very nice , the PE added a lot . looking forward to seeing it painted .

Looks good BK. Nice taping job.

I've been away for a long while now. I've just been slammed with things to do and modeling has fallen behind. Since my last post where I had dropped the nearly complete Peleliu I have been reworking the kit. I had to purchase another Tarawa class ship to rob some parts off that got lost when I dropped it and others that were damaged beyond repair. Since I had to do all that I also decided to get some PE for the ship and make it look a bit better. I ran most of the railings, safety catch nets and antennas on the ship. The PE is super small and very hard to work with in this scale, so some of it just can't be done by me. The ship however, does look much better and more to scale with this added. Here is the shots just before heading off to repaint kit. As long as I don't drop it again I should get this done before too much longer.

BK

Don't worry Gam. You have it down, you have all the time you want.

Ben: Congrads!!!

And the LST-1 is still sitting here. Steve is going to beat me. I was hoping this GB would motivate me to get off my butt and build the darn thing. But I keep fooling around with other stuff...

I think you're right GH. I believe I'll put in the paperwork. 

Admiral....the good Captain should be put in for the Navy Cross for what he accomplished with the Banner kit. 

That thing is in the highest tradition of the Navy.

DRUMS01

I have already purchased the Tamiya Yamato in 1/350 along with the Lions Roar, and Eduard detail kits, decking, etc. (smile) but that will be next year.

I will absolutely be looking forward to that Ben!

Here is your ribbon should you want it.

I've put her on the wall.

Absolutely fan-freaking-tastic.  You put your all in her.

As a side note, University of Arizona main quad has a full size main deck perimeter outline in brick.  Really have to see it from above to notice it.

What a spectacular build Ben! Your work on correcting inaccuracies of the kit is absolutely mind blowing! thanks for documenting your work for us.

MONGOOSE: Thank you... My goal was to provide accurate detail points anywhere you look on her. You along with other responding to the build were inspirational in me achieving just that. P.S.: I really like your work in this GB as well.

STEVE: Thanks for your motivational remarks and suggections. Perhaps she will find a proper home some day. And as for the photo, you choose from those provided. Regarding another ship GB, I have already purchased the Tamiya Yamato in 1/350 along with the Lions Roar, and Eduard detail kits, decking, etc. (smile) but that will be next year. Your skills are off the charts and I appreciate it very much.

GAMERA: Thanks a lot. I really appreciate you following her build. Your input really helped me push through some of the though spots in the build. Hey, what ever happened to the LST-1 build?

JOE RIX: Why thank you sir! I am so glad you enjoyed my build string. I actually hope to do that level of detail in a build string some other time. And how are the Gato or USS Oakland coming?

STEVE5: Thanks, I hope I did her and her crew proud.

you should be very proud of yourself ben , just beautiful .

Bravo Ben! Bravo! Your finished Arizona is absolutely stunning and impeccable. You, my friend, are a true inspiration. I have found so much enjoyment in following along with your amazing efforts. Your attention to detail and the patience to implement it are to be highly commended. It is truly a work of art. Thank You so very much for sharing your immense talents and skills with us.

Ben: OH WOW OH WOW!!! 

I wish I could see her in person too but I'd just drool all over your magnificent work and ruin it so it's good I'm looking at her virtually!!! 

Fantastic show!!! 

Absolutely lovely piece of work Ben . I don't much more to say other than what I've already said. It was a plesure for me for you to participate. I believe you have honored the ole gal. At some point you may want to contact the Arizona Museum or even the state of Arizona if you ever want to let others enjoy it.

Which picture do you want on the wall? I'll get your award done tonight probably.

Since you want to take a break from ships I suppose you wouldn't be intrested in the German Ships GB. The Japanese Ships will be starting in 2021. That will be the last of the Ships GB's unless others want me to do various other navys together in one GB such as Russian, Chinese, French, Italian, Korea, Indian, etc. 

Thank you again for participating and producing and excelent build.

Dang i wish I could see this in person! My absolute favorite part is the stern area with all 3 aircraft and the motor yacht! And then i look midships and think no thats my favorite area, no it's the stern  ohh and what a job on the anchor chain area of the bow. what a beautiful ship overall. 

Hello all....here is the final reveal. As requested I am listing the products used during the build, identifying the kit shortfalls, corrections for accuracy, and additions or modifications performed. I am also posting this on the "Ships" topic as well.

