ManCityFan

Thanks all for the positve comments on the tracks.  This was a new experience for me.  More tedious than difficult, but I think it is a worthy upgrade. 

Bish, yes they are plastic, and don't have much weight.  I went for the less expensive route on this, as the Kaizen tracks are about 2/3 the cost of the friul.  Now that I have tried them, I will probably fork over the extra $12 to get Friuls if I get AM tracks in the future.  That said, these tracks are molded really well.

After testing the tension on the tracks, they are just a little bit off, and I think I can use CA to glue the tracks to the first and last running wheels, and she will look great.

D

 

I do like Fruils, i have almost 30 sets to use. But ye, they are pricey and i only replace rubber band tracks with them. I do like some of the plastic tracks, especially the Dragon magic tracks. I would not write the plastic tracks off completly. I have some Bronco plastic tracks to use on my AS90 i'll be doing in a couple of months, i am keen to see how those come out.

My apologies for being away from the group build for so long, I finished my Revell 1/144 Junkers Ju 52/3M a few days ago. The decals went on with no trouble, the yellow band's two ends did not touch on the bottom so I touched it up with Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow.

From the aircraft being so small I rigged up a pole with fishing line to photograph the model outside against the blue sky. In photoshop I removed the wire and pole, and motion blurred the propellers.

01 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

02 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

03 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

04 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

7 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

6 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

Revell 1/144 Junkers Ju 52/3M along side Revell 1/48 Junkers Ju 52/3M.

5 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

Next up is Trumpter 1/32 Junkers Ju87 Stuka.

1 by Daniel Smith, on Flickr

Thanks all for the positve comments on the tracks.  This was a new experience for me.  More tedious than difficult, but I think it is a worthy upgrade. 

Bish, yes they are plastic, and don't have much weight.  I went for the less expensive route on this, as the Kaizen tracks are about 2/3 the cost of the friul.  Now that I have tried them, I will probably fork over the extra $12 to get Friuls if I get AM tracks in the future.  That said, these tracks are molded really well.

After testing the tension on the tracks, they are just a little bit off, and I think I can use CA to glue the tracks to the first and last running wheels, and she will look great.

D

Still without a living computer at home, so I'm behind in postings; but--

Jack:  really like your progress on the Spitfire; things are looking good!

rooster:  nice paintwork and detail on the 109; everything appears to be going your way

Dwayne:  those tracks will make a big improvement in appearance; nice job assembling them; I haven't built a vehicle in years, and when I did, they were the old rubber/plastic kit-included type--so I admire anyone that can invest the effort in individual links; well-done

D, thats coming on well. Not seen those tracks before, are they plastic? AsJack says, you may be able to strecth them a bit. It could simply be that they don't have enough weight to hold them down, thats why i like metal tracks.

Looking very good there, Dwayne.

If the pins in the tracks have a slight malleable property, you probably can 'stretch' some extra length from the tracks.

regards,

Jack

Yeah, looking at photos, they seem to be well tensioned in the field during operations.

Hey Stik, yes, they float just a little above the road wheels.  This kit gives the ability to adjust the idler, but to get the tracks to sit on the road wheels, the idler ends up rubbing against a wheel.  I will try again to see if I can loosen the tension.  I also tried adding one pair of links, but then they are way too loose.  I don't see any real sag between the road wheels in pictures of T-34's in the field.

D

D, those tracks look great! They should give just the right appearance on your T-34. But I'm a bit confuse when you say they don't sit right. Are they unable to settle down into the tops of the roadwheels?

Jack and Rooster, both builds look good.  Looking forward to more updates.

So I got this in the mail last Wednesday:

Here is a picture of one pair of links done, and one of the pins,

I also finally got around to making the tow cables after cutting off the plastic cable pieces.

I finished the tracks this evening.  Here is a close-up.  The links are molded quite well.  There are 36 pairs of link per track.  De-spruing and clean up was easy due to the sprue connections being quite fine.  Getting the pin into the track was initially fairly frustrating, but I learned how to get the links set up just so, and the second track went together quickly.  Test fitting shows the tracks do not sit on the road wheels, but a little CA will take care of that.  These tracks are SO much better than the vinyl kit tracks.

Here is a side view.  Decals (all two of them) are on.  There are slogans included with the kit, but I read on Missing-Lynx that slogans were really only used for propaganda photos, so I stuck with simple unit designations.  Did a pin wash, and attempted a dot filter.  Dot filter will have to be done again, as I think I took too much of the oil paint off.  Easy enough to try again.  Made a mud "slurry" with PVA glue, mud color Polly S paint and some dirt from the garden.  Looks good as dried mud, so I may make up another slurry with a darker shade for wet mud.

Here is a front view.

