#3 DML Pzkpfw III Ausf N sPzAbt 501 Afrika (W.I.P.)

i always walk into a club meeting and say "hello boys." BLAZING SADDLES, mel brooks and his secretatry. one guy is offended but i am 60 years old and, since i don't mean any harm,plus too old to care.  it's his problem not mine. when i was teaching MILES as a civilian in the '80s i usually addressed my troops/students as lads. i too have a fondness for MK-IIIs.

Hi Eric,

We have all been good thank you for asking.  Well I have been busy working on some 1:1 scale models lately.  One being me and the other a 2008 Sahara Wrangler Unlimited I have been modding.  I have lost 40 lbs since last May and have been hitting the weights two hours a day six days a week,

I don't want to go into how much 1:1 jeep mod's are as opposed to 1:35th!  :)

Hope all is well with you and yours Eric

All The Best,

-Ed

Heya Schnobs!! How have you been?  When can we enjoy seeing more of your work here again?!?!

Received an automatic email that there was movement on this thread.  PZIII's are still my favorite workhorse

Hope all is well with everyone

Ahh, lol. I always thought of it as kinda like "Hey fellas or Hey folks".

No he did not!

I was a proper month old newbie at the time and the term lad is used all the time everywhere by all blokes in England/UK! For example hi lads? how you doing lads? great work lads? you fancy a beer after work lads? It has nothing to do with age - we all say it - I don't know if you Americans do but I'm sure you'll at least know what I mean.

So, I took up AFV modelling 3.5 years ago and started my posts by saying 'hi lads, and usually finished a post by saying 'cheers lads or 'thanks lads'!

Schnobs sent me a pm titled "Boy, BOY"! and promptly went onto tell me that I was causing a lot of offence on here by calling people 'lad' ie saying they were boys! That's how he took the meaning of 'lads'.

It really upset me, I was new to the site and basically thought everyone hated me and nearly stopped using FSM. Karl later set me straight and all was ok. I've still felt uncomfortable using the word lads on the forums eversince. though

Hmmmm

Did he not like the word lad?

Hinksy

Jeez - I thought he was back!

I thought I'd have to stop using the word 'lads' again

Ask Karl

                  Just thought I'd bop in 

                 He banned himself.

    Never fear "LADDIE"........... 

          Personally, I like it.

Jeez - I thought he was back!

I thought I'd have to stop using the word 'lads' again

Ask Karl

I agree Eric. I met him personally a few times. He was an amazing detailer. I won't go on about why he left, but perhaps he'll come back some day.

Too bad Schnobs doesnt post anymore, I really enjoyed watching his builds.

I know, my memory is shot....never would have brought this back up....I was just thinking of Afrika panzers.....

Nothing like resurrecting a 4 year old thread.

COOL

Thanks Bill!  That's what I was going for a subtle weathering without beating you over the head with it.

I spent the weekend catching up on all the Honey Do's in the nicest weather Seattle has seen in quite awhile.  I just finished up cleaning up the bench and just opened up the Stug box.

I will start tomorrow and start posting the Build #4 later this week.

Have a good week!

Edmund,

Sorry, I missed you declaration of "Complete", this really came out nicely.  I like teh weathering, enough to know you did some, not enough to simulate a mud bus.

Well done, I can't wait to watch you do the Stug.

Bill     

scratchmod wrote:

Schnobs...she came out awsome, the weathering is just right. The Jerry cans look great and the placement of the cans look familiar too I see you chose not to add sandbags!!! I'm looking forward to your next build. What will the next one be? Rob

Thanks Rob!  I was hoping you were still keeping an eye on this build. I studied your pictures closely and the more I examined them the more detail jumped out.  You my friend are a master of detail and congrats on your latest win on your own work.

I tried every arrangement I could on the Jerry can rack and I ended up liking your arrangment the best.  I ended up deciding not to try to use sandbags because I focused on being much more subtle on the weathering this time and didn't want to hide the results.

Well I have only done monotone tanks so far so it is time to dive into a soft edge two tone cammo paint job.  I was also planning to wait until build #6 to start adding figures but my wife of all people is pushing me to start doing figures.  With those goals in mind I ran across a Cyber-Hobby Super Value Pack  (Orange Box) Sd.Kfz.142/1 Stug III Ausf. F with Sturmgeschutze Crew for $27.00. I fiured it I had to hide the end result from company I wouldn't be too out of pocket.