KIT: 

1/350 USS Arizona manufactured by Banner 
(also sold under Hobby Boss and Mini Hobby)

ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS USED DURING THE BUILD:

- Eduard super detail PE set # EDU53016
- Eduard super detail PE Set # EDU53069
- Eduard USS Arizona Railings # EDU53078
- Tom's Modelworks cranes and catapults PE set #TMW3528
- Tom's Modelworks boat details PE set #TMW3529
- Alliance Modelworks WW2 US Naval vessel wiring, cable, routers #NW35020
- Alliance Modelworks WW2 triangular perforated gussets #NW35032
- machined naval vessel ships bell #CYG011
- machined US Navy bollards and metal anchor chain #CYG007 (Qty=2)
- US Navy upgrade set #CYE012
- Master Models machined brass barrels (22) #350049
- Trumpeter 1/350 OSU-2 Kingfisher float planes #6249
- Blue Ridge Model's VF-5 decal set (for correct OSU-2 insignia) #BRM1109
- Scale Decks wood deck #LCD-42
- China value based wood deck (for small boats)
- AK Interactive US Navy WW2 camouflage paint set 1
- AK Interactive US Navy WW2 camouflage paint set 2 
- AK Interactive thinner, brush cleaner
- Tamiya 1/350 Naval crew # 12622
- Minted USS Arizona challenge coins (2)
- Hobby Lobby 5x18 picture frame (for base)
- Hobby Lobby 1/8" premuim mat board
- JTT resin water (blue and clear)
- JTT model railroad snow powder
- Brass, plastic, aluminum rods, sheets, extrusions (various)
- welding solder (.162, .031, .015) various lengths
- Cements (CA glue, Testers clear glue, Loctite gel, debonding agent, insta-set)
- Brushes and applicators (various)
- Hobby knife razor blades (many for PE alone)
- Wet/dry sanding paper (various 320-2000 grit) 
- Sew-ology clear nylon rigging thread #1254360

RESEARCH PUBLICATIONS:

- The Battleship Arizona (Waldemar Goralski)
- USS Arizona, The enduring Legacy of a Battleship (Ineo Bauernfeind)
- Battleship Arizona, An Illustrated History (Paul Stillwell)
- USS Arizona, Squadron at Sea (David Boyle)
- USS Arizona, Ships Data (Leeward Publications)
- USS Arizona Ships Drawings, Arizona Memorial Museum Assn.
- input from various first hand experts

KIT SHORTFALLS, CORRECTIONS, AND MODIFICATIONS:

- Poor deck fitting and details (corrected with wood deck, PE and scratch components)
- Poor design and seams in superstructure (corrected with PE, plastic, brass, etc.)
- Poorly molded 5" broadside gun stations (modified for soft covers, brass barrels)
- Poorly molded stairs, ladders, doors, vents (removed old, corrected with PE sets)
- Poorly molded aircraft (disgarded, corrected with Eduard, PE and scratch items)
- Poorly molded anchor chain (removed old, corrected with real scale chain)
- Poorly molded hawes pipes and anchor locker holes (reshaped, PE, plastic)
- Poorly molded barrels and design (discarded, scratch build with metal barrels)
- Poorly molded detail on main guns (corrected with scratch and PE parts)
- Poorly molded splinter shields and gun tubs (removed, replaced with PE, scratch work)
- Poorly molded and inaccurate superstructure (removed, replaced with PE and scratch)
- Poorly molded and inaccurate conning tower (removed, replaced with PE)
- Poorly molded and inaccurate signal flag boxes (removed replaced with PE)
- Poorly molded cranes and catapults (discarded, replaced with PE, and scratch items)
- Poor detail under all platforms (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items)
- Boat mounts incorrect and poor mold (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items)
- Rear gun tubs molded wrong (removed, replaced with PE and scratch items)
- Boats and barges lack any detail (corrected with PE and scratch items)
- Incorrect leading edge of hull armor plate (reshaped corrected belt lines)
- Incorrect bilge keels (did not use lower half of hull)
- Incorrect location for main mast tripod legs (modified model and scratch items)
- Incorrect signal platform in kit and Eduard (modified, scratch items, PE)
- Incorrect platforms/stairs by vegetable locker (partial scratch fix)
- Incorrect search light structures on exhaust funnel (removed, fixed with PE)
- Incorrect flag poles (front, rear, main mast) (removed and created from scratch)
- Incorrect masts and antenna array (removed, fixed with PE and scratch items)
- Missing R.D.F. Hut on superstructure (created from scratch)
- Missing Mk#49 platforms/rings superstructure (created from scratch)
- Missing Mk#49 raised platforms stern tubs (created from scratch)
- Missing and incorrect Eduard PE conning tower stairs (scratch built with PE)
- Missing incinerator (created from scratch)
- Missing all open chocks (created from scratch)
- Missing reels, waterproof doors, vents (corrected with PE)
- Missing anchor details (corrected with PE and scratch)
- Missing flags for bow, stern, no signal flags, (corrected from scratch)
- Missing sky top MG Platform for 41 (fixed with PE and scratch items)
- Missing fore mast sky perch for 41 (corrected with PE)
- Missing boat booms on sides of hull (fixed with scratch items)
- Missing hull observation planks (fixed with spare part PE)

I present my corrected USS Arizona. It is shown as anchored in February 1941 at the Puget Sound Naval Ship Yard prior to its departure to Pearl Harbor. 

