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PAGE 5-FINISHED PICS! The "MIG-nificent" DML King Tiger!

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  • Member since
    January 2007
PAGE 5-FINISHED PICS! The "MIG-nificent" DML King Tiger!
Posted by the doog on Friday, December 12, 2008 4:08 PM

Hi Guys,

Wel, it's been a busy few weeks here, but I've been plodding along on the ol' DML Pre-Zimmeritted King Tiger, andhere's the ready-for-paint shots, along with a review of my impressions of the kit. My opinion is mixed, to say the least!

First, picking up from the original post, here's the shot of the front hull, which shows that you can indeed "chip" and damage the zimmerit. I'll show how I did this in a minute.

Here's the mini-chisel set from Micromark. A VERY handy set of tools!

Just a sample of Ye Holy Tools of Zimmerit of Destruction.(sound of angelic choirs in background)

 

First shalt thou take out the Holy Chisel. Then, shalt thou count to three. No more. No less. Three shalt be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, nor either count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out. Once the number three, being the third number, be reached, then, wield thou Holy Chisel towards thy hull, which, being naughty in My sight, shalt be chipped.

I also used the Less-Holy-but-Still-Venerable Xacto Blade of Laying-Waste to scrape less-square sections, and to smooth the chiseled portions--but only on a Thursday, and never before noon, as required by The Law.

 

OK; things to add... (Sorry, I'm in this "Monty Python" groove today...Smile [:)])

The weld on the mantlet--this is really very subtle. I have seen this added in much excess, looking like a major hull weld; go very subtle here. I added it with a light dabbing of Squadron's White putty. I also roughed-up the mantlet texture with some Mr Surfacer 500.

Don't forget the lifting lugs on the rear muffler guards...I also scratched a bent fender; you can't see it in the photo but it has all the requisite bolts detail in it....

 

OK--next, for Tony, an illustration of how to do engine screens. Here's the PE and the parts you have to bend the PE around.

And, in composite, how I bent the PE around a pick using a razor blade and knife blade. It;s important to remember that you should look for a diameter slightly smaller than the curve that you actually want. Some strange law of modeling physics says that if you choose the exact same diameter, the PE wiil always be slightly under-bent!

Now here comes the mini-rant. Mostly this has to do with my disapointment (disillusionent?) with the touted "extra's" in this kit.

First, I have read some other notorious rants against DML/Dragon directions, but lemme tell ya--I can empathize with the author! The "photo directions" used in this kit are unforgiveably vague. The lighting of the photos often precludes the possibility of seeing the detail needed to correctly position a part. Secondarily, the added PE parts are for the most part simply illustrated as how-to-assemble, but often are not pointed out as to where they are to be used. And there are a LOT of unused PE parts left over that leaves one scratching one's head where and what might have been possible, or missed! The "working clamps" were, for this experienced modeler, impossible to manage or assemble; I wound up substituting some Royal Model clamps instead.

The debacle of the directions and PE are unquestionably a cost-cutting decision by DML, as they are simply using the "old" directions, modified with some new illustrations, but they are, IMHO, wholly inadequate.

Here's another bummer--the lack of locating points for the track hangers on the turret. Could not DML have put some punch-through marks behind the turret wall (much as they do in their fenders) so as to retain the possibility of those who want to build one of the earliest Tiger II's which came without spare track hangers? True, you can glue the tracks onto the turrret side first, and then add the hangers inside the cut-outs, but I found this to be an untenable option for the finish procedures which I have planned. This is a major PITA of the kit in my opinion--especially if you don't want to portray the kit with a full complementof hanging spare tracks!

In any case, I used a compass and a Tamiya turret to locate the hangers.

And this really Censored [censored]'ed me off. It's nice that DML has included extra parts and real cable fo rthe towing cables--but they realy goofed on the dimensions here. Check this out--if you use the stand-alone cable ends, the dimensions are off on them--I could NOT properly fit the cleaning rod parts once they were affixed!

Neither one fits!!

The reason for this is evident in this comparison--if you look at the set of stand alone, and molded cable ends on the left, notice how, if you compare the length of the actual cable ends, the stand-alone ends are actually longer by about 2mm!!! Banged Head [banghead] You can see in the right-hand parts that when they engineered this part, some bonehead measured the entire part, clamps included and used THAT for the measurement!

