O damn that's not good. Give him all our best wishes and thoughts and all our fingers will be crossed for a good recovery.

But good to see he has his priority's right, those models don't build themselves.

But seriously, best wishes for Scott and you all.

Hello, I have some sad news concerning Scott Chasney aka Chazzer. He had broke his neck and has partial paralysis in his left arm. He has very limited use. A neurosurgeon will be operating on him in the next week as the swelling goes down. His prognosis and attitude is good. The Doctors say he "could" regain full use of his arm. As I write this he is with me and wanted to say he is committed to his model, the nut!! Prayers are welcomed and he will write back when he can.

Cindy Chasney his wife

You won't be disappointed with Alpine figures.  Many consider them the best in 1/35, the only complaint being too many releases are German (and seems to be heavy on the SS side at that).  I haven't kept track on every single one of them, but usually they are supplied with two heads, so you have a choice in headgear.  There is a slight savings if purchasing a duel pack instead of just a single figure.

regards,

Jack

I have never tried them myself. In the end I have opted for 1 Alpine, 1 Dougs, 1 MK 35, 1 from a Tristar set I have to get and one from the Dragon set I already have.

Dan: Now that's a heaping helping of road wheels... ouch!

Bish: Those are some nice figures Jack posted. I love the Alpine stuff but generally  I'm too cheap unless I can find them on sale.

It must be a sort of trademark of these then. There is one in this set and there was one in the Panther set.

Great work there Dan, impressive looking interior set. Wil be interesting to see how that's goes in.

Pz IV Ausf 'D' - Using the Tristar Panzer IV Wheel Set - using different hubs from the set and couple from the Dragon kit. Running gear assembled dry fitted and found the Tristar road wheels need to be enlarged to properly fit. Mounted Road Wheels on tooth picks for painting later. Almost ready to install interior set, just about every hatch and access door can be open in the kit, both transmission access and front right/left access panels. Armor86

Bish - Yes I did find one with the Voyager set for the early Tiger I (DAK) Tamiya kit.  Armor86

Well, I am now a bit stuck. Thanks to jacks help, I have decided what figures I will use, but of the 5, I need to order 4, some from outside the UK. And when I went to put the first paint on, I realised I was out, I had used what I had on my big 88. So I need to order some of that as well. And as its a bank holiday weekend, I doubt I will get that until the end of the week. The base itself is just about done, so apart from the tracks and the vehicle tools, theres not much else I can do. So I will put this to one side until the bits I need arrive.

Hi guys -- I just identified some of the items of stowage for my Pz. IV D as belonging to an old Verlinden set, and I just bought it on eBay -- so my stowage load will be closer to Tony Greenland's classic model than I expected!

M/TB379

i continue to look at my truck. i am trying to figure out the best material for the partial rear tarp and the cab tarp. as i already have the bed tarp frames on and they aren't very strong i think both tarps are going to be rolled.

in the meantime and as a teaser i am building the base; homemade cast rocks, plaster of paris, and reptile terrarium sand mixed with some gravel. this is not BEAU GESTE. i am taking detailed pictures, especially the rocks as i am playing quite the artiste with the coloring. will post step by step pics now that i have a backup laptop mit windows 7 so i can more safely research and stream music in the bunker w/o reloading all my software and fighting with the companies over activation AGAIN.

Bish, no problem.

For the difference in material, I think DAK clothing would just look thinner, more wrinkles, but at the same time not as bulky wrinkles, if that makes sense.  In that regards, I think only Alpine figures have captured this.

Every soldier was issued the tropical footwear, as far as I'm aware.  Same reason belts and such were issued in canvas material.

I see the dilemma about using continental uniform figures.  Even ignoring the boot laces and pocket styles, you still have all that gear to remove to make them actual tankers.

regards,

Jack

I have that Dragon set, I was thinking about the figure with the headset and the two in great coats as possable's. I do like those two Alpine figures, I have never tried there before. I have some pics of 15th Pz Div Pz III N crews in early 43 with the scalloped pockets and pleats, I guess guys who have been out there for a while. But I have altered pockets before, so I can do that if I need to. maybe a mix of older guys with a new recruit.

Thanks for those images, theres a few there will work nicely.

Thanks Jack, I was hoping you would step in. The book I have on German army uniforms, the one by Brian Davis, only briefly mentions the Tropical clothing. He doesn't go into detail about the cut. All of the tunics I have seen in Africa seem to have the pleats and scalloped pockets similar to the M36. I just checked some pics and I see what you mean about the open collar, I hadn't spotted that. As for boots, I wasn't sure if the normal leather ankle boots would work. I knew about the full length canvas ones but not the ankle boots,

In regards to the lighter weight material, I wasn't sure if it would be noticeable in this scale, what do you think. The main problem with using European figures is that tank crew tended to wear there own specialist clothing, so I would have to use other figures. I have 2, at a stretch 4 that will work as they are. I was eyeing up an MK 35 figure I liked, he was lifting up a jerry can, I thought that would be ideal. But he is wearing shorts, so the other option is to get him and give him some trousers. I might give that a go and keep the other option as a stand by.

Thanks for the input, plenty to think about. And thanks, I am hoping to get the first coat of paint on today.