I have some ideals on how to approach the two tone soft edge and one is follow this paint scheme:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10062429t2/60/2

I figured I would base coat it either XF-51 (Khaki Drab) or a lightened XF-61 (Dark Green) and then use some blue tac or silly putty to mask and then use XF-60 (Dark Yellow).  I do not know if I am ready to do it free hand.

Let me tell you how much I know about painting figures.  I am done!

I have read Vellejo figure painting turorial and a few other posts but other than that I am flying without a wingman. 

Thanks again Rob for the inspiration and the support.  I am entering it into the IMPS Seattle Spring Show on the 18th just for fun.

Peace,

Schnobs...she came out awsome, the weathering is just right. The Jerry cans look great and the placement of the cans look familiar too I see you chose not to add sandbags!!!

I'm looking forward to your next build. What will the next one be?

Rob

model maniac 96 wrote:

Schnobs wrote:  model maniac 96 wrote: AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jim LOL! Thanks Jim!  This one took exactly one month total to complete.  I am going to record actual hours next build just for my own curiousity.  Do you think I nailed the Jerry Cans?  cool idea, recording your total hours. And I absolutely think that with out a doubt you nailed the jerry cans, looking forward to when I can do that kind of work, once again, great job!! Jim

Not an original ideal Bill did that awhile back on one of his builds and I was just curious.  Addtionaly many of the modeling mags in kit reviews reference hours per build and I wanted to keep them honest. 

wbill76 wrote:

Congrats on completing #3 Edmund! I see you got the tracks turned around the right way on both sides, nice save!

Hey Bill like I had a choice once you pointed it out my last name is Schnabel and I am a third generation German from North Dakota. Those kind of things keep me up at night!  I was raised by a man that stated if you can't do it right don't start!    Hard to learn that way so I amended his motto to do my best until directed otherwise!

I really appreciate you pointing that out and giving me that traingle pointing downward tip from the front view.  Keep it coming Bill!

I am almost ready to kick off #4 which will include a two tone cammo paint scheme and God help me figures!

Peace not Pieces!

Schnobs wrote:

model maniac 96 wrote: AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jim LOL! Thanks Jim!  This one took exactly one month total to complete.  I am going to record actual hours next build just for my own curiousity.  Do you think I nailed the Jerry Cans?

model maniac 96 wrote:

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jim

LOL!

Thanks Jim!  This one took exactly one month total to complete.  I am going to record actual hours next build just for my own curiousity.  Do you think I nailed the Jerry Cans? 

Build #3 Complete!

I want to thank everyone that stopped in and provided suggestions and pushes to the finish line.  Thanks especially to Bill and Scratchmod for his fantastic pictures that I used as a reference and guide when I was not sure how to proceed.

Here is a few pictures please let me know what you think.

LOL!

Thanks Marc it was an interesting story.  I get some great natural light thorugh the kitchen windows and I was lining the tanks up and I "might" of been making some tank rumbling sounds when my wife snuck up behind me and accused me of playing with toys!

agentg wrote:

Now that's looking really good. Not too beat up, not too clean. Just the way I like 'em. Now junk up that rack, a lil' dust here and there and display that baby proudly!

Thanks Wayne & Jim for the compliments and I apologize for the lateness of the reply.  I have base coated all the stowage and and have started detailing the Jerry cans.  I am also remounting the track I mounted backwards. 

I should be able to call this one completed by Sunday is the present goal.

wbill76 wrote:

Schnobs wrote: I really appreciate your comments and honest appraisal of my work so far.  I knew the tracks were handed and I understood the DML color codes indicating left and right but I must of missed the direction thing. I examined my other models and what I am obeserving is that the correct direction is that one of the ends of the trank links for lack of better verbage is more pointed out than the other. Lesson Learned! Now did you you appreciate the more subtle weathering? Most certainly did appreciate your more subtle weathering, it all blends together well and is the progression I mentioned in my first post. Love your philosophy, words to live by for sure.   The easiest way to remember which way to mount Pz III/IV tracks is that the triangular shapes on the face of the track link should always point down when looking at the front of the vehicle. This in turn causes the smaller end of the track that inserts into the next link to be at the top and the widest portion at the bottom. This is reversed when looking at the rear of the vehicle due to the direction that the track runs in. It's a common mistake to make with these types of tracks, don't feel bad! I have one myself still sitting on the shelf from when I first encountered this type of track.

