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Thanks for the info on the bombs and the feedback on the spats Bish.
Thanks to you too Jim for the "atta boy".
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Awesome work Joe! She looks ready to fly off my screen!
On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk
O ye, and that Stuka looks well nice. Apart from the fact you just had me checking my wheel spats.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
saying I have lost it suggests that I had it in the first place.
For SC 50's, they should be green, I would go for RLM 70. For the SC 500, a lot of what I have read says blue, RLM 65, but most if not all of the pics I have seen they are green. Anything bigger, SC 1000, is blue.
I'm now building the bombs and don't have ANY reference material on german ordnance. What color are the centerline and wing bombs supposed to be? It says flat black on the instruction sheet but I have my reservations about that................
And there you have it folks! He's lost it!
Well guys I'm finally past a part of this build that's been holding me up forever it seems like. I finally installed the "Tyson chicken legs" yesterday. I may have been a little overly concerned with this part but it just seems like a visible seam line here would be like a bloody nose since its right up front to be easily seen. Any ways, here goes:
and the whole view:
1/350 scale, o no no no.
Though I believe revell once did a 720 kit of the carrier Graf Zeppelin, that must have some Stuka's in it.
RigidriderIm Still Amazed At The Work You Can Do On A 72nd...
Looking Good Bish... Im Still Amazed At The Work You Can Do On A 72nd...
When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...
Make Lemonade!
Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...
Glad you clarified that, Bish. I should have known, I suppose, but having never dabbled in the smaller scales (that I recall, anyway), had no point of reference to determine if you were kidding or not.
And that compounded by the fact that some of the outstanding 1/72nd (and smaller) work I've seen around these parts amazes me. IOW, I'm about to the point nothing would surprise me!
Greg Looking good, Kostas! Bish, I can't figure out if you are tongue-in-cheek regarding the 144th instrumentation and seatbelts .....or not. Looks like no detail spared on that Eduard kit. Looking fwd to watching this one.
Looking good, Kostas!
Bish, I can't figure out if you are tongue-in-cheek regarding the 144th instrumentation and seatbelts .....or not.
Looks like no detail spared on that Eduard kit. Looking fwd to watching this one.
Don't worry Greg, I ain't that much of a lunatic. I think I would need the Hubble telescope to be able to detail that cockpit.
Yes Kostas the engine is looking good and not familiar w/that kit and the bomb trapeze setup. In building the Mono version it just glues in place. Of douse, it's been so damn long since I've had the energy or will to get at the bench. Besides, that wonderful greenhouse canopy has me REALLY considering buying a mask (even though they don't make them for the Mono bird)!
Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom. Peace be with you.
On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38
In the Hanger: A bunch of kits
Engine looks good Kostas! I agree with Greg, there's a lot of surface detail on there Bish
I took these yesterday as well but for some reason they would not post. This is the Eduard 144th 87G-2. As you can see, there's no cockpit. That's such a shame as I was really looking forward to 144 seat belts and instruments.
After taking these I got the underside painted RLM 65, so just need to mask up and start painting the top colours.
Looking nice there Kostas, the engine is looking good.
Hi folks
A small update after quite some time.I managed to lose my camera somehow so I apologize for the cell phone pictures. I will make this up ASAP.
After a lot of sanding, filling, smoothing and similar boring procedures, main wings, fuselage and tail joints were left to cool off.
Then the engine compartment was given a little attention. My initial goal was to have all cowling closed so that I and everybody else could enjoy the lovely aerodynamic ugliness of this bird. After (again) A LOT of dry fittings, the cowlings various parts to fuselage fit and overall alignment was proven to be . I simply regard it as unacceptable! Considering the options (even making a crashed stuka diorama with the front section badly shaken and ripped up) I decided to simply display the engine in full view. Engine parts were assembled, painted, etc. Italeri's solution with the rubber hose simply sucks and please do not cut the various sections of piping in the dimensions of the instruction sheet, they are simply given randomly. Another technical issue was that, with the cowlings open, where in the will someone attach the bomb trapeze (part 32 of the sheet, see photo). Having no photo reference from this specific point of trapeze suspension, I simply used some imagination and common technical sense and added 2 attachment points from styrene sheet and L- shape. If I were to fly the plane, I would trust this would work... The firewall was enhanced with some tubing and cabling and a fist coat of paint was applied. Finally wheels and undercarriage were assembled. I will try to speed up this build now that (hopefully) the tricky parts are almost over. Cheers Kostas
Then the engine compartment was given a little attention. My initial goal was to have all cowling closed so that I and everybody else could enjoy the lovely aerodynamic ugliness of this bird.
After (again) A LOT of dry fittings, the cowlings various parts to fuselage fit and overall alignment was proven to be . I simply regard it as unacceptable!
Considering the options (even making a crashed stuka diorama with the front section badly shaken and ripped up) I decided to simply display the engine in full view.