Some DAK crew figures to consider:

ALPINE

----------------------------------------------------

DRAGON

-------------------------------------------------

DOUG'S ORIGINAL:

There is a third crew figure for the left side turret, but has shorts (as does the commader, but the legs would be hidden in the vehicle):

As you can see, they all have pleats and scalloped pockets, so that would need addressing if you want a crew that arrived in early 1943.

regards,

Jack

Bish - I'll field your question if i may...

In a pinch, you might get away with painting the regular field grey tunic to make it look tropical.  Though there are some subtle differences, the biggest problem would be the footwear - these were the canvas type, laced up front for both ankle, and the less popular full length boot.  

Anyhow, back to the tunic, the major differences:

-DAK tunics were made to be worn open collared and had fashioned lapels, unlike  the regular field grey tunic  which could be buttoned all the way up.  So that would mean one less button up front.

-the material was lighter, durable cotton material to be more precise.

-the tunic went through three design changes with regards to the pockets: initially the four pockets had pleats and scalloped flaps.  A second pattern arrived in late '42  with no pleats.  In early 1943, the third pattern had straight flaps on the pockets.

I'll post another response for some figure suggestions...

hth

... and btw, nice work on your Pz III thus far.

regards,

Jack

I have a question for those more knowledgeable on German uniforms. I am trying to find figures for my Pz III. Most of the Africa Corps tank crew figures on the market are dressed in shorts and short sleeves, more suitable to the Libyan deserts of Mid 1942. As I am sure most of you know, my vehicle was used in Tunisia in early 43 and the photo's all seem to imply less than hot weather with troops in long trousers and long sleeves. So I am considering the possibility of using figures in European uniforms. From what I can tell, the cut of the Tropical jacket looks the same as the M36 tunic. Aside from the colour and the insignia, does anyone know if there would need to be any other alterations.

O, Gamera, you'll make me blush Thank you.

Dan, ye, all my spares are stored in box's by vehicle type. This is is largely taken from a Stug 3 set, which might explain why so many spares. What got me was their Panther w Pz IV turret set. They was all designed just for that specific kit, but there was still loads of spare.

Have you ever had what looks like a Horse shoe in any of the Voyager sets you used.

Bish - looks good & ready for paint - I have had several extras with aftermarket Voyager PE sets - just store them in the spare parts boxes. I've now organized them in a storage system with other kit parts by vehicle types, comes in handily when rug monster eats a fallen kit part.    I scratch built a jerry can rack with an earlier Pz III Ausf J late Vorpanzer but use extra PE to construct it ... Armor86 

I don't say this to many men Bish but I can't help but admire your magnificent rack...

Bish

It didn't take long, and as i figured as they were made in the field, it didn't need to be to neat.

Exactly- I think we modelers take so much time trying to be precise that we forget that the real thing was often made under hurried conditions where precision & neatness of work were not considerations.

It didn't take long, and as i figured as they were made in the field, it didn't need to be to neat.

Things like that rack are really easy once you figure them out. Just a simple rectangular frame work. A few mm this way... some many mm that way... cut your strips to length and go to work.

Thanks Stik. I seem to have got a bit addicted to scatchbuilding recently. But after the 88, I would have thought I would have had my fill for the year, but I just had to add this.

Oh that looks good Bish! And of course seeing those strips of white styrene for that scratch built Jerry Can rack makes my heart go pitter pat ;-)

Thanks Gamera.

I got the construction finished today. No issues at all with this kit. As for the PE, this is the second Voyager set I have used, and I am seeing a pattern. Lots of left overs, with no indication of what should be left out, so I spend ages checking the instructions to see if I have missed anything. But aside from that, pretty nice. I scratch built a jerry can rack basing it on pics of several vehicles in Africa as I could find one of the vehicle I am doing.

And thatrs it for now. Just after I took this, it went off to the spray booth for a coat of primer. I will be leaving that to dry for a couple of days, in the meantime I can start on the Fruils. 

T-Bolt: Now those look good!!! Guess I'm more partial to the Spit but beautiful work on both.

Bish and Dan: Sharp looking pair of panzers guys! Wonder if they wider tires are the 'pimped' out street version!?! 

Dan, I'd say go with the Tristar set when compared to this period photo, the hubs do stick out:

From what I understand, the rubber width increased in the latter marks, perhaps when the wider track was introduced? 

Perth does have a  Panzer IV Ausf.D Kit Comparison but states both are correct?
In their photo comparison, the respective hubs look almost equal in the amount they protrude, but the Tristar rubber portion does look narrower - again no mention as to which is more accurate:

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/misc/pz4d/pz4d02.htm

regards,

Jack

Yea I'm leaning towards the tristar wheels and may use some of the Dragon hubs. Armor86

I just checked the review on PMMS.

www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/.../tri35014.htm

It doesn't give any comparison on the size of the wheels compared to other brands, which is odd. At first I thought the Tristar hubs look a bit large. But checking some pics of early IV, they look about right, and while it hard to tell comparing a photo on the real thing with the ones you posted, those Dragon wheels look a little thick. From what I can tell, the Dragon ones are out, the Tristar ones look right.