AIRCRAFT - Battle of Britain Group Build (Jan 1st 2005 - May 31st 2005)

Thanks for the info guys, any ideas for the canopy? it is one piece but has anyone tried to cut it in half to have it open (so one can see a the detail n the cockpit).

Sean (WhytWolf) your hurricane looks nice, one question though, why paint the fuselage before you put it together? Also did you get a serial for YO*S? I have a reference for some BoB RACF 1sqdn hurricane codes and serials, I'll have to post it later.

Sean, Pretty nice work on the Hurricane. Should be a winner.

Jay, Best to replace the Hasegawa canopy with a Squadron Vac Form if you want it open. Even if you cut the kit canopy OK, I don't think it will fit properly in the open position.

Regards, Rick

Thanks Rick, I'm pretty happy with it so far!

Jay: I often paint my fuselage first and do touchups after, I find I can mate the camo lines better that way--does make for something of a mess at the seams, but I just need to pay attention to what I'm doing and be concientious

As for the fuselage codes, I'm making up the codes and the registration as I go--nothing official! All in all, this plane's less authentic and more a BoB 'though experiement' LOL

Sean

Anyone familiar with the Airfix Hurricane Kit:

The kit comes with a blunt and a more pointed spinner. Which one would more appropriate for a RCAF Hurricane? Canadian Hurricanes were made in Canada, were'nt they? THis would be for the No 1 Squadron Hurcs that arrived in the spring of 1940.

Actually, technically the Airfix prop hub doesn't fit the profile of either the RAF or the RCAF hub. A good idea of what the RCAF version looked like can be found here:

http://www.ultracast.ca/products/48/148/default.htm

I believe that the Juaguar resin AM kit for the 1/72 Hurricane has a RAF style prop, but I'm still waiting to get my detail set from GM, so I don't know for sure.

Truth be told, I think the Airfix 1/72 kit is pretty accurate except for that prop hub.

HTH

Sean

On Edit: As an aside, does anyone have any examples of RAF kill marking from the BoB (if there were any)? I'd like to add that detail to my Hurricane, but I don't know where to put them, or what they look like.

I need some assistance from the resident experts residing in this GB-any thoughts on how to achieve the follow paint scheme without using an airbrush? Thanks in advance.

Well here is what my research has found out:

From: High Flight Volume 1 No. 1
- This was a list at the end of an article about RCAF 1 Squadron in the BoB -

Code Serial

YO*G L1973
YO*B P2647
YO*S P3041
YO*? P3068 (crashed 1/9/40)
YO*A P3069
YO*C P3080 (shot down 15/9/40)
YO*D P3081
YO*S P3534 (shot down 11/9/40)
YO*U P3647
YO*E P3670
YO*F P3672
YO*G P3757
YO*B P3859
YO*H P3813
YO*T P3876 (shot down 15/9/40)
YO*Q P3883
YO*K P3963 (shot down 1/9/40)
YO*W R4109
YO*L R4171 (shot down (1/9/40)
YO*V V6603
YO*N V6605
YO*X V6609
YO*V V6651
YO*A V6669
YO*Z V6670 (shot down 11/9/40)
YO*L V6697
YO*J V6746
YO*Y V7287
YO*W V7288

YO*D 323 (This is was the only recorded Canadian built
hurricane to have actually participated in combat with
RCAF 1 Squadron during BoB)

I couldn't photocopy the source as the owner didn't want to lend me the mag so I had to write it down.

Aurora-7: As for the Canadian made hurricanes, as far as I could find in reading on the net and in my books, the canadian built 'canes were not up to RAF standards when they arrived in England in April 1940 and were replaced with RAF (UK made) machines. The one code in the list was noted that it was damaged enroute and when it was finally repaired it went straight to the unit who was at that time in the middle of combat and it was put into operational combat, whether any modifications were made to bring it up to RAF standards was not mentioned.

Sean: for kill markings, I don't know where I saw it but I remember seeing a hurricane mk1 with markings on it in a row under the canaopy on the port side and they looked like the luftwaffe crosses (like the ones on the fuselage). maybe that helps? oh yeah, the top pilots in RCAF 1 sqdn were E.A. McNab with 4 kills, McGregor also with 4, B.D. Russel with 3 and J.W. Kerwin also with 3. I can't find anywhere which planes they flew or if they had any personal aircraft.

