Moto GP group build '05

haha, last picture is crazy!

Bike looks really good. You've done a great job mastering the yellow paint job wich can be troublesome. I love the Camel liveries and therefor I love this build!

/Joel

So, I finally finished my last build in this GB (the fifth...) This is the ride of the late Dajiro Kato who died in an accident in the early races of the 2003 moto GP season.

Pretty straight forward although I've added a few details here and there, on the rear side of the front wheel and on the right side foot peg panels, to be exact.

Paint and decal job was aweful, I stripped the paint ones as it became too dark. I resprayed mist coats over a silver base and it turned out much better.
Decals was really tricky and they cracked all over. I had an extra sheet that I used to fix the major gaps but it is clearly visible at the tank dummy/side cowling intersect.

Winter is comming and the lighting was really bad today, sorry for the image quality. I also noticed I'd forgot to paint the inside of the mufflers. Will take care of that ASAP.

Enjoy,
best regards
Joel

Hi Joel

 Nice work. I am surprised you had such trouble with the decals, normally one cannot fault the Tamiya / Cartograph sets.  I hope by you saying this is your last bike in this build that you mean we will not see your work again! I love your attention to  detail.

Heck no, I'm too stuck in this line of modeling to quit now. I've got 30+ bike kits laying around staring at me to get finished.

I am surprised about the decal quality as well, they were actualy fragile like older Museum Collection decals and didn't stand some preassure from a damp towel wich is usually my way of dealing with tricky decals. Cracked and lost flakes all over. Turned out OK though and I think I could have put the checkered pieces in place in a different order.

Over and out.

Joel

Checkmate598,

 Sorry I missed your reply...didn't see it. The "brembo" decals sound like a good idea, I'll look into it.

Joel,

 I tried stripping the paint and repainting the recessed lettering...I made it worse! lol!

No problem, this is my first model in at least, 10 years.

I'll buy a new one to use the calipers and practice techniques on other parts, the best thing about this whole deal is how much I've learned in the process, I'm hooked and I can't wait to build more.

How can I post pictures of my little project?

Thanks everybody for your input, I've learned a lot!

racer155

Joel,

 The Telefonica looks great!  I really like how you got the blue what looks to be just the right shade.  I did Sete's RC a little while back and am tempted to strip and refinish after seeing yours.  The Tamiya "Telefonica Blue" just turned out too dark on mine.  I was wondering, how do you get that outstanding finish on your front brakes?  My Duc's done, didn't turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and certainly not as good as some I've seen here.  Decal problems here too, you see.  I'll post some FAR AWAY pics when I get the camera unloaded. 

Thanks Yamafreak for your comments, glad to hear you liked it!

About the blue I agree on it being troublesome, I too stripped it ones... My winner here was to put down a few VERY light coats on top of a SILVER base. Silver adds to the color and covers the base coat so that you don't have to work your *** off for the blue to cover. I just made my coats of blue that light that I covered the silver all over and then worked up the shine with some clear.

 I wouldn't go as far as stripping a finished bike but try it on your next Teléfonica bike and you'll be surprised!

/Joel

Sorry my frien, I missed out on you're question about the front brakes. I do my brakes in a few steps. First I have a good look at reference photos as there are always details that Tamiya and others leave out. I plan ahead for wich of them to have on my model. Then I spray the color of the center part as I think that one is the easiest to mask off afterwords. I mask it off with Maskol or Tamiya tape and spray the actual disc part. As they often are to be painted with metallic paint I think it doesn't look too good if the disc is hand painted as it is easy to get brush marks.

Before detailing I use a TINY brush to paint the washers and on this particular build reference pictures told me to do the red inner circular part on the right wheel hub.

On this build I chose to do a wheel nut pin out of thin wire and attaching it to the canister with thin sewing thread. I did the sensor out of fishing line and some Tamiya tube+plastic parts.

There's a new actor on the market, Top Studio, that does these shock sensors to be added parallell to the forks, they look great and I have to try them on future GP builds.

/Joel

Thanks Joel, that helps a lot...I'll do my research on Maskol....sounds like liquid masking...

I'm interested in the little tiny details as well...I'll try to come up with something!

