Dan, that's looking really good. I copied your idea for the weld seams on my current build, an 88. I am really pleased with the results. I already have the AK DAK weathering set, filter, wash and streaking grime. I have just ordered the dust effects and pigments. Going to try them out on the 88 first, I have only used a couple of the dust effects and streaking products so far. By the time I get to the Pz III, I should have an idea of what I am doing. I love the results you have got with those builds.

Don - AK Interactive offers numerous products for scale modellers - suggest Google search 'ak interactive' and check them out - the Dust effects / washes is an enamel base product that provides specific washes for modelling. The enamel washes blend easily to achieve many effects such as rust, rain marks, grime, and many others. By using a white spirit 'thinner' you can control the effects or tone down the effects. Apply a light coat over your vehicle and afterwards retouch it with a brush and a little White Spirit. Apply it irregularly trying to let it accumulate in gaps and around the details. Don't need to use their specific thinners. REMEMBER if you are using an enamel product as primary color (Model Master Enamel) you will need to seal it first before applying a wash / weather effect.

Yeah signed up to build an Armor Car (Sd 232) in September on Armorama and have been plugging along. Added some more photo etch and tools to it. Muffler shield installed after painting and rusting the muffler. Primer tight spots and corners and weld seems. Photos below.

AK Interactive Africa Dust Effects is an Dust wash for Africa (AK 022). I have also used both MIG and AK pigments and mix with water and brush it on the vehicle and allow it to dry. Once dry use a stiff brush and remove it until you like the effect. MIG Gulf War Sand (P037) and Light Dust (P027) come close to North Africa dust.  Another brand 'Modelmakerz' pigment powder Dessert Sand and Mustard color. AK also offers one too! To seal them you can use a fixer adhesive. The Panzer III Ausf. J's dusting effects was a combination of washes and pigments. On the Tiger I used a Dark Steel on the Road Wheel's bolts to give it a worn look.

Finish - after dusting with washes and pigments.

Before

Terry, have you tried the popular dot-filter method yet? That would be something to look into.

I almost always paint with Tamiya acrylics and use their primer or Army Painter, either works great but I'll give the 1200 a try. Thanks for the info.

jibber

Did you spray or brush on the 1200?

Yes, sprayed the 1200 from a rattle can.   I think that a lacquer based primer binds better to metal that acrylic, so I prime with either Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya primer before painting with acrylics.  I have used the 500 for gap filling; but usually with a brush, sometimes thinning with a lacquer thinner.  To answer your question, I would think that the 1200 can easily be applied with an airbrush (should be no different that applying via a rattle can; maybe consider thinning with lacquer thinner if necessary) .  I haven't tried airbrushing the 500.

Don

Jibber: Looks cool! I'm still not too good with the whole dust thing so sorry I can't help much there.

Dan: Really nice work! The Friul tracks look super cool there.

jibber

I'll ... re-shoot another set of shots, so please don't use the pics I posted.

Terry

Terry,

There is really no need  to remove the original pics.  Just offering suggestions that might give you alternatives to weathering.  In the end, you will decide what is best for you and your style.  One of the great benefits of this formum is that you will receive feedback from individuals who view your  build from many different perspectives.  Whether you agree or disagree with their comments is up to you. 

Don

jibber

I tried to spread it on then brush it into areas where I think it's most needed. I didn't see until after I took the pics the dusting looked awkward.  

and a perfect example of how to use photographs during a build. i once missed weatering the entire right side of a KV-II turret, no easy feat, until i looked at some pics.  for all of us let's keep in mind zooming in on a picture will ID boggers that are invisible to the naked eye.

Don, love the shading. Did you spray or brush on the 1200? I use the 500 and 1000 for other things, but people here have discussed that Mr Surfacer makes a good primer. Is there an advantage with it and if you did airbrush, did you thin it? With what? I couldn't imagine putting the 1000 through an airbrush, is the 1200 that much thinner?

Tigerman, I couldn't agree more with Jgeratic and pordoi that the weathering on my M3 looks haphazard and not up to my standards. I'll work on the tank and re-shoot another set of shots, so please don't use the pics I posted. It's funny what you see on camera that you miss on the bench. Thank you both for the input.

Terry

I'm at that stage where alot of hours seems to yield little forward progress...  

Finally had some warmer weather in Louisville to let me start to prime the PzIII and  pre-shade...

Actually, I changed my mind and decided to do do a North Afrikan winter camo scheme...  

Also, spent 3 hours last Friday painting these...

Outsides are RAL8020 (or a reasonable facsimile, I hope) and insides (which you can't see ) are red oxide primer.  Lots of recipes online for making red oxide using Tamiya acrylics... I think that mixing 3 parts flat red with one part hull red is a reasonable match, especially over a white primer.

Also worked on the tools and drive train, ...

and finally, the Friul tracks; assembled and primed with Mr. Surfacer 1200.

Next up... the base coat of RAL8020.

Don

jibber:  the camo on the M3 looks fine!  But agree with Jack that the dust application needs to be more uniform.  I have used Tamiya Buff, highly diluted to blend the base camouflage, then use pigments to increase the dust effect to the level that you desire. 

