Thanks guys, I wasn't too worried about making the RLM 75 perfect, and won't worry about the RLM74 too much either as it's all about the pre-shade. My goal is to have the two colors show through enough to give it a realistic, slightly worn whitewash look to it. It did give me a chance to practice with my new tip and needle. I picked up a much finer tip and needle at my LHS (High Sierra Hobbies) the other day and figured I'd give it a try.
The new tip and needle are great for very precise work (mottling etc.) but I was having a heck of a time with it last night as the paint just would not flow through it very well. I may have to look at thinning my paint more when I use that setup. In fact, the first time I tried to spray before dinner, the paint just wouldn't flow other than just a very brief splat each time I pulled the trigger back. Very frustrating, but thankfully I always test spray on some scrap paper to make sure the mix is good and the A/B is functioning properly before I risk messing up my model. I ended up dumping out the RLM75 mix, completely dismantling the A/B and cleaning it. I always thoroughly clean my A/B so I was a bit perplexed that I was having any problems .
Anyway, got everything put back together, mixed up a new batch with more thinner this time (maybe 40% instead of the 30% I used originally) and it sprayed much better, but it's very difficult to get full coverage over large areas with that tip combo. Also, until I got the air pressure just right I wound up with a couple of heavy mottles, but again, it's mostly going to be covered up by the white so I didn't sweat it. I'll need to master this new setup though for future mottling work. I'll need to buy a medium tip and needle for the bigger camo and solid color jobs. I can probably squeak by for a bit with my old needle, but it is showing some wear.
I'm still trying to figure out the more advanced tricks with my double action A/B and learned some good lessons about tips last night! As a side note, I have a Ju 88A-4 which I'll be building soon with the splinter scheme and the wave pattern (spaghetti) of light gray on top and dark gray on the bottom. I practiced spraying the spaghetti striping and was able to pull it off! I'm stoke, I'm going to try to freehand that for the Bombergruppe GB.
As far as the white wash is concerned. I'm still trying to decide how to approach it. I was debating whether to add a little gray, or maybe just a touch of light brown. What do you all think? I can't find any color pictures of any white washed 109s, so it's hard for me to tell how the paint held up under combat conditions and what dinge it picked up over time, know what I mean?
I will use the fine tip to spray the white though as I think I'll be able to get just the look I want. I need to study the few black and white photos that I do have so I'll make the whitewash thinner and more irregular in the high traffic areas, like the wing roots etc. I have maybe 5 or 6 pics out at least dozen 109 reference books... guess the cameras didn't work too well at 20 degrees below zero on the Eastern Front