Knights of the Sky WWI GB The End

OK... Stephen has set the bar...  and I can almost see it from way down here

Nice job.

wing_nut wrote:

OK... Stephen has set the bar...  and I can almost see it from way down here

Yeah, why'd he have to set it so high!?

Alright-- the bidding is done.

I won two kits on eBay- An Eduard 1/48 Albatross DIII (early version) and the Dragon 1/48 Fokker Dr I.  I was going to build a Spad-- BUT since I won both of these kits, I may as well go ahead and do one! :)

So- Daywalker, I'm undecided at this point, but will be doing one of these a/c for the group build (the other I'll use to hold me back from starting before 10/1!)

Justin- I was hoping that you would win that Dr.I on Ebay, in fact I was watching it just to see how much it went for.  Looks like you got it for decent price!  Just let me know when you decide which one you are gonna build for the GB, and I'll update the list.

Marc is right, it's nice to have two guys here who REALLY know how to build WWI aircraft.  From where I'm at, I can BARELY see that bar up there.

Will you build it with German or maybe this time with Polish markings ? Greg

This fokker be it German markings , but i think other model in Polish painting (Ms 406 in 1:48)

I start bulding Dr.I in 2 weeks

I bulding only one Fokker Dr.I , i have four Bf-109 to finish.

Rafhart wrote:

Will you build it with German or maybe this time with Polish markings ? Greg  This fokker be it German markings , but i think other model in Polish painting (Ms 406 in 1:48)

OK, you got my attention: where did you get 1/48 MS 406 ?????????

I need one !!!

Sorry for OFF TOPIC. Maybe we will continue this topic in PM ? (Polish is OK )

Greg 

wing_nut wrote:

OK... Stephen has set the bar...  and I can almost see it from way down here Nice job.

I'll need a freakin' telescope to see that bar!   Awesome work Stephen!

Daywalker wrote:

Just let me know when you decide which one you are gonna build for the GB, and I'll update the list.

Hey Frank-  looks like I'm going to go ahead and build the Albatross D III (early version) for the group build- I need to ease into this WWI business, and I think that will be the easiest one.  My logic is fairly simple-2 wings easier-3 wings harder.   I'll be doing it straight out of the box, decals and all.

I may need some help with some paint choices in the near future, because I've been lost in WWII land for too long!  Glad to be around a bunch of people who know what they're doing! 

MrDrummy, I was wondering are you the drummer for levi smith?

Roy

MrDrummy wrote:

My logic is fairly simple-2 wings easier-3 wings harder.

Your logic makes sense to me, that's why I'm doing one with ONE wing-easier yet!

I'll put you down for the Eduard 1/48 Albatros D.III instead of the Spad.

Daywalker wrote:

MrDrummy wrote: My logic is fairly simple-2 wings easier-3 wings harder. Your logic makes sense to me, that's why I'm doing one with ONE wing-easier yet!

Chickens!!!

ruddratt wrote:

Daywalker wrote:  MrDrummy wrote: My logic is fairly simple-2 wings easier-3 wings harder. Your logic makes sense to me, that's why I'm doing one with ONE wing-easier yet! Chickens!!!

"Chicken" is such a strong word...

As one who is taking the path of least resistance (Albatros-looked like a minimial amount of rigging and none of the funky upper/lower wing decaling (lounge?) and it was a steal -Eduard 1/48 pro-something for appox. $10.- @ Great Models), I prefer to think of it as the calculated & rational approach for those of use who want to complete a WW I plane and overcome our fear of rigging....baby steps....

However, "Chicken" would fit also....

My sincere thanks to the kindness you all have shown me.

Truthfully folks WWI German One and two wingers have much more rigging than say a Triplane.  The exception is late war single seat Fokkers  (hence their popularity.)  For instance on the Alb. D.III there are 24 paths for rigging, on the Alb. D.V / Va there are 26, and on the Dr.I there are only 18.  On the Fokker E.V / D.VIII there are 16 rigging paths.  The British SE 5 & Sopwith types usually have more with an average of 36 rigging paths.  Early Fokker and Pfalz E types have an average of 24 rigging paths.  Since this is a group build and I have several more  kits to work on (about 60 plus) I ' ll add them as I go. In a year I'll only get a couple ( 7 - 9 ?) more done. 