Thanks for the compliments about the weathering because I see you as a great example of balancing weathering and reality. Great info about the triangular shape on the face of the track link pointing down.  I really see it now!  Well, here is the thing I am a perfectionist which I am sure doesn't suprize anyone on this forum!  I was ready to let it got but my wife knows that I plan to enter this one into the IPMS Seattle Spring Show on April 18th and after she read your post she looked me in the eye and smiled and said what are are you waiting for? I really love that Lady!  I was encouraged to enter the show this by some of the local IPMS people as a way of getting my feet wet and meeting local guys and continuing to learn. 

I did end up with duplicates of this kit so I am going to redo the tracks on that side.  I am also going to start painting the Jerry Cans and other stowage tonight as well.

Convoy!

Thanks again Bill.

Schnobs wrote:

I really appreciate your comments and honest appraisal of my work so far.  I knew the tracks were handed and I understood the DML color codes indicating left and right but I must of missed the direction thing. I examined my other models and what I am obeserving is that the correct direction is that one of the ends of the trank links for lack of better verbage is more pointed out than the other. Lesson Learned! Now did you you appreciate the more subtle weathering?

Most certainly did appreciate your more subtle weathering, it all blends together well and is the progression I mentioned in my first post. Love your philosophy, words to live by for sure.  

The easiest way to remember which way to mount Pz III/IV tracks is that the triangular shapes on the face of the track link should always point down when looking at the front of the vehicle. This in turn causes the smaller end of the track that inserts into the next link to be at the top and the widest portion at the bottom. This is reversed when looking at the rear of the vehicle due to the direction that the track runs in. It's a common mistake to make with these types of tracks, don't feel bad! I have one myself still sitting on the shelf from when I first encountered this type of track.

model maniac 96 wrote:

hello again! this is an absolutely wonderful build, and I am amazed at your abilities. Jim

Thnaks Jim I am glad you like it.  It's not done yet! 

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, I hate to be the one to break this to you...but you've got one of the tracks installed backwards. Both tracks should run the same direction on both sides. In the head-on pic, the track on the right side is facing the correct direction while the one on the left is reversed. You obviously learned a lot with this build though and can definitely see a progression in your skills from the last one and I look forward to your next one!

Hi Bill,

I would like to share with you a quote attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson about success which I try to live my life by.

To laugh often and much;

To win the respect of intelligent people and the affection of children;

To earn the appreciation of honest critics and endure the betrayal of false friends;

To appreciate beauty, to find the best in others;

To leave the world a bit better, whether by a healthy child, a garden patch or a redeemed social condition;

To know even one life has breathed easier because you have lived.

This is to have succeeded.

I really appreciate your comments and honest appraisal of my work so far.  I knew the tracks were handed and I understood the DML color codes indicating left and right but I must of missed the direction thing. I examined my other models and what I am obeserving is that the correct direction is that one of the ends of the trank links for lack of better verbage is more pointed out than the other.

Lesson Learned!

Now did you you appreciate the more subtle weathering?

Edmund,

I hate to be the one to break this to you...but you've got one of the tracks installed backwards. Both tracks should run the same direction on both sides. In the head-on pic, the track on the right side is facing the correct direction while the one on the left is reversed. You obviously learned a lot with this build though and can definitely see a progression in your skills from the last one and I look forward to your next one!

Build Update:

I was able to get some great traction this weekend on weathering and track assembly while balancing quality family time.

On Friday night I was able to finish applying the dot filter method to the turret and hull followed by a pin wash of black and brown wash oil paints.  I then very carefully using Model Master Schwartsgrau enamel rather than the Poly Scale Acrylic Reefer Grey I had used on the last tank applied a light chipping effect over the entire hull and Turret.  I used the swing out magnifyer and chanted "Less is More" the entire time.  I then appiled a variety of MIG pigments again sparingly to the turret and hull.

On Saturday after some plannned family time I sarted on the Magic Track assembly, painting and mounting.  My confidence was high due to the success  I had on my second set of Magic Tracks which was short lived!

