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Mustang Build

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  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, June 29, 2015 12:05 PM

MC: Looking forward to seeing paint on her! I know it'll look great as usuallyYes

ajd3530: Nice looking cockpit. Love the belts! I still have to learn how to make those, they really add to the overall look.

Alright, so I was able to accomplish quite a bit (per my building abilitiesBig Smile) over the weekend, so here goes...First I drilled out the exhaust. Not as good as I was hoping for but should have the desired affect.

First attempt at figure painting...worked with the colors I had at hand. Looks like he could use some time in the sunBig Smile

Ok, so I was going to forego the yellow on the leading edges of the wings as this was the reason for the repainting in the first place, but after seeing a few builds on here that had them (jezz's spitfire and mustang come to mind) and how they just looked so good, I decided to give it another go. So here it is all masked off...I'll admit that I was a little nervousEmbarrassed

But I'm pretty happy with how they turned out...

Maggie doesn't seem too impressed though...mans best friend but apparently his hardest critic tooBig Smile

Sorry just having a little fun with the cameraBig Smile So back to business...

And with pale face all saddled up I attached the canopy and prop. And here is how she sits after a quick gloss coat this morning.

Should be moving on to decals soon! Comments and critiques appreciated!

-Andy

-Andy

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, June 29, 2015 12:35 PM

LOL, Maggie is giving you that "really?" look.

I love the looks of the British Mustangs. The camo and invasion stripes really look good on them, especially the Malcolm Hood.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, June 29, 2015 12:42 PM

These are both coming along nicely.  With regards to the invasion stripes, how perfectly straight were they?  I've seen where many were done with actual brushes and done quite hastily.  Does anyone have some thoughts on how this would look at a 1:48 or 1:72 scale?

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, June 29, 2015 12:45 PM

Hmmm, I never really thought about it, but yeah I guess all the invasion stripes, at least just prior to the invasion, would have been hand brushed on  Hmm

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, June 29, 2015 12:56 PM

I know what you're saying bvallot. I actually was debating with that myself when doing these, but decided (as I think we do often) to go with the clean/precise look over the perhaps more realistic. But now that you say that, I think next time I will try to make it look more realistic. Off the top of my head I'm thinking cutting the masking tape with a dull blade might give it a slightly ragged edge which should keep the scale in line. Seems like brush painting would give too large of "errors/overpainting" from side to side at this scale, know what I mean. But that may just be my skill level too:) I think it would be another one of those times when an actual picture of the aircraft would be the only way to know for sure.

-Andy

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, June 29, 2015 1:26 PM

Well, I think realistic is relative to the subject.  I wasn't harping on your stripes in particular...just that I've no doubt some must have been messier.  And I've no doubt as well (especially with Spits and Mustangs) that certain crews took pride in their planes and would have been more precise with their painting.  It seems every depiction of invasion stripes on fighter planes had them pretty as could be.  And I have seen in photos where some actual were as such. I think it would be fun to try a pair that looked a little out of sorts, but I couldn't bring myself to do it unless it was "that way" on the actual plane I'm portraying.  =]

I had similar thoughts on pulling it off rooster513.  I think a hand torn piece of tape might prove effective.  I just haven't stop to try it yet.  So I don't actually have any experience with how to pull it off.  I should think that the broken line would have to be fairly tight still at such a small scale.

Thoughts?

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, June 29, 2015 1:39 PM

I agree that it would have to be tight to stay in scale and would have to be on a plane to plane representation. No worries, I know you were pointing mine out in particular:) I've thought about it before so I'm glad you said something so everyone can give input. Honestly the more I think about it the more I want to try it. I think it could look cool and be fun to try. I like the idea of a hand torn piece of tape, gets me thinking, ummmm...great now I've gotta go buy another model!Big Smile

-Andy

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by CodyJ on Monday, June 29, 2015 2:15 PM

HAHAHHA.   Love Maggie the dog's picture!