I'm sorry; I know I should be grateful for these added "extra's", but this kind of engineering strikes me as just plain sloppy! And--MEA CULPA!!--Yes, I should have "test fitted"--but hey man, this is supposed to be like a state-of-the-art kit! Slide molding and all, you know?! Additionally, when you use the provided wire as I have, the wires themselves are too big for the diameter of the cleaning rod kit parts. When you try to attach them over the wire, thet stand "off" the hull. I wound up having to use a needle file to thin and enlarge them considerably; in fact, down to almost breaking through them. Again, I expected more here.

So, I would up shortening one cleaning rod, and then moving the entire part/assembly bacl a few millimeters to fit the part. So much for dimensional scale accuracy! Sigh [sigh]

So in the end, as I prepare for painting the base coat, I have mixed feelings about this kit, For my money, if I build another one, I would use nylon thread for the cables, and really pay attention to those darned cable ends, as well as possibly using a whole other Eduard or similar PE set. 

Manny, did you encounter any of these problems?

I'll be busy tonight until later, but questions and coments are welcomed--I'll try to answer when I get home! Thanks for looking guys! Big Smile [:D]

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Friday, December 12, 2008 4:18 PM

The Idool himself on yet another project?  Can't wait on seeing the result on this!!  Looking very proffesional so far.. no wait.. You are proffesional Smile [:)]

 

Now I wish there were a subscribe button for this thread.. Black Eye [B)]

 

Can't wait to see more! Cool [8D] 

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

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  • From: Michigan
Posted by ps1scw on Friday, December 12, 2008 4:24 PM
Regardless it looks very nice.  I do agree that how Dragon and their kits are touted, the issues you brought up should never have happened.  The kit itself may have been rushed into production and sale, but there is no excuse for thier directions.  They have had long enough to get proper staffing to correct them. 
  • Member since
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  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, December 12, 2008 4:39 PM

Doog,

You're encountering similar problems that often crop-up on the "Premium" kits...cases where parts are taken from generic or upgraded sets (like the tow cable ends) and just thrown in as opposed to being specifically engineered for that kit. It's unfortunate to see that happening with these pre-zim kits...but I guess that just means DML needs to leave some room so they can keep "improving on perfection", eh? Wink [;)]

Looks like you're beating this one into submission despite the issues encountered. If you're looking for alternative clamps, try the Griffon line, I've been impressed with them in terms of ease of assembly and solid detail without resorting to the Aber "shrink an actual metal worker down to 1/35" approach.

  • Member since
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  • From: California
Posted by rabbiteatsnake on Friday, December 12, 2008 5:43 PM
It looks like you have things well in hand despite the kits shortfalls. I have complete faith in you.   Just a small correction. In image 6 the features in question are grinder marks to the seams left by the forgeing process, and should look a strip of irregular verticle grooves.  By the way is that a scratchbuilt flash supressor on the hull mg, looks nice.
The devil is in the details...and somtimes he's in my sock drawer. On the bench. Airfix 1/24 bf109E scratch conv to 109 G14AS MPC1/24 ju87B conv to 87G Rev 1/48 B17G toF Trump 1/32 f4u-1D and staying a1D Scratch 1/16 TigerII.
  • Member since
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  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, December 12, 2008 6:01 PM

Doog

Really excellent work you are doing with this cat. You figure the price that these kits run, you expect better. Have you shot DML an email about the lack of instructions with the PE parts? It probably won't go anywhere but I think it won't hurt to give them some feedback. Who knows, they may listen and improve the model and the instructions.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
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  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, December 12, 2008 7:17 PM
Looks pretty nice from here Karl. Your zim work sure paid off. I'll have to keep your observations in mind if I ever pick one up, but I'm leaning to the BoB version myself.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
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  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, December 12, 2008 8:14 PM
 Huxy wrote:

The Idool himself on yet another project?  .......... Black Eye [B)]

 

Hmmm...

'Ya might have something there....."American Idoog"......

 Comin' along well doog. Did you see this?... The commander is lookin' at it I believe.

http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/pinmark-1.gif

http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/%23t1-4.jpg

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
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  • From: ladner BC Canada
Posted by stick man on Friday, December 12, 2008 8:21 PM

Looks great Doog!!!!

