OFFICAL NATURAL METAL FINISH GB V (2013-2014)

Tug, no worries mate! I always learn from who ever I can :-)

The only reason I mention gloss black is that I used the Alclad gloss black primer with pollished allu and it gave a total "wrong " effect. I learned that  I needed to sand (using micromesh) the primer to get it smooth enough for the alclad.

On this mig I do not want to try and sand it as the wing fences ect might get in the way.

I have not experimented with using grey as a basecoat yet. I plan to use airframe allu on it.

Will the same "depth" look be achieved using a non black primer? I usually do a coat of alclad, then mask off an few pannels and continue with the same shade of alclad to give slight different look to it. Does a grey base also male the alclad go "lighter" as more coats are applied?

Thanx

Theuns

Hi Guy's - last couple of pics that more or less finalises the preparation work....

I used some plastic tube and 2mm ali rod for the tailplane fixing which will allow positionable surfaces. The rod fixed point is reinforced with plastic angle strip

That marginal wing fixing - the same as on the 1/48 version is reinforced with another 2mm rod going through the fuse and into the wings as far as possible. The rod position is also reinforced with plastic angle within the wing. The rod will be fixed to the fuse - the wings sliding on

I'm hoping to start painting today and begin the build 

'Theuns'  - that's a nice start on the Mig but would you mind if I made a comment?

I do hope you won't see this as 'Teaching Granny' here but I've noticed more than the odd reference for the need to put 'Alclad' over a 'gloss black undercoat'. Though I'm sure many are aware that it's not necessary there appears to be a misconception with quite a few that it is the only way 'Alclad' per se should be applied. From what I was told at an early stage in using it In actual fact that is not the case.

When I did my first model in NMF I bought Alclad direct from the main UK manufacturer who traded at that time close to where I live. It was at this point I was told by the owner that using a gloss black undercoat is only necessary in some very particular cases - namely Chrome, Stainless Steel, and Highly Polished Aluminium and only then if you want to achieve the effect of the individual paint. Chome  for instance can just as easily be used over grey primer just don't expect a 'Chrome' finish. This does not apply to all the other 'silvers' in the range which incidentally, for some technical reason due to the powders used, have a different binder to the three mentioned above. They work just as well over grey or any other colour (matt) primer

I've used Alclad2 now for several NMF models - always applying it over the Alclad Grey Micro Primer with total success. I've never experienced paint pull off from masking removal nor the 'powdery' finish which rubs off on the fingers that some have. I believe that anomaly is caused by too high pressure the paint drying before it hits the surface. I've also used it over gloss black where that chrome effect was required (oleo's) though I try to avoid this where possible as it takes far to long to dry and I'm not that patient!

Hope you won't see this as poking my oar in on such a knowledge base as this but I have heard this said so often - the 'apparent' need to paint everything gloss black often putting people off using this very effective product.

For me - the most important thing in achieving a good NMF finish is to smooth every coat, beginning with the plastic surface itself, with MicroMesh 6000 cloth. 'Silver' of any shade, as I'm sure most  are aware, is notorious for showing up the slightest imperfection.

As said hope you don't mind that input - now wheres that airbrush

Regards - Tug

Here is the result of a few hour's work. It is the new tool 1/72 Airfix MiG 15. 

Cockpit detail it very limited but with the shut canopy I am not to worried about it. Sofar the fit is OK, I just want to get the anhedral of the wings correct, the kit seems lacking there.

It will be Alclad airframe allu over tamiya gloss black enamel. I have head better results with this than with the alclad gloss primer.

Still a tossup between using the Russian or Korean decals.......

And to you to Clemens - Thanks to this GB I look forward to the New Year with renewed vigour.

Enjoy your break - Tug

It is my joy and duty as this GBs host to wish all of you a very merry Christmas! I hope you're all having a great time with your loved ones! You are truly a great group of modellers and it is an honor to be hosting this group build!

"Frohe Weihnachten" from Austria!