Thanks for allowing me to participate in this group build. This is without question one of my most comprehensive builds to date. I had never dreamed of taking this much time or effort on this group build. Only after seeing the actual kit, researching, and dedicating myself to the build was I able to step into completing it. And completing it to this level would not have happened or been possible without many of you on the Fine Scale Modeler site. A special thanks for all you who provided resources, information, motivation, and encouragement during the build (you know who you are).

Thanks for looking, your feedback is encouraged. Whats next?, who knows, but I doubt it will be a ship right away (smile).

Ben

Absolutely fabulous work on turning out a contest winner.  Pat yourself on the shoulder for me.

Looks great Ben. I love the flag 

Can't wait for the final reveal

BTW I did boat booms on the "USS" Prinz Eugen

That's a contest winner Ben! Awaiting the final reveal 

I am calling this my last "work in progress" update. The next post will be the full reveal. Honestly I think I could keep going for a long time still looking at little things I could change, clean-up, add, etc., but there has to be a time when a model is accepted as done and this is my last major update before the reveal.

WATER:

Just to recap, up to this point I purchased a 5x18 picture frame along with some 1/8" premuim mat board. The mat was cut to fit inside the frame then cut again using the base of the hull as a template. This allowed the model to sit "in" the water without looking too deep or way over the foul line. Then I used regular aluminum foil and krinkled it up and pulled it apart to replicate part of the ocean texture. Then I sealed the foil to the matt board and the matt board to the frame making it water tight. Last I added an initial coat of JTT model railroad blue tinted resin water. I was very impressed with the blue/green color. 

And now moving forward I added a second layer of the blue tint which helped bond the model to the display base. Once dry I used various clear blues, clear greens, and deep sea blue, to make the illusion of depth in the water.  

Afterwards I added a small amounts of a scale railroad modeling accessory called "snow powder". The powder represented the white caps of the waves. Being my ship was anchored in port I did not have any kind of rough ocean. To apply the powder in specific locations I poured a small amount into a jar and pulled it from the jar with a pipet. The locations were laid out with white glue that dries clear.





The final step was a coat of clear resin for the shine of the water. Here is how the water build up progressed:

Start: (initial blue tint resin and ship attached)


In process: (beginning to show darker spots)


Completed:(you can't really see the multi shaded blue, green areas but it is there)


PEOPLE:

The remaining Tamiya naval figures were painted according to information obtained from period photos. I then added or posed them in positions found in historical photos. If you recall, I added many of the figures during the build process as it would not have been possible to add them in some locations after assembly, example.... inside the superstructure. It could've been real easy to add another 100 figures, but the effect I believe has already been achieved. Here is an example:



FLAGS:

The model kit came with a very basic decal sheet. The only "flag" was the nation ensign and it was a smaller one normally reserved for when at sea and hoisted on the main mast. Being my model will be anchored in port I had to either buy more flag decals or make my own. Regarding the flags, one of our very own (modelcrazy) told me this:

"As far as flags. if you are showing her in port, the national ensign flys from the stern pole and the Union Jack (all blue with stars) flys from the bow pole, at least since the late 1770's. Once the lines are cast over and the ship is detached from the pier, the Union Jack is lowered and the ensign is lowered form the stern and raised on the mast, usually the main mast but not always. This is the USN tradition"

I see too many flags on models that are perfectly straight, as if they are a rigid piece of metal. In reality woven flags are very flexible. They will sag or wave in the wind depending on the wind direction and speed (force). Based on more guidance from a peer modeler (yes,...modelcrazy) I decided to partially follow his recommendation and print my flags on paper. I tried regular paper, quality stationary, and even photo paper. 

