P-47 Thunderbolt GB

WOW Jerry...Just WOW.

Jerry, OMG! Amazing! I really like your interior. It looks awesome! I don't know if it is the drybrushing or what, but there is something about it that just sucks me in. Can you explain your technique?

Also, I really like the mottled OD; it really gives it a great faded look. In doing it, how much contrast was there before the clearcoats? I am trying to get a sense of how much to contrast it and how much clear coats will tone it down.

Overall and amazing build!

 

Joshua, I agree with Jerry's idea. I think if you could overspray with a highly thinned regual OD, it would help blend it all together, but still allow some contrast.

Leon

Jerry.........Wow! Your T-bolt looks stunning! I absolutely love the finish on her-beautiful! As for the office, you have once again done an amazing job. Top notch!

Well, after a great weekend, I made it back to the workshop and did this,



Some touches are needed here and there but for the most part, the paintwork is done. Some of the stripes need a little straightening though. Still, its OK for a first attempt!

I'm decorating the kitchen this week, so not much else will get done for a bit, I'll check in when the jobs are done.

Bye for now,


Darren.

Thanks alot guys for the good words.

Leon....the cockpits in all my models are my favorite part of the build. I try to airbrush as much as I can to keep everything smooth, and leave the brush painting to just the details. It's really just basic techniques like washes, drybrushing, and shading that gives me the end result. Most everything I do, I've learned on this web site.

As for the OD topside paint, after the base color was applied,  I lightened it a little and sprayed it lightly in a random fashion, then lightened it somemore, and was a little more selective as to where I would choose to add some fading.  For instance, the top of the cowl, the top spine of the fuselage, and other high spots. Anywhere on the airplane that would get more sun. I then stepped back and looked at the model with a critical eye. I didn't want to over do it, so I took some heavily thinned base color, and did some blending. I'm not sure that was necessary, but I think it's best to keep the over all effect on the subtle side.  I was very happy with the results. Then, I sprayed the clear coats, and it definitly toned it down some more. I was afraid you wouldn't be able to see any fade effect at all. But, if you look close, it's still there. Just look at your paint job as you go along... you'll know if you've gone too far or not.

Darren....the invasion stripes look great. I wussed out and chose a subject that did'nt wear the stripes. Nice job.

Can't wait to see some pics guys,

Jerry

Darren – Looks real nice. I see the touch up you mention you need.  Some bleed under the tape as panel lines.  A trick I learned when I was doing RC planes, with multiple taped masking sometimes 4 or 5 feet long, was to spray a coat of clear before the color coat.  If something were to run under the tape it would be the cleat and it sealed to “leaky” spot.

Wow everone is progessing nicely Im sorta stalled on mine and took a break to work on a simpler fun type project to avoid burn out.  Its a quick builder and Ill be back to finish my P-47 real quick.  Most impressive Dragonfly very nice build.

I wouldn't worry about your strips being a little off, about two years ago FSM ran a picture of someone painting the strips on with a paint brush in 1944. Remember they had little time to do it in and most could not go through the paint shop.

Any suggestions on what Tamiya paint color to use for the gray bottom on the P-47? Thanks

grandadjohn wrote:

I wouldn't worry about your strips being a little off, about two years ago FSM ran a picture of someone painting the strips on with a paint brush in 1944. Remember they had little time to do it in and most could not go through the paint shop. Any suggestions on what Tamiya paint color to use for the gray bottom on the P-47? Thanks

I used XF 53 it is a little dark though

Thanks dragonfly

Got some future on my bird and a little pre-wash done.

 

 

Thad

Man ...that future coat looks great. I tried using future once for a gloss coat, and it beaded up on me. What's the secret to that beautifully smooth surface. Also, I'm happy to see you're pre-shading. I personally really like the way it looks when it's finished. Great work Thad.

I am no expert on future, but what works for me is light coats. the stuff dry's fast so you dont have to keep loading your a/b. The shading might look a little heavy in the pic but when Im done it will look alot lighter..... maybe

 

Thad

Thad, the build looks good. Is it going to be bare metal? I ask because I have read about using future as the base - I'm curious how it turns out. Also, I agree it looks great (nice and shiny); I am another who doesn't have consistantly great results with future. Lately, I have been thinning it with Tamiya thinner and it has seemed to help a lot, but still not exactly the results I want.

Darren, the stripes look good. Mine came out the same way and I had to adjust them a few times before I was happy. I think the really hard part of the razorback is that the stripes look straight or not straight depending on the angle you are to the razorback - nearly drove me crazy...

Anyway, here is a picture (I'm sure many have seen) of the stripes being put on a spitfire. I know that with this information stripes don't necessarily have to be perfect, but still on a model I make, I want perfect stripes...do others feel the same??