I set up my first set of tracks according to Karl's tutorial and applied Testors slow setting glue whcih gave me an hour window to mount the road wheels for that side.

The first three suspension arms snapped off in my hands trying to mount the the road wheels!

I almost lost it but I reminded myself that this was "fun" and methodically glued each suspension arm back on with thick CA and then still had time to basecoat, drybrush and apply an oil wash to the track before mounting!!

I also had a slight problem because I doubted Bill.  On his build log he had indicated to use 92 links for each side and I disagreed with my vast amounts of experience compared to him that it should be 94.  I was incorrect it was 92.

It turned out okay so here are a few pics:  I still need to mount the antenna, and I just basecoated all the Jerry Cans and other stowage I am going to mount on the rear rack.

Hey Bill,

Yeah I am a night owl it's the only time I have to find peace through working with my hands.

I have been busy doing my first dot fading\streaking which has been fuin and interesting and started chipping the turret.  

Thanks for the kind words I am glad you like it so far.

I picked up 26 watt flourescent natural light bulbs at Target for $5.95 a piece and they are equivalent to 100 watt incandescent.

My goal is to finish the weathering on the turret and hull by Sunday so I can start putting on the tracks.

Have a great weekend and thanks for taking the time to comment Bill.

Hi Edmund, it seems like you and I are the night owls around here, West Coast and awake, huh?

Anyway, I haven't checked in in a while, but I have been following your photos, it's looking really nice, I agree with Doog (like I'm qualified to DISagree with him), a bit more rusty-dusty streaking, but it's really stunning.

I like your photo booth, I built one, too, but I think my incandescent lights are too bright, they are blowing through the tissue and washing out my color.  Your photos are an amazing improvement.

I'll look at getting some compact flourescents, those 100w incandescents are just too much.

Anyway, very very nice, you are really killing this one.

Keep it up,

Bill

Thanks Karl, Wayne and of course Bill for your feedback on the Plunkinator.  I actually did not like the shots I posted last night because I forgot to turn my flash off on the camera itself and I had to make some adjustments to the lighting and the lightbox itself.

Here are a few after I correctd my previous mistakes and then I am back to work on the model itself. I am way behind.  Thanks everyone for your patience as I went off on a learning tangent!

Edmund, the photos and lighting are PRIMO now! Excellent lighting!

You can see the results of your efforts muc better now! And it's looking great, seriously! The weathering is really coming along very nicely!

Gotta get some subtle streaking in there now; rust streaks, dirt streaks, etc.

Looking good!

Introducing the Plunkinator!

I went to Office Staples and Target and the total cash outlay including two lamps, a tripod, two natural light 26 watt Flouresent bulbs, a pad of tracing paper, and a white poster board was $45.00.

I spent about an hour making it and then another hour testing different angles and lighting and here are the results:

Thanks again Bill for doing what you do so well and naturally which is to freely pass on your knowledge and experience. It has made my enjoyment of this hobby so much more richer.

Now guys what do you think of my weathering so far and what should I do next?

Cheers!

Edmund,

I can only claim credit for saving that link that someone else posted somewhere else (can't even remember where!) and I put in my Favorites. In an online community, the photos are the model so getting good photos is something that takes on more importance IMHO. You don't have to spend a fortune though with solutions like this but can still get good/great pics in the process. The idea of their being Plunkinators running around in posts gave me a smile though!

Schnobs wrote:

I would assume the guitar.

wbill76 wrote:

The reason natural light works so great is that it's diffused...and the easiest way to get that indoors is with nice even lighting. Here's a link I always point people too, easy way to get yourself a very simple photo booth setup without spending a fortune or needing a lot of space. You'll be amazed at what such a simple little thing can do for your photos. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

Excellent link Bill!  You must of read my mind in between meetings today I was doing granular web searches for digital photograph booths.  I had turned of my search filters on my work machine so I was a little suprized at some of the search results.

I am going to get right on building this week and I am going to officially name it the Plunkinator and every future build log will reference it as the final stage of the build. 

Pictures coming but I wonder if I should make a Grand Daddy Punkinator to take pictures of the Plunkinator?   hmmmmm....

