Gamera

Bakster and others: Please keep with the updates. I'm going to try a wooden deck someday I hope and I really find this informative.

Hey Gam, for my part I will document things as I go. The guys have imparted some really good info and I am excited to try this. Tomorrow I will hit the hardware store to see what they have for stain. GM mentiond Nantucket or Drftwood, they look like great color options for my project. I am leaning towards Driftwood. I will see what they have.

That's great stuff guys!

Mach71: She looks good, hope she keeps coming along so well.

Bakster and others: Please keep with the updates. I'm going to try a wooden deck someday I hope and I really find this informative.

GMorrison

And label and keep the pieces for future reference.

Good thinking.

I will work towards getting some stain this week, then maybe start experimenting.

Bakster

 

 

goldhammer

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

 

 

Will do. Thanks...

 

 

 

goldhammer

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

Mach - looking good. nice job on thecompound curves and the sheet goods.

Bakster - as far as staining, practice for the look you want on the corners and areas of the deck sheeting where the planking isn't.

More sanding and putty application and sanding.

I brushed on some grey Tamiya surface primer/prep. It's drying now. Hopepully another

sanding sesion then I can start the final assembly. 

Thats it for a few days, work calls.

mach71

Bakster that decking really looks great! It should really make the ship.

Your sub is coming along great! Nice work!!!

And thanks Mach.

GMorrison

Yes, warpage. It can be a bit of a problem with spirit based stain too, so go lightly.

Scratchbuilding with thin wood shhets, it's good practice to stain both sides to cancel out the shrinkage, but when wood decks have adhesive already applied, that's clearly not possible.

Just to repeat what I've suggested before elsewhere, do not plan to have the deck lay flat by use of clamps and strength of adhesive. It will buckle up over time. Try to get the deck to kay flat of it's own accord before final attachment.

 

Hey Steve, that is very interesting about the water, and thanks for noting that. I'd be afraid to try that as well. Maybe I will be brave another time.

Thanks too for confirming about the sprue connections and what I'll need to do. That all helps. 

mach71,

  I am really impressed with he way you got that thin evergreen sheet to glue down on a Hull that curves in 2 directions.  Nice Work!

 I would have bungled it with bulges, bumps, and creases trying to get it to follow that curved Skipjack hull.

I recommend you be on the  look-out for an additional Skipjack kit. You are doing wonders with this one and there are plenty more "things" you can try with the Aurora Skipjack hull... Even the USS Skipjack.

     Nino.

 P.S.  I see you left out the Nuke power plant.  It's a Static model for sure now.

Bakster that decking really looks great! It should really make the ship.

As for me, just some sanding and I put down some water thined putty. Hopefully it will fill the tiny divots that don't seem to want to fill.

I hadn't thought of warpage, I've never attempted to stain them.

Bakster, yes you can "pop" it out but like you noted, there are small attachments to the "sprue" sheet. These points are very thin and will just break off. Cutting them should be very easy. The glue backing is VERY sticky but will lose some stickiness with finger oils. I have read that one way to apply the deck is with a little bit of water on the deck. The idea is you can adjust the wood deck properly, let it sit until the water dries and then press it down to seat it. I have never tried it because I was afraid that would ruin it, but I read that it works. 

Yes, warpage. It can be a bit of a problem with spirit based stain too, so go lightly.

Scratchbuilding with thin wood shhets, it's good practice to stain both sides to cancel out the shrinkage, but when wood decks have adhesive already applied, that's clearly not possible.

Just to repeat what I've suggested before elsewhere, do not plan to have the deck lay flat by use of clamps and strength of adhesive. It will buckle up over time. Try to get the deck to kay flat of it's own accord before final attachment.

Nino

 

 

Bakster

I received the wood decking this week. You are right Admiral; this stuff is really thin. It is pretty amazing. They included a chain as well.

So, when I am ready, I'll need to trim this stuff out.

GM--what do you think? Stain first then cut? Or is it best to cut then stain?

 

 

 

 

  Don't forget... don't use a water-based stain.

 

It's not a Starship, "WARP" speed not indicated.

 

Hey, This is a great "spool of threads", all in one spot. Thanks All!