Engine parts were assembled, painted, etc. Italeri's solution with the rubber hose simply sucks and please do not cut the various sections of piping in the dimensions of the instruction sheet, they are simply given randomly.
Another technical issue was that, with the cowlings open, where in the will someone attach the bomb trapeze (part 32 of the sheet, see photo). Having no photo reference from this specific point of trapeze suspension, I simply used some imagination and common technical sense and added 2 attachment points from styrene sheet and L- shape. If I were to fly the plane, I would trust this would work... The firewall was enhanced with some tubing and cabling and a fist coat of paint was applied. Finally wheels and undercarriage were assembled. I will try to speed up this build now that (hopefully) the tricky parts are almost over. Cheers Kostas
Another technical issue was that, with the cowlings open, where in the will someone attach the bomb trapeze (part 32 of the sheet, see photo).
Having no photo reference from this specific point of trapeze suspension, I simply used some imagination and common technical sense and added 2 attachment points from styrene sheet and L- shape. If I were to fly the plane, I would trust this would work... The firewall was enhanced with some tubing and cabling and a fist coat of paint was applied. Finally wheels and undercarriage were assembled. I will try to speed up this build now that (hopefully) the tricky parts are almost over. Cheers Kostas
Having no photo reference from this specific point of trapeze suspension, I simply used some imagination and common technical sense and added 2 attachment points from styrene sheet and L- shape. If I were to fly the plane, I would trust this would work...
The firewall was enhanced with some tubing and cabling and a fist coat of paint was applied.
Finally wheels and undercarriage were assembled.
I will try to speed up this build now that (hopefully) the tricky parts are almost over. Cheers Kostas
I will try to speed up this build now that (hopefully) the tricky parts are almost over.
Cheers
Kostas
Thnaks guys. I know what you all mean about this scheme.
Bob, yes, this particular aircraft is from 1938. The more familiar 70/71 scheme started to come into use in 1937, but there were some aircraft still carrying this scheme during the Polish campaign.
Great work Bish! I've never seen a scheme like that. Did you say earlier that it was a pre-war scheme?
That is one cool scheme. Excellent work, Bish.
Never seen that one before Bish, SWEET!
Bish, thanks for the footwork on the colors....helps me out too! But I have to say....that paint scheme ROCKS! Awesome job mate!
Eagle90
Isn't it just. I have just been looking at some other kits, namely a couple of Do 17's.
Wicked!!!!
I got the painting finished last night. During my research I came across several photo's on the aircraft I am doing, 52 C24. This showed that the scheme suggested by SH is different to the real aircraft. Upon further searching, I came across another A-2 of the same unit with the code 52 D24. The scheme on this matched that on the SH instructions. So, using the photo's I have of C24, 3 in total, I have tried to replicate the actual scheme. Its been a bit tricky as the top of the wings are not clear to see and its hard to determine the demarcation between the green and brown, so this is a best guess.
The scheme at this period was not as standardised as the later 70/71 scheme. Many aircraft had more of the light grey than this one. I rather like this scheme. I have another A Stuka which will be done in Condor Legion markings which also carries this scheme, but I would also like to do other types in these colours. This period in the lead up to WW2 seems to be often over looked (guilty as charged) so its nice to be able to redress that, if only in a small way.
So here's the pics.
Next up my favourite bit, the decals.
I think that's just the colour of the image. Its still the same 70/71 scheme. I am always wary of those colour plates and try and find a photo of the real thing if possible.
Man Bish, I like that F1+DP scheme. It's out of the ordinary for a Ju-87.
Ajd -- essentially you need to mix Tamiya Acrylics to get RLM shades. XF-22 is not a good match for 02, it's too dark and too green. They sell XF-27 as a match for 70, but it's not -- I add about 10% black, and though the hue seems to be different it is a very pleasing colour.
Search online for Tamiya Acrylics RLM mixing ratios, you'll find plenty of documents and forum posts as modellers share their formulas. The Tamiya recommendations are sometimes very accurate -- but also often not. Their recommendation for mixing RLM 76 is brilliant and I've used it many times, but for other colours, such as 74, 75, 78 and 79, I varied the mix to match my expectations based on photographs, which also took into account other modellers' results.
Cheers, happy mixing,
M/TB379
http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/
Bish, thanks. I was figured xf23 with maybe just alittle white would do rlm 65 justice.. I've also read for rlm 71, that xf 13 (Jap Army green) was a pretty good match. I didn't take much stock in that at first, but the more I look at it, the closer it looks to me.
Just did some digging and came across a painting guide for a Tamiya 87G. The colours they give are XF-23 for RLM 65. XF-27 for RLM 70 and I think its 1 part XF 26 and 2 parts XF 52 for RLM 71.
http://www.model-making.eu/zdjecia/5/9/1/1484_2_tam60735_4.jpg
And just realised your doing a D. Your pit should really be RLM 66. XF-63 should be close enough for that.
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