Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

Hang in there guys! October will be here before ya know it! Of course I'm in the same boat, too. I just can't stop oogling that DH.2 and psyching myself up for ALL that rigging it needs. For those of you unfamiliar with the DH.2, here's a pic....

ruddratt wrote:

Hang in there guys! October will be here before ya know it! Of course I'm in the same boat, too. I just can't stop oogling that DH.2 and psyching myself up for ALL that rigging it needs. For those of you unfamiliar with the DH.2, here's a pic....

  Glutton for punishment I'd say!   What's that other word... oh ya... SADISTIC!

razordws wrote:

ruddratt wrote: Hang in there guys! October will be here before ya know it! Of course I'm in the same boat, too. I just can't stop oogling that DH.2 and psyching myself up for ALL that rigging it needs. For those of you unfamiliar with the DH.2, here's a pic....     Glutton for punishment I'd say!   What's that other word... oh ya... SADISTIC!

After all Mike you are the master in this subject (the group at your bench LOL)

wyoroy wrote:

razordws wrote:   Glutton for punishment I'd say!   What's that other word... oh ya... SADISTIC! After all Mike you are the master in this subject (the group at your bench LOL)

LMBO!! You guys are a hoot!

Here is the kit that I will attempt to build:

I just hope that it will turn out OK.  For those who have read the kit review, you know what Im talking about.

Roy

Mike-

Can't wait to see the job you do on that one!  Looks like a tough one, but I know you turn it into a jewel.

Roy-

I read that review too, looks like you are gonna have your hands full too!

Thanks buddy! I've been wanting to get to that DH.2 for a long time, & I'm glad I'm finally going to get the chance!

That is going to be a real challenge Roy, but remember, you're not going it alone my friend! We've got a lot of great modelers in this GB and I think that everyone is going to benefit significantly from each other's experience and end up with models they'll be proud to display.

Ok lads I need some pointing in the right direction concerning rigging biplanes.  I have seen quite a few "how too's" on the web but I would like to know which method is most recommended and what the heck do I use for rigging.

Also, for a little pre-build inspiration have a look at this little beauty

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2007/05/stuff_eng_gronczewski_camel.htm

Cheers

Nice Camel! I've made a note on my instruction sheet to test fit those outer struts just in case.

Darren, there are so many rigging mediums I'm not sure where to start. You've got stainless steel wire, fishing line, monofilament thread, EZ line, stretched sprue, elastic thread, human hair (yes, modelers do use this ), etc. The list goes on and on.

I've tried most of these (at my age I'm hanging on to the hair I have left ) and the one's I use the most are the steel wire and the EZ line for most of my rigging, and the stretched sprue for shorter runs like control cables. The keys are in how you prep your model and the rigging sequence itself. I study the instructions carefully, determining where to pre-drill my attachment points and what medium I will use where. The sequence is important when attaching it, especially around long runs. Here I have found it is best to work from the inside, out, so you do not have to work around what's already installed. With the three mediums I use, my mounting holes do not have to be drilled all the way through. With others, especially monofilament thread and fishing line, many modelers will attach one point and feed it through a hole drilled completely through the wing, CA it, trim it flush, and touch up the joint with the appropriate color paint.

I hope that helps you. It's a general description, but if you have any more questions that arise , I'll do my best to answer them.

Great looking Camel.  That's the kit I am planning on doing but it does look a bit intimidating.

Another question about rigging.  Is each wire a separate single piece? Or is there some threading involved?  Like starting and one corner and going up/down or back/forth form corner to corner?

When it comes time... I think I'll like the through hole and cut flush method.  I have done that many times with the antenna wires on the WWII birds and I like they way I can get it nice and tight.

A guy in my club uses only stretched sprue and a set of dividers.  Says it is the perfect length every time.

wing_nut wrote:

Another question about rigging.  Is each wire a separate single piece? Or is there some threading involved?  Like starting and one corner and going up/down or back/forth form corner to corner?

Marc, for long runs I would go with individual pieces, especially if you're going to drill through, thread it, and cut flush. I just think it would be easier to get the right tension that way without having to pull too hard.

