Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Wow! Thats alot of weight in paint!!!! Alot of weight!!! And alot of money!!!

For your information guys the paint on a Jumbo jet weight 1.3 tons (1300 Kg)

That may be true about gbeing bold to get the axis to come up and play. One of my favorites is when the the fighters flew over Europe in bomber formations and the axis boys seen it on there radar and flew up to meat some heavys and got a surprise.

Joe rix.  Ya that's true not sure but most paint requires primer wich would add more. Reading these articles on aircraft about additional weapons or cameras droping performance.

Shattenspatan.  This would be my first hasegawa I have always heard good things about there aircraft kits. As for the edwards I have bin following what the gang has bin saying about there fit isues. I got a 190d for xmas its a werkend version that's wy I was asking earlier if was the same mold as the profipack edwards. Looks like they are.

Thats right Joe... and another thing I had seen was that the allied pilots were growing bolder and in a way "daring" the enemy to come up and "dance". They were in a sense saying, that we dont need to hide from you... here we are!

Now in the Pacific Theater, the paint was a must to cut down on the oxidation and corrosion from the sea spray, and constant humidity, which also picked up salt from the water and the dust and sand of the islands. Or atleast thats what I read.

I know when I was a young Marine doing my WesPac tour, we had a guy in motor "T" that stripped the OD paint from his M151A1 Jeep radiator and other parts, and polished the brass till you could shave in the reflection. The next afternoon at inspection, he opened the hood and all that brass had turned green!

Doug

Wait, they didn't just do it because NMF planes look so sexy?

On a more serious note: I think as well that the weigth of the paint was an important factor. And remember: Paint costs something too, especially big amounts of it

I remember reading, quite some time ago, about the reasoning behind no longer painting aircraft by the allies. It was all about weight reduction. So, this discussion got me to thinking. A gallon of paint weighs 12 lbs. I know because I weighed one when I got to work this morning. Now, I can't tell you exactly how many gallons of paint it took to cover, let's say, a P-38. But, I'll fathom it took more than 5. That's 60 lbs. Now 60 lbs+ added to a high performance fighter plane begins to have an adverse effect on speed and performance. Consider how much paint it would take to paint a B-17. Anyway, I think you get the just of why it made sense to omit paint from the airframe of combat aircraft.

Blackdog: You are going to love that kit! I think the Hasaegawa kits are the best 190s out there. The Eduard kits are almost as good IMO but they are not as much mun to build because you have to watch out for fitting issues with each new sub assembly.

John: First of all, Joe is right about your tiny 190! Most impressive. He is building Tamiya's D-9 with lotsa AM goodies (and Eduard landing gear because the tamiya legs are too short)

Joe,

   you keep posting any more pictures of that D-9 and I'll have to add one to my stash!  I have everything but the D-9 in the there I think.   that is a Eduard right?

John

mustang1989

You know I just wanted to take a sec or two here and recognize John's build. If I've said it once I've said it a thousand times, "How you guys can pull off some of the stuff you do in 1/72 scale and make it look like a 48th scale build is truly nothing short of amazing". That is one spectacular build you've got goin' on there John.

Nice work on the decals Mustang. I like the overpsrayed Grouppe bar!

Rigidrider. That's interesting I knew that the alies wasn't Using camo that much at the end of the war I just didn't know the reason.

That's a great looking build I like the all yellow tail. I have bin considering doing some foil that would be interesting to see. I do metal leafing at work no idea how it aplys to models.

Yes that 1/72 work is amazing.

Speaking of finnish again it seems that the British ww2 birds had a mat/low sheen finnish on them.

Greg.  Thanks pal I took your advise and picked up that fw-190f-8 w/bt700 looks like its going to be a good build. I can see now what you was dealing with on the bomb fins.

Absulutely stunning work as usual, mate! May I ask how you spray the edges of the camo?

Absulutely stunning work as usual, mate! May I ask how you spray the edges of the camo?

You know I just wanted to take a sec or two here and recognize John's build. If I've said it once I've said it a thousand times, "How you guys can pull off some of the stuff you do in 1/72 scale and make it look like a 48th scale build is truly nothing short of amazing". That is one spectacular build you've got goin' on there John.

Thanks Doug and JJ! My bare metal foil came in the mail last week and that'll be next for the undersides. There's really the no shortage of colors on this scheme!!! Sheesh!

Man that just gets better and better!

Kicking Butt Joe!!!

Good mornin' gang! Just a small update and a different angle here. Got the decals on the other side:

and back to the L/H side for a better side view:

I guess it's a question of personal preference. Personally I think a dead flat aircraft model just looks a bit off. I'm not saying it has to be shiny, but I prefer a slightly shiny finish (just not completely flat)

Nathan: That's interesting to hear: My clear coat does fully cure, but it takes a long time. Maybe it's a bad bottle after all... The semi-gloss clear tends to dry within the 1 hour timespan you mentioned though...

SchattenSpartan

Bish

Rigidrider

Clemens... I dont know how you keep track of anything! LOL... Your doing a great job though!. Soon as I'm dome with the Japanese GBIII I want to do one last 190 here then I have another Do335 to do! Beyond that is a Stuka build with Bish, and the 1944 GB... Guess I can keep track of some things,,, Not easy though!LOL...

Doug

PS... Waiting for maybe a renewed 109 build schedule(ha)

I really don't know how he does it. Its easy to join a GB, its another thing to join loads and complete the builds. I know how hard it is when you do multiple genres, lots more GB's to join. I have trouble keeping up with mine, when he does it, its on a big scale lol. I have to write my GB's down in the order that they finish and try and build in that order.

