it's going well indeed.

Theuns

Bish - Like the Chinook, a lot. I've used Xtracolour a little, Humbrol a lot. The thing  Ilike about their gloss colours is that they dry quite hrd, some of the acrylic glosses can be a little soft.

Theuns, I've got one of those Academy Jugs ready to go, I've just tryin to finish a couole of other things first. I'm watching your with interest.

Cheers

Tony

I am a big fan of enamels, i like xtracolour especially becuae they have all the colours i need without the hassle of mixing. I know some people don't like the drying times, but i just to use time to get on with other things in the build.

Theuns, thats looking great, is that a 72nd kit? I have 3 of their razorback in that scale, looks like that build up nicely.

Indeed the 1/72, great fun to build.

I have done the gloss black and waiting for it to cure, it is only 1 degree celcius here today so I am not confident it will do so any time quick.

In the meantime I'll work on the Mirage 3C's cockpit. Maybe as it is a force of nature I can enter it here aswell???

Theuns

mirage fits :)

Apologies for the lack of pictures I've been slack with the camera but the construction is almost done. The good thing about the kit is that not much putty is needed. The bad thing is that there is a hell of a lot of sanding to do. I will get some pictures tomorrow.

Bish: Lookin' good!

Theuns: Nice work! I notice you've already attached the guns, you must be a better modeler than me since I'd have knocked off most of them before I got done painting her.

Thanks Ganera.

Ye, i am the same with guns. I always leave them to the end, along with oitot probes and other items like that.

Alright so here are two pics of the tornado I'm working on. 

The fuselage is almost completely smooth as I've pretty much had to sand everything off to get the fuselage seam right. I really hate scribing but I'm going to have to bite the bullet and try the scriber again. I think I'll just do some basic panel lines like the original instead of according to plans.

This will take up some time as I have to wait for some paint to arrive from the UK as all the stockers in Oz seem to have dried up on 36375 in Gunze, Lifecolour and Vallejo. Why doesn't any paint company come out with a paint set for modern jets? It would be a seller for sure. 

BW: Nice work! Started on one of those years ago and the fit was off enough I ended up tossing her in the spare parts bin instead of finishing her.

Anyone want to buy an almost good as new scriber? I hate this thing. I'm almost tempted to just draw on panel lines when necessary in the future.

Blitzwing

Anyone want to buy an almost good as new scriber? I hate this thing. I'm almost tempted to just draw on panel lines when necessary in the future.

Don't blame you, I have one somewhere. I've found a X-Acto knife blade seems to work better for me than the scriber.

I"ll start here with building the USS Wisconsin, BB-64, as she appeared in 1944 and 1945.  The Wisky only carried one camouflage measure for her entire career during WWII.  The kit is 1/700 Fujimi, and is actually marketed as USS Iowa, but the castings and parts are incorrect for either Iowa or New Jersey, and more closely resemble either Wisky or Missouri.  One of the main visible differences was the radar array on the foremast, otherwise armament seems to be nearly identical.

I have all the parts separated from the sprues, mold-lines cleaned up, sanded, smoothed and prepared for painting. 

After studying the construction steps and parts, I decided I would need to finish the deck and hull component, attach the three 16-inch gun turrents and add the waterline plate early.  The main batteries are attached to the deck with holding pins from underneath (so they swivel), and the deck comes molded to the hull, except for the forward section.  I decided all this needed to be done first, so the deck could be painted before the hull.  This is only the fourth ship I've built, and it seems a lot of ship assembly consists of deciding what to put together first, and when, in order to make painting easier.

The first photo shows initial masking amidship.  The deck and molded-on superstructure has already been painted with WEM Colourcoat's Haze Gray.  I used regular paint masking tape from Walmart (a 3-M product), but noticed that the gummy adhesive tended to pull off the tape and leave residue on the surface.  I haven't had this happen before with this brand of tape.

The second photo shows the locations for the two aft-most main batteries, and visible in the upper left corner is the opening where the forward section of the main deck will fit.

The third photo shows more of the fore section of the deck.  The kit shows its age.  I'm guessing it might have originated in the 1970's.  The liferafts are cast into the deck and there are no details like portholes, windows or doors molded into the superstructure--just plain, blank walls.  It's kind of stark.

The last photo shows the fully masked deck and hull, with the foredeck in place.  Gunshields for the 20mms and some of the tubs for the 40mms were molded on, so they had to be masked both front and back.  This can be a challenge with strips of tape cut so small and narrow.  That's the other part of ship building--mask, mask, mask.  The deck will be painted standard 20-B Deck Blue.

Now the next steps will be painting the deck, then assembling, painting and attaching the 16-inch guns.  I've got a start on these, and plan to post photos of those steps soon.

Thanks for looking.

There's some great work happening here! I had meant to move the Raiden along a bit further before posting again, but I suddenly realised I have pics taken a while ago still waiting to appear, so they might as well.

I forgot to take some shots before closing the fuselage. Here's the seat with scratched straps (tape, painted with acrylics, nothing fancy, in fact it's the same piece of tape that was masking the locations for the cockpit inside the fuselage... Waste not, want, not!)

And the opposite view, showing the IP (drybrushed with enamel silver and the lenses created with Future):

Then I mounted the engine in preparation for the cowlings...

...and fitted the wings and tail surfaces. The fit was surprisingly good, needing only a small amount of filler at the front of the upper joints and the back of the rear joint, which is more or less a given on even the finest kits.

The cowling is now in place, the fit was attrocious -- the exhaust assemblies were separate parts and nothing wanted to fit. It took considerable filing and scraping to thin things down enough to even get close, and superglue to hold everything in place, but eventually I acheived a close enough fit to do.

Next up, I brush painted some cockpit green areas that were missed in the spraying, painted the radio box that goes behind the seat with black enamel, and filed and trimmed what has to be the worst canopy I have ever encountered -- more on that next time.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Well done cockpit, Mike.  

The Winsconsin is coming along nicely. Are you putting this on a base. I take it its a waterline kit.

Nice work on the pit Mike.