FINISHED PICS!--Page 10--DML HORNISSE

psstoff995 wrote:

the doog wrote:  mmc wrote: Will do. This may be a silly question, but what the hell.........is the interior the same colour as the exterior? Mark Absolutely--you can use mine for a reference. Just a guess but was this done because of the fact that it was an open vehicle thus the interior needed to be just as "camouflaged" as the exterior?

WHo knows? Maybe it was just expedient to paint the whole thing in one color/

The reason to paint the exposed interior on an open-topped vehicle to match the exterior was to avoid giving away the vehicle to aerial reconnaisance or jabos...nothing like looking down and seeing a great square of white surrounded by camoflage or fields to make you a big target!

The reason for a light colored interior is to make it easier for the crew to see things in minimal lighting in an enclosed space...with an open-top that reason goes away...soooo take away the original reason for doing it and combine it with the target-enhancing reason above and you've now got 2 very good reasons for NOT painting the interior on an open-top vehicle anything different from the exterior. Some vehicles like the 234/4 did go through a period where the exposed portions were only painted in primer red but they are more the exception than the rule.

wbill76 wrote:

The reason to paint the exposed interior on an open-topped vehicle to match the exterior was to avoid giving away the vehicle to aerial reconnaisance or jabos...nothing like looking down and seeing a great square of white surrounded by camoflage or fields to make you a big target! The reason for a light colored interior is to make it easier for the crew to see things in minimal lighting in an enclosed space...with an open-top that reason goes away...soooo take away the original reason for doing it and combine it with the target-enhancing reason above and you've now got 2 very good reasons for NOT painting the interior on an open-top vehicle anything different from the exterior. Some vehicles like the 234/4 did go through a period where the exposed portions were only painted in primer red but they are more the exception than the rule.

That's too, RBaer, for the comments! 

Mansteins revenge wrote:

Wow, doog---this build is the shit !!!  I mean and I really mean this, it could be IMO your best work I've seen !!! That shell rack and shells are awesome, so is the interior in general, and the camo is dead on...I hope you don't over-weather it...

...

Don't worry, Manny!--I plan on going easy on my littte 'Nisse! It will have the standard dirty lower chassis and wheels, but it willl be relatively newer-looking! Thanks, for your enthusiatic comment! It means a lot!

Thanks, too, doc! I appreciate your kind compliments too! 

Doog, your work is AMAZING as usual....with a capital A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!

I echo everyone elses comments on the ammo& racks.....awesome! I know next to nothing about the operations of any type of artillery, but I have a question. In a "real" hornisse, wouldn't it have been easier, possibly safer, and more efficient on the crew to have the ammo on the left side pointing forward? I mean, so they wouldn't have to flip it over in the heat of combat. I could be completely wrong, but that idea just popped into my head when I was looking at the pics.

MaxSheridan wrote:

Doog, your work is AMAZING as usual....with a capital A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I echo everyone elses comments on the ammo& racks.....awesome! I know next to nothing about the operations of any type of artillery, but I have a question. In a "real" hornisse, wouldn't it have been easier, possibly safer, and more efficient on the crew to have the ammo on the left side pointing forward? I mean, so they wouldn't have to flip it over in the heat of combat. I could be completely wrong, but that idea just popped into my head when I was looking at the pics.

As far as the ammo racks, do you know that I thought the same thing? But for some weird reason, the racks on that side are reversed!? I have numerous reference shots to prove it.

Actually, think of it this way--you're the crrewman, facing the left ammo bin. You have to grasp the shell, and in turning around to load it, you twist 180' to place the shell in the breech, shell-forward. On the right side, it actually seems counter-intuitive being tio-forward. I guess it has something to do with where the loader was standing?

the doog wrote:

MaxSheridan wrote: Doog, your work is AMAZING as usual....with a capital A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I echo everyone elses comments on the ammo& racks.....awesome! I know next to nothing about the operations of any type of artillery, but I have a question. In a "real" hornisse, wouldn't it have been easier, possibly safer, and more efficient on the crew to have the ammo on the left side pointing forward? I mean, so they wouldn't have to flip it over in the heat of combat. I could be completely wrong, but that idea just popped into my head when I was looking at the pics.   Mark--thanks for your compliments! As far as the ammo racks, do you know that I thought the same thing? But for some weird reason, the racks on that side are reversed!? I have numerous reference shots to prove it. Actually, think of it this way--you're the crrewman, facing the left ammo bin. You have to grasp the shell, and in turning around to load it, you twist 180' to place the shell in the breech, shell-forward. On the right side, it actually seems counter-intuitive being tio-forward. I guess it has something to do with where the loader was standing?

Well, there you go......that makes perfect sense....I guess that's where the phrase "it's all in the details" comes in! I always find it amazing how engineers think of even the smallest details in their designs. Well, back to the stool in the corner for me!

Thanks for the info on the interior..........knew it was a silly question lol!!!!!!

Mark

wbill76 wrote:

The reason to paint the exposed interior on an open-topped vehicle to match the exterior was to avoid giving away the vehicle to aerial reconnaisance or jabos...nothing like looking down and seeing a great square of white surrounded by camoflage or fields to make you a big target! The reason for a light colored interior is to make it easier for the crew to see things in minimal lighting in an enclosed space...with an open-top that reason goes away...soooo take away the original reason for doing it and combine it with the target-enhancing reason above and you've now got 2 very good reasons for NOT painting the interior on an open-top vehicle anything different from the exterior. Some vehicles like the 234/4 did go through a period where the exposed portions were only painted in primer red but they are more the exception than the rule.