The reason natural light works so great is that it's diffused...and the easiest way to get that indoors is with nice even lighting. Here's a link I always point people too, easy way to get yourself a very simple photo booth setup without spending a fortune or needing a lot of space. You'll be amazed at what such a simple little thing can do for your photos.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

agentg wrote:

This is looking really really good Schnobs. I love all things DAK, musta been reincarnated LOL, and cannot get enough of Afrika armor. Did the rack come with the kit or did you make it? If you made it share the wealth, I'll be putting those on every build LOL

Hey Wayne,

Thanks man I really like Afrika armor as well and the only reason I purchased this kit was because of the Jerry can rack.  It's a long story but I ended up with two identical kits so I want to reverse engineer the extra rack I have and scratch build some.  I will definately share that info as I go forward.

I love the music here as well, but not the rain I just endure that.

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, UGh! I sympathize with you, buddy! I remember playin in Seattle, and it rained, rained, rained, the two days we were there. People said it was "normal". I remember thinking I would kill myself if I lived there with the gloom and gray! No wonder "grunge" came from Seattle, lol!

I moved out to Seattle from North Dakota on Jan 3rd 1996.  Like most bad decisions it involved a woman.  In North Dakota unless it is actually raining or snowing and often at the same time the sun is shining.  When I first moved here everyone kept on asking me if I had seen the mountain yet and I had moved out here with my girlfried and was very busy looking for employment and had a strong suspicion that everyone out here was lazy. 

The first sunny day I saw Mount Raineer in it's full glory through my windshield I almost hit a parked car!  Interesting enough Seattle sells more Sun Glasses than any other metropolitan city of comparable size and we have actually have sun slow downs during out commutes! Don't ask!

I am way So I will try your ideal of turning off extra lamps and just use florescent lighting for pics on the 265 days a year I have no natural light.  Hey BTW what instrument do you play?  I would assume the guitar. 

Schnobs,

UGh! I sympathize with you, buddy! I remember playin in Seattle, and it rained, rained, rained, the two days we were there. People said it was "normal". I remember thinking I would kill myself if I lived there with the gloom and gray! No wonder "grunge" came from Seattle, lol!

I have a big ol' picture window behind my modeling desk, so I usually getgreat daylight photos. The only other thing I do at night is use my normal flourescent desk lamp with a flash to avoid as many shadows as I can. I don't have a photo booth--no room for one anywhere.

If you have the flourescent lamps, I would say to try possible not using ALL those lights you have, and tryjust the flourescent lights with your camera's flash? Maybe you have too much light hitting the model and causing all those shadows?

stick man wrote:

It looks very good I hope all your weathering works out well!

Thanks Orion!

wbill76 wrote:

The top-down look really shows off the detail work Edmund, making good progress.

Thanks Bill and also thanks for your tip about calling out the wrong part number in the DML instructions for assembling the jack in your build log that saved me some time. 

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, It's a little hard to make out the tinting of the paint in your photos because of the shadows--can you photograph your model outside in natural light, perhaps? That's really the best way to get a good look at the true color of your finish. It would be better to see what you've got going on in terms of the true finish. As far as what I can see here, it looks like everything is going proceeding to plan? I can't see anything that jumps out at me worth critiquing?

Karl,

I absolutely agree that pictures in natural light would show the true nature of the paint and weathering effects but I live in the convergence zone in Seattle!!  I laughed when I read it because to heck with the model I would love some natural light!  We have approximately 265 days of out of the year that it is cloudy and rainy and at my house because of the convergence zone it rains east to west and then an hour later west to east!

I also have an hour commute to and from campus so I do not see my house in the daylight except for weekends except for a few months in the summer.  It is a challenge painting and weathering and I look forward to days that the sun shines through the clouds and into my garage!  I use a combination of Sylvania daylight florescents and one 100 watt and one 60 watt incandescent GE Reveal lightbulbs in swingout lamps.

Any suggestions on how to improve the lighting for painting and taking digital pictures would be appreciated other than moving.    Do you use a dedicated photo booth?  I see some posts were people obviously do I need to do some research about that because I am enjoying taking the pictures as much as everything else.

Anytime you and Bill do not find something to critique is a good nights work!  My plan is to walk through as many weathering techniques as I can without forgetting less is more. 

I will try to get some outside natural light shots if possible later this week or weekend.

Thanks again Karl,

It looks very good I hope all your weathering works out well!

