Moto GP / GP bike enthusiasts

Looking really good Invertman. Clean and subtle! Engine looks great. Keep it coming!

And again, welcome to the GB!

/Joel

Hi guys!

I would like some of your kind insights on two issues.

1. Tire decals. I never seem to get these ones to stick properly. No problem to lay them down but they always seem to roll up in the ends or just crack somewhere in the middle. Also I see a lot of modelers weathering the tyres and in that way sealing the decals in. Have you tried this, and if so what kind of paint did you use and with what result?

2. Golden forks. With the PE fork sets entering the arena Tamiya has put some preassure on us who want to be kind of old school and skip those expensive (cheating?!) parts. The range of Tamiyas golden colors is leaving me unsatisfied but I've read about someone painting clear orange over silver leaving a great golden color. Have you tried this and is it as easy as painting clear orange over a silver leaf base or is there some other trick to it?

/Joel

Hey Invertman, as Joel says nice work and in such a short space of time even more inspiring. I am just so slow by comparison!

Joel I can answer on the first question. I found them a bit tricky in the beginning. I tend to try and slice the carrier as close to the actual decal as possible, this allows easier placement. I then lightly press down into place with a blunt toothpick and then with the rounded back of a nail, gently does it! My final trick is to then wet out the tissue backing and allow it to soak for a few seconds, then gently peel it off. I find wetting it out allows it to release so much easier thus avoiding lifts, curls and cracks like I used to get. I have never sealed the decals before. I must say I have only ever successfully applied the alternate Michelin decal (in the blue square as opposed ot the Michelin Pilot letters) once, dont know why I just cant seem to get them to work. Hope this helps.

Second one I have sprayed clear orange onto silver before (cant remember which kit specified it) but it does not come anywhere close to the metal part. Not sure if Alclad has a suitable colour in the their range.

Thanks for your inputs Bushpig. My problem is most often not to attach the decal per se but rather to get them to stick. But I'll see where your tricks can get me.

Regarding the painting of forks I've seen some beautiful results but I can't seem to remember where. THe PE parts are great looking but I can't lay aside that it makes the whole building process a bit easy.

/Joel

Joel,
Re getting decals to stick to tyres, for the model pictured, I applied Klear (Future) to the area of the tyre where the decal would be and let it dry. This will give the decal a good surface to grip to. Then applied the decal and let that dry. Applied more Klear over the decal to seal it. And finally when that was dry, lastly I applied a flat coat over it to take off any shine. Worked fine for me.


Have just gotten back into my modelling chair recently after a long absence and hope to post up a few progress pics of the Aprilia soon.

thanks guys for the kind words.

i ordered the tamiya detail-up front fork set

for the yamaha.

i should get it tomorrow.

jason.

Time for some updates on the green monster don't you think?

I've painted the frame and swing arm black and then Alclad II polished alu but I haven't taken pictures of them yet. I started the preparation of the rims. This is somewhat hard to explain... ZX-RR rims are similar to the M1 rims but they are drilled out on the sides facing the next spoke and not on the side towards the viewer when looking at the bike from the side. I have no idea on how to drill them out but I decided to atleast fill the M1 rims. I used mr Hobby putty wich looked like this:

When sanded out it turned out like this. Ready for some primer and some extra filling and sanding.

The white metal suspension is a really ugly piece. Can't think of how to paint that spring.

...so I cut it off and will put some brass tubing and a spare spring into it instead.

Engine block is, as you know by now, molded in one piece. This call for some painting extravaganza if compared to the Tamiya kits. As I mentioned before I've painted the air box, and the sliders that go inside the frame, black. The air box got some cf treatment after that.

I've picked out two spots that have bigger areas to cover with other paints than Alclad. It is the clutch plate and the oil sump. From my references (read Pitwalk collection) it is pretty hard to determine the exact color to use and I must say I'm a bit so so regarding my final choice. As you can see from the following pictures the clutch plate got some desert yellow and the sump got navy grey. I think both should have been slightly darker but who will notice :dunno: :dunno:

Front fender (wich weighs it's fair amount...) has been painted black and then cf:ed. Dunlop markings from the kit sheet.

Last but not least (though it is kind of small...) the tachometer has also been painted black and got some cf added. This will get the meter added from the pe sheet and also a bracket on the back side.

/Joel

The story continues... Bad images but some progress on the etch details.

Engine and Clutch cover. I had some bad luck with the Alclad II Polished aluminum this time. I think I put it on too close to the black paint and it came out like chrome. It looks terrible but I will not go through all the steps again to make it better. You have to live with this guys...

Chain

Close up..