Smile [:)]

I'm 15 and I model I sk8board and I drum what could be better.
  • Member since
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Posted by the doog on Friday, December 12, 2008 9:55 PM

Thanks, guys, for the comments and compliments!

Bill, --thanks for the heads up on that Griffon line. I'm going to be in the market for some more generic clamps, and I'll check those out. The Aber ones are just sadistic!

I didn't really realize that the Premium kits were plagued with the same problems. I never bought into them--I guess I have been vindicated, in a way? Big Smile [:D]

rabbiteatssnake, --thanks for that info! I'll make some cuts in there to properly simulate the correct appearance.

plasticjunkie, --Hmmmm...I may do that, but I doubt it would bear fruit. I imagine every company is in economic bunker-mode, with the coming Depression. Luckily, the Nashorn I'm eyeing next has line-drawing instructions, I believe!

tigerman, --I want the "Babes on Board" version too! Whistling [:-^]....Laugh [(-D]. I want a final version!

Steve, --that pin mark--I didn't see a "mark" so I either got it, or I'm looking at that hole and not recognizing it for what it is--that hole in the back of the mantlet is supposed to be there though, is it not?

Thanks, stick man, ps1scw, and Huxy! 

I forgot to mention too, that the dimensions for the side of the hull are actually incorrect too--if you look at a KT's sides, theside skirt hanger brackets are actually spaced quite a bt above the edge of the hull sides. On the model, the hanger brackets are almost flush with the edge.There's no real way to fix that without destroying the molded zimm!

I'll be trying to get a base coat tommorrow if all goes well--stay tuned! 

  • Member since
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  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, December 12, 2008 11:06 PM

Looking good Karl. Thumbs Up [tup]

Just to expand a little - the Griffon clamps look a lot easier to use - they're two-piece. The base and strap are one piece and the flip-latch another. The set also comes with some very nice looking toolbox latches. They are very nicely priced too, at under $4.00. Luckymodel is asking $3.11 (inc shipping) at the moment.

Looking forward to seeing paint on this baby.

  • Member since
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  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Friday, December 12, 2008 11:37 PM
 the doog wrote:

Steve, --that pin mark-- that hole in the back of the mantlet is supposed to be there though, is it not?

 Well, not too sure since I don't have this particular kit, but it looks suspiciously like a ejector pin mark.

http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/%23t1-4.jpg

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
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Posted by I make stuff on Friday, December 12, 2008 11:49 PM

Looking good, Karl, I can't wait to see some paint on this bad boy.

A question, I know that's unlike me, but indulge me, whay have you attached all the tools, cable, cleaning rods, etc prior to painting.  Is it just to properly place the workable clamps, then they will be pulled off and the clamps painted, or what? 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:09 AM
Doog, it aint fun if you don't have to tweak it a bit...OK... a lot.  Looks like oyu got a good handle on everything and when all is said and done it will be a fine looking kitty.

Marc  

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  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:12 AM
Aaah.  And they scratch building is a lost art!
  • Member since
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Posted by the doog on Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:49 AM
 disastermaster wrote:
 the doog wrote:

Steve, --that pin mark-- that hole in the back of the mantlet is supposed to be there though, is it not?

 Well, not too sure since I don't have this particular kit, but it looks suspiciously like a ejector pin mark.

http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/%23t1-4.jpg

Oh, OK; I think I see it as you were looking at it--no, that's supposed to be there. I found a great shot in the Ryton book "Schwere Panzers in Detail" by Culver and Feist which I'm using for reference. There is a weird little hole behind the mantlet; that's what you're seeing.

Phil_H --thanks for that info on those clamps; I'm going to try them when I need more.

Bill -- I used to paint everything off the model, but in this case, with all the PE it's just "safer" to attach them all, and then worry about painting them afterward. Besides, I'm going for a winter camo on this, so I won't really have to worry too much about the painting so much in detail, because much of it will be whitewashed.

Marc -- thanks for looking in!

Jeff -- "Scratchbuilding is dead"? Shock [:O] EEEK! Who said that?!

Actually, I just think that these days there's a lot less need for it! But it's always satisfying to put a little personal touch that you yourself have created on a model! 

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:50 AM

nice one. looking forward to seeing this one progress.

Terry. 

