Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Bish is building a 32nd scale 109??

Monty, what are you applying the super glue with?

Monty, is that the A-3 kit, I can't see it listed on the front page. I think Joe is slacking.

Nice work there.

Just checked those out and they look very handy. And as I was checking around the site, I realised that I was supposed to have got the 32nd canopy's for the 109, I had forgotten about that.

Thanks again Nathan.

Doug, nice idea. Might be a bit thick for 72nd scale, but I have used those for 35th wooden flooring before.

Nathan, thanks. I did think the handle looked a bit tacky. I will check that site out, I have looked at it before, but not for those. Thanks.

Hi Gents, I am shifting grear to the putting phase. in 72 scale, these models measure up pretty small!

Not much sanding on the Tamiya copy, but boy....cant say the same for the Academy one. Here are some pics from few nights ago.

Taking use of the superglue's capilary action.

Haven't done a Tamiya for a very long time: the detail is just gorgeous for a 72 scaler!

They don't call them "safety" matches for nothing, I guess.

Bish- The CMK Razor saw is ok. the handle is plastic and comes on a sprue that you need to cut out and screw together. Kinda cheesy. The blades are a little thick. Even the extra fine cut is not as nice as the JLC Saw. If I were you, I'd check out RB productions. He's in Ireland so not too far away from you.

Monty...Yeah we do alot of that here (ha)  but we all learn alot from each other.  As I had said earlier... not trying to change anyones habits , just stating my reasons and opinions on both. Keeping in mind that there are times when only , say , enamels will do,  but I, ve just grown used to acrylics. Take care new friend!

Bish, I started to use either popcicle sticks to simulate the planking that is the most common type of hard stand, but again I didnt have enough, but I did have a sheet of Plasti-Struct block wall

! I just cut to size, glued down and "weathered". Then applied plaster and snow, I set the snow with hair spray.

Doug

Doug, now that looks better on its base. Your right about the show. What did you use for the hard standing.

Mustang, great work on the engine. That's an interesting tool there, how is the engine secured to the wood.

I think its time I got myself a decent razor saw. Was checking on Hannants and saw two types. CMK do one that's similar to the old fashioned razor blades. The others look more like normal saw's. Does anyone know if one type is better than the other.

JOE RIX, that makes two of us. I have mostly used enamels for years.

I really enjoy your discussion on enamel versus acrylics. Wished it was a choice here in this part of the world. Following closely, though Gents.

Monty

Hey Nathan! You bet!!! Scan  em in!

Thanks Nathan... That snow is just a tad large for 48th scale, but I ran out of the right size. I will have to replace the next trip to the Hobby shop or Hobby Lobby.

Thanks Joe. Yup, thats why they make so many different types and brands. The way I see it... Whatever floats yer boat! Thanks again my friends!

Doug

Whoops, sorry I missed saying thank you jugjunkie for expanding on your antenna prior to painting method. It does seem backward to me but, that means nothing as I am programmed.

Mustang- I did find some pics of a Dora Black 10, of III JG 26, only 3 Werk Numbers behind yours. Same colors and wing undersides, only it lacks a yellow tail. If your interested I'll scan and post them up here.

Joe: She's looking better all the time.

Doug: Sweet Dio! Glad you went the extra mile on that build. It really adds to you miraculous effort.

I'm the opposite of you all as I am an enamel man and have been slowly replacing my acrylics. Although I still have specific needs for some of the acrylics. That is all.

Really nice base Doug. I like the wet/muddy look. I know snow is hard to replicate, but you did a convincing job.

Greg- glad you found some saws. Good quality thin/fine razor saws are a must for all types of modeling, not just resin. I have about 10 exacto blades on my bench at any given moment, each chucked with different blades/saws, glue loopers, riveters, etc...

Greg... I have a bit of dry tip issue but nothing that I cant deal with. I guess I'm a bit confused, I hear about all the drytip and to me its not that big a deal. I am trying to fugure why you might have so much problem. Now me... I keep a towel (small cloth) in hand and every few moments I back wash the paint by holding the cloth over the tip and releasing air while fully pulling trigger back which blows air back into the reservoir , mixing the paint and clears any dryness. But maybe I thin a bit more then some. Im not big on measuring out exact ammounts, and just add paint , then thinner and mix until it looks good to me. I will try in gun, and if it sputters or tries to splatter I add more thinner, if its too runny I add a few more drops of paint until it comes out smooth. Depending on desired look thats where the pressure adjustments come into play. My typical shooting pressure is almost always 18-20 psi.  Higher for close up /thin paint worh, and lower to fog very thin paint and washes. We'll get it figured out for you. Keep trying!