Looking great, Tug! those Aires sets are some stunning pieces of art indeed. I have their Flanker cockpit for my big Trumpy Su-27in my AM box and it looks awesome. One day I'll put my man-pants on and build that beast

Hi  Guys,

Glad that was of use 'bv' - it's quite a reasonable way of making masks providing there are not too many varying curves - then it's down to how steady a hand you have.

Perhaps I should have pointed out, as it isn't quite clear, that the masking tape is laid over the drawn design first, the outlines cut out using the drawing beneath as a guide and the top layer of tape laid over before removing. Removing is a gentle process, peeling both tapes back on themselves and aiding the cut out part of the mask to remain in situ with something like a scalpel tip or toothpick.

Had a good session today and got most of the trimming of the kit and resin out of the way to the stage where painting of the resin parts can begin before a final fine tuning as they are finally assembled. Here are a few pics of the current situation.....

The exhaust is temp taped together and front and rear support established. The  'fixed' tailplane slots have been filled with Miliput. They will be drilled later for tubes to take rods embedded in the tailplanes to allow positioning.

The main undercarriage bay is a very good fit considering quite a lot of plastic has to be trimmed away. I used a rule to define the upper edge so as not to take this too far though it is actually hidden by the wing section from the top

Little blocks of plastic section are glued in to help re-locate the bay after painting.

Cockpit and front U/C bay also went in without too much hassle - steady removal of small amounts of plastic and/or resin and constant checking is in order for good fits - I've never had a bad fit with anything 'Aires' as yet. Incidentally it's a stunning cockpit rendition - can't wait to paint it - especially the seat 

Finally the wing part of the resin main U/C bay. Having just praised Aires, despite thinning these down until light could be seen through the resin, the wing either side just won't quite close. The top wing would need more thinning but I would rather leave as is - it will be totally hidden once the wing is installed. The 'wire' is 1/16 dia aluminium glued to the top wing held against something flat. This helps any slight curve straighten out when gluing top and lower surfaces.

Well, that's current state of play - next time should see some paint on. Back soon then

Regards - Tug

Tug, I gotta say...I felt my hand reaching up to face plant against my forehead as I was reading this.  It makes a lotta sense.  I'm still not sure how I didn't come up with something closer to this myself. lol  I'll definitely be giving this a try next time. =]

Hi Guy's

There's some nice looking work gathering here 

I've had a good days modelling still fettling plastic and fitting the resin cockpit and wing U/C bays on the Hun. It's all coming along very well so far with no real fit problems so am well pleased. I'll take a couple of pics a bit later. 

Can I make a comment on making your own stencils regarding the registering? I used to cut my own by hand before getting the Robo-Cut and solved this problem by 'building the stencil up' off the work and on a smooth background - either drawing it out to size on something like white faced particle board or placing a print out under some thin clear plastic.

For stars and bars make a stencil for the white background first and very slightly undersized to the finished outline then remove and place on some of that sticky label backing paper for the moment. To help handling it's best to keep the inner, removable, area in place at this stage by overlaying another piece of masking tape/ masking film before removing both layers from the cutting board.

Now cut another mask for the blue areas this time to the true lines and lay another piece of tape over it again before carefully removing it and storing on the backing paper.  Still keeping both layers together set the first mask into position on the model and gently remove the holding tape then 'weed' the inner areas to be painted white. Once dry remove the mask completely  (give the area a gentle rub with Micro Mesh 6000) and set the second mask over the white area ensuring that the outline is outside the white all round. Gently remove the top tape, then weed as before leaving the bars and star and paint the blue. If you need red bars then mask up with tape separately to put these in afterward.

Yes it is a bit time consuming but short of a vinyl cutter it's well worth the effort to get painted insignia if the aircraft is weathered to any degree.

Sorry I don't have any pics of this but I think you'll see what I mean. BTW I used the 40mm Tamiya tape to create such masks.

