Gamera

Looks good Bish! I've used filters to tone down the difference between multiple camo colours like on NATO vehicles. I'm assuming you did this here to blend in the decals and make them appear sun faded- looks good!

Yes, yes of course, that was the reason I used them, well spotted.

To be honest, I had not thought about that part of it and the effect it would have. But now you mention it.

Looks good Bish! I've used filters to tone down the difference between multiple camo colours like on NATO vehicles. I'm assuming you did this here to blend in the decals and make them appear sun faded- looks good!

Thanks guys.

Mike, yes, the effect is subtle. The two colours were quite close anyway. I had only use these filters on a single colour scheme before now. I have done dot filtering and things like that on European camo and of course that gives very different results.

I do actually like the look, its just not what I was expecting from what I have read, the way some go on, I was expecting the tank to drive off the bench all by itself.

Bish: the Pz3 looks great!

Bish - Iooking good, I like it.

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Here's Mig Jemenze explanation for filter use:

http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm

Thunderbolt does make a good point about why not just mix a proper base colour at the start instead adding a filter afterwards. 

regards,

Jack

Looking great, Bish! I was wondering about the filter method, and the effect it would have, as the AK shade I picked up by RAL number is certainly not the colour I want the thing to be, and a "filter" is supposed to change it -- it looks like the effect is particularly subtle. Meh -- I'll mix the shade, as I always meant to!

M/TB379

Finally got a bit done and able to do an up date. After the decals, I did some dry brushing followed by AK's filter followed by their weathering wash, both for DAK vehicles.

I used this filter on the 88 I did early this year, and now as then, I am still not sure I see the purpose of filters. Aside from making the two colours harder to distinguish, I can't see what else it has done. Or maybe its just me.

Well, here's where I am at.

That's all for now. 

Thanks Cliff, that is a good idea if all else fails. It's pretty messed up.

Bob & Dan: Nice looking work guys!

Eric: You can't 'cheat' and cover it with storage- some may frown on it but I've found slapping a stored tarp or camo net over the problem is a quick fix.

Good to see you back Bob.

I ran into a bit of a problem. I was working on the turret when i noticed a piece of the rear deck that was warped and broken. Not sure if I can fix it. I might have to order a replacement part.

Jack-Not so much pre-shading as overspray-wanted to make sure that the chassis was black so anything not OD wouldn't stand out.  I pretty much assembled everything this time prior to painting-usually I would have painted the chassis components first then assembled.  I'll do a light mask before priming the body with grey.

All of the pics I have seen look like the yellow paint was added with a brush-I'll try to find time to post one later this pm.

Jack, Used a thinned Tamiya Color Clear Green (X-25). Armor86

Dan - lookin great, did you add a clear colour to those periscope glass?

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Bob - interesting primer approach to the LRDG jeep, preshading I take it?

Good question about the Lend Lease vehicles.  I have seen documented evidence for Grant tanks ordered in late 1941, specified to be factory painted with US Coronado Tan -  but can't say with certainty if any jeeps were also ordered with a desert colour.  

Referring to period photos, I'd say look for the white serial number.  My conclusion would be if this marking can't be found, or is present with a dark background (like it was masked), then in all likelihood was redone with British paint after being delivered in olive.

regards,

Jack

Nice work Tojo - Update on Panzer IV 'D' Dragon 6779 - lower hull complete and testing - dry fitting lower & upper hull and fenders before installing interior details. The kit can have just about every hatch & door open. Photos

Verlinden Productions Interior Detail Set - Washed resin parts and now ready to begin fitting crew compartment, engine, transmission, ctc. Armor86

Hey all-been lurking for quite a while-admiring the great work being produced.

I have deviated from my intended build-Dragon Sherman Mk. II-I picked up a Tamiya SAS Jeep-thought something quick & easy might help me get back into the groove-new job, new city/state, lack of my 'man cave'....anyway, I was able to get a lot done over the last few days-I should have posted pics sooner, but just didn't-sorry.

Anyway, here is the SAS Jeep to date.  I primed the chassis with black primer, along with other components.  I plan on priming the upper surfaces with grey before putting down the base coat....which leads me to a question for the resident experts-since the Jeep would have been Lend/Lease, should the base coat be OD and then the Jeeps would have been painted yellow in the field?  Based on the pics I've found, that looks to be the case, but I want to get some second opinions. 

This is an old kit-probably not as nice as the new Dragon kit, but it is an easy build with room for some scratch building & extra detailing.

I added some racks for the jerry cans and will need to build a mount for one of the machine guns.

Giving consideration to building a Dragon Sherman M4 for this GB also-think I'll stay away from the Mk II for now-a little too much PE to make it enjoyable.

Tojo- she does look good indeed!

Yes, the progress on that Semovente is looking really nice.

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I'm hoping to get back to my Italian entry within the next week.

regards,

Jack

Gamera, thank you for the painting information on your Crusader. It looks real good to me!

Tojo, your Semovente is really turning out great! The tracks & interior are beautiful!

Hey thanks guys!

SP: I initially was going to leave some bronze green under the fenders and the insides of the wheels etc but I really didn't like how it worked out. So I ended up going with Tamiya Earth as a primer coat with pre-shading/ colour modulation of Dark Yellow I think it is XF-60 anyway for the regular paint. I ended up with the top upper shading of Buff and then Deck Tan.

Jack: Not sure about the idlers but I had a bear of a time getting the front mud guards to fit. Maybe I should have sanded down the idlers some but it seems just like poor fit of the mud guard parts. It was really the only thing on the kit I had issues with, great fit on everything else. I did leave off two tow cables since I couldn't figure out how they were supposed to fit though.

Wayne: Lol, I know what you mean! I pressed the model into the plaster as it was setting and then put the sand on so it did cover up some of the sunken areas. But still it fit pretty well, looks like I jogged the model somehow while moving it around during taking the photos and didn't notice.  

waynec

hey bish i like the very subtle camo color. i am going to do that on my libyan BM-21

Ye, I rather like it. This is the scheme introduced in 1942, march I believe, of RAL 8020 with 7027 over the top. Its the first time I have done it and I am rather pleased.

The decals are now on, so doing to do some dry brushing to day and then some more pics.

Love the weathering Cliff. Those bolts and such sure pop out.

Gamera

Thanks guys!!! Although now that I look somehow the model got out of the ruts I made for the tracks, I know I moved the thing around a little but sheeesssshhhhh... 

funny. i did a base for a spanish 8x8 CENTAURO. deeper cuts than your base. i looked at the base, added some rocks to one side of the elevation, painted them etal. looked really nice. dropped the CENTAURO in and IT DIDN'T FIT. the rocks made the path too narrow. fortunately i could use the base for other vehicles.

hey bish i like the very subtle camo color. i am going to do that on my libyan BM-21

Gamara - great job on the Crusader, looks right at home for the desert.

Can't recall  if you had said anything about the front idlers, but did you have any problems fitting them and the tracks into the front mud guards?  I just recently learned the idlers need to be shaved down about 0.5mm for a better fit.  To accommodate this Italeri introduced a step in the forward sections of the fenders, when actually they should be flush along the entire topside length.

regards,

Jack

What color did you use for the base color?

Thanks guys!!! Although now that I look somehow the model got out of the ruts I made for the tracks, I know I moved the thing around a little but sheeesssshhhhh... 

Thanks Eric.

Gamera, stunning looking build there, really nice work on the weathering.

Oh I do like it! Very sharp build there!