The top-down look really shows off the detail work Edmund, making good progress.

Schnobs,

It's a little hard to make out the tinting of the paint in your photos because of the shadows--can you photograph your model outside in natural light, perhaps? That's really the best way to get a good look at the true color of your finish. It would be better to see what you've got going on in terms of the true finish.

As far as what I can see here, it looks like everything is going proceeding to plan? I can't see anything that jumps out at me worth critiquing?

Build Update:

I was able to finish detailing and mounting the remainder of the pioneer tools.  I also applied a pin wash and dark brown wash to the entire vehicle before I detailed the tracks I wanted to mount on the hull front, glacis and additional space armor.  I had to make a mounting bracket for the small track run on the space armor which was fun.  I just bent some extra PE I had left over nothing really earth shattering but new to me. 

Here is where I am at the moment on weathering and have some oil fading, chipping and pigment fading still planned.  Please provide feedback as I go forward so I do not overdo or over state the weathering.  I am forcing myslef to slow down and think through each step as I proceed.

model maniac 96 wrote:

wow......well, I suppose that I can't say anything I have not said before, but still, great job man. Jim

Thanks Buddy.  Here is a build update from today:

I wanted to tone down the rust on the struts and finish detailing pioneer tools and get most of them mounted.  I also wanted to paint the antenna tray that had a nice wood grain to it to match the jerry can rack.  Here is how it turned out:

Hi Wayne,

I have placed a call to Homeland Security reporting your attempt to hijack this thread but I think the number was disconnected due to the fact that Government stopped paying their phone bills because they gave all their money to AIG! 

No worries if I had the answer I would provide it!

the doog wrote:

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"? You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it.  As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

Hey Karl,

According to the F.A.Q. book it states the following in the how to paint a helmet section:

Paint the base color with acrylics, using either a paintbrush or airbrush.  Apply a dark brown wash and allow it to dry.  Finally, apply a buff-colored Tamiya water mark letting it accumulate in the more horizontal areas.  It looks like a bugg colored wash with maybe a little gloss.  i do not see any decals but I cannot see both sides of the helmets so it doesn't mean there not there.

I will get that back issue.  I love to rust stuff gosh dogitt! 

I thought that I would use a pin wash made of brown wash and black oil pigments and would hit the struts then that that should do the trick.

Thanks for getting back with the info.

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard. Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures. Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here. Bill

Thanks for the support Bill,

I am following a plan on this one and so far it has paid off.

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update! Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

Hey Bill,

Yes you are right the effect will be hidden by the other cans so maybe I will just wait on the salt effect or try just one or two for fun and expereince.  Slow and steady is hard!

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"?

You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it. 

As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments

I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard.

Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures.

Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here.

Bill    

Thanks Stick Man and Marc for the kind words, and rest assured I wil not be using the salt method on the the vehicle itself just the jerry cans and the jack as a test.  After I finish mounting the accessories and pioneer tools I will be applying a wash brown and black pin wash before I start some dot oil fading.

I took a couple shots in some natural light that we had today which is quite rare in Seattle!   so I can track the color change and affects of weathering.

Edmund,

Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update!

Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, that looks really nice. But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind.  Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method?  I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Thanks Karl I was wondering when you might swing by for a look. 

I am trying to slow down on this one and actually plan out each weathering step as oppossed to the last one whch was a couple wild nights of being a mad scientist! 

I have no intention of using the "salt chipping" method on the vehcicle itself.  Excuse me if I was not clear.  I have a number of extra Jerry cans and an extra jack that I am going to exeriment with.  I also have four german helmets I want to try as well. Speaking of that In the Mig Jimenez F.A.Q. book he mentions using a Tamiya water mark on the helmets?  What the H. E. Double Hockey Sticks is that?

I could experiment with both methods at the same time.  Do you a cool tutorial other than the other link you alredy mentioned that demos the "Hairspray" method the most accurately?

One other question hey you started it!!

What is the best method to darken rust?  I am using as you know Mig Dark and light rust pigments and I have also used the Pigment fixer preceded and followed by Abteiung Dark rust oil washes but I want a darker more muted look.  I think the support strusts on the jerry can rack are still to bright.

Thanks again as always for the gentle and somtimes not so gentle nudges and shoves towards excellence!!

