Mustang Build

Decals and gloss coat on.  The 357th FG decals were a bear.  Anything red or yellow wanted to crack. 

Thanks, Hunter. It's going to take me another day or so (after work) to get the drop tanks on and plumbed.

Larry

lzdaily@comcast.net

Britt, those scratched parts are looking great. Impressive.

After waiting for replacement decals (just to get the "AJ" code letters I messed up), I've made a little progress on my Ding Hao over the last few days. Here are a couple of shots. I still have to stick on a few little fiddly bits and brush paint a few details, but the only major things I have left to do are to add the canopy and the drop tanks.

Best to all,
Larry

 

 

Larry - Beautiful Job! 

bvallot

Hunter, whenever you get done with that Zero you ought to pick you up a kit and join us. =]

 

bvallot & 5-High - 

Thank you for the invite. I have committed myself to another GB (Floats&Boats) with two entries and have my hands full. I am no were near the level to have multiple builds going at once like yourselfs. But I definitely want to be in on a build with you. Again, thank you for the invite.  

No problem MM, you will post it here in the GB as often as you feel there is any progress to show.

For posting the pictures you will need a photo hosting site such as Photobucket, Imageshack, flicker Etc. After uploading your picture on the hosting site, just copy the URL and past it in the "Source" field after clicking on the "Insert/Edit Image" Icon in the tool bar when replying to a post.

I'll get you on the roster and just start when you’re ready.

Steve

a 1/48 revell mustang that i got off ebay cheap. do i just post her or is there somewhere else. i've not done it before but the friendliness here makes me want to participate. What format for picks? how often to post?

modelmaker66

can we still participate?

Plenty of time, 5 months left. Whatcha got?

can we still participate?

That is funny 5. I know how you feel, something just drives you nuts and you gota fix it.

Well guys I've decided I'm not happy with the exhaust fareings on this mustang lll. After all I've done it don't look right eugeniuszs mustang didn't have it and it wouldn't look right ..soooo ...doctor 5 please report to the bench for sergury .

5

GML...for that NMF try tamiya AS-12 bare metal silver .

Izdaily it's looking very good.  I agree with modelcrazy on that .your wait for those decals is soon to pay off ..I say it's a three point landing. 

5-high 

Almost finished with #4 Larry, impressive, most impressive. 

MKelley

Modelcrazy and bvballot thanks for the comments, Groot she has a few warts when you see it close up. Considering how much superglue filler I have used I am not unhappy with the results. I used a rattle can of Krylon metalic silver. I paln on lightly buffing a few panels to give it some variation. 

 

Britt, those scratched parts are looking great. Impressive.

After waiting for replacement decals (just to get the "AJ" code letters I messed up), I've made a little progress on my Ding Hao over the last few days. Here are a couple of shots. I still have to stick on a few little fiddly bits and brush paint a few details, but the only major things I have left to do are to add the canopy and the drop tanks.

Best to all,
Larry

bvallot

Here's just a short post on the radio equipment for the P-51A.  I managed to get this all sorted out last night, but it'll be a few days before I can get this closed up.  I decided I couldn't live without mocking up the radiator as well for these mustangs.  So, I need to get that whipped up as well as the tail wheel.  I caught a small error in scratching out the bottom shelf receivers.  I sawed off the bottom half and fixed them up...simple. The lower shelf is in place and I went ahead and scratched the Dynamotor coder from some sprue and created its place on the shelf.  All of this has a coat of primer on it and has been painted.  All I really need is to complete the wiring and IP for the most part and then put a flat coat to seal and the cockpit will pretty much wrapped up. =]  Very rewarding to tackle this section like this. 

Untitled by Britt Vallot, on Flickr

 

5-high

I'm still wondering about how the aryclic clear will hold up with oils .I'm wondering if I should or could use water based aryclics ie ...tamiya paint in stead. Alcohol will strip the paint as I brush ...what do you recommend 

5

 

That's a great question 5.  Normally, you really shouldn't have any problems from weathering with oil paints.  Most clear coats normally are acrylic in nature. Or at least from what I've seen.  I've been putting a flat laquer coat to seal everything for quite a while and have not had a single problem with it.  So, the short version here is be certain to have a low odor thinner for oil paints.  I've seen where liquin will work too, but this stuff will allow the oil paint some body to it.  Not really what you're looking for here, but for future projects...a little of both could be helpful.  So you stick to a low odor thinner and spread your oil paint washes over a clear coat and you should be fine.  