  • Member since
    November 2008
Posted by Satori on Saturday, December 13, 2008 11:49 AM

Seemed to me this kit is not worth buying. Shape of the zimmerit pattern isn't very accurate but that's debatable, since not all shared the same patterns. However, the result of chipping the plastic zimmerit doesn;t look good, in my honest opinion. I know it probably took you lots of work, but it doesn't look like layer of material shedded, more like the result of a chisel used on wood..

I think what these kits should include are photo etched mudguards and fenders. Not many places on a model where thickness is clearly visible, and for one of the crucial pieces in this regard, plastic mudguards are much too thick.

  • Member since
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Posted by the doog on Saturday, December 13, 2008 1:28 PM
 Satori wrote:

Seemed to me this kit is not worth buying. Shape of the zimmerit pattern isn't very accurate but that's debatable, since not all shared the same patterns. However, the result of chipping the plastic zimmerit doesn;t look good, in my honest opinion. I know it probably took you lots of work, but it doesn't look like layer of material shedded, more like the result of a chisel used on wood..

I think what these kits should include are photo etched mudguards and fenders. Not many places on a model where thickness is clearly visible, and for one of the crucial pieces in this regard, plastic mudguards are much too thick.

Thank you, Satori, for your honesty. I have to agree that the zimmerit depth-of-molding does preclude one from maiking a strictly "accurate"-looking chipping process. In place where I have thought that the depth went too far, I have tried to fill it in with putty. The best I could do. However, as zimmerit was a plaster-like material, it would not have "shredded", but instead broken off in chipped pieces of various sizes. This is what I have tried to simulate here.I'm curious as to what you think would have been a more proper way to simulate this effect? No scarcasm intended; I'm sincerely curious--how would you have handled it?

Ideally, the will refine the zimmerit molding to where it is a finer texture and shallower depth. In this case, however, I have to "dance with what brung me"--I can only put lipstick on this pig, not make it a princess...Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

  • Member since
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  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:19 PM
 the doog wrote:
 disastermaster wrote:
 the doog wrote:

Steve, --that pin mark-- that hole in the back of the mantlet is supposed to be there though, is it not?

 Well, not too sure since I don't have this particular kit, but it looks suspiciously like a ejector pin mark.

http://www.thelastsuperman.com/disastermaster/%23t1-4.jpg

Oh, OK; I think I see it as you were looking at it--no, that's supposed to be there. I found a great shot in the Ryton book "Schwere Panzers in Detail" by Culver and Feist which I'm using for reference. There is a weird little hole behind the mantlet; that's what you're seeing.

Phil_H --thanks for that info on those clamps; I'm going to try them when I need more.

Bill -- I used to paint everything off the model, but in this case, with all the PE it's just "safer" to attach them all, and then worry about painting them afterward. Besides, I'm going for a winter camo on this, so I won't really have to worry too much about the painting so much in detail, because much of it will be whitewashed.

Marc -- thanks for looking in!

Jeff -- "Scratchbuilding is dead"? Shock [:O] EEEK! Who said that?!

Actually, I just think that these days there's a lot less need for it! But it's always satisfying to put a little personal touch that you yourself have created on a model! 

 

 

Hey Karl!  No one said that, just implied that with all the new fangled process used in manufacturing today, all of the available PE with aluminum and resin pieces now out that one is surprised you would even have to alter a kit that is sold these days.  Wink [;)]

You'd think it would have some of the zimm chipped off and not factory fresh looking.  Nice work!

  • Member since
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  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Saturday, December 13, 2008 5:36 PM
 the doog wrote:

 Jeff -- "Scratchbuilding is dead"? Shock [:O] EEEK! Who said that?!

Actually, I just think that these days there's a lot less need for it! But it's always satisfying to put a little personal touch that you yourself have created on a model! 

doog, you just made my day!! Big Smile [:D] Your statement about "a little personal touch" provides an answer as to why I spend so much time trying to "improve" or "perfect" my builds!  I really never thought about it that way before!  I just thought I was being anal or a rivet counter.  Thanks dude!!  This little nugget will be with me for a long time!Bow [bow]

As for your KT!  I'm keeping an eye on this thread because I've got the kit in the stash.  I luv the work you're doing so far and kudos to you for trying to chip the zim.  I'm sure we're all waiting to see how it looks after one of your spectacular paint jobs!  BTW, how will the oil dot method work with all the zim?