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Monday, June 29, 2015 2:21 PM
In regards to the invasion stripes, they were, for the most part, applied rather hastily and I would assume pretty sloppy as well in some cases. But when you think of what sloppy is in the full scale, we are probably looking at what? Maybe half an inch, possibly even three quarters of an inch of fudge area? While in full scale, that is pretty apparent, how do we translate that into say 1/48 scale. That scales out to .01 to .015 of an inch. And while we can see that minute of a difference with the Mk. I eyeball (well most of us) I am not sure how we as modelers could really replicate that effect consistently. Now maybe if Eduard could make us a 6 inch paint brush scaled down to 1/48, we might be in business fellas ;-)

Thanks rooster! I think so as well, this might be my best cockpit to date. And about the belts, I can't take credit for those. I get them from a gentleman named Kerry McNally in NY. All I do is add a piece of Tamiya tape to the backside to add some thickness, and glue them on the seat.



Here is a Tamiya Meteor cockpit I recently finished with these belts.

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, June 29, 2015 2:35 PM

Thanks for the feedback ajd3530. Those look really handy! Looks like he just prints them off?  If he's around my neck of the woods in NY I may just have to introduce myselfWelcome Sign I'd love to know how he does them.

-Andy

-Andy

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Monday, June 29, 2015 2:45 PM

Waterloo, NY if I'm not mistaking. I actually first came across these because he sells them on ebay. If you'd like, I can hook you up with his email/ebay page.

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, June 29, 2015 2:54 PM

You've got to be kidding me!!!!! I'm from Waterloo!! LOL. Prolly lives down the street from me! Truly is a small world. That'd be great if you could hook me up with that info! Thanks!

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by CodyJ on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 4:11 AM

Rooster513- I wouldn't have changed a thing, the stripes look fantastic!  Looks more like a diecast (an extremely detailed one that is) than a plastic model kit.  Shows some major skill when you jump the "that must be metal" line!  LOL

 adj5330- AWESOME interior detail! :)

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 12:27 PM
Thanks Cody! I can safely say I overachieved this time.

So what I was saying about the piece AM calls the "radiator exhaust door." Its actually the roof to the radiator exaust passage. The door itsself is molded shut. Also, and a bit surprising for AM, you can see clear through the exaust port up into the cockpit. I don't know about you guys, but I try to avoid being able to see daylight through my models. So I fashioned some crude duct work from the roof of the exaust door up to the radiator with some Evergreen plasticard.



I also tried to box in the landing lights on the wing with some Evergreen strip.



Now we're ready to build an airplane. I was so ready in fact that I forgot to take any pictures between then and having the airframe completely put together, including radiator scoop and the carb intake (which is the WORST fitting piece on the entire kit. Have your Mr. Surfacer ready)



  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 12:41 PM

Looks good ajd. That is strange that AM would close the radiator door. Most pictures I've see has the door open, kinda like the gear doors and flaps.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 12:45 PM

Looks to be shaping up pretty well.  I'm with you on the daylight factor.  I lose my mind when I see light coming through somewhere it shouldn't.  

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 1:56 PM
Fun fact for all you Mustang fans out there. On the Allison Mustangs, there was a locking mechanism on the inner gear doors. So unless the gear was being cycled through, the inner doors are almost always closed.
  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 2:13 PM

Learn somthin new every day. I wonder why They didn't do that for the B/C/D models. I guess they figured it wasn't necessary and just one more thing to go wrong.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 2:39 PM

Only thing I can think of is that the Mustang has a rather low profile, and sits closer to the ground than a P-47 or P-40, and they were worried the open inner doors would be at risk of catching the ground on hard landings. And by the time the Merlin Mustangs came around, it was decided that was a non-issue? Maybe? Idk, I'm just shooting from the hip on this one.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 2:57 PM

Nice thing. The inner doors close up with hydraulic pressure so that's not a problem. They bleed down over a period of time. In fact I read somewhere that they intentionally let them bleed down. The flaps, on the other hand are put in the extended position to aid in climbing aboard/exiting.

It's so cool watching a Stang start up and the inner doors close.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 10:17 PM

I will be on vacation the end of this week July 4-11. I will be checking in with my phone during my time away. CodyJ will be available if I don't respond.

I also have some happy news, We have accepted an offer on our house and will be moving (assuming everything goes through fine) to a new home at the end of July. I will be available on the forum during that time, however I will need to pack up my builds for a week or two Crying. I should be back up and running the first part of August. I am going to try to finish the builds I have in process, but won't be starting new any until then.