Doug

For some reason the last comment didnt print... I had added...

Her hardstand will require a good cleaning that wasnt possible this time due to the short turn around time required to get her in the air again, Mud and snow pack in around her wheels causing brake and landing gear problems so her lower doors were removed to try and reduce such build ups.

Darn it Joe... You've left too much time for me to add to the Staffel! (lol)

Joe, I found the intro to the DVD on Vallejo site. Can you advise where the DVD is avail for purchase from? As you know, I am an avid Vallejo user and have to have this DVD!

Doug, even after my delight painting my TBM nose ring Tamiya yellow, I never did follow through on my pledge to give Tamiya acryls a serious go.

Seeing some improvement my efforts with Vallejo at lower pressures, thinner viscosity and smaller needle diameter, but I'm not there yet. I am going to do some testing against MM and Tamiya for sure now.

Do you have any reason to believe that dry tip is any worse with Vallejo than with Tamiya or MM? As far as I can tell, dry tip is my main problem. I've tried retarders, etc to no particular avail.

Ok, back to test fitting my A8 fuselage halves now. Arrggghhhh! (reminder, newbie Eduard builder here, and it IS ok for you guys to make fun of me. :) )

OK, here she is on her Dio base... Not real fancy but I think it gets the intent across.

Red 7 is being prepped for her second mission of the day, With the Reich collapsing on all fronts, she is needed to help buy the retreating troops a bit of time to put all possible distance between themselves and the pursuing Russian Army.

Two of her "Black Men" are doing what they can to get her ready to fly again so soon. Her starting cart was towed out and is being plugged in while another cleans the cockpit and canopy.

Joe, Excellent work as always... Your engine is very realistic. Gonna put a ser # on?

Greg... You can do it, Thats why I like the Tamiya and Model Master paints because they will thin with Alcohol or Lacquer thinner without any problem. Using those two mediums help to atomize the paint at a dryer rate than water, and it (they) also help the paint to adhere better then water, dries naturally faster too. If you choose to use either of these to thin, Just crack the pressure up a bit.

Doug

Greg:I started off using acrylics just simply because I paint indoors and have no fumes to contend with. This counts for alot to keep everybody that resides in the house from getting a case of the grumpy butt at me. But I found that I'm getting really confident in my abilities with acrylic paint.

There's a totally AWESOME DVD from Vallejo by Mig Jimenez called AFV acrylic techniques. Its dealing with armor but there are some worthwhile techniques in there. I love watching it because he's taking a Panzer II from primer to paint to final weathering and it's the greatest, and it's all with acrylics. Give it a shot and watch it.

Everybody:Well I've got the engine assy together minus guns. Next will be the build up of the nose/radiator assy and then the prop assy. FYI just because I've had a few of you about the exhaust staining technique that I use: I painted both exhaust pipe assemblies with a coat of rattle can silver. After allowing the silver to cure out I applied a thinned down rust acrylic over them to allow just a little silver to show through to give the appearance of metal with some rust/ oxidation on metal instead of a painted exhaust in all rust. That would have looked like what it would have been-pipes painted rust color.  Then light oil based black wash (MIG productions) , allowed to dry and then dry brushing black pastel on the #2 through the #6 exhaust stacks on both sides. #1 doesn't accumulate any soot on the outside due to being the first stack on each side. I dabbed some thinned down black acrylic in the end of the pipe and made sure that the circumference of each pipe outlet had the silver showing through to simulate the metal of the pipe.

Here goes:

Nathan, thank you sir! You solved many curiosities of mine in that one post. Now I know those PE saws that fit in x-acto blade really work, the JMC you recommended are just what I've been wanting. I found the blades somewhere but couldn't find the handle. Been looking for a source for actual surgical scalpels and blades, etc.

What a cool online store, umm-usa. A bit odd to navigate, but they sure have some neat stuff! Thanks again!

Doug, interesting to hear how your progression to acrylics occured. Mine was much simpler. Back when I fell off the face of the earth modeling-wise, not sure acrylics even existed at that time. I read a bunch of threads here before I bought any paint for my first kit back, decided to give acrylics a try. Good thing I had you guys to help me through that first build with the MM acrylics or I might have given up on acrylics in general!