What build is this one you talk about, the one with the red inner hub?

I'd like to see pix!

Thanks a lot!

Marcelo

Sure, glad I can help.

For the red inner hub section, have a look at the fourth picture of my Teléfonica build above, there you can spot it on the front wheel. I acutally don't know what it is there for but it's visible on the rcv:s from 03 atleast. Nice touch to it.

/Joel

racer155. It frustrated me initally as I could not find how to post pics, you would think there would be a guide in the FAQ section from the site but I could not find anything.  What you need to do is firstly go to www.photobucket.com and set up an account (it's quick and easy and FREE!). Once you have the photos you want to post you then have to load them into your photobucket site, again the instructions are easy to follow though it takes a bit of time.

Then when you are ready to post your pics, open up a reply page as normal, there is an option to attach a file or link in one of the icons, click this. You can then copy the file link from you photobucket account for each pic, make sure you use the .img file as this will give a thumbnail / preview in the page, and paste this into the document. Post as normal.

 I may have confused things a bit, I am sure you will get the hang of it once you try it out.

Check this out guys, makes me want to dump every kit I have built so far!

 http://www.mediamixhobby.com.sg/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4338

Yes, I saw that in another thread a couple of days ago. Really impressiv although I think it is a skilled builder who have done it, it will probably not jump together that nice without some struggling.

Seems more worth the 60 bucks than the Renaissance detail set for the M1 though.

/Joel

Howzit guys,

Back after an absence, but see you've been busy! Great builds - I'm not going to name all individually.

Anybody done the Spiderman bike yet? I've just started and with the SMS decal set... WHAT an eye-opener! Those guys must have some midgets and ferries working for  them - the web-decals are actually seperated strands with NO clear decal holding them together!! Likewise the honeycomb decals are like chicken fence. Absolute amazing... Absolute hell (for me) to apply, though... Esp the first one was screwed up a bit when it caught me totally off-guard. This is going to be a loooong decalling job, hope I do it justice. 

Those detail sets look great. Read somewhere they'll be bringing out an 04 one also soon, which will suit me just fine! Looking forward to the Konica-Minolta coming out next year as well! 

Those detail sets look great. Read somewhere they'll be bringing out an 04 one also soon, which will suit me just fine! Looking forward to the Konica-Minolta coming out next year as well! 

I missed the cutoff at HLJ for the early bird to order the Minolta RC, but I may just go ahead anyway.  I was looking forward to Nakano's Kawi.  Anybody heard anything?

Bushpig,

thanks for the info, I'll do the photobucket deal...soon I'll post some of my pix.

Later...

I can't remember who in this forum uses an airbrush...but I'd like to know what airbrush is recommended for bikes, also, what compressor to use with it.

My local hobby shop suggested using the Model Master Aztec A4702 or A4709, made of plastic and looking awfully cheap didn't convince me....Then I was shown the A4809 made of metal....

As for the compressor, they showed me the Model Master one "no moisture trap"....

Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Racer155

Racer, I have used a badger 200 NH internal mix for the last 10 years. I switch between a medium and fine needle/nozzle set up for all my spraying. I hardly paint anything with a brush anymore. I like this model because you set the paint volume with a screw fine adjuster. I had a  dual action brush before and found it harder to get consistent results.

As for the compressor anything will do, till I could afford one I used a car tyre, though the trips to the garage to charge it were annoying!

I use a Paasch VL for general painting (dual action) and a single action for detail work.

If you live in aust'a go to A1 Auto or Bunnings and buy a compressor for about $100 with airtank. As good as any specialist set up. 

I use a Badger 200 IL Internal mix airbrush and I have been using it since 1983 (about 23 years now).

I have not had any problems with the Badger and use it for 99% of my modelling from fine sparying to clear and gloss coats. I just use the standard needle and find it gives me a great finish. I do also have a new Holbein double action airbrush and a brand new Badger 200 IL, both of which I bought years ago but never use them really since I have become so accustomed to the old Badger and it works every time, but you must be sure to clean the airbrush well after each use irrespective of which brand you finally decide to buy

thanks everybody for your input!...I'll go back to my local hobby shop and get my airbrush next week!