Steve

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 11:14 PM

ajd: I love random facts like that.  Keep 'em coming.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by CodyJ on Wednesday, July 1, 2015 3:33 AM

Have a good time Steve!  

Hey all, if you do need anything, I am still checking in once a day at least!  Usually during the wee hours of 1-3am.  Thats when I do the drafting work.  That way I have the day to do stuff.   Sleep is overrated.  

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, July 6, 2015 7:46 AM

Hi all! I was able to get quite a bit done despite a busy holiday weekend. First I cut up some tubing for machine gun barrels. I was also able to finish up decaling on the main fuselage and the drop tanks.

 

Gave it a wash and some weathering and should have the finished pics up tonight or tomorrow!

-Andy

  

-Andy

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by ajd3530 on Friday, July 10, 2015 1:54 AM
My model/man space is upstairs in a finished attic. Obviously there are no AC vents, so to keep it tolerable in the summer, I have a fan pushing cooler air up the stairs, and a window fan unit in the window blowing out to get rid of the hot air. Obviously its no where near air tight. With that said, the humidity the past week or so is just about to the point that it interferes with painting. So progress has ben slow.

Some Mr. Surfacer 500 where needed. The only moulding flaw I have found in this kit are two small sink marks where the locator pins are just forward of the windscreen. No big deal at all.






And a light coat of primer.



Yellow theatre stripes from my own house blend of insignia yellow taped up, now ready for paint.



I feel really stupid now. After doing a bunch of research online, I remember I had this laying around. Better late than never I suppose.

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Friday, July 10, 2015 7:28 AM

Coming along nicely ajd! Smart to paint the yellow first, it's such a pain to do at the endBig Smile Looking forward to seeing more.

-Andy

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, July 12, 2015 1:39 AM

OK I'm back from vacation guys,

We will be packing up for a move out of the house to a new one at the end of the month, but I will be monitoring the GB as usual/

ajd,

Coming along nicely, I love those Squadron "Walk Around" publications. They are chock full of info.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Monday, July 13, 2015 6:10 PM

Wow, there's some great work being done in this Group Build.

I'd like to jump in with an Accurate Miniatures 1/48 F-6A with lots of extra goodies. I plan to use the kit decals because months of searching didn't turn up anything more interesting. If I'm lucky, this thing will turn out at least half a nice as some of the other Mustangs I've seen here.

Larry

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, July 14, 2015 9:14 AM

I've seen your other Mustang Larry, I'm sure you will be doing better than me.

I have you down sir.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Tuesday, July 14, 2015 12:21 PM

Thanks for letting me join the build, Steve.

I've made some progress since yesterday. Like most, I started with the cockpit. One problem that I've always had with resin replacements is getting them lined up correctly. On my last build I finally solved the problem. I start by clamping the kit sidewall in place and using white glue to attach a piece of scrap styrene strip at the front of the piece where the locator for the control panel sticks out. I also scribe a few marks at the back end of the piece.

After the white glue sets up, I remove the kit part, cut off the locator pins, and then ACC the resin replacement in, snugging it up against my temporary locator. Once the ACC cures, it's a simple matter to knock the locator loose and scrape off the little bit off white glue residue.

I also really like the Scale Aircraft Conversions white metal landing gear. Since it was made for the Tamiya kit, there's a little work involved in using the SAC tail wheel in an AM kit. Here’s the new mount in the fuselage. The bottom piece is made from sheet styrene. The corresponding part in the Tamiya kit was .035" thick, so I made mine by laminating .020 and .015 styrene. It’s .22" front-to-back and .349" side-to-side (at the front of the piece), with a slight taper toward the rear to match the contour of the fuselage. The forward hole is #57 (.043") and the rear one is #53 (.059), spaced to accept the SAC part. The top piece is made from .030 styrene with a single #57 hole. I didn’t think the width of the top piece was critical, so I left about .06" on either side of the hole. I attached the top part to the bottom using .040x.040 strip as spacers. I also added strip styrene along the edges of the bottom piece to get a larger gluing surface. After the whole assembly dried, I added it to the fuselage.

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