Canadian GB

Where'd SubRevolution go? I've got some Canadian decal goodness for him!

VanceCrozier

Where'd SubRevolution go? I've got some Canadian decal goodness for him!

hmmmm he's been quiet for about a week.......

I've started filling, so this weekend I will be sanding the mess I made of applying the putty and priming.

So what markings do you have planned for the Arrow Chris? Sticking with prototypes or some in-service markings?

I'm probably sticking with prototype markings for this one.  

But that might be an interesting idea for the future.  Do up a fantasy build with ordnance and some type of grey paint scheme.

Gap filling, sanding and priming done.

here's arrow beside a CF-18 I'm doing for the 1/72 build.

I have to get some white paint tomorrow then I can start painting.

This is the release of Chippy that I've got. It contains Canadian markings so it should be pretty easy.

Cheers

Tony

Made a start on the Chippy. All of the parts are off the sprue. It looks like the mad Airfix riveter had his wicked way with this one.

The kit looks like a sixties or early seventies Airfix kit. The cockpit it a bit threadbare, and there isn't much aftermarket around. I'll have to figure out how to spruce it up a bit without spending a lifetime on it.

Cheers

Tony

Hi guys,

Finally I have a clear bench and will be starting tonight.  I will be building a Hasegawa 1/48 CF-104 Starfighter.  The kit comes with the Tiger Meet decals but I'm not too keen on them.  I think I will order a set from Belcher Bits and perhaps a recce pod as well.  Other than that it will be OOB.  Anyone have experience with Belcher Bits resin sets?  I like their decals but haven't tried their resin.  Also, are there directions anywhere for posting pictures on this forum?  I will post pics in the next day or so.

Thanks.

Hey Caveman, first you need a image file sharing site i.e. photobucket.

Once you upload, copy the direct link to the image, then come into the thread you want to post to.  Click Use rich formatting, then click on the button for picture (looks like a picture).  Paste and voila.

Canopy is done in its future dip, landing gears are installed and first couple coats of white are on it.

I'm leaning towards a semi-gloss

I have hit a snag on masking the canopy.

It doesn't have any conventional lines so taping it won't work, maybe silly putty?  Afraid of the residue.

I read another review of a similar kit, and the modeller cut out the windows, painted and then was going to add krystal clear later.

They give you so much clear plastic but need so little.

Or do I just keep trimming  tape until it fits.  I figure it'll have no adhesive once I'm done with it.

Chris:  maybe you've seen it, but here's a link to an FSM article about masking with Silly Putty.  It's specific for ships, but might be useful for an aircraft, too.

http://www.finescale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/How%20To/2012%20Update/FSM_JAN2009_52-56.pdf

I haven't used Silly Putty, so I don't know about residue, but I have used poster tack, and that has worked OK.  If residue is left, you just press more tack on top, and usually it all pulls off then.

The problem I've seen with Krystal Klear is that it dries leaving the window with a concave shape to it--not flat. 

Whatever you try, good luck with it.

I thought about the liquid mask but I don't have it.

Putty and blue tack I have so I will give that a shot.

Hi Chris,

I'm not familiar with the canopy on that thing. The way I mask the complex ones is to cut up little tiny squares and triangles from masking tape, then add then like a mosaic to each panel to be masked. They can and should overlap. The only line you need to be good is the masking line.

It's a very easy technique.

Let me know if it helps.

Cheers

Tony

Having arrived home last night, and after a long welcome from the dogs and a little time with the little lady, I unpacked my spitfire set full of goodies.  The cockpit had arrived while I was away, and that was the last part of aftermarket that I had ordered up for the kit.  Laid out is the kit, an engine, cockpit, gun bays, DeHavilland prop / spinner and a radio compartment.  Of course, the Eduard big ed kit, a pair of Master Hispano cannons, stencils and decals, True Details wheels, an extra pair of exhausts just in case I don't like those supplied with the engine and control surfaces. 

Starting to look like a bit of a daunting job, given the short times I get to work on it.  Today's task will be washing all the parts and allowing them to dry. 

In the end, she'll wear a simple mediterannean blue top side and sky under belly, and the markings T.L for George Buerling.  I've got the Vallejo paints already, just a matter of playing with how I want to shade, but that's a while off yet.  I also plan to play with Vallejo's matte and gloss mediums during the paint to see if I can't increase the translucency of the paint.

Wow Andrew you certainly have your work cut out for yourself.

I do, Chris.  The spitfire is a kit I seem to keep revisiting, and each time I get a little more daring in what I alter.  My last one had the brass Hispanos and Eduard's etch, so I figure I have to push myself harder this time.  That's all the fun of it for me, see how far I can go and still pull it off.  

