Mark, Russ, and John, thanks for your kind compliments! I'm glad you guys are enjoying the build! ![Big Smile [:D]](/emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif)
So here it is--the final installment in the finishing my "MIG-nificent" King Tiger. First, a litle more how-to; first I want to show a little more of how I got the snow on the tracks. The Woodland Sceneics snow just didnt want to stay opaque-white; it kept changing to a semi-translucent-looking powwder, so I gave the MIG powder #022 "Ashes White" a try--and it worked beautifully!
I set it down on the tracks with a brush...
Hit it with some MIG Pigment Fixer, and it dries perfectly white!
Voila! It really keeps it's color! I also went over a lot if the tracks and other areas with this powder, and got similar results, so I'm very pleased with this use for what is touted as a burnt ash color for roadwheels, eyc--yes, you can also use it for snow! ![Tongue [:P]](/emoticons/icon_smile_tongue.gif)
Next, I also used pigments on the mufflers. First, here'stwo of the three powders I used.
First, I take the "Old Rust" with some of the 502 Oils color #060 Light Rust Brown, and after getting some of it on the brush, I dip the paint brush into the pigment jar so that I have both oil and pigments on the brush, and then I apply it to the muffler.
Then, with a CLEAN, short-bristled brush, I scrap away some of the excessive color. I do thisto graduate the color from top to bottom. I figure the tops would be more discolored than the bottoms.
Now what I have is a still "sticky" mix of oil+pigments on the tops and side. SO I then apply the "Medium" rust powder (POWDER ONLY!) to the top of the muffler.
And finally some Black Smoke to the tops...
Here's what they eventuallly look like after adding the last color--"Light Rust" to the top for a little more contrast.
And here's the final product with the Warriors figure painted up, in Tamiya acrylics and oils..again, alll the weathering was accomplished using 99% of MIG "502 Abteilung" oils, MIG pre-mixed washes and filters, and MIG powders, kindly and generously provided by MIG Productions . I used the "Neutral Wash" for all the pin washes, and 502 oils for the rust streaks and discolorations. There are MIG pigments on the upper hull surfaces to show dirt/discoloration--several different shades. And finally, a light application was made of MIG "Gunmetal" powder on the edges--it's like a graphite powder, and relaly gives a nice 'metallic" edge to some of the parts that really need it. I applied it by putting some on my finger and rubbing it where I could. I'm sorry I couldn't document these parts more--a lot of it is done at night, when the lighting from my flash was too harsh to capture it.
I thinned out the side skirts from behind with a Dremel tool, and poked some more bullet holes IN A RANDOM PATTERN! ![Whistling [:-^]](/emoticons/icon_smile_whistling.gif)
...![Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]](/emoticons/icon_smile_swg.gif)
"That's 'Herr' Peiper to you!"
Lastly--why I can never work on more than one project at a time--here's the bench during the weathering phase--where would I possibly fit anything else?!!
So. in closing,my review "verdict" of the MIG Products are as folllows--
I have nothing but good to report about the 502 Oils line. They are all high-quality oils, and the color range is very broad, and pefectly adequate for armor finishing. The only color I questioned was the #020 "Faded Dark Yellow" which is. in fact, a bright, rust-orange. I can only assume that this is a mis-labelling of this tube. The inclusion of colors such as "Fresh Mud" and "Buff" are a nice convenience for colors that I used to have to mix alone.
The only thing I didn;t care for was the looooong drying time of the MIG "Thinner for Washes"--I'm not sure if I used it right, but when I used it to thin the oil paints, it took a long time for them to dry. I must assume that perhaps it's an enamel or even similar to linseed oil product? I much preferred just plain mineral spirits for use with the 502 oils. I also believe that they have enamel properties because the white oil spot-washing I did on top f the turret dried semi-glossy, and very hard.However, there may be benefits to this product that I have yet to ascertain, or which I will learn of in the future. Anyone who has experience with it, and who would like to leave some hints aout it would be most welcomed!
The pre-mixd washes and filters were, IMO. spot-on as far as being great weathering shades. They are consistent in their application, spread very easily, and dry quickly as well. They flow as well or better than my regular mineral spirit washes, and a little bit actually does go a long way. I was afraid of using the whole bottle up at first, but for this one build, I used less than 5% of the "Neutral Wash", so IMO, I have to say that they actually ARE a good deal for the money, if you want consistent colored washes EVERY time. My favorite is that "Neutral" color--it just screams "DIRTY BOY!!!" LOL! ![Blush [:I]](/emoticons/icon_smile_blush.gif)
I have not had the opportunity to try the liquid mask yet.
The Pigments are something that I have used quite a bit before this build of course, THEY ROCK!!!--but I have to say that the Pigment fxer stuff is primo--it just works really well! And it doesn't discolor the pigments. 10/10!
The Acrylic Resin too, is a first-rate product. It dries fast, and rock-hard! It's VERY durable! I actually mixed up waaaay more than I really used or needed in this build, so be frugal with it at first, until you learn its properties. Great stuff!
So, in closing, I must again thank Adam Wilder and Rick Lawler and all at MIG Productions for this enjoyable build and review, and for the nice cache of MIG products which I will continue to use here. And thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions! Only question is...what's next?! (I'm leaning toward a Nashorn!?)
Comments, and questions welcomed and appreciated!