Leon

 Leon, you guest correcly, it is going to be BMF. As for the future I did not thin it, just sprayed soft-light coats. I am in the same boat as you on the stripes and Im not looking forward to doing them.For me I like perfect stripes and brushed on stripes as long as it looks pleasing to me.

 

Thad

Still way behind schedule but got more PE folded and glued and some painting done on the cockpit while stuff dries on my 190.  Nothing worth taking and pics of yet.

Well .....I pulled out a real P47 oldie (1967) out of my stash to try some different color mixes to get the OD faded look. This kit is awfull and I literally slapped it together in 2 days. I wasn't concerned with seams or anything else, I simply wanted to try some more painting. I will post some pics soon, but what I thought would be cool would be to line up four jugs and take a photo. The junker in the rear of course.

How's everyone else doing?

Jerry

Hi guys!

I've been really busy at work but I'm ready to start now. Sorry I'm late. You guys have made some beautiful stuff.

This is what I've got to work with.

Johan, glad you've joined us. The Aires resin sets are very nice. Watch the landing gear doors. My copy had broken attachment points. I had to fix them with tiny bits of wire. Also, you must sand the tops of the wheel wells to the point where you can almost see thru them to get them to fit in the wing. Can't wait to see some progress pics.

Jerry

Hello chaps,

I managed to escape to my workshop for the afternoon and started to correct the invasion stripes.....Aaahhh! its sooo fustrating...I have tried all sort of tricks to get it right. :(

In the end, a combination of masking, airbrushing and touch-ups has helped. Now I need to sort out the overspray........
Wish me luck, I need it!

Darren.

Stick with it Darren. I know you'll prevail. I can't wait for some PICS.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry,

I did some more work on the fuselage stripes today, its getting there slowly. I will have to touch up some of the OD as well as the white overspray gets everywhere. Once I get past this bit, the rest will fall into place and I'll be able to post some pics of progress instead of failiure!

I cheered myself up by playing with a Spitfire this evening, while my stripes dry!

I'm off to work for a week, so I won't get much done until my week off, but I'll watch out for everyone else while I'm away.

See you later,

Darren.

dragonfly wrote:

Well .....I pulled out a real P47 oldie (1967) out of my stash to try some different color mixes to get the OD faded look. ... Jerry

I look forward to seeing pics Jerry. Your last build was so nice, it will be nice to learn more techniques from you :-)

 

Johan, You have some pretty nice stuff there to add. I look forward to progress shots...

 

Darren, I look forward to your progress. Those stripes are a pain, huh! I agree, though, once you get past that hurdle, it will probably be a nice easy finish :-). What spit are you working on? (I have a tamiya mk1 going myself)

Hope all is well with everyone.
Leon

dragonfly wrote:

Joshua, I'm not sure what you're after here. Did you brush paint, trying to get a " in-the-field touch-up" kind of look? Even so, you may have gone with a little too much contrast. Maybe lightly shoot a thinned down version of your base color over what you have. That way, you'll still have some contrast yet tone it down a bit. Sort of a blend coat, if you will. Jerry

Thanks Jerry. I did just that and it came out reallly well. Once the red trim is on, this bird will be done with it's painting.

Because my Academy Tbolt was so much taller than my Revell Tbolt, I decided to shorten the legs on my Academy model. I cut out about a centimeter out from the middle of the gear legs and glued the two halves together. I dry fited the legs the other day, and realized I made a huge Rookie mistake. I glued the two halves 90 degrees off , so the wheels are sideways. Doh! Wouldn't be the first time, either. Anyhow, I suppose it's a good thing I have an old Heller P-47 in the stash, I'll use those legs.

Question: I'm doing one Tbolt in a NMF, and I'm going to use AlcladII. Swanny's website says to use Krylon Gloss Black as a primer. Will any brand gloss paint work? Does it have to be Krylon, and does it have to be black? Also, I thought that we wanted our primers to have a rough surface to help the paint stick (with enamels anyhow). When I prime with Future, I lightly spray it to get a fine, rough surface (when I'm applying enamels). Could I apply a smooth Future finish as primer for AlcladII? How does AcladII stick on a smooth surface?