Cool looking tank.... I hope the salt weathering go's well for you.

Nice build.

Schnobs, that looks really nice.

But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind. 

Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method? 

I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Build Update:

I applied the last filter which was a darker brown and finished painting and weathering the tow cables. Here are a few pics:

Next steps will be finish detailing pioneer tools and accessories and mount as I complete each one.

The salt chipping experiement of 09 commences tomorrow!

plastickjunkie wrote:

Schnobs I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

Thanks for the mini-tutorial and base coat suggestions Plasticjunkie.  I have read about this method and was curious to try it so I am finishing up all the tow ropes, pioneer tools, and jerry cans this weekend so I will post the results.  I am also gong to use the salt chipping method on the jack which I will base coat Dark Grey. 

Thanks again for your helpful comments!

Schnobs

I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

plastickjunkie wrote:

That's coming along great. I like that jerry can rack. Are you going to try the 'salt' method for the chipping efffect on the cans?

Thanks Plasticjunkie & Jim for the kind words I am glad you like it is was fun doing and I plan to darken the rust on the support struts but it's going great. 

I thought the Jerry cans would be an excellent opportunity for me to try the "salt" method for chipping but I have a few questions I have not been able to get answered yet via my research and here they are:

1. Is regular salt going to be in 1/35th scale for chipping Jery cans?
2. I plan to paint both dunklegelb and Panzer Grey Jerry cans and I will use Panzer Grey for the base coat of the Dunklegelb but not sure what to use as a basecoat for Panzer Grey?  
3. I could just basecoat it a dark rust?
4. Would a chemical masking agent be more approropriate?

Build Update:

As promised here are a few pictures of the detailed the wood frame for the jerry cans:

I used a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments followed by a light dusting of Light Rust and Standard Rust Mig pigments.

I assembled half of the Jerry Cans last night.  I do not think I will be using all these for this build but I might as well get tham all done at the same time.  I am looking forward to painting them.

Edmund,

I was curious as to where you were headed with it by "stacking" filters. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just wanted to get a feel for what the end result you were angling for was. You're right about going dark...very easy to do, much harder to bring it back if you go too far.

wbill76 wrote:

Coming along nicely Edmund! Out of curiosity, what effect are you looking for in applying the second filter of Grey?

Hey Bill,

I have read a number of sources that recommend using varied tones of Filters especially on different components of the vehicle to add realism and variety.  I am not sure if I am going to do that now.  Here is where I am at a crossroads.  To cool my weathering jets last night so I would not get too dramatic or dark on the filters I detailed the wood frame for the jerry cranes with a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I really enjoy handbrushing with Vellejo model colors they go on like a dream. I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments.  I really liked how it turned out and will post pictures later today.

I plan to use the oil dot filtering method which will also darken the tone and potentailly negate the filter.  I can always add a darker Filter if the dot filter application does not result in the darker color I am looking for.  Getting darker is easily accomplished as opposed to getting lighter!

I want to stay subtle but the Force is strong in this one!

Thanks Jim I really enjoyed the decals and am getting more confident with them. 

I ordered some Mig Productions Dry Transfers to try as well.

Build Update:

I carefully started weathering tonight and applied two types of filters.  The first filter I used was a simple Oil wash using 592 Abteilung Oil paint with Oderless Minerals spirits.  The mix was about 10\90.

The effect was very subtle and I dried each area of the turret with a hair dryer to avoid tide marks.  I then applied a very light coat of Sin Filter Brown For Desert Yellow which is the lightest colored filter I could get.  The effect was just a little more noticeable.

The directions for the the Sin Filter states to wait two hours betwen coats so I  will allow it to dry overnight before I apply another Sin Filter Grey for Dark Yellow.

Here is how it looks so far:

Thanks Tony & Bill!

I had fun with the decals and I like how the color modulation worked out.  Bill I was spot on on the highlighting free handed.  I do believe I am ready for a Camouflage paint job! I

I want my weathering to be more subdued this go round which is the challenge and only be slowing down and thinking things through will that occur.

    Those decals look perfect and the color is just right in my eyes.

Tony the Mutt

Build Update:

This weekend ended up being very productive.  I wanted to try a variation on the Future application and I only sprayed two very light coats more like a misting and then waited about three hours before applying decals.  The first time I sprayed future I went really heavy on the coat and waited 24 hours.