I think I'll try to make my seat belts tonight. I love a good challenge
Thanks for the help guys.

EDIT
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As for the spinners on Canadian machines, Sean, as far as I could tell the MK2s had the spinner omitted and had the bare hubs as in your link. Aurora-7: on photos of mk1s, it looks like the blunt spinner was the norm and the pointed one was on mk2s. Hope this helps!

Ah, thank you jboutin! I found the 'YO" references, too but I could not find serial numbers. Now to find a decal source for the letter codes.

The prop on the RCAF Hurricanes was different as well. Closest match is one from a B-17.

Regards, Rick

QUOTE: Originally posted by KINGTHAD Tweety1, Are you looking for some future? If you are drop me a line maybe I can send ya some. Thad

Thanks for the offer Thad, but I think Tom's sending some over for us Aussies to use
I am curious though, in your experience, do thinners affect the Future coating???

Sometimes when I'm applying oil washes and removing the excess, the Pledge One Go that we use, similar to Future, will also start coming off.
It seems the thinners, whether they be oil or acrylic based, soften up the Pledge and it comes away from the model surface.
Does Future behav the same?
Or is it impervious to anything except Windex etc??

Build progress has slowed considerably on the 109.
Alot of hassles have come to light over the last few days and time is becoming a premium I don't have.
The way it looks, I'll be able to complete the 109, but the Defiant may not make it into the time frame.
Since the start of the week, I've managed to paint the upper wing camo, and the underwing 65, and thats it!!

Ah well, I knew reality would catch up on me sometime

Sean: I've found that the acetone from nail polish remover will remove Future and all the paint underneath as well--heck, if you use enough, I've seen acetone remove styrene!

Sean -- the wolfish one

Tweety, most thinners won't affect your paint job unless you are drinking them, then the out come of your camo suffers. The only thing I know of that affects cured future is ammonia and I guess acetone... normal enamel thinners, acrylic thinners and the linke don't harm it. I've never experienced it, but I am sure laquer thinner would do a number on it...

I'm with you on the time thing Tweety... work has got me running... of course a lot of it is me... I've been playing a lot with Linux lately trying to integrate it into a Novell network... kinda fun! But I forget where time goes and end up late...

No progress so far since the last update, thinking of trying the blue tak again... last time I was using it to secure the cut out of the paint instructions I scanned and use that as a mask... just gonna go for it this time.. might need to go buy some more though... judging from the pictures that other guy who calls himself Sean posted it's quite a lot!


---edit---

Oh yeah forgot to chime in on your dillema Bob... my only thoughts are a small flat bristled brush, or if you can get your hands on one of the tapered end brushes (like a flat brush but the tip is cut at about a 30 degree angle) you should be able to individually pick out those sweeps you see on the tail... just a quick touch should do it... for now that's all that comes to my mind! Maybe get your a sheet of paper and draw the tail on it and try it and hold it next to the pic and see how it compares... I wouldnt compare it until you are done though.. a lot of times with only a partly finished scheme it doesn't look right!

Tom, you may be able to get by with less Blue Tack than I did, but I find when I glob it on thick, it comes off easier than if I mask with tinner strips.

Sean -- "Calls himself! Calls himself! Hrumph"

nawww... if I do something I do it right! I'm the only one I know that uses a 5lb maul to drive tacks! Those things stay in there right good!

QUOTE: Originally posted by jboutin Thanks for the info guys, any ideas for the canopy? it is one piece but has anyone tried to cut it in half to have it open (so one can see a the detail n the cockpit). Sean (WhytWolf) your hurricane looks nice, one question though, why paint the fuselage before you put it together? Also did you get a serial for YO*S? I have a reference for some BoB RACF 1sqdn hurricane codes and serials, I'll have to post it later.

JB, I have the Hase Hurricane, but I have not built it yet. However, what I have read from quite a few build up reviews is that if you do (very carefully) cut the canopy, the sliding portion does not fit over the spine of the aircraft. What I plan on using is the squadron vac formed canopy, which I picked up for a couple of bucks. From what others have said, they use the front part of the Hase canopy and the rear part of the vac formed canopy. Hope this helps.

