Floats and Boats: Amphibious Aircraft Group Build

scottrc

Your pre-shade and blending is looking good Toshi.

 

 

Toshi, I like the level of pre-shading you got going.  Not saying it is the correct way, but for me, it's just enough to see that it's there, without being over powering.

Scott, coming along nicely.  It appears you have things well under control.  What I might of tried for a better fit of the interior pieces is sanding the inside (or maybe you did this too?).  Even some carving where the bulkheads are could be an option, as the fuselage pieces looks to be fairly thick.

regards,

Jack

Scott - 

Minus the gap (which your going to fix) she is looking great. I guess these little hang ups are what improve our skills (lol). I look forward too seeing her complete. Keep up the great job.

And a final pic of my little Frankenstien in traction.  Notice the gap, I though I had all the bulkheads fit sanded, but the #2 from the rear was still out and I did not catch it until I was 75% glued up.  Oh well, a little melted styrene and some putty will clear that right up.  Man, am I going to have sanders elbow after this project is done. 

And now, I have a Goose in traction.  Its likes putting together a RC plane, or a boat.  I had to put the fuselage together in stages and make constant adjustments due to no alignment pins.  I did have one bulkhead that is a little too large giving me a gap, but that can be fixed once everything is dry.

And now here is where I am at this morning, I have sanded and fitted the interior so that is fits and does not interfere with the fuselage assembly.  You can see how the floor fits around the wheel well, which will affect the fit of the fuselage halves.  I had to do a lot of trimming and sanding in this area.  I was going to detail the interior, but decided not to spend any time on it since it won't be seen anyway.  My patience was already tested to the max on the model so I did not need any more stress.  So I am leaving the interior painted in base coats.

Another area needing attention before assembling the fuselage halves is the front windscreen.  Like everything else in the kit, it won't fit without a lot of sanding and adjusting.  I can't show it here, but a early test fit shows a 1/16 gap between the left and right sides of the windscreen, so this will be tackled later after the fuselage is assembled.  As of now, these two parts fit in pretty well.  Oh, BTW, notice the instruction sheet in the background?  It makes a good drop cloth, that is about it.  The drawn details don't really give much of a reference as to where a part actually goes.  

With the wheel wells now set and fitted properly, I now tackle the next problem.  The horizontal stabilizers did not have any alignment pins in them.  The fuselage has locations for alignment holes but nothing else.  So this is the time to drill out those holes, line up the stabs to the holes, and then drill small holes in the stabs to later put in small pins.  

Its Saturday Morning and here are pictures of my current situation.  As I said earlier in the week, I have a bear of a fit problem with the wheel well.  I had to do a lot of test fitting and sanding to get it to fit.  And as I find out later, this part affects the fit of the entire fuselage.

Your pre-shade and blending is looking good Toshi.

I wanted to protect the paint that I sprayed over the pre-shaded panel lines from nicks and scratches.  I sprayed the parts with Model Master Gloss Acrylic.

Toshi

plasticjunkie

It looks fine to me Toshi. You should give Flory Washes a try. You get more control with the panel line wash/ weathering. I use the dark dirt/grime wash and you not only darken the panel lines but you also add some grime to the finish. Check it out over at their site.

 

Toshi

BrandonK

That looks pretty darn good to me, Toshi. I think many builders over do this technique, but you seem to have hit it just right.

BK

 

Toshi

It looks fine to me Toshi. You should give Flory Washes a try. You get more control with the panel line wash/ weathering. I use the dark dirt/grime wash and you not only darken the panel lines but you also add some grime to the finish. Check it out over at their site.

That looks pretty darn good to me, Toshi. I think many builders over do this technique, but you seem to have hit it just right.

BK

These came out much better.  I can add a wash or even a pin wash to enhance the panel lines.

This will be my second attempt to pre-weather by highlighting the panel lines.  My first attempt was only succeeded due to M.Brindos step by step guidance on my M1-A1 Abrams tank.  I know I profuselesly thanked him time and time again.  I can only take what I've learned and apply it to my next build. I finally got the confidence to execute this technique of which I personally think is very difficult onto the Monogram 1:48 Catalina build with it's engraved panel lines.

I cannot go any further than this as I'm awaiting the main paint color of which is Intermediate Blue.  Estimated date, between April 2nd. and April 22nd.  Until then please view my feeble attempt at highlighting the PBY-5  panel lines.  Just please don't laugh.  LOL. 

Toshi

These next two photos are the first practice shots.  I went a liittle too strong with the base paint.  I did adjust my strategy on the next few photos, although I know in my next build I can do better.

jgeratic

Thank you crown r n7, Toshi, Steve, and BrandonK

Toshi, the landing gear looks good from here, actualy quite good since your hands were shakey.  Only in the close up can there be seen a little uneven paint between the tire and rim.  One trick to paint these is to prop the sides of your hands against the bench or something similarly stable - though I don't know how well this addresses the 'shakes'.    Others will use a circle template and choose an oppropriate size to act as a mask, and spray the center colour.

finescale toot here:

http://www.finescale.com/en/Videos/How%20To/2011/11/Painting%20Road%20Wheels.aspx

regards,

Jack

 

Toshi

Thank you crown r n7, Toshi, Steve, and BrandonK

Toshi, the landing gear looks good from here, actualy quite good since your hands were shakey.  Only in the close up can there be seen a little uneven paint between the tire and rim.  One trick to paint these is to prop the sides of your hands against the bench or something similarly stable - though I don't know how well this addresses the 'shakes'.    Others will use a circle template and choose an oppropriate size to act as a mask, and spray the center colour.

finescale toot here:

http://www.finescale.com/en/Videos/How%20To/2011/11/Painting%20Road%20Wheels.aspx

regards,

Jack

BrandonK

No hurry Toshi, you have all year to finish it up. On the PM Me410, it is a great kit. I built that exact one and I really loved it, but the antenna on the nose is a bit tricky to build, be patient with it.