Hope that helps someone

regards - Tug

Here's a few examples:

2013-05-21 16.09.52 by brittvallot, on Flickr

2013-06-26 13.10.33 by brittvallot, on Flickr

2013-07-21 16.01.05 by brittvallot, on Flickr

2013-01-23 13.24.01 by brittvallot, on Flickr

2013-02-01 13.21.17 by brittvallot, on Flickr

Here on Boyington's corsair you see part of the upper circle looks off.  This was done according to photos I worked off of to get all of the weathering right from the leaky fuel tank.  I noticed when they repainted this corsair for Boyington to use how they were off a bit on the insignia.  I wanted to repeat this of course, but I felt it was important to note here in this instance.  I'm real happy with tackling it this way, and I always enjoy paying it forward.  =]   Hope that's of some help.

Big Blue:  I know trying to get that insignia to register properly can be quite difficult!!  I still don't feel comfortable masking and painting it in two parts.  The solution I currently use for this I actually got from my buddy who's in graphic design.  He mentioned to just cut out the stars and bars on the decal for the kit.  "How beautifully simple!!" I thought.  Just cut out the decals and slide them on.  No more worries about having a mis-register.  This way I can still paint the dark blue field and fade it however I like and polish it off with sharp, clean decals to fit on there.  Any stark white you want to take off can be done with some weathering.  Simple.  =]

Give it a try.

Wow, lots of great work has been put up since I last posted!  Inspiring stuff. 

I've been plugging away and made some progress on my build.  First, I masked off and finished painting the stripes on the tail and rudder:

My technique improved since I painted the horizontal stabilizers, and I'm happy with the results.  Inspired by successfully eliminating the need for one set of decals, I spent a large chunk of my modeling time this week trying to perfect a technique for painting the national insignias.  I fired up my vector art program on my computer, and created the stars and bars.  From there, I tried a number of different ideas for turning it into a usable stencil (my best efforts involved clear frisket film placed over the printed insignias and cut).  Unfortunately, while a number of the test attempts were close... none were good enough for me to attempt it on my P-51.  This image shows a few of the typical issues:

Other than that, I made some more progress on the detail parts, including oil washes, foil for the oleos on the landing struts, and an actuator for the coolant radiator exhaust door made from aluminum tubing.  I also added a few more layers to the exhaust pipes:

(the contrast between the foil and the painted parts is greater that it looks in this picture)

(glue needs to be dull-coated and dirtied up a bit)

I think I am done with basic painting, and am ready to move on to decals and weathering.  Now that I have moved on from working on painting my insignias, I hope to make some progress soon.

Thanks to all for sharing your inspiring work.

She's looking great, Tony!

Talent: Sorry, I kinda mixed things up. I changed it for you!

Click community settings  look for the signiture box and paste a link in the box just the same way you post normal pics ( you will have to save it on the flikr, photobucket or whatever you use first). Try and keep it small, i think mine are about 200-250 pixels wide.

on a similar vein- Taxtp, how do yiu create and post the gif in your sig?

Hey Tony that is one good looking Sabre you got there mate!

Thanx SS I will start on the MiG soon. Pix to follow.

Can someone please tell me how to put those cool GB badges on my signature?

Thanx

Theuns

Nice one Tony!

I just realised after polishing up the primer that i forgot to put the quickboost airscoops on the damn thing . I really must have done something bad in a past life to deserve this.

Shattensparten - i also just realised that my completed build on the front page has been tagged as the Aeromaseter MF when it is actually the Academy PF, I am still building the mf 

Here are some completed photos of my F-86F SAbre. It's the Academy kit, with Microscale and Academy decals. Annoyingly, I had to pinch the U.S. Air Force decals from another Microscale sheet, as they weren't included on with sheet.

I'm sure I took some photos throught the decalling and finishing process, but when I downloaded from the camera, they were not there. Maybe one of the family members has been using it.