Thanks again,

Racer155

 Progress on the Yamaha YZR500 1980 of  Cretto using the Legends Decal sheet. The sheet is really nice with  good adhesion and responds very well to the decal solutions (MR Mark Softner).

The final effect is a "paint on" look, will post more photos as the build progresses, but a pleasent change from the usual diet of RCV and M1's but boy has technology chande in the past 25 years

Ok, so I read about the technique behind priming and painting the models....I'm working on the primer but it seems that every time I sand them for the next mist of primer, I go back to the plastic!

Also, it balls up on my sandpaper!!!!.....

How many coats of primer and how smooth you guys make it before painting?

I'm using Tamiya flat gray primer #1237....

Thank you,

Racer155

Hi Guys. I have just finished the M1 with gauloises markings. I used the tamiya details set, the Studio 27 set , Renaisance decals and CF decal. I tried my hand at scratch building what I refer to as "the red thing" on the right front shock / brake caliper, can anyone shed some light on what this actually is?

I also remembered I promised to show the test bike I did, I used the same sets for this as well. I added the cold weather brake shrouds which may not be correct but adds a visual point of difference, apologies to the rivet counters!I think this completes the 2004 trio? I will have to take a break for a while as I am moving back home soon. Till next time Adios.

Bushpig,

 HOLY CRAP, MAN!  Some of the nicest M1's I've seen!  LOVE the C/F test version, might have to do it myself...someday.  I'm reasonably sure from the photos I've seen that the "red thing" is a sort of sliding potentiometer to measure what the front suspension is doing at a given time.  For example, if it senses that the front suspension is at the end of it's travel (extended) it will relay this to the computer which will most likely figure the bike is wheely-ing and cut power to the engine by retarding the spark slightly.  Pretty sure it monitors a lot more than just that, and I'm surely no expert, but some of the things I've read seem to point to wheely control as one of the functions.  Interestingly, I also read recently that GP bikes are rumored to have a GPS-based system that not only monitors where the bike is on the track, but can adjust the fuel injection mapping accordingly.  Less power in the twisties, more in the straights etc. 

Bushpig: I agree with Yamafreak, HOLY CRAP! That CF work is amazing! I will desperately need a "how-to" on that one. Any images on how you went about doing it? For example, how many pieces did you use for say the side cowl? I would love to be able to do such crazy cf work...

 As Yamafreak sais the "redish" stuff on the front fork is a stroke sensor that reads in what end the sliding part is located. It will work with other sensors to give the rider most power in any given situation.

Racer 155: About the primer, don't sand the primer at all if you don't have any thing you have to correct. Perhaps you can go over it very gently after your last coat but I never do if I haven't got dust or hair in the paint. I usually just spray primer until the underlaying plastic is covered, usually takes one or two sessions. 

/joel

Hi all,

Just looking at the MotoGP testing in Jerez, and I spotted this. Its Rossi's 800 test bike and hes got new "Excalibur" livery (something about signifying his fight back for the 07 title  - I dont quite get it myself but hey ho).

Anyway I know a few of you here have made test versions before, so I just thought Id post up a few of the pics I found if youre interested. No doubt there'll be more available as the test progresses over the next few days.

Here they are, enjoy ;)

Hi Nick

Nice pics, I feel a build coming on sometime in 2007/8, so many versions still to go! I have narrowed my building down to Rossi kits only at the moment and am happy there will be bikes to build for at least a year after he retires! I hope Rennaisance or someone brings out a kit of his Subaru at the WRC in New Zealand last week. My collection so far of Rossi bikes is at 11 complete, by my calculation at least another 7 that I know of, and thats just to the end of this season!

To the others thanks for the compliments, my building improves all the time and I have derived so much inspiration and techniques from all of you to help this along. I have explained before my approach to the CF application (when I posted the Rossi NSP test bike a few weeks ago). Unfortunately I dont take pics whilst I am building so cant share much more with you. As for the size and shape I try to keep the pieces as big and as natural as possible but wary of trying to bend the decal around too many shapes, thus causing kinks or distortion, it's just trial and error. Not as hard as you make out Joel, I have marvelled at some of the CF you have done on smaller parts, just scale it up!