I use dividers a lot, mainly because I primarily use stainless steel wire, and that stuff is hard to cut, so I want to get it right with the least amount of trimming.

Hi,

I would like to join in this gb, I am thinking of building a Revell - Fokker Dr.I Richthofen Scale: 1/28. let me know what you think. I cant wait to get started!

Doug, I say to our group build.  You will love this group of guys.  I'm in two other builds with them and I have to say that they are the greatest.

Roy

wyoroy wrote:

Doug, I say to our group build. You will love this group of guys.

...and I second that! Welcome to the forums, and welcome to our group build! Great to have you on board, and we're honored that you chose this as your first GB and first post. That is pretty darn cool!

This is the decal sheet I bought at Finescale Models in N. Vancouver (saw it and couldn't resist!). The bird I'm going to build (in addition to the DH.2) is the third one down.....

Darren,

thanks for the link mate! That Camel looks amazing!

Mike, That's going to look very cool. 

Roy

Doug to the nut house!!!

Mike, nice score on the decal sheet.  Some nice markings on that one

Doug!  Glad you decided to join our lil' group build!  The fellas 'round here are great, you're gonna love it here!  I put you down on the list, and you make 20!!!

That's quite a feat!

Mike- I love it!  That DVII of yours is really gonna stand out!

Greetings Daywalker;

Regards Stephen

Stephen-

Welcome to our GB!  It is a pleasure to have you here, many friendle people 'round here.  I added you to the roster.

Stephen, to our GB.

Roy

Thank you good folks for the welcome! Here is a bit of fun.  The information herein has been gathered by practical application of trial and error (and lots of it.) While applicable to most modeling scenarios it is case specific to Wingnuts.

1.) Every modeler's desk comes with a black hole beneath it, that swallows parts. Only on rare occasions does it see fit to spew one back at you you..
a.) Only the highly scratchbuilt parts or ones that have no replacements will fall into this black hole
b.) The probability of dropping a part is inversely proportional to the size of the part.
c.) The closer the match of a part and the floor, the greater the probability of dropping the part.
d.) A dropped part will bounce to the most inaccessible area of the room. (this also allows you to mark the boundaries of your black hole. (Note:A dropped X-acto knife will visit your foot before obeying d.)
e.) As soon as you quit looking for the missing part you will probably step on it.

2.) The time it takes to build a kit is in direct proportion to the amount of reference material used and often impedes further builds.
a.) The more unbuilt kits you have on the shelves the fewer kits you actually build.
b.) Unbuilt kits expand to fill available space.
c.) Reference materials expand beyond available space.
d.) The more second source reference materials(published by non-modelers) adds confusion, not clarification.

The solution here is to choose a 'school of thought' from informed sources.

3.) No matter what the size of your modeling desk is, 99.9% of all your modeling will be done in the 5 square inches of the center front edge.
4.) Dollar for dollar and pound sterling for pound sterling the absolute best value is a figure of a seated pilot. Simply put 'it fills the hole' where some modelers would rather replace aircraft cockpit details (because their too 'Fiddly' or wind up in the 'Black Hole') with a pilot figure.
5.) No matter what your method of sealing your paint bottles it will go bad two days before your intended project.
6.) The amount you pay for a new paint brush is directly proportionate to the probability that you will inadvertently dip it in your coffee or a blob of super glue or both.
7.) What ever you purchase for your hobby will go on sale a week later.
8.) All manufacturers hold their releases until they are absolutely sure that you just spent six months scratch-building your version.
a.) There is 'NO' such thing as a perfect kit.
b.) Half built vacuform kits impress people with your skill.
c.) A completed Vacuform just looks like another model.
9.) There is no substitute for a well oiled Dremel motor tool.
10.) Humbrol paint will always be the best paint in the sorriest container.
11.) X-acto scars on your fingers are a given. Learn to live with them.
12.) Sooner or later you should buy an airbrush. The simpler the better.
13.) Half of the washes you apply will be done on the areas of your paint scheme that are not dry yet. But you'll do it anyway just to be sure.
14.) Lacquer thinner odors can be smelled by your family members from the basement through a solid core door.
15.) If you find something you like, buy a lifetime supply. Because they'll quit making it just to spite you.
16.) The kit instructions, may be very interesting, but are 95 % of the time irrelevant.
17.) Tossing a finished, expensive model kit against the furthest wall in your basement at 90mph is the most sincerest form of self-criticism. But doesn't live up to the acclaimed rush that is supposed to follow.
18.) You will NEVER get all those models built!
19.) The probability of finding an error in a built model increases exponentially after you've entered it in a contest..
a.) The more important the contest the greater the error.