The Microscale decals were very delicate, and wanted to break. I'll coat them if I do any more aircraft from that sheet. I gave it two coats of Alclad's gloss varnish, but had three decals lift off, even after that, so for some reason, decal adhesion was a problem on this model. The decals that lifted were a combination of the Academy and Microscale decals. Even more annoyingly, I had to use even more U.S. Air Force decals from my F-101 sheet.. 5 days later, the varnish still hasa slight tackiness, even though it doesn't take fingerprints. I've read about thisoccurring to others with their gloss black primer.

I've lost the front undercarriage bay door, but I'll post it as complete whilst I sort out another one.

This is my first NMF model for many years, and now I feel that it's achievable, so thank you Clemens for hosting this GB, and giving me that opportunity.

Cheers

Tony

Sure! It's nice to have you back! I put 2 personal badges for you on the front page if you want to add one to your signature...

Hey SS.

May I come play with a 1/72 Airfix MiG 15 in North Korean NMF?

Theuns

TUG

A couple of questions 'bv',  you said - ''Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.'' What's the Detailer please?

Ha! No, no, no.  All I meant was how accomplished you already seemed to be for being brand new to this site.  I'm still new my own self and I'm still picking up things from others here and there.  But when somebody says they're brand new...you certainly don't click on their first post and expect to see your crusader. ;) Almost makes me want to jump up to 1:32 so I can add more to what I'm doing. =]

But as for the detailer, here's a link:  http://www.thedetailer.net/

It's a water based wash that can go on top of anything.  It wont harm your surface no matter what you're working with.  So long as you've sealed it first of course.  It's a little different from other things I've used in the past as far as how it goes down and works over everything, but if you don't like what you did...wipe it off!  It's very forgiving.  I did my oil stain about 10-12 times before I could get it the way I wanted it.   The guy that had the Phantom as the main icon for this site posted about it in a forum.  He was doing the new 1:32 mustang from Tamiya and spoke about it.  He posts as Chuck(something or other).  He's pretty sharp.  Then I saw Lawdog post about it on one of his recent builds so I thought I'd try it out. It comes in a variety of colors.  I picked up black, brown, and rust.  between those three I feel I can make whatever dirt/grime/grease/oil out of it and well, rust is rust. =]

And thanks about the die press.  Wish I'd have thought of that!  Soon as we finish building our house, I'll have some space in the back where all my tools can go.  Then they won't be in the back of my truck. lol  Perhaps then I'll have more bright ideas like that one. 

Ramon: Great start! Boy, this is going to be a damn good build! I said a few words about your Crusader already and I can't emphasize this enough: She looks freakin' amazing!

Regarding your question: BV is referring to "The Detailer Wash" AFAIK.

Talent: Yeah, da man is back with another one! I can't wait to see more!

BV: You're really bringing this one to life! That's some lovely looking weathering!

Hi guys

A couple of questions 'bv',  you said - ''Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.'' What's the Detailer please?

You also said - "And Tug...who are you kidding?'' - Oh dear,  what have I said - nothing wrong or controversial I hope - that's not me!

I used a small punch and die to create the tiny discs. I made the tool myself using the drills themselves (reversed) as the punches. It's the same format as those commercial ones but all steel. Usually I just punch out what I need by striking the drill with a small piece of brass as a ''hammer'. On the Crusader, seeing as I needed so many I set the drill in my drill press and clamped the die over a block with a hole in it to catch the punchings. The drill was used to punch, the strip pushed through after each punching for the next. I used two thicknesses so 'colour' coded one by marking the plasticard with a highlighter pen.

Hope that help's 'bv' - BTW - you are quite right - being retired does help 

Kind Regards - Ramon

Glad to see everyone still having fun.

although i finished the PF i am determined to finish the damn MF too. had a big mishap resulting in a wing  and a rear stab breaking off  grrrrrrrr.. this plane hates me.

still doing bits as and when i find the will.

DSC02988 by omgpainful, on Flickr

thats just a funny reflection on the blue bit. now need to mask off the spine and tail and do the gloss black base.