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
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Posted by I make stuff on Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:16 PM
 the doog wrote:
 Satori wrote:

Seemed to me this kit is not worth buying. Shape of the zimmerit pattern isn't very accurate but that's debatable, since not all shared the same patterns. However, the result of chipping the plastic zimmerit doesn;t look good, in my honest opinion. I know it probably took you lots of work, but it doesn't look like layer of material shedded, more like the result of a chisel used on wood..

I think what these kits should include are photo etched mudguards and fenders. Not many places on a model where thickness is clearly visible, and for one of the crucial pieces in this regard, plastic mudguards are much too thick.

Thank you, Satori, for your honesty. I have to agree that the zimmerit depth-of-molding does preclude one from maiking a strictly "accurate"-looking chipping process. In place where I have thought that the depth went too far, I have tried to fill it in with putty. The best I could do. However, as zimmerit was a plaster-like material, it would not have "shredded", but instead broken off in chipped pieces of various sizes. This is what I have tried to simulate here.I'm curious as to what you think would have been a more proper way to simulate this effect? No scarcasm intended; I'm sincerely curious--how would you have handled it?

Ideally, the will refine the zimmerit molding to where it is a finer texture and shallower depth. In this case, however, I have to "dance with what brung me"--I can only put lipstick on this pig, not make it a princess...Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

 

I've never studied this, but I understand what zimmerit is, I think if you defined the edges of the chipped areas, si it looks like a veneer came off and there's a definite end to the armor plate and beginning to the zimm, it might look "better,"although this did not even occur to me until I saw this exchange.

How hard would it be to crisp up the definintion lines where teh armor ends and the zimm begins? 

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, December 13, 2008 7:09 PM

Thanks, Jeff--I agree with you about the "hi-tech" aspect of the kits nowadays. It's getting easier and easier to make a "masterpiece" straight out-of-the-box!

Ernest--I'm not sure how the dot method will work, but I don;t know if I will use it here. I plan to do a winter camo scheme, and I'm not sure that the oil dot thing will be applicable over white.

Bill, I'm not really worried about "perfecting" the zimm-look, honestly. I'm pretty satisfied that with some attentive, creative finishing, it will look just fine! I've already started painting it, and I really don't want to go scraping more plastic, but we'll have to see what happens. This build is realy an "experimental" build, as far as both building and finishing techniques. I'm going to be doing something different with it......Whistling [:-^]......Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

  • Member since
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Posted by I make stuff on Saturday, December 13, 2008 7:18 PM

Gotcha, Karl,like I said it never even occurred to me until I saw you two discussing it. I figured if anyone was going to detail something like what the edge of a zim pock would look like, it would probably be you.

I like the IDEA of damaged simm you had, and I like your execution.   

  

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  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Saturday, December 13, 2008 7:41 PM

Karl - Glad to see you back in the saddle again. As far as the scratch building.....as Bill has said in another thread, it's what separates the assemblers from the modelers. Even a super kit is not  super enough that it does not need a modelers touch to personalize it.

If it ever get to the point of being just an assembler, you just as well go off and buy diecast. Why bother at that point.

We all need to remember the name of the forum.....FINE SCALE MODELER

Everything else is just an assembler.

As far as a new finishing tech.......hummmm, what is going on in the Doog laboratory Shock [:O]

Rounds Complete!!

 

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
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Posted by Satori on Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:00 PM

I'm not an expert on the anti magnetic paste, but because it's a paste smeared onto flat surfaces, I think they would cure into a thin, in relative terms, hardened layer. What underneath was armor steel, which would not be damaged by the scratching and light hitting that would be catastrophic for the zimmerit coating. So when zimmerit chipped off, from a more macro perspective, it should be an even and thin layer that went missing, leaving smooth surfaces below and show uniformed thickness around the edges.

Yes the depth of chipping on zimmerit will vary, and depth of the coating isn't uniformed by any means. However, because the layer was so thin, and then the thickness would be divided by 35 in this case, the variation probably will not be very noticable. So vise versa, when the edges shown gradule depth changes, or slopped if you will, to me it doesn't look real.

I don't know if you can make it appeared any better or "real" than it is now. That is percisely why I said this kit doesn't seemed worth purchasing to me, because I don't think I can make looked any more realistic either. 