   Jim.

 

 

Bakster

I received the wood decking this week. You are right Admiral; this stuff is really thin. It is pretty amazing. They included a chain as well.

So, when I am ready, I'll need to trim this stuff out.

GM--what do you think? Stain first then cut? Or is it best to cut then stain?

 

It's not a Starship, "WARP" speed not indicated.

Hey, This is a great "spool of threads", all in one spot. Thanks All!

   Jim.

Thanks Steve for the PE instructions. Looking good sir.

GMorrison

When you say "cut", isn't the deck already almost cut through? If not, that's a new one.

I should have been clearer. Yes, it appears to be scored from the back, but when I looked at it, the piece appeared to have connection points that I need to cut through like a sprue has. Maybe I need to look at it again. With not having used this product before I don't know how deep those cuts go, and if I'll need to finish them out, or if like what Steve said, they just pop out. I am probably making a mountain out of a molehill. I will let you know what I find when I get there.

And yes about the scrap, that is the plan. That is a concern of mine that staining will make it too dark. That is why my first thought was to try using a weak paint wash. I will test the stain first.

When you say "cut", isn't the deck already almost cut through? If not, that's a new one.

I don't think it matters which comes first. But having those scraps from the turret base locations etc. is useful. If you can separate those out, it's a good opportunity to test the stains to make sure it looks the way you want it. Once you apply the stain, there's no going back!

Wow! those are small parts! Looking nice!

Nothing got done on the Blueback today. :-(

Mark

Mach, the hull was OK, there were some seams and gaps but not inportant to me since it's going to be in a water base. Every superstructure join needed some work but not difficult.

Bakster

So, when I am ready, I'll need to trim this stuff out.

You should just need to pop it out, but doing some trimming may help as well.

Thanks Mach, Bakster, I did start working on some of the PE while adding all those fidily bits.

The Harpoon launchers have some PE to their cradles anf the bow has a little capstan brake wheels & spray shields as well as the hawse pipe cover rails. Most of the PE in this set are for railings and radars. I thought about removing the anchor chain but did'nt want to but some AM chain. I still may though.

My current tools are a flat pair of tweezers, a thin pair and some Flexy 5K CA. Great stuff for gluing PE!

The holes are filled, and the bars are knocked down.

Don't let the lighting fool you, the bars are all pretty much consistent in depth. I also had to repair some areas at the bow and stern where plastic didn't make it through the injection process. There was a little bit of flash here and there but nothing terrible.

I received the wood decking this week. You are right Admiral; this stuff is really thin. It is pretty amazing. They included a chain as well.

So, when I am ready, I'll need to trim this stuff out.

GM--what do you think? Stain first then cut? Or is it best to cut then stain?

That's all for now.

modelcrazy

Looking forward to that weathering Nick.

I'm intrested to see how that truns out Mach.

I finished filling and sanding the join of the deck and hull and ready to start attaching the small bits and PE.

 

 

Steve the Spruance is looking very nice! How did the hull go together?

Did you start the PE?

Thanks guys. I'm thinking it might actually get done now!

Some drastic work going on, but she is looking better all the time.

that is really starting to look the part. 

Sanding, sanding, sanding....

Lots of sanding.

I put a coat of primer on to see whats what.

Still more sanding to be done, but its working out better than I expected 24 hours ago.

Well, Good news bad news.

Everything glued down well and mostly true, but the glue! it's a mess!

I started sanding and it was not as bad as I thought.

I got my file set out and the small triangular file made a good trench along the plastic.

Now it's putty time.

The putty is drying now. 

It's not exactly the look I was going for, but it will work I think. After all the boat herself is far from perfect!

Looking good guys.  

modelcrazy

finished filling and sanding the join of the deck and hull and ready to start attaching the small bits and PE.

Admiral--if you would be so inclined--please share any PE processes and/or tips that you have. If easier for you, feel free to do so as you are working on it.

I have worked with PE on a limited basis and nothing like what I am stepping into with my Wisconsin build. I can see that this will require some serious patience and planning.

As for me and my project, I am sanding down the filler that I used to get rid of the dimples on the hull. I will post a few images this weekend.

Thanks.