At this point, I've stripped off Tamiya's details from inside the fuselage, dry fit and primed the Aires cockpit and started fitting the wall opposite the radio opening.  It's slow progress, but I want it all to fit up right.  I'm hoping today or tomorrow I can start getting some paint and shade down in the cockpit and inner fuselage walls.  I have a little more fit to do to the pit walls first, but that should be fairly quick.  At least the engine looks like a relatively uncomplicated assembly, it's made by CMK and I've had good luck with their resin in the past.

In the end, I'm hoping this will be the first Spit I've done that I can look at and not find a fault.  It's a big hope, and I'm probably setting myself up for disappointment, but I will try.

A starting point.

I'm still here! In the middle of moving again! My model stuff is sitting on a shelf waiting for me to stick in a mailing box so I can get it early on the other end. That being said, Vance, soon as I have an address again, I will let you know!

Nice work in here so far! I love the Arrow!

since the practice silly putty camo turned out ok on the tamiya JGPZ-IV (see armor forum) and i got tired of looking at shelf queens figured it was time to finish this one. LESSON LEARNED leave all the fiddly stuff such as hatch handles and latches, etc and hand paint the camo on them afterwards. already know enough from past ecperience that mirrors go on after weathering but i broke the driver's protector wire grabber thingie (that's the technical term). easy enough to fix.

using tamiya acrylics on this one and may try airbrushing the dirt and dust.

Wayne: your Grizzly's looking good!  But all that stuff on it reminds me of Ghostbusters......

AndrewW

Having arrived home last night, and after a long welcome from the dogs and a little time with the little lady, I unpacked my spitfire set full of goodies.  The cockpit had arrived while I was away, and that was the last part of aftermarket that I had ordered up for the kit.  Laid out is the kit, an engine, cockpit, gun bays, DeHavilland prop / spinner and a radio compartment.  Of course, the Eduard big ed kit, a pair of Master Hispano cannons, stencils and decals, True Details wheels, an extra pair of exhausts just in case I don't like those supplied with the engine and control surfaces. 

Starting to look like a bit of a daunting job, given the short times I get to work on it.  Today's task will be washing all the parts and allowing them to dry. 

In the end, she'll wear a simple mediterannean blue top side and sky under belly, and the markings T.L for George Buerling.  I've got the Vallejo paints already, just a matter of playing with how I want to shade, but that's a while off yet.  I also plan to play with Vallejo's matte and gloss mediums during the paint to see if I can't increase the translucency of the paint.

Quite the inventory for that kit - can't wait to see you put all those goodies together! Buzz Beurling's markings?

Wayne, have you had any problems masking with Silly Putty?  I've used poster tack without problems, but someone on another forum (not FSM) was complaining that Silly Putty sticks ferociously and is hard to remove.

I recently bought some Silly Putty, but haven't used it yet, so I was wondering if there really are issues.

Vance,

I'm hoping I can do it all justice, and yes, Buzz's markings.

Checkmate,

I've used silly putty quite a bit, and I will say that on flat surfaces it works very well.  In a corner it can get stuck in there a bit, but nothing some picking at it with a toothpick won't solve.  It often does give a soft demarcation, I've found.  I've never had it react with acrylics, though I've not tried it with enamels.  

hey checkmateking

this is my 3rd silly putty and each time gets better. first time i had trouble with it sticking but i wasn't rolling it in my hands to warm it up a bit (WRC-12 in armor forum). second time i didn't get the edges completely burnished so had some ridges. (JGPZ-IV in armor forum). this time i covered too much area but the LEASSON LEARNED is don't put the roll on the camo line but back a little so when flattening it the edge comes to the line and not past the line.

i had no problem with it not sticking, except to each other. used 3 eggs on this one. good to have scissors nearby to cut it if it sticks together. pulling it apart doesn't work. also some sharp edges may wear through with handling so as you burnish the edges (i used a popsickle stick) you may have to add a little more. in my case, turret ring on hull and turret sight box edge. also don't put puttied turret on puttied hull to make sure the pattern matches. put some wax paper between or you will start pulling putty off.

after drying remove it gently. i use a toothpick and was real careful around hatch handles and latches. sometimes a little sticks in grooves but, as mentioned, it's easy to remove. i baked the paint under a 100W incandescent space heater (ie light bulb) and had no problem with removing the putty.

the camo on this is a little thin but it's a lesson learned and i am not going to go back and add more. i have a JGSDF TYPE 96B IFV 8x8 ready to mask and camo so i will take lessons learned from this to that. forgot i had to thin tamiya acrylics A LOT more than MMA or POLYSCALE so clogged the airbrush the first go round.

Looking good Wayne!

Wayne that camo looks great!

I used the silly putty on an M109 I did and had no issues with it.

thank you

more WIP. i broke half of the driver's brush guard off yesterday. today i managed to break the other half off. fortunately o have the folded down one i can trim up and use. all the fiddly stuff (mirrors/headlights are done but won't go on until after weathering. may get decals on tonight and dullcoat everything but, since the new and last season of BURN NOTICE starts tonight, maybe not. vision blocks are tamiya clear green. hopefully they will tone down a bit with dullcoat