Link sections is made out of four sets of etched images of the whole chain linkage. Inner two (containing the sprockets) was painted navy grey and the outer two was painted the same solid green as the livery. The chain etch contains four tiny holes so that you can put a wire through each hole and in that way align the four pieces. In theory at least as the etch is SO fragile around the holes so that it bends as soon as you touch it (Have I mentioned my fingers doesn't play the piano...??) I got them together alright anyhow. The rear sprocket has two extra pieces to give it some depth and the front sprocket has a bolt head attached.

Chain will get some wash and is then ready.
/Joel

I guess I'll just keep posting

Finished the scratch built pipes off with some Alclad II and installed them with super glue on the engine.

I wheathered them slightly with the Tamiya wheathering station burnt metal and burnt blue.

Frame is a story of its own... I spent some time during prep work to bend it right but during painting it must have set again. Making it somewhat straight took off most of the alumium paint and I have to repaint that before I can continue. As the airbox and engine is one piece the frame can't be finally assembled until the engine part is ready for mounting.

/Joel

Niiiice work Joel! Can't believe that's the same chunk of resin engin you showed us initially!

Been quiet this side, slowly crawling forward at times on the M1. Quick reference question though... The piece at the bottom of the rear cowling for the M1's, right down the middle - well, the part you see if you look at the bike from low angle at the rear, above the wheel. I can't get a nice enough shot. In short - is it black (as I suspect) or blue?

Apart from that - anybody here worked with Crazy Modeler's decals before? I've just done the two-part seat decals... Absolutely awesome decals! Very soft, so must be handled with care, but it's stunning stuff! Here's to not buggering up any of them...

Seabee this should be what you are looking for.

Time for a bit of an update to the Ducati 888. Progressing a bit slowly but here goes.

Body parts primed and then the first few coats added. Needs a few more then the final clear coats and decal application.

left and right side of the engine, a few bits still to be added. Like you Joel i am not sure i got the flat brown shade right, any comments guys?

Wheel rims and rear shock assembled

And finally the frame starting to take shape. As i said initially I know this should be white but the guy I am building it for was adamant he wanted red!

Seabee yes as far as I can see it is the same for 2006.

Does anyone have any inside info as to which 2007 800cc bike Tamiya will launch first? My guess is the championship winner Stoner Ducati but who knows?

whats up guys,

just wanted to share some progress pics.

comming along pretty good i think so far.

installed the fork set. i really like the extra detail plus i like the fact

that the axle blocks can be painted seperatly.

Hello everyone. This is my first post so please bear with me. I will post a few pics of some of my models so far:

I started with the Nastro Azzurro NSR as my first race bike (I had done Tamiya's R1 before) and I think I had a hobbyknife, some cement and 4 tamiya colours to my name. Hence the wrong colours here and there...

Then moved on to the Suzuki RGV and the Repsol Honda 2003 and I bought a few extra colours with that kit, next came the TZR250 and the YZR500. I then did the West NSR, Telefonica RC211V, YZRM1 Gauloises and the Fortuna rep. Then the Ducati and RC211V Valencia were built 

Sorry for wasting so much of your time with the above pics. Just a bit of background. I wouldnt class myself as a modeller, more of a bike nut that enjoys making models to relax when I can't get out on my 1:1. As i said before the above pics chart my progress really from the first forays with only a few colours. Its only in the last week that I found this site. I have since ordered some Microsol because I always struggle with decals. All of the above bikes were made with nothing more than my knife, some tamiya x paints and some tamiya spray. I dont have anything as technical as an airbrush, or even filler and masking tape.

All of the models are as they came out of the box from tamiya with no extras or photo etched parts.

I have been reading this thread with interest as my ultimate aim is to make an NSR mugello but your experiences have told me I need a bit more practice first before attempting it.

Thanks guys.....

Chris

Sorry can anyone tell me why the forum has chopped off the front of my pics?

Full size pics can be found on my flickr account if anyone is interested:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/98882529@N00/

Oh forgot to say none of my bikes have laquer or clear kote. What is the best stuff to use if I do not have an airbrush?

Hi Chris, and welcome to the forum!

May I first say thanks for your background info. Nice to see the progress and it's never a waist of time to look at such nice builds. Just keep it up and you'll soon be ready for the mugello kit.

The Finescale forum software has the funny way of chopping pictures as you say. It is only the preview pics that get chopped though. Just click pictures and you'll see the full size version.

As for the clear paint I'd go for some of the spray paint, many of the paint manufacturers stocks one. You have the common TS-13 from Tamiya wich is good but if put on in too thick layers can affect the decals. I know Modelers' have one as well and probably Gunze Sangio too. You'll have to shop around.