Daywalker, please add a 1/48 Rumpler C.IV and a Bristol F2 b to my list. 

MrDrummy wrote:

I surely am- why do you ask?  :)

Just wondering, I like the sound of your band 

Roy

Stephan- I added your planes to the list.

Mike- OK, maybe I am a lil' chicken!  Here's my idea of rigging:

No wonder the DVIII is my favorite WWI aircraft.

Frank, why don't you pick up the Smer 504K and we can build it together (or go insane)

Roy

Daywalker wrote:

Stephan- I added your planes to the list. Mike- OK, maybe I am a lil' chicken!  Here's my idea of rigging: No wonder the DVIII is my favorite WWI aircraft.

What rigging? Ooooops...never mind. I found it.

Roy and Mike-

LOL- you guys are a hoot!  Just looking at that 504K kit gives me the heebie jeebies.  Roy, you are a braver soul than I, my friend!

Mike- OK, so the rigging is a tad on the non existent side.

StephenLawson wrote:

For instance on the Alb. D.III there are 24 paths for rigging...

Well, looks like I goofed!!  Oh well.  I think I'll make it, though.  Maybe I'll do the Albatross now, and wait til October to do the DR I.  Frank, just add both to my list, and I'll do one of them! HA!  Sorry, buddy.

Wyoroy--

Thanks!  Glad you like the sound! 

Also-- I saw over on Hyperscale that Vector out of Moscow is now producing a 1/48 Mercedes DIII/DIIIa resin engine, and boy does it look nice!!

It sure would look nice in my Albatross.... 

MrDrummy wrote:

Frank, just add both to my list, and I'll do one of them! HA!  Sorry, buddy.

NP buddy, I put them both on for ya.

They can usually be found at Buffy's Best.com or alternately the Pavlka resin Mercedes (180 -200hp) is very nice.  Hi-Tech has just re-released their version of 180hp.   Most of the early Albatros D.III type had the 170hp Mercedes.  The late models (OAW) types seemd to all have the 180hp Mercedes.  You will find unless you want to open up the cowling panels, you won't see much except the cylinder heads.

darson wrote:

". . .Great to have you back Mike & thanks a bunch for the info on those kits.  I think I will go for the Ni-16 MAX kit, so you can that down as my build.  Cheers"

 Just cruising through the previous pages I picked up on darson's interest in the Eduard Weekend kit #8426 Nieuport 16.  I happen to know of some plugger that did a review on the kit.  Some people seem to like it. I hope it helps.  Model On!

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2590

This build will deal with the Planet Models kit. As it is mostly resin these parts will be referred to as RP. Additional resin parts are referred to as PX. Though the instructions clearly label them as photoetch the PX items are in fact resin. Originally the parts marked PX were supposed to be white metal.

This details the assembly of the 260hp Mercedes D.IVa inline six motor. On the basic motor ( RP 34 ) water jackets covering the cylinders should be painted a "blued gun metal" color. The crank housing would be a bare aluminum color. Note the rectangular plate on the back of the motor is supposed fit over the etch rectangle on the face of the fuselage former (RP 22.) NOTE!!! This is the key that helps you set the engine at the correct attitude. It will be canted to the pilot's right. Don't be alarmed. It was like that on the original airframes, I kid you not. The overhead cam & rockers on the cylinder tops will be steel and aluminum tinged with a black wash or painted black. The air induction pipes ( RP 32 & 27 ) appear to be copper based items. The twin magnetos and tower assembly will need to be scratchbuilt and will be aluminum with a black wash and fitted behind the rear cylinder. Later you will find that the engine cowlings don't really permit a view to the crankcase. Use fine wire to add small sections to each side of the cylinders and paint to represent spark plug wires.