I don't have a clue how I manage to keep track of (almost) everything myself... 

Bish: I really recommend the Normal gloss coat, but it takes really long to fully cure and you don't want to get any turpentine near it. That means it'S only an option if you don't plan on adding any washings afterwards (except Flory washes)

Thats interesting on the long drying time of the Alclad Mineral spirit based Klear Kote. Joe (Lawdog) on here says his bottle dries within 1 hour of application. I have read on other reviews that Alclad had some quality control issues at first and had a bad batch of these bottles. They would basically never fully dry. Alclad was replacing these for free at one time. I did buy a bottle of Klear Kote awhile ago and yep, go figure, it never fully cured once I airbrushed it on the model. I never bothered buying a new bottle, because I have since then started using the Aqua Gloss, and have had no issues.

What I've read about and been told about the polished metal surfaces on the aircraft was at one time almost all aircraft practiced some form of camo. as we achieved air superiority, the camo was no longer needed and most all paint and camo was stripped from the aircraft. Such as the early B-17s compared to the late war "Shiny" NMF B-17s and B24s. The NMF finished aircraft had a slight speed advantage and a lower fuel consumption due to they just flat weighed less without the paint. On the other hand the Axis increased their camo to help conceal their aircraft while on the ground.

I have notice'd that in the early war documetarys that some of the aircraft have shines on them.and ilso came across pilots taling about there mechanic's buffing them to smooth shines and how that would get them a few mph faster.

I can just hear the comments about how your 109 model is not supposed to be shiny. :D

Clemens, thanks for your additional input on Alclad Klear coats. Interesting your comment about dead flat finishes on aircraft. Not sure where I got the idea they should be.

Joe and everyone, I wholeheartedly agree about the work you (joe) are doing hosting this GB. It has been and continues to be outstanding.

SchattenSpartan

Bish

Rigidrider

Clemens... I dont know how you keep track of anything! LOL... Your doing a great job though!. Soon as I'm dome with the Japanese GBIII I want to do one last 190 here then I have another Do335 to do! Beyond that is a Stuka build with Bish, and the 1944 GB... Guess I can keep track of some things,,, Not easy though!LOL...

Doug

PS... Waiting for maybe a renewed 109 build schedule(ha)

I really don't know how he does it. Its easy to join a GB, its another thing to join loads and complete the builds. I know how hard it is when you do multiple genres, lots more GB's to join. I have trouble keeping up with mine, when he does it, its on a big scale lol. I have to write my GB's down in the order that they finish and try and build in that order.

I don't have a clue how I manage to keep track of (almost) everything myself... 

Bish: I really recommend the Normal gloss coat, but it takes really long to fully cure and you don't want to get any turpentine near it. That means it'S only an option if you don't plan on adding any washings afterwards (except Flory washes)

Thanks buddy, I will keep that in mind. On my previous NMF builds I used Flory and Tamiya weathering sets and was really happy with those, so will stick with them. Long curing time's are not a problem, gives me plenty of time to work on the base and scene.

Bish

Rigidrider

Clemens... I dont know how you keep track of anything! LOL... Your doing a great job though!. Soon as I'm dome with the Japanese GBIII I want to do one last 190 here then I have another Do335 to do! Beyond that is a Stuka build with Bish, and the 1944 GB... Guess I can keep track of some things,,, Not easy though!LOL...

Doug

PS... Waiting for maybe a renewed 109 build schedule(ha)

I really don't know how he does it. Its easy to join a GB, its another thing to join loads and complete the builds. I know how hard it is when you do multiple genres, lots more GB's to join. I have trouble keeping up with mine, when he does it, its on a big scale lol. I have to write my GB's down in the order that they finish and try and build in that order.

I don't have a clue how I manage to keep track of (almost) everything myself... 

Bish: I really recommend the Normal gloss coat, but it takes really long to fully cure and you don't want to get any turpentine near it. That means it'S only an option if you don't plan on adding any washings afterwards (except Flory washes)

I have just checked the front page. JJ is so right, that line up is awesome.

(Just don't tell Mustang what an amazing GB he has hosted)

falconmod

I got most of the decals on the 1/72 190 yesterday,  just the LG ones left to put on.  only the canopy and landing gear left to go,  and of course weathering.

Oh and the prop.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to make the white spirel on the nose?  it did not come with a decal for that.

John

O now that's nice. I have a kit of the same aircraft in 32nd, but don't think I have ever seen one built before. Love the snake. Great work on the paint job, I really like the mottling.

Rigidrider

 

Clemens... I dont know how you keep track of anything! LOL... Your doing a great job though!. Soon as I'm dome with the Japanese GBIII I want to do one last 190 here then I have another Do335 to do! Beyond that is a Stuka build with Bish, and the 1944 GB... Guess I can keep track of some things,,, Not easy though!LOL...

Doug

PS... Waiting for maybe a renewed 109 build schedule(ha)

I really don't know how he does it. Its easy to join a GB, its another thing to join loads and complete the builds. I know how hard it is when you do multiple genres, lots more GB's to join. I have trouble keeping up with mine, when he does it, its on a big scale lol. I have to write my GB's down in the order that they finish and try and build in that order.

And don't even think about a 109 GB yet, my head will explode.

Clemen's, Greg, interesting discussion on the Alclad klear. I have done 3 kits with Alclad but have never seale them because I wasn't sure what to seal them with. If I have understood that right, you would recommend the Gloss or Aqua Gloss, preferably the former.