  • Member since
    November 2008
Posted by Satori on Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:24 PM

In regarding what redleg12 had said, I'd like to give my 2 cents too.

I've been using photo etched upgrades for a while. To me, the companies avaliable have not been very satisfying. I'll make some example to clearify my reasons in a sec. What I want to say is, because the pre fabricated upgrades lacked accuracy, scratch building is still a necessary skill even when building the most common and popular injection plastic kits, if one is a pursuer of accuracy of course.

So my examples.
All the Panther mudguards from Ausf D to F, have the width indicators. And with those, a set of clamps to hold the width indicator when it's detached. This set of clamps have not been accurately produced by any company so far. Not only injection plastic manufactors, but also every single aftermarket photo etched maker out there. Voyager Models, Aber, Lion Roar, ACE, Eduard and Part have all attempted to produce the panther mudguards, none of them made the clamps correctly. Also worth mentioning, none of them positioned the groves correctly either.

Another little thing on the Panthers no photo etched company had made right is the side skirt mounting, less visible in this case. Aber's mouting is missing 2 holes, and Voyager's fixing pin doesn't diplict the steel reinforcement in the middle.

Nobody makes the Panzer IV storage bin cover correctly.

Even more common things like the German tool clamp, no one even makes a corret set for a poplular vehicle such as Tiger, Panther or King Tiger.

The list goes on. One 35th is a scale where everything can be presented correctly, at least in appearance. They don't have to function, but when something looked obviously wrong, it makes me wonder why I had spent the 20 bucks to get the upgrades. Sractch building abilities will always have its places to shine, as there's always space for improvements. 

 

  • Member since
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Posted by the doog on Saturday, December 13, 2008 10:25 PM
 Satori wrote:

I'm not an expert on the anti magnetic paste, but because it's a paste smeared onto flat surfaces, I think they would cure into a thin, in relative terms, hardened layer. What underneath was armor steel, which would not be damaged by the scratching and light hitting that would be catastrophic for the zimmerit coating. So when zimmerit chipped off, from a more macro perspective, it should be an even and thin layer that went missing, leaving smooth surfaces below and show uniformed thickness around the edges.


 

Well see, that's the problem with trying to do this to this kit--the zimmerit molding is rather "deep", so you're kinda stuck with what you've got to do if you're going to try to modify it.

Having said that, I just couldn't see myself being content with a factory-fresh, undamaged coat of zimm, so if I must accept the deep molding of the kit's zimm, then I must also accept the inaccuracy of the chipping method.

Havig read your post, you're much more of a stickler about perceived accuracy than I'll ever be--no disrespect intended, I assure you! I'm more of an "Art" guy, with accuracy coming in a close second. But I don't really get so worked up about what I consider to be "small details" like scale thickness, zimmerit width, "correct" shapes and angles to within microns of inches. To me, "modeling" is that--building a reasonably accurate impression of something. I'm not a "Miniaturist"; I'm a "Modeler"--and that leaves a lot of "wiggle room" in my artist's eye.

But thank you for your perspective--it's always nice to hear the dissenting voice, and the fresh perspective! Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
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  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Saturday, December 13, 2008 11:09 PM
LOL Karl Thanks for the photo tutorial, I finally got those grills on the KV!!!! Looking great as usual.
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
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  • From: Oklahoma City
Posted by Mixael on Saturday, December 13, 2008 11:57 PM

Well, Doog and Satori, I find myself somewhat in flux between what you two have talked about.  I am a (beginning/returning) modeller that would like to work towards more "miniturist" work.  I'm not good at scratch building, but I'm doing more as I learn HOW and WHAT to do.  I've not used PE as, frankly, it scares me a bit Smile [:)]  I've never used AM stuff, but do have some in the wings that have a bit of it.  One of those that is waiting has AM PE and RESIN! 

All this to say that this is a great place to learn, and post, as there are so many differing ideas and philosophies.  I read these threads in the deepest hope of either learning something or being inspired, and it hasn't failed yet!  In fact, in the "old days" I would skip the interior if the vehicle was going to be closed up and you wouldn't see stuff.  Now, I not only install it, I even PAINT it, even if I'm the only one that knows it's there.  So, while there are "artist" builders and "rivet counter" builders, I feel I fit comfortably in the middle somewhere.

Just my thoughts, now back to building!

Michael 

We could change the world, but God won't give us the source code!
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