Joshua

Jabbe wrote:

Because my Academy Tbolt was so much taller than my Revell Tbolt, I decided to shorten the legs on my Academy model. I cut out about a centimeter out from the middle of the gear legs and glued the two halves together. I dry fited the legs the other day, and realized I made a huge Rookie mistake. I glued the two halves 90 degrees off , so the wheels are sideways. Doh! Wouldn't be the first time, either. Anyhow, I suppose it's a good thing I have an old Heller P-47 in the stash, I'll use those legs. Joshua

Don't forget that the P-47 was equipped with telescopic landing gear to accomodate the huge 4 bladed propeller which might explain the different height between the two kits.  Here is my referrence for that tidbit from Swanny Model's website.  http://www.swannysmodels.com/TamiyaP47D.html

I have included a snippet from his writeup here:

"The conventional three-bladed propeller could not efficiently utilize the power of the new engine and a four-bladed propeller was adopted. Incidentally, the P-47 served as the first test stand for this propeller. Although this propeller was an admirable solution to the power gearing of the engine, there remained the problem of providing sufficient ground clearance for its 12-foot diameter. Republic had to design a telescopic landing gear, which was nine inches shorter when retracted than when extended."

Jabbe wrote:

dragonfly wrote: Joshua, I'm not sure what you're after here. Did you brush paint, trying to get a " in-the-field touch-up" kind of look? Even so, you may have gone with a little too much contrast. Maybe lightly shoot a thinned down version of your base color over what you have. That way, you'll still have some contrast yet tone it down a bit. Sort of a blend coat, if you will. Jerry Thanks Jerry. I did just that and it came out reallly well. Once the red trim is on, this bird will be done with it's painting. Because my Academy Tbolt was so much taller than my Revell Tbolt, I decided to shorten the legs on my Academy model. I cut out about a centimeter out from the middle of the gear legs and glued the two halves together. I dry fited the legs the other day, and realized I made a huge Rookie mistake. I glued the two halves 90 degrees off , so the wheels are sideways. Doh! Wouldn't be the first time, either. Anyhow, I suppose it's a good thing I have an old Heller P-47 in the stash, I'll use those legs. Question: I'm doing one Tbolt in a NMF, and I'm going to use AlcladII. Swanny's website says to use Krylon Gloss Black as a primer. Will any brand gloss paint work? Does it have to be Krylon, and does it have to be black? Also, I thought that we wanted our primers to have a rough surface to help the paint stick (with enamels anyhow). When I prime with Future, I lightly spray it to get a fine, rough surface (when I'm applying enamels). Could I apply a smooth Future finish as primer for AlcladII? How does AcladII stick on a smooth surface? Joshua

Joshua,you definitely want to use a high gloss black for your base coat under Alclad. Krylon is a laquer and is ideal, but it's recomended that you decant the laquer into a small bottle and apply it with your airbrush. You wont get as smooth a finish with the big spray can. Because it's a pain and potentially messy to decant, I use MM gloss black enamel for my base coat. Under Alclad, the smoother, the better. I've even rubbed out the black with rubbing compound to eliminate even the slightest bit of orange peel. Ideally, you want it absolutely glass like smooth. Alclad is a laquer and will bond very well to either Krylon or MM enamel so don't worry about it not sticking. I've also had good results with future as a base coat, but because it's clear, you get a slightly different shade than over black, which can be desirable. The main thing to keep in mind is, no matter what you use for a base coat, make sure it is completely dry, cured, and glass like smooth. 48 hours is what I use. If you don't, it will crack. Also, apply with multiple thin mist coats. Don't flood your model with Alclad. Mist it on. Alclad is a wonderfull product. Good luck and show some pics.

Jerry

I thought it might be interesting to see the sequence pics of this fading technique. I'm certainly no expert at this, cause ti's all new to me. I've tried this twice now, with the same bone head results. Fortunately, this is an old junker.

base coat

fade coat

gloss coat

As you can see, the clear coat almost completely elliminates the entire effect. The next time I do this, I will try to exaggerate the fade a little more. Mmmmm...maybe that Mitchell I've been wanting to build.

Cheers,

Jerry

Okay, forgive me!! I've got the day off, and since I don't have a life, I thought I'd play with my camera and post this just for fun.

I never set out to build 4 T-bolts but nevertheless, here they are.

Jerry

dragonfly wrote:

Okay, forgive me!! I've got the day off, and since I don't have a life, I thought I'd play with my camera and post this just for fun. I never set out to build 4 T-bolts but nevertheless, here they are. Jerry

Oh man, that's a gorgeous line up of P47s you have there.  Very nice!

Some people obviously have too much free time

Jerry, I still think that the fading looks good, despite of the partial elemination by the glosscoat, after all, subtelty is what we're after isn't it ?

DanCooper wrote:

Some people obviously have too much free time Jerry, I still think that the fading looks good, despite of the partial elemination by the glosscoat, after all, subtelty is what we're after isn't it ?

Quite right, subtle is the word. I guess what I was really trying to demonstrate is the fact that the clear coat definitely affects the overall outcome. I think my minds eye was seeing a little more fade. WWII olive drab was very susceptible to fading.

Jerry