BK

 

toshi

No hurry Toshi, you have all year to finish it up. On the PM Me410, it is a great kit. I built that exact one and I really loved it, but the antenna on the nose is a bit tricky to build, be patient with it.

BK

modelcrazy

Toshi,

You have become a master at your builds. Very nice work.

 

Steve

 

Toshi

Last night I felt fantastic!  No physical pain, no mental blocks and or issues. My hands were the culprit, I was so shakey, I feel I didn't do a very good job on the landing gear for the PBY.  Take a look and tell me what you think.  Thank you for your input!

Toshi

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To my fellow forum members,

Stupid me!  I found and ordered the cheapest Vallejo Model Air Intermediate Blue for the base color of the PBY Catalina.  I didn't read the whole information.  That's why I let Mrs. Toshi do all the initial purchases. This particular eBay seller lives in Slovanea.  It won't arrive until April 2nd up until April 22nd.  So now the Catalina is going to be on a holding parttern until the Model Air arrives.  

Why did I choose this particular buyer?  It was the price point that led me to make this purchase.  What you see below is the bare minimum of pre-prep that I started last night.  I will also start to AB Vallejo Gull Gray to the bottom of the aircraft.  This will keep me busy for some time as I pre-shaded the panel lines on this build.  Let's hope I can pull this off.  If not, I'll just spray the Gull Gray and use a post wash to enhance the panel lines.  

If I'm done with this early of which I will, I'm going to go ahead and build a Revell Pro Modeler Merssershmitt Me 410B-6/R-2.  This kit is awesome!  It looks like a Tamiya base type kit as it includes PE and other misc. items.  Here is my minimal progress so far.

Toshi

Jack, that is a kit for the most skilled of us. I think you are killin' it. I'm not sure I would have the patience for it. Keep it up.

BK

Jack,
Your work simply blows me away; it's like watching an engineer during the design process. The explanations and notes you insert are very explanatory and informative. Amazing!

jgeratic

Toshi, a really fine job on the interior, and the good work continues on the exterior.   Look forward to more on the catalina.

Hunter,  good work on the interior, solid work applying the paint.

Scott , yeah those kind of kits can be a bear to take on, but are that much more rewarding when completed.

---------------------------------------------------

Thanks Steve, BrandonK, Hunter, Scott,

One final bit of detail on the tail end before going forward. 

The PE was a one piece affair that wrapped around a vertical brass rod.  This gives a solid construction, but is not completely accurate.  So the green sections were removed, ending up with two sections.

Next came the stitching on the underside of the fuselage.  Current photos of the Hanriots don't show any sign of this detail.  At best there looks to be a length of fabric tape covering the area.

It took two tries to super glue the stitching in place.  On the 2nd attempt, it was easier to just leave this flimsy piece attached to one side of the fret, and once glued in place, some deft cuts to set it free.  A strip of white decal film was laid over top to represent the possible fabric covering. 

Up next were the cabane struts.  Picture from a Belgium Hanriot;

The kit provides these as individual lengths of plastic.  This leaves way too much guess work in arriving at a proper angle and fit.  A good week was spent figuring out how to approach this, but finally arrived at a solution.

It starts with a section of brass sheet 0.12mm thick, with dimensions        9mm x 31mm.  I relied on the PE scissor tool to cut, knife and ruler just didn't work.

Here is the first set test fit in place. 

Now a second pair of cabane struts were constructed the same way, but these have the struts angled inward ...

The center section also had a 0.5mm plastic rod attached with a pair of tabs - these fit in between the two wings, which are actually separate on the real bird.

Another shot of the detail with decking in place...

... and one final of top wing fit:

regards,

Jack

 

 

Toshi

wow major frame work ! comming together nicely

Toshi, a really fine job on the interior, and the good work continues on the exterior.   Look forward to more on the catalina.

Hunter,  good work on the interior, solid work applying the paint.

Scott , yeah those kind of kits can be a bear to take on, but are that much more rewarding when completed.

---------------------------------------------------

Thanks Steve, BrandonK, Hunter, Scott,

One final bit of detail on the tail end before going forward. 

The PE was a one piece affair that wrapped around a vertical brass rod.  This gives a solid construction, but is not completely accurate.  So the green sections were removed, ending up with two sections.

Next came the stitching on the underside of the fuselage.  Current photos of the Hanriots don't show any sign of this detail.  At best there looks to be a length of fabric tape covering the area.

It took two tries to super glue the stitching in place.  On the 2nd attempt, it was easier to just leave this flimsy piece attached to one side of the fret, and once glued in place, some deft cuts to set it free.  A strip of white decal film was laid over top to represent the possible fabric covering. 

Up next were the cabane struts.  Picture from a Belgium Hanriot;

The kit provides these as individual lengths of plastic.  This leaves way too much guess work in arriving at a proper angle and fit.  A good week was spent figuring out how to approach this, but finally arrived at a solution.

It starts with a section of brass sheet 0.12mm thick, with dimensions        9mm x 31mm.  I relied on the PE scissor tool to cut, knife and ruler just didn't work.

Here is the first set test fit in place. 

Now a second pair of cabane struts were constructed the same way, but these have the struts angled inward ...

The center section also had a 0.5mm plastic rod attached with a pair of tabs - these fit in between the two wings, which are actually separate on the real bird.

Another shot of the detail with decking in place...

... and one final of top wing fit:

regards,

Jack