I'm sold, but still have to figure out if I can manage the very fine spray jobs with them or if I will have to resort to enamels. I figure if you and other here can do it, eventually I might get the hang of it.

I think I need to stop yacking about modeling and go down and practice now.

Greg, I guess its just a personal preferance, Years ago when the acrylics were first starting to force its way into the hobby, I tried them and swore I would never use another acrylic again...EVER. Again IMO Polly-S which was one of the first ones I tried was HORRID! Terrible adhesion, poor coverage and very difficult to thin.

That was in the mid 70s, and I didnt touch another until the mid 80s, I bought a few bottles by accident thinking them to be enamel. well I didnt feel like returning them and thought to give them another try, Much to my suprise, they were much improved to the first ones I tried.

Since then as the enamels were used up they would be replaced with the acrylics unless I absolutely had to have enamels.

Noto long ago I went to the LHS and bought some paint, got home and found that I had grabbed enamels...I really didnt want to take them back...I wound up taking them back and exchanging for acrylics.

So as I said, just my preferance,,,

Doug

Cool jugjunkie!!! Cant wait to see some paint bubba!!!

Joe Rix - thanks Joe I use a pretty strong ultra fine invisible mending thread which allows me install the antenna early in the build - I'm just a little more careful when painting but i'm used to it now so no probs.

Greg- for good quality razor saws, check out the JLC saw-available at umm-usa.com, or RB productions for super small blades that chuck in a exacto handle. They come on a stainless pe fret. For the Hasegawa or Tamiya ones, you need to search ebay.

Doug, thank you VERY much for that, and don't you dare apologise for being long-winded! It just isn't possible to answer some questions in a sentence or two. And mine was definitely one of them.

Thanks for reminding me yet again about patience, and waiting for dry between coats. I continue to struggle with that. This borders on insanity on my part, I know I have to slow down. Small improvements though, I think.

Really appreciate your commentary on your take on acrylics, even if we've covered it before and it slipped my mind. You accomplished some very intricate work on the finish of this build (yet again, really). I just about had myself convinced to take the enamel plunge for certain exterior spraying, I'd really rather not, my inventory of acrylics is already ridiculous for one reason. Will keep plugging along!!

Joe, your are right, being familiar with what something really looks like  helps to re-create realism for sure.  I spent some time around aircraft powerplants in the maintenance hangers, but I didn't pay a lot of attention. Guess I didn't pay attention to details, just liked to fly them. :)

Hey Greg, Not a problem, Never a problem.... Yeah the thin coats are a bit frustrating cuz they dont lay down a coating you can see at first, and several coats are required just to begin to see the results. Thats why I go thin like that, so as to have the graduated (in density) appearance that such a stain would have. Exhaust soot would not have a "hard line"pattern, and would graduate from denser to almost un noticable.

Just remember to be patient and build up little at a time, remembering to dry in between coats with a hair drier if desired, that will speed up the process and allow you to see errors or progress as you go coat by coat.

As far as enamels go... Rarely do I ever use enamels any more, and none were used on this build, The reason is that with todays new and improved acrylics they smell, clean, adjust, and apply better IMO then enamels. They even have acrylics now for automotive applications that are way easier to apply then enamels or urithanes .

I have some acrylic candy shades that I use to do Motorcycle designs like tanks and such that cant be beat and are MUCH easier to use then any enamel I've ever tried. That includes lacquers which at one time was the best paint on the market.

Sorry I'm getting long winded again, but the only non acrylics I use any more are the occasional artist oils mixed (Thinned) with paint thinner, or the lacquer "metalizing" paints from Model Master. Alot of the specialty paints (other then RLM and such colors) I use I order from tcpglobal.com . They are the best source for House of Color brand paints. There is no custom paint that you could ever think of that they couldn't supply. enamel, lacquer, urethanes, and yes acrylics.

Doug

Joe Rix:Thanks buddy!! I had a lot of fun building this engine up. I'll work on that tute!!!

Handi:I know the feeling about the "powers that be". Had I not got this update kit on sale I might not have gotten it. I still caught a little flak over it anyway. Thanks for the good word!

Greg:Thank you for your supportive comments as well. I think sometimes that being an automotive technician by trade has helped me in the powerplant build ups. P.S. You should really give one of these things a shot. It will definitely test and thus improve your creativeness. Plus they look sweet when they "fall together" like this one has so far.