75th Anniversary of 1942 (World at War)

checkmateking02

Exeptional work, Jack.  She's looking very good!

 

 The eyes are very well done!

Exeptional work, Jack.  She's looking very good!

Viscose hair is on, applied as long tufts around her head and also under the cap:

Now just need to reel in that wild hair to the back, a section on each side, and then snip that off and attach the braids that will be made separate.

regards,

Jack

Nice work, D.  That is a very good looking paint finish you achieved!  Looks great.

Another Tante. I did a 1/48 Revell Ju-52 a while back - except for gimp attachment points on the wings it was a crackerjack build. Big thing. Uber tank guru Mike Rinaldi is involved with the Mission Models line. According to his last videos, he is getting away from the acrylic/lacquers (Tamiya & Gunze) and as many of the enamel based weathering products as possible. In its place will be a water based acrylic for the base - MM of course - and oils serving for almost everything else. (Pigments are still in the picture.) He's making much of his Tank Art volumes out of date, but hey, they're still good and will need revisions. He has two videos at a neat hobby shop in Toronto that hosts some really good presentations: If you're interested in someone trying to redefine armor modeling, check "Mike Rinaldi Hairspray Technique" and "Mike Rinaldi Oil Painting Technique." About 40 minutes together. (A longer clinic is actually too much talk and way too little modeling.) Might add that in neither video does Rinaldi plug a product except Mission and then only for a second, so they're not infomercials. Rinaldi's background is in design and arts - the Mission Models paints actually ask modelers to alter the agent itself to get a desired technique. Artists do this all the time with mediums and glazes, but not us. Mission makes is very simple, but that's what they're doing. (I've already used that polyurethene brew of theirs in a very successful attempt to airbrush a very nice coat of Vallejo Model Color Gray on my paint mule.) If they can get traction despite asking something a little unfamiliar, there could be a kind of designer paint you can tailor to the effect you want. For a straight down coat, I think MM is very nice - I've only used it once, but will be messing with their white tonight. I get very good vibes from them - they've told me their paint is better than High Flow - we'll see. As much as I like Vallejo paints, I still find Model Air can be a little tricky. A really predictable water based self-leveling paint that doesn't require a multitude of ultra-thin coats would be very nice. Eric

Thank you Dan, and good progress with the Junkers.  When you think about it, makes sense that the corugated surfaces will take a lot more paint when applied by brush.

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Thank you Dwayne, and I like what you going with the T-34.  Look forward to seeing those Kaizen brand tracks - I've never tired those.

regards,
Jack

Jack, that figure is looking fantastic.  Can't wait to see the finished product!

Eric, I am liking the technique, and especially the color used on that Panzer.

MC, that flaming tank is a show stopper!  Wow!

Dan, that Junkers is looking good.

Had last week off, and was hoping for some major bench time, but ended up with a honeydo list.  Still managed to get some bench time, and most of the construction is done on the T-34.  Put a coat of Tamiya Nato Black, and then the base coat of Russian Dark Olive by Mission Models Paints.  Here are a couple of quick pics.

I did a little work on the inside of the turret even though it will initially be buttoned up.  I plan to attach the turret hatch with white glue so I can remove it later if I do the commander figure. 

I have to say that I am very pleased with the MM paints.  They are very forgiving.  There were a couple of spots where I got heavy handed, but you would never know when the paint dried.  If they work this well for detail painting, I am sold.

Just ordered some Kaizen workable tracks from Hong Kong, and they may take up to a month to get here.  Couldn't stand the thought of putting the terrible rubber tracks on that came with the kit.  Hopefully I will have most (all) of weathering and added on bits done by then.

D

Nice save, Dan.  The bird is looking very good in blue.

I should also mention to the GB members that my home computer died last night.  Before it gave up the ghost, there was a box on the screen saying something about a power issue--but everything shut down before I could read through it.

Now it just sits there inert and useless.

Anyhow, having no computer at home may slow up my response time, but I do have access to one at work.

 

Thanks Checkmate.

Thanks Stikpusher: Excellent job on the Bf 109, a job well done. I like the color scheme.

 

Ebergerud: Great work on the Panzer IV.

 

Jgeratic: Very nice figures, great detail.

 

Bish: Great job on the diorama, figures and the Panzer II came out great.

 

Been able to work off and on the Junkers Ju 52/3M, went down to Hopkinsville, Kentucky to see the Solar Eclipse, back on August 21.

I had first was hand painting the Ju52, but I was not liking how long it was taking to build up the paint. So I stripped the paint down to the bare plastic and started over.

17 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

18 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

I used Tamiya tape to mask up the windows.

19 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

First up was Model Master Enamel Grey Primer #2737. Two light coats on both sides. The primer takes about two days to fully dry.

21 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

Next up is RLM 65 on the bottom, I used Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue. Four very light coats to build it up.

22 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

23 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Steve, Ckeck, Bish, and Eric.

Yes, the bust I'm working on is on the small side at 1/12 scale, but I've seen even smaller ones at 1/16 which is the usual domain of full length figures.

I normally paint the head first, but my preference is to have it separate from the body, in which case it doesn't matter.  On this one I wanted to tackle the torso first so I could devote full attention to the face afterwards.   In hindsight, it would of been easier to create a mask around the head, the opposite of what I'm doing now.

regards,
Jack

Jack,

Lovely work. Not something I'd try. Actually a very moving agitprop image - Stalin's government didn't usually do that kind of thing well. And as there were 800,000 women in uniform in the Red Army - many close tp or even in the front lines - it must have had additional power.