Still lots to do.  Have to paint and weather the tracks.  Pin wash for the grill, dry brushing, and some pigments to dirty her up.

A lot of first attempts on this kit.  AM tracks, making the tow cables, the mud slurry, pin wash, dot filter, and using Mission Models paint.  The paint was a joy to use, and I will be buying more. 

Thanks for looking,

D

Thanks Andy, and keen work on the interiors of your project.

Bish, you are quite welcome.

regards,

Jack

Thanks for the heads up Jack. I think the one i plan on geting includes flaps as well as cockpit detail. I'll be geting it and the kit in Nov. I have used some of their PE ground equipment such as wheel chocks and ladders and really like them.

Really nice work there rooster, great job on the pit.

Jack, that looks like another great start!

Finally have an update on my 109...

Cockpit all painted up and fit inside the fuselage halves. Pretty nice detail for OOB cockpit. Made some lapbelts out of tape and wire.

With a little cutting and sanding I was able to pose the radiator flaps open...

And here it is with the finished engine and cowlings...

I'll be attaching the canopy and getting started on main painting sortly. Everyone keep up the great work!!

Thank you Bish.

The Bregun PE is quite good and has nice detail.  I like the control stick (not in the above posted photo) which is bent over itself to give thickness and detail on both sides.

The only thing I found that needed to be modified was the headrest.  They  provided a flat disc to represent it - maybe it was just the base to which you add the plastic kit part after cutting it off, but the instructions didn't indicate to do that.

My main reason for adding the photo etch set is from past experience with another Sword kit.  It too was wheels up, but the landing gear doors were oversize and rested above the surface of the wings.  Using the PE ones will enable to have them sit flush.

regards,

Jack 

Coming on nicely Jack.

How you finding that Brengun PE. I have their 72nd car door Typhoon on my Hannants shopping list and thinking about getting their own PE set for it.

Hi Check, thanks!

Got a bit done on the recon Spitfire, but this late September heatwave in north eastern Ontario is keeping me away from the bench.

regards,

Jack

Jack:  I've updated the finished-build list with the photo.  She looks grand! 

Also updated the build-roster with your Spitfire.  Nice choice, and glad to have you sticking around for another addition to the GB.

Thank you Scott. 

regards,

Jack

Jack,

You really honed in and got her eyes and tones on her face.  Very well represented.

Thank you Check and Bish.

For the gallery either the first or second photo - for some reason I find the left side of her face more photogenic.

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I'm thinking to add one more build here, something to get back on track to military hardware.  So a quick (famous last words) build of a Spitfire.   Sword's Spitfire PR Mk.IV Trop in 1/72 scale.

regards,

Jack

Jack, you have really surpasses yourself with that, and that says a lot. That is one stunning piece of modelling.

Outstanding, Jack.  What great results you achieved.

Do you have a preference for the finished photo?

Thanks for being part of the GB, Jack.  You're work is always a pleasure to view.

Sorry again for delays in posting.  Still the home computer issue.

Thank you Dwayne, Stik, and Steve.

For some reason, the blush on her cheeks really stand out on these digital photos.  Might have to tone those down.

regards,

Jack

edit, replaced finished photos with new set.  Gave a bit more exposure when shooting so don't have to lighten them as much with software.  Skin still looked overly red on the  screen (maybe it's my monitor), so adjusted the hue just a smidgen.

That's remarkable Jack.

Superb work Jack! I really can not help but marvel at your talent.

Hey Jack, I don't think this really needs to be said, as it is obvious, but that is very well done.

Very interesting subject that really shows off your skills.  

D

Soviet Lieutenant

Red Army,  1942

A final photo stich of the start to finish progression:

regards,

Jack

Yes, the rust forms on battle damage as a result of the paint burning away. The heat will oxidize the bared metal, with the natural environment doing the rest in short time afterwards. But if the paint is not burned away, it obviously will stay put. German paints applied at the factory were pretty robust, so all the chipping curently seen on many builds is more artistic fad that reality. The paint stands up well to most anything but high velocity impacts of bullets and shell splinters on the armor. And of course the sheet metal on stowage boxes and fenders will be more like to show such damage.

This Mk.IV at El Guettar shows massive battle damage but little oxidation in areas not burned

and this knocked out Semovente in Tunisia shows more oxidation from an obvious internal fire, but less obvious external damage

Thanks Check and Dwayne.

The bust is pretty much done, just going to put it aside for the day, and give it a final look over tomorrow before taking the final photos.  Below is how I setup to do the braids -definitely not something you'd see at a hair stylist shop:

A C-clamp holds the three strands together (already glued at that end) while a pipe wrench holds it all and provides some weighted resistance as it requires both hands free to do the braiding. 

 regards,

Jack