What I personally do...if I have any doubts about something new...seal everything in a flat coat (I use Alclad's clear flat) and go back over with a clear coat again.  The coats are thin, or should be, so you needn't really worry about how they impact your build.  This will put an extra "layer of defense" between your paint job and your weathering.  I doubt it will be necessary.  If you put the clear coat down well, then it should be sufficient. =]  Keep in mind that this weathering process with oil paints may take some time to dry.  It depends on how thick it is and the humidity where you live.  24 hours ought to be good normally for coats as thin as you'll be putting on.  Once your done with the weathering at that particular stage, put your flat coat down and viola! =]

I can PM you about a more detailed explanation if you'd like.  I try to be considerate of the chatter here on the forum.  =]

The GB still has 5 more months, so there's plenty of time.

Howdy all. Unfortunately I've been set back on my painting by the weather (has been too cold to properly ventilate) but I've been getting to push forward a small bit at a time. Thanx to Brandon's reference pics I was able to conclude that the best skill to go with for my decals would be the 1/72. So I bought set 3 of 6 from theses Blue Nosed Birds of Bodney decal set that I found on eBay.  Each set has decals for 3 different blue nosed variants. This is the set that I bought 

I'll probably end up going with the center set. Also, while looking for these I found a 1/72 Tuskegee Airmen P-51D/Me-262A-1a 2-in-1 kit I might buy. 

Thank you hunter. I think your doing a great job on your zero. .I've been watching your progress . Must say the zero is comeing along great. Bvallots right. After you finish the zero. You should pick up a mustang kit and join us am sure that there's more than enough time to make another one ..I think a pacific theater mustang would look cool next to that zero 

Bvallot. .just now I found time to tackle the dot filter method. .but I'm still wondering about how the aryclic clear will hold up with oils .I'm wondering if I should or could use water based aryclics ie ...tamiya paint in stead. Alcohol will strip the paint as I brush ...what do you recommend 

5

Hunter, whenever you get done with that Zero you ought to pick you up a kit and join us. =]

Thank you 5. All this scratch-building is still a learning process for me. Each time I do something new, I figure out a new trick for getting there. Keeps it interesting. How's the dot weathering coming along? I'm interested in seeing how it came out.

Gentlemen - 

I just got done going through all 41 pages of this thread and I have to say there is a boat load of great talent in this GB. All of you have produced outsatnding builds, with wonderful paint jobs and great details. I will definitely watch this to the end to see everyone's build. You have set a very high bar for some of us to strive for. 

Nicely done radail9. 

Bvallot great job on those radios .lookin goooooood 

5-high 

Here's just a short post on the radio equipment for the P-51A.  I managed to get this all sorted out last night, but it'll be a few days before I can get this closed up.  I decided I couldn't live without mocking up the radiator as well for these mustangs.  So, I need to get that whipped up as well as the tail wheel.  I caught a small error in scratching out the bottom shelf receivers.  I sawed off the bottom half and fixed them up...simple. The lower shelf is in place and I went ahead and scratched the Dynamotor coder from some sprue and created its place on the shelf.  All of this has a coat of primer on it and has been painted.  All I really need is to complete the wiring and IP for the most part and then put a flat coat to seal and the cockpit will pretty much wrapped up. =]  Very rewarding to tackle this section like this. 

Untitled by Britt Vallot, on Flickr

Great start of the paint, Radial9.

Larry

Not a bad start Radial9. I think you'll find that you're going to love this stuff. =] 

FINALLY found some time to get the P51 primed and painted. My third model in 40 years and my first Aclad.

Thanx Brandon & Steve. Those pics are a massive help Brandon. Thanx a bunch dude. Now I just have to go grab some decals.  OFF TO EBAY!!! 

Ok, so this is what I could come up with. I have a bunch of random decals, but these I can at least tell you what kits they are from. Personally, depending on what you want to do, I would go with national insignia in 1/48 or maybe even 1/72. 1/32 appears too large. And the nose art off 1/48 bombers looks pretty appropriately proportioned.

The model is a 1/25 Revell 65 GT350.

In the pic above, you can see the 1/48 national markings out of a Tamiya P-51D kit. The roundel on the right is a 1/32 decal out of a Monogram Dauntless (it's the same size as the US national insignia.

Nose art reference from a 1/48 Monogram A-26 Invader.

National insignia from a Monogram 1/48 P-38.

Reference for artwork and fuselage insignia off a 1/72 Airfix P-51D.

Size reference for wing insignia off the same 1/72 Airfix P-51D

I hope this helps. As for the decals, if you live in somewhere that isn't prohibitively expensive to mail them to (I'm in California), I am happy to send you the Tamiya national insignia or some of the others. I may need the P-38 markings for another kit I just bought, but most of them are extras. Let me know 

-BD-