The eye and color aren't easy to figure - there are still arguments over the number or concept of primes. I'm looking at the tank in front of me and there's no blue - I've got a handle on all of the pigments in the Golden and Gamblin paints and it's carbon and titanium. (A filter that went on the side surfaces has a bit of green in it.)  I've been looking at German gray - decidedly warm, uniforms have a clearly green hue.

In military modeling (especially armor) most of us are normally using some kind of gray - almost envy the car guys that can use these incredible bright and perfect finishes. And I've been doing German ships with RAL 7000 and 7001 both based on a chromatic black with a blue hue. My last model was a Beaufighter that was also mostly covered with a "cool" gray made from a blue hue chromatic black and faded with white and blue oils. But does this look blue?

PicFtDet by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

As I understand it, modelers had a very long argument over whether P-51s carried a blue nose. (The 352d FG did in 1945, but apparently no one else.) Sometimes I think that what you expect to see guides the eye. Now if I could ever do that British Racing Green Spitfire with Titanium White racing stripes up the side, there'd probably be no problem. Barring that, we live with what our eyes tells us and that's rarely the same thing in two seperate glances.

Eric

That is totally amazing Jack. Stunning work. And i'll concur with Steve, i thought this was bigger until the pic with the bottle.

Outstanding work, Jack.  It's a real work of art!

Just curious--do you usually paint faces last?  

That is amazing Jack  I would have never known that bust was that small until you put that bottle next to it.

Eric, looks right on, and isn't that something, even without trying still ended up with a blue hue.

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Nice work, Eric!

Looking good Eric. Personally, i am glad you didn't take the modulation route, you have a much more realistic finish with what you have.

Spent a long time yesterday working on the kit with oils - chipping, panel wash and filtering. Should have done filtering first. If the kit was going stay gray, I would have faded it with oils to reproduce "modulation" and to greatly lighten it - this tank would have been a year old in early 42. Instead I used filters. I used Wilder oils and Gabmblin FastMatte - an akloyd resin/linseed oil based paint. The Gamblin is very interesting: extremely dry, while Wilder's is very thin (you must drain a lot of oil). They both dry very quickly. (Figure one day for a lot of oil - an hour for small amounts.) Although I'd guess doing very small jobs that any oil would dry in a couple of hours or so. The flash left it a little lighter than it appears at my house, but not much. The wheel on top is the original Dark Gray. I also filtered the top surfaces more than the sides and did so with a lighter filter - hopefully you can see that the top surfaces are visibly lighter than the sides. Also, everything was done irregularly and there is quite a bit of tonal variation which is what I want. It looks terrible of course, but by the time I'm done this will not be a museum model. Next - white wash.

Eric

filtered by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Yikes: that is neat. But I think I'll observe explosive effects done with LEDs etc from the sideline. I'm having enough trouble without having to worry about electronics. (I've got the Tamiya MKIV male, and it's got a motor and the motor is going in - but no lights. Supposed to be a great kit.) Of course we could go toward performance art. Most model viewing is done via photos in our day, and I suppose you could put together some neat dio - prep a tank - pick the right fuel - ignite it and take pics. (I modeled when I was a kid. At first kits were kind of toys and when they began to break we'd either drench them with glue and give it a match; take a BB gun to it; or stick a small firecraker inside. Once I sunk the Graf Spee with a 410 gauge shotgun: had no idea how loud it would be in my basement. Later I got better and started putting them on my ceiling where I'd guess they stayed for five years. Best way to display airplanes I've ever found I think - especially with display space so lacking in my small houses.) Eric

You could do a mix of both... a tank wading ashore that has been hit... Normandy or Tarawa or some other chaotic opposed landing

 

Thanks Stick

I want to do another burning scene, I just haven't come up with a subject yet. I also wanted to try a tank stuck in a ditch with water up to it's fenders.

That flame effect is awesome! Thanks for looking up what you did MC! 

I have a photo of a great diorama of USS Franklin that a guy in my IPMS chapter did. He did something similar. But it was more smoke and less flame.

For the flame pillar, I used 2 high intensity white LEDs inside some hollowed out cotton. I stiffened the cotton using acrylic varnish and painted with yellow, yellow/orange and black. The LEDs are powered by 2 AA batteries. The flame out of the barrel was done using a smaller high intensity LED, powered by the same power source.

Looking at the build now, I have learned so much in two years. I could do a far better job on the tank now.

Yes, you did an awesome flame effect there MC!!! Please share! I forgot how you did that. 

Whoa, what? I need to go back and do some reading. That was my "Lion of Babylon"

Thanks Stick. I'll read back some and see what this is about.

 

Page 19 of the GB has all the photos, so I will presume that he explained his technique to achieve this fantastic look on 18 or 17...

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/166177.aspx?page=19

Yeah, a guy did a fantastic build of a T-72 blowtorching immediately after being hit in the Gulf War GB last year. I'll see if I can find the post.

EBergerud

What would be neat would be to model a tank just after its being hit, but I've never seen a good way to model flame or smoke. And what about crew casualties? - even if correctly done (I don't usually do figures) they would take the attention given to the vignette when done. There's more than enough going on here without adding options. Eric

 

There is a link here in the forums to a person who does amazing things with LED lights, cotton, and paint. Then he adds in photos. I think he is British because there is mention of 220 volt wiring. He has done Midway but also tanks. I think it might be in the Diorama forum, and within the last few months.  Maybe if you search on flames it will pop up.

Hi Eric, no not doubting Chory's work. 

I'm  concerned with the fact that modern RAL colour charts can be found on the net, easily accessible to the modeler, museums,  hobby paint manufacturers, etc.  Wish it were known exactly which military colours were altered post war.

regards,

Jack