Will you join us in this GB and if so with wich bike?

Best regards
Joel

Hi,

I'd like to join your group build if you'll have me. (I was a bit worried that mine wouldnt be good enough after seeing all the other stunning builds here). It would either be the Valencia RCV or the YZR500 (if you'll take a pre motogp gp bike that is) as they are my favourites. What do I have to do with them? The Fortuna YZR M1 looks ok from the side I took the photo but the side fairing decals dont quite line up with the nose fairing on the other side...... I am currently working on an RC211V in West colours - the first kit I have done that isnt how it should be on the box if you know what I mean. Could eneter that when its done.

With respect to the clear spray for finishing do you spray fairings before putting the windscreen in the nose piece and before they are attached to the bike?

Hi chrisga and welcome,

My tuppence worth of advice for clear coating, especially if you dont have an airbrush, is to use a product called Klear. Look it up on the main forum, theres loads of info there.

It'll not only put a nice gloss on your bodywork, but will seal and protect the decals as well. Remove the bodywork before coating it - Tamiya kits should come apart easily enough. It'll brush on quite easily, just be careful of any "pooling" at the bottom edges of the piece youre coating.

Its always given my models a lovely shine. hth.

Nick,

 Thanks for the welcome and the advice. I will go and look it up now....

Will post pics of the West RCV as and when I can do a bit more to it.

Chris

Welcome barhebaeus,
You can pretty much do what you want: post pics of your progess as you go, post pics of just your finished model, or just ask for/share/offer advice. There are some seriously good modellers on here (much better than me) and everyones more than happy to help and/or comment. Its entirely up to you what model you make or how you choose to show it. But we all like to see pics

Chris,
I shouldve mentioned that Klear is also known as "Future" - this link is very useful (pretty much everything you need to know about it)
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Hey nice to see some new faces, welcome. As we said at the beginning of this build it is open to all bike fans, no limits and no time frame. Just hoping to share progress, tips etc, it is amazing what knowledge is out there.

Chris nice progress on your kits, and amazing considering what you have in your tool kit! I seem to have collected tons of things over the years but seem to always use just one or two brushes, air brush (incidentally if there is one piece of equipment you should consider this is it, you will change the face of your modelling forever - even the very cheap ones do a good job)toothpicks, scalpel blades and sand paper - keep to the basics and you cant go far wrong

Happy holidays everyone.

Chris Firstly having re-looked at your pics it is amazing the finish you have achieved using just hand and brush, very well done. I still believe an airbrush is the way to go though, I now hardly hand paint anything on a bike build. It is just so effective for all the metal bits and you end up with such a clean finish as opposed to the inevitable tiny brush strokes when done by hand. I do however understand the budget thing, it's taken me years to get my bits together!

An airbrush needs air to work. When I first started I used to pump up a tyre and with an adaptor on the valve got by, till one day I got tired of going to the garage to fill up with air all the time and seriously over-inflated it. Needless to say the thing exploded in my room, luckily I was not near it at the time! You can use aerosol cans which also work but can get costly. Best is to purchase a compressor, these can range in price from really cheap to outrageous. Best is one with a pressure reservoir which means you don't get pulsing air but rather a smooth flow of air. Can be a bit noisy but they fill up pretty quick and then you work in silence till the pressure drops. As for airbrush model I started with a very basic external mix type and have progressed to a badger single action, don't feel I need to get any fancier than this.

As for paint wastage, yes that does happen but with experience you can judge pretty closely how much you need so I find it is minimal. I only use the tamiya X range of enamels and have never had any problem. I find the magic mix ratio is 1 part paint to 3 parts thinners.

 The only down sides for me are the little bit of extra cleaning you have to go through to clean the bottle and airbrush after each spraying. Also the fumes can build up in your model room. I made a spray booth with extractor fan which pipes most of it outside. Here is a pic.

Careful with the Klear, you will see in this build how it can go wrong in some posts by Seabee. test on spare kits or bits of plastic till you have it mastered.

Thanks for the advice - its all useful so keep it coming!

The fortuna, repsol valencia, fairings were done with tamiya sprays, and the rgv, telefonica rcv and gauloises yzr were all done with one can of tamiya telefonica blue. So they werent brushed to be honest, but I have never sprayed anything apart from fairings and wheels. Absolutley everything else is brushed on, inc the white on the TZR250 lower fairing.

What were the probs with klear, I tried looking abck through 15 pages but couldnt find it immediately. Didnt manage to get any tonight, am not in a major rush as it may be a while before I need to do any fairings. Just working my way through my west RCV.