Oh!  And Tug...who are you kidding?  I just peaked at your post on the Crusader I think it was you just finished.  Holy HELL that's an insane amount of detail!! =]  I would literally have to be retired to pull something like that off.  I wanted to ask you something about it actually...the .10 size "rivets or nuts" you punched out...what was your method for doing so?  I've considered how I might accomplish something similar for a 1:48 scale, but to repeat it quickly and consistently....  I'm not convinced I have the tools for the job currently.  I'm sure there's an easier way.

I'm starting the weathering on this mustang.  Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.  Really like it so far.  It's also amazing how stupid I feel by being so fascinated and entertained at the beauty of something like this coming together.  "Making oil look like oil leaking out and sweeping over the fuselage of a plane..." I feel so ridiculous!  =P

But here's one thing I fooled with and I'm pretty happy with the results.  Of course I have no photos of this side of the aircraft, so I took some liberty with how much to put down.  I studied quite a few photos from the time to see the physics of what's going on here.  Gave it my best.  Here: 

image by brittvallot, on Flickr

image by brittvallot, on Flickr

I didn't go crazy with it.  Harry Crim looks like a pretty stand up guy.  I'm sure he took care of his girl.  So I'm just going to assume he kept her fairly tidy.  =]

Hi Guy's

Just to say that despite the inevitable distractions that occur at this time of the year I have found time to make a tentative start...

First off though I bought this kit at the recent Scale Model World event at Telford. It was the Thunderbirds version which I got, from a trader, for £45. I had no intention of doing it as a T'Bird but thought it would be the same kit as the standard D, just different decals. I was a little disappointed to find it in the glaring white - not much of a problem I agree but much more disappointed to realise there are no fuel tanks/pylons etc. included which is. Given that it's list price is identical seems like you're paying a lot for some fancy decals. That's not a whinge though seeing as I paid well under half price for it. Ah well 'You win some .....'

As you can see I managed to get that Aires nose wheel bay in without too much problem - that's only dry fitted BTW

 and have had a go at the nozzle too ...

I cut the main tube in two so as to be able to make it easier to paint the inside - it was cut at the transition of the convoluted portion so as to disguise the join once assembled.

There are a few more pics here -https://picasaweb.google.com/Tug423/F100ModelBuild#5959233872823083298

where I'll keep an image log of the build - I'll only post pics of significant stages on here.

Well that's my start - more later in due course

Regards - Tug

Hi 'bv'

Glad you liked the pics - doing it certainly fired me up into continuing in this great hobby despite other distractions from time to time. . I was totally unaware at that time of the immense leap forward of the hobby from doing it previously in the seventies so what an eye opener.  I've thoroughly enjoyed every build since.

Well I got to 'Hannants' today and bought my cockpit and wheelbay for the Hun and came home and made a start... only to hit the first hurdle - I've mislaid the kit instructions. My long suffering wife and I have looked everywhere, just everywhere, to no avail. I know I had them as I took them out to study them but I've either put them 'somewhere safe' or have thrown them out.

All is not quite lost as I have those from the 1/48 kit as a guide and I've contacted a friend who runs the IPMS instruction bank who thinks he may have a copy.

The Aires cockpit lives up to expectation as always - a couple of days preparation should see some painting begin - can't wait - more later 

regards - Tug

Tug.  Just peeked at your Lancaster bomber.  Real nice things there.  I love the fact that you're taking a unique moment of history that stands out a bit and allowing us all to see. =]

Hi again ,

Just realised I didn't mention the scale - it's the Trumpeter 1/32 F100D.

Oh yes, something else as well - re your kind remarks regarding the Crusader. It's nice of you to say so but I can see only too well there are some very accomplished modellers on here producing some stunning models - I'm under no illusions,  just really pleased to be part of it.

Regards - Tug

Hi - Really pleased to hear this 'Sc Sp' - I have got the kit on the bench today and the box opened - tomorrow I shall visit Hannant's and get an Aires cockpit and wheel bay - 'I'm in' as they say and looking forward to participating - will post as soon as there's something to show.

Thanks guys - Tug