Sean, your Hurricane looks great and that is a brilliant idea with the dry transfers

Cheers
Darren

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod They are a Canadian firm. I order from their web site. www.ultracast.ca Regards, Rick

Rick

cheers for the link, I am most impressed at the fact there is two seats for $10 including delivery!

cheers

Mike

Tom,
Thanks for the advise-sounds like a plan. I'm planning on using acrylic for the upper black 'blotches'-should be easier to wipe off any mistakes....

Mike, I never said Ultracast was inexpensive, but they are excellent quality. I'm sure you'll be happy with their product. I've ordered from them numerous times & their sevice is first rate. I also like Cutting Edge, but they are even more expensive than Ultracast.

Regards, Rick

Wow, with all this Ultracast talk, I'm thinking I may need to pick up that 1/48 Hasegawa Hurricane and trick it out with some Ultracast resin.

Gotta support those Canadian businesses eh?

Darren and Rick, thanks for the kind words about my work. As I said, I'm very happy with houw this experiment is turning out.

Tom: I see that you're one of those 'if it's stuck hit it with a hammer, if it breaks it needed to be fixed anyways' kind of guys And here I was thinking we were a dying breed.....

Sean -- To a man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail....

Here is all the progress that I have made on my HE-111. After getting her glued up I can see I have alot of gap filling and sanding to do



Thad

Thad-I'm currently building the Monogram 1/48 He111-what brand/scale is yours? If it is the Monogram, it only gets worse when the wings are attached.

Oh, stop the whining about gaps & seams. That's why filler putty was invented I built the Monogram 1/48 He-111 when it was first released several years ago & it wasn't too bad. Is this one of the re-issues ? Tools may have deteriorated a bit, I suppose.

Regards, Rick

Come on Rick If I don't whine I wont have anything else to do. (I guess I could fill some gaps and sand).

Bob it is the Monogram kit, Thanks for the good news- oops I'm whineing again sorry Rick.

Thad

Whine away Thad, it's very good for the soul. Not as good as gnashing teeth & beating head against wall. Save that for your first Fonderie Miniatures kit .

Regards, Rick

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Oh, stop the whining about gaps & seams. That's why filler putty was invented I built the Monogram 1/48 He-111 when it was first released several years ago & it wasn't too bad. Is this one of the re-issues ? Tools may have deteriorated a bit, I suppose. Regards, Rick

Reissue-and deteriorated is bit of an understatement. I should be able to get an industrial discount on putty for this one......but that's how we perfect our skills, right?

We perfect our skills at whining if nothing else .

Regards, Rick

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Whine away Thad, it's very good for the soul. Not as good as gnashing teeth & beating head against wall. Save that for your first Fonderie Miniatures kit . Regards, Rick

Ever tried a PM kit? More filler than model! My vote for the worst kit ever is the PM Dagger/Nesher/Mirage III

Osher, I think your right. Looked in the box of a PM kit & it had 3 sprues with no parts & 4 tubes of filler . Never actually tried to build one though. I did tackle a couple of FM kits, but never again in this lifetime.

Regards, Rick

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Osher, I think your right. Looked in the box of a PM kit & it had 3 sprues with no parts & 4 tubes of filler . Never actually tried to build one though. I did tackle a couple of FM kits, but never again in this lifetime. Regards, Rick

LOL! Sounds about right! Actually, it's a pity as they produce some interesting kits, including a Spitfire floatplane, and a 1/72 Flagon. Actually, the Flagon can (with filler, files, scratchbuilding and patience) be made into a really nice model (I built one in December).

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Mike, I never said Ultracast was inexpensive, but they are excellent quality. I'm sure you'll be happy with their product. I've ordered from them numerous times & their sevice is first rate. I also like Cutting Edge, but they are even more expensive than Ultracast. Regards, Rick

Rick

I think they are fairly inexpensive and will certainly order a pair of seats. Should spice up the Monogram kit immensely!!

CE is good, I used a CE resin seat in a Italeri F-5E and was blown away by the detail

cheers

Mike