Thanks for the reference, also the cool tidbit about the 234/4 I hadn't seen it like that. Not a bad question Mark!

Thanks, JMart! Thanks for looking in, and for your comments!

OK,OK! Here's a small update--tracks and lower hull stuff...

Real men paint their road wheels individually with a paintbrush, LOL! 

I used 502 oil color "Buff" to give the hull an overall wash, and and then used a combination of Medium Rust, Wash Brown, and Black on the bottom of the hull, which I drew upward with a clean brush. I also did the undergarriage the same way.

The muffler is coming alomg--still needs pigment though....

I went easy on the sag...

Coming along....

I'm working on the tracks now-should have them on tonight if I don't fall asleep first! LOL!

Watch this space!

detailfreak wrote:

ever gotten your hair tangled up in a roadwheel? LOL. not funny,did it on a creeper under a semi-truck once ,but never under a panzer IV... been a very informative build.thanks doog.

i did the same thing except i was under car and had tranny fluid in my hair when it got cought, talk about painful.

buy the way the weathering looks great.

Making good progress Karl...got to admire the dedication of an Optivisor and hand-painting the wheels...but you really ought to give the circle template method a try....you'll be amazed at the amount of time it saves you...not to mention no risk of hair entanglement!

You've created a monster...the mob now demands regular sacrific...errr....updates now to keep them under control.

"Hair Entanglement"

Now that is funny, you just got my day off to a great start.

wbill76 wrote:

Making good progress Karl...got to admire the dedication of an Optivisor and hand-painting the wheels...but you really ought to give the circle template method a try....you'll be amazed at the amount of time it saves you...not to mention no risk of hair entanglement! You've created a monster...the mob now demands regular sacrific...errr....updates now to keep them under control.

I meant to try the template method, I really DID! But before I'm even thinking about painting, I'm assembling the wheel halves, as per instructios, and I just don't thik of it until it's too late!

It doesn't relaly bother me though--I'm a very patient person, and there's an almost zen-like quality to the process for me!  ....

Thanks guys, for the enthusiasm, and the comments! 

That undercarriage weathering is just amazing.  Really, the results you get are an inspiration, at least for me, and your sharing of techniques is just unreal.

I do feel a bit like the USSR when we rolled out the Stealth, I couldn't even copy that if you gave it to me.

Something to aspire to, though. Thanks as always for sharing. 

Thanks, dupes, and Billl!

You guys are gonna hate me though--I just got done weathering the tracks and hull with pigments, and I covered most of that work up! Oh well, it doesn't hurt to have a great base on which to put the pigments!

Pictures tomorrow!

the doog wrote:

Real men paint their road wheels individually with a paintbrush, LOL!

No, Doog... Only you paint roadwheels individually....

Seriously tough, Looking great! I really like the look..     What shampoo do you use?    

hahah!!    But the model, good. Looks really good!

-Huxy 

Huxy wrote:

...what shampoo do you use? -Huxy

OK, here's a small weathering update--I have added some MIG dirt and mud on thelower hull. I knwo, I know--y'all liked that paint job, but I just intended it for a "base" for the rest of the mud.It never looks right to me to see mud pigments or dirt on an otherwise-pristine hull, so I wanted to get a good base to work upon. 

What I did was use a little bit of MIG Acrylic Resin, and mix a little paint in, and then some MIG powders of about 4 different shade. I put the darker colors in first, applied a layer of that, and then mixed up some lighter colors, and put them over the first. This gave some depth to the look.

The rear mudgaurds also got some, as well as the steps and crew step.

The bottom so far--I plan on adding a little more "dry" pigments here to even it out a bit...

Some more items and details have been added to the interior--the shrouded MG, and cases above it in the racks. Fire extingushers and an open resin map case, which was bent using some heat from a soldering iron.

And lastly, I've attached the driver's visor after painting, and added a PE hinge.

Time to work on the main exterior weathering now. I'm going to go rather light here; not too much chipping or rust.

Hopefully, another update soon!

    Fantastic work Karl. The build up of wet and dry mud on the lower hull looks perfect.

  I used to paint road wheels by hand but now that I use a template I don't dread tackling them anymore. 

the doog wrote:

Real men paint their road wheels individually with a paintbrush, LOL!

I'm with you brother! (he say's flexing in some type of oiled up Schwarzeneggeresque pose) I haven't used a mask yet on a road wheel yet. And to compensate for that similarity... I am totally on the other end of the hair spectrum

It is a shame to have covered that lower hull weathering.  I really liked the look of that and will be happy to get remotely close to that... even though it will be covered by schurzen.

Karl the lower hull weathering has "stacked' very nicely...I think the foundation you laid before was ideal for the end result you were looking for. The other little details for the interior are nice touches too, especially the limp map case cover.

On the front driver's port, I believe that the armored glass block would've been removed when it was open to allow for the driver to have a better view. The holder would remain but the block itself stowed to allow the driver a mostly unobstructed view. Take a look at this pic from Allied&Axis #16, the portion sticking down at an angle is much smaller than what you've got on yours. Not sure if you're able to address it or not by perhaps cutting it down? It also looks like it opens upward at a higher angle as well vs. a 90-degree angle the way you've got it installed now, probably has a locking mechanism on the extender?