And now a pop quiz what is the 'Theorem of Progression' ?
The question was; what is the Theorem of Progression ? Much like the events that cause a stooge that falls from a flag pole mounted outside a window of a 17 story building the 'progression develops' thus.1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it.
2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released. And they will label it a main production variant.
3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble.
4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify and streamline their processes.)
5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work or sell your mint condition, unbuilt kit for 1000% profit on e-bay.
6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws.

Next Pop quiz what is 'The Law of Finite Differences'?
Specifically the 'Law of Finite Differences' in modeling says that 'In most people's minds, the line between being different and being weird is thin and easily crossed. Also note that no one of your family or friends will ever take you seriously until you make money at this. Then its no longer a hobby. Now you have two jobs and no way to relieve the added stress. (The corollary is ‘don't take yourself too seriously about your hobby. Enjoy it.)

Next Pop Quiz: What is ‘The Thick Thumb Theorem'
The 'Thick Thumb Theorem' states that 'the difficulty in reaching a seam union, (so to sand smooth said seam) is directly proportionate to the mismatch of the parts by both the manufacturer's desire for simplicity and the resultant attempt of the modeler to do it right.' Hence the reason we all tend to feel like a Rhino glueing petals on a rose at times.

Next Pop Quiz: What is the unofficial Rules for Parliamentary Procedures and Monthly Club Meetings' for any Modeling Club?
1.) If it doesn't matter, it does not matter!!! (The Corollary: However it will take up most of the meeting to discuss. This applies specifically to grudges against other modelers, clubs or contest Committees
a.) All modeling clubs are part of the one community, if you want to bicker with another club about something that happened five years ago, shouldn't you be doing somewhere else?
b.) All modeling clubs are part of the wider community, take the hobby to the community where you can and it will grow;
2.) All models are made equal. It's the effort and the enjoyment that counts not the detail;
3.) Whatever you want to say, its okay, we all want to hear it;
a.) The number of prizes you have collected does not make you an expert;
b.) Sharing is important; everyone wants to learn what everyone knows;
c.) Its okay to be wrong; mistakes help you learn;
d.) A smart-aleck criticism can be devastating; if you can't be constructive, what are you doing here?)
e.)A model is a model is a model. It is not a replica aircraft.
f.) If I can't see your details, how can I admire them?
g.) Being the ‘Club President' five years running does not make you a better modeler. I just means that either the club respects you or they all have lives other than modeling.
h.) Contrary to popular belief, beer does not make for better meetings, only drunken ones;
i.) Listen you may hear something!
j.) A motion to adjourn to the nearest coffee shop and or restaurant is always in order. There, disagreement may be dealt with directly in the adjoining parking lot. Quite possibly under the watchful eye of the local constabulary Now for the Final Test of the Laws of Modeling 101. For those of you who joined us late I suggest some cramming with flash cards. The answer must include elements of the entire course. To be specific even elements of the previous contributions from the class may be used in your answer. These will be limited to one sentence only and must be complete thoughts. Here it is: according to the material dealt with in this course. What makes a satisfying scale model?

'What make a satisfying model is the attitude of the Modeler.'

Very clever!....and oh, so true!

If I may be permitted to add to part 1....

f.) The black hole may deem you worthy of returning the kit part to you after you've spent hours scratchbuilding a suitable replacement.