My printer is a Cannon photo quality color printer. I use an HP ink because their ink is somewhat water resistant (important during the gluing phase). I copied an image of the flag with both sides and using white glue I attached them to a thin piece of aluminum foil. I also tried the thinner paper on some thicker lead foil. Once dry I just cut it out. Now there are two basic methods on adding the flag to the mast; (a) fold it around the mast then glue it together then work the foldsor , or(b) fold it together and once dry shape it as if furled in the wind. After it is shaped simply glue it to the mast or signal line. In this case I those method "B" as it was much easier to ensure the flag was folded the way I wanted without risking to damaging the model or rigging. The flags I replicated were the "Jack" for the bow, the National Ensign (*in this case a 48 star national flag) for the stern of the ship. In addition I also created an Admiral pennant to identify his position on the ship, it is flying on top the main mast. Last a signal flag was hoisted on the outward signal line of the starboard antenna array. It is the signal flag for "Mike" which tells others the ship is stopped (in this case anchored). After all that being said, here is one of the flags I added:



The last items I am completing are the boat booms which did not come with the ship(?). Normally they lay against the side of the hull when not in use or are deployed outward to allow the smaller ships boats to tie on. Thiink of it likr attaching a horse to a hitching post....

 
(folded)


(deployed, notice the rope and rope ladders)


To finalize my build I will also add the Arizona decals to the stern and the waterline numbers above the foul line on the hull. Last will be some very mild weathering. The mild weathering is for two reasons, (1) any rust or wear on an active duty naval ship is normally repaired immediately, hence the term "ship shape", and (2) the period I am presenting the ship is just after her January / February 1941 upgrades (including paint) which were done prior to her departure from Puget Sound Naval Yard before heading to Pearl Harbor. This means she would have a near frfesh coat of paint on her with really no rust to mention.

In my final reveal will consolidate some of my work to identify the various suppliers used on the build, the shortfalls along with the solutions and additional work. Of course it will also show numerous photos of the completed model. Till then, happy modeling and tell me what you think. Seriously, this has been many things: a learning experience, an adventure, challenge, and pleasure to build. Till then.....

Ben

Pat: That looks great! I was wondering how well the rough 3D printed surface would turn out but following along I've been really impressed! 

Since you’re building a 3D kit I’d say your “toeboard” idea sound great

Mongoose,

Thanks for the offer.  I just sent you a PM.

In the mean time here are a couple pictures of my current progress.  I've only done a little work, while waiting for the Photo Etch.  Mostly, I've tried to clean up the transom and aft end of the Helo Hangar and also added some "toeboards" to the decks in way of where I intend to try and add Photo etch railings.

I've only ever tried to use photo etch before once, about 30 years ago, and I never ended up finishing that model (a 1/600 scale Airfix Type 21 Frigate) because I just wasn't sure how to best attach the railings. 

Since then I've heard that it is typically best to use CA glue, but that sometimes it can be challenging because of the "knife edge" joint between the PE and the deck of your model.  As such, since (I believe) it's common for ship's to have toeboards (or waterway bars) along their deck edges (like the image below that I borrowed from Wikipedia and marked up), I decided to glue a very small strip of styrene along the deck edges in way of where the railing will go, to hopefully provide a better "right angle" area for the railing to glue to. 

Although my picture is a little fuzzy, if you click on it and zoom in, you can kind of just make out some of these "toeboards" on the deck above the hangar in the 2nd image below.

Hopefully, now that I've gotten some of the stuff I ordered off eBay I can now start added the doors and cleaning up dome areas.

Pat

That was my thought as well.

Super nice photo.

Bill

GMorrison

Did you notice something on the deck of the ship in your first photo? Down in the right hand (port on the ship) corner?

Aha!

 

Bill

 

Starboard wingtip of one of her aircraft.  Looks like it's on the deck trolly.  If you zoom in and look closely, just on the right side of the mast cross brace, you can see the wingtip and star of the #3 turret cat aircraft.

Pat if you want to paint those helo deck marking on i can email you the file i made for my masks. I may also have a hi-res jpg of the original decal sheet if you want to print your own. PM me your email if either or both options work for you 

Hi,

Its been a couple months but I finally got some photo etch and decals that I ordered off eBay, so I am looking to try and get back to my 3D printed FFG(X) model.  

I ended up deciding to use photo etch doors, so I bought a couple frets of Veryfire USN 1/350 scale doors.  For railing, I bought a L'Arsenal Ultra Thin USN rail set, but since I also needed flight deck nets I bought a couple frets of rails and fittings from some company called BIGBLUEBOY for a Chinese Type 055 Destroyer, since the nets included on those frets looked about right for wht I wanted.

After that I also bought an set of Yellow and Red stripe warning decals (for the helo hangar door) and some generic USN hull number decals (that hopefully will be arriving soon).

The one remaining thing I have not yet found though are suitable decals for deck markings, like the helo deck, the VERTREP area forward, and warning rings around weapons and such.  I know some company used to make a generic set of these, but it apears that they may have discontinued that line, so I will keep looking for now.  

I will try and post an image showing where I currently am tomorrow.

Pat

Did you notice something on the deck of the ship in your first photo? Down in the right hand (port on the ship) corner?

Aha!

Bill