Dan (armor86):  I'm not familiar with the AK product line.  Can you describe what their "dusting effects" and "streaking grime" really are?  The final effects look great!  Also, didn't realize that your 8 rad was just the appetizer to your PzIV ausfD entree.

Jester:  really like the Bison.  Keep up the good work.

Bish:  Even though you must be very busy with other GBs, when are we going to see your contribution? 

Don

I tried to spread it on then brush it into areas where I think it's most needed. I didn't see until after I took the pics the dusting looked awkward.  

Jibber, I like the colours you choose, they fall well within the parameters that Starmer has researched.  The dusting looks a bit haphazard, is that what you are having trouble with?

regards,

Jack

the troops were moved quickly from europe to north africa. since they knew from france and poland about a/c recognition, i think some veteran vehicle commander chatted it up with one of the senior chiefs on the transport and they gave him one. that's how i would write it up.

[/URL[URL=http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/kingtiger11/media/M3%20Grant/DSC00053_zpsd6b73b9c.jpg.html]

A couple shots of my M3 Grant. I always have trouble with coloring and shading, though theres a lot of video and even a few in color, the shades are very hard to determine, anyway, I added a photo of the M3 before shading then afterwards. I hope I got it close.  

Oh somehow I missed your Panzerfunkwagen Jibber, very nice work there! And I'd guess it's certainly possible someone grabbed a naval ensign and tossed it on top there.

Good work all around guys- I'll skip individual comments for fear of leaving someone out!

PS: Tracks are on the Crusader, now to the sand shields. Hopefully photos this weekend. 

Terry, you do whatever you want to. I appreciate your wanting to keep everything accurate as possible. Like Bish said, who knows if there weren't a few of them used in that capacity.

i have had problems with that part on my sIG 33, sFH 18 and 88mm. i left it off the the sIG since it has a shield,  the sFH since it is in travel mode and left it on the 88 because it was in a FLAK role so i didn't have to deprees the barrel. horizontally. i know some of us have problems with that ( i finally broke that habit when i decided the DANA cab would be completely closed up  so i didn't waste any time on it's interior). that was harder than it woild seem and non modelers would not understand why.

BEDFORD 4x4 and 6ib are primed before the snows come in tonight.

Bish -- excellent link to a very useful feature and set of reference pics! I had a look at the Alan kit of the same subject last night -- it's a Russian firm and I've never built anything of theirs before so I wanted to have a look at their engineering, and the quality of the plastic. I was pleasantly surprised on both counts -- the parts look very nice, the detail is perhaps not as sharp as Dragon's would be, but it's not bad, and the plastic reacts very positively with cement. With some dress-ups bits from other sources, it should be a very nice addition to the collection.

The plans have no colour callouts at all -- does anyone have any insights? My impression as that the open fighting compartment would be painted the same colour as the exterior, which would be the early North Africa desert sand-brown -- RAL 8000???

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Here is the offending part!

You can even see where the gears rub against it when you attempt to achieve maximum elevation. At rest though, the base of the cradle hits this piece and that, from what I can see, is what is keeping it from being level.

That's a good ;point, you could be right. Its a review build so a lot could be missing, never thought of that.

I will snap a more clear pic of the offending piece when I get home this evening. This is really bugging me and I wonder if they left a piece off in a hurry to get a sample build together to get that gun at that elevation. Even looking at wbill's blog on this kit over on his site, his doesnt set at 0 either.

Eric, I found this review on missing lynx and one of the pics of the built kit shows the gun at 0 degress.

www.missing-lynx.com/.../dml6440reviewcs_1.html

That's rules that out then. Dragon does have strange ways.

Pretty sure, the piece in I am talking about actually has bolt detail.

Eric, it has been known on some Dragon kits for them to put in a piece of plastic to hold something else in place. I have not seen this myself, but I have seen other not realise and glue this in place, only for it to be pointed out by someone else, who had usually done the same thing.

Are you sure the piece that's stopping the gun isn't one of these.

jibber, I would not say its not possible, just that I have never seen it.

The thing about aerial recognition flags that they need to be quick and easy to identify by aircraft flying at several hundred miles and hour and several thousand feet. The Swastika on the national flag is larger and more central than the battle Flag.

But, as I say, who knows. I will bet someone has a pic of the battle flag being used for this.

Either way, its still a great build.

Tigerman, based on Bish's knowledge in this area, do you want me to swap out the flag for another. It's not that big of a deal and why spend all that time on a project and make a silly mistake like this. Please advise, I want your GB to be the best it can be.

Terry

Dan, first class job on the Tiger. I also use a lot of the AK product line and find them easy to work with and "correctable" if necessary with outstanding results. I'm really looking forward to the finished Rad 8, I think you'll do a great job finishing it up. Love the seams.

Eric the Bison looks awesome, what a beast. Nice clean build, this is another one I can't wait to see it completed.

Great builds here.  

Bish I should have spent more time on the smaller things and choose the right one. I did do a little research checking old photos but usually they're folded or laying on the vehicle and you can't pick up much. Anyway thanks for recommending the site, these are quality flags but I'll be more careful.