I then applied some Micro Set on the areas of the model I was putting the first decal and used warm distilled water to prep.  I really had a blast with the little tiger decals.  I applied more Micro Set on the surface of the decal and then used a dry cloth to firmly blot dry.

I then waited approximately three hours before I applied two light coats of MM Flat Clear Acryl to seal the decals instead of a second coat of Future.  My hope is that this will provide enough proctection for the decals during the weathering process.  While I was waiting I finished the other two doors and fixed them in place. I really like the final look even though it hides the turret decals a little but it definately adds character. 

My next step is to start adding all the tools and details but I might put a light Brown wash filter first because it is begging to be weathered.  I hear it right now behind me whispering I am too clean! 

I hope everyone had a great weekend!  I need to slow down now because I do not want to rush this and I want to be subtle about the weathering and learn a few more techniques as well.

Cheers!

Thanks Jim!

You have been very kind to me in all my postings and it's appreciated.  Your encouragement and support in fact everyone's has helped me continue to strive to improve. 

I just sprayed a coat of Future an hour ago and I went a lot lighter in the coat this time so I will not have to wait 24 hours.  I am also going to try something different and not seal with the second coat of Future.  After applying decals later today I will seal with Model Master Flat Clear Acryl as the sealer coat.  I have also hear of people mixing future and a flat clear but I am going to try to seal the decals with just a flat clear.

It's not an original ideal Karl suggested it and I tend to agree if I can reduce one extra coat I will have more detail to work with.  I have nothing to lose except many hours of hard work! 

I will post later today with the results.

Cheers!

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Hi Schnobs. This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted. Bill

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Hi Schnobs. This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted. Bill

Thanks Bill I enjoyed the heck out of painting and weathering the interior.  If has fired me up for getting a a AM interior for my my next build.

Here is a few pics of what I was able to get done this evening.  I was able to mount one door one each side of the turret because I will have to spray future and decal before I mount the other doors on each side.  I also painted and mounted extra wheels and painted the leather pads on the cupola doors.

Hi Schnobs.

This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted.

Bill

wbill76 wrote:

Coming along nicely Edmund! It would appear that your headlights are in danger of becoming disconnected though...as the pics progressed first one and then the other went out of alignment. DML designed these to have fragile attachment points so you might want to recheck them so you don't inadvertently lose one along the way.

Thanks Bill yours too. It looks like we both had a long day modeling today. 

I still don't how you pick out the details so quickly and accurately.

I will re-attach the healdlights first thing.

I do appreciate your thoughful constructive comments. 

Regards,

Build Update:

I completed the majority of the assembly today and was able to basecoat and add some highlights.

I was impressed with the Model Master Acryl Armor Sand and can't wait to see it after the filtter, wash, oil paint fading and pigments.

Here are few pics of it in it's grey plastic glory!

After basecoating and color modulation lightened with MM Light Grey.

wing_nut wrote:

JEEZ you're a machine!  Good thing oyu weren't in charge of German production during he war Looks good so far and no reason to thinkthat should change  As for the magnifier, my choice is the Optivisor.  More mobile... can llok left and right easier.  Plus I set it a little high so it is easy to look under it for a normal view.  And for light, there is an LED light that attaches to the front of the lenses.  I don't have it... but I do want it.

This one has actually been pretty slow Marc compared to my second one.  I hate it when you have to be a grown-up, a father, a husband and make a living all beween builds...

I took a look at your web site and build logs today and I was very impressed!   I really like the PZ.IV G with winter wash.  I have heard people talk about the hair spray method and I read your log but I still have a lot of questions about it. It sound slike some people swear by it and others are really opposed to it.  Is there an end to end tutorial that you might point me to?

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Looks like a well-used interior for sure! The only suggestion I would have is that the spent shell basket was canvas and not metal so there wouldn't be any chipping there. Chipping around the top metal frame yes, but the basekt itself wouldn't have been chipped since it's cloth.

I must of searched a hundred times on what materials and colors the shell basket should be!

Oh well it is easy to get to and I have some new Vallejo Khaki and other sand colors that I had ordered to use on the sand bags I have planned.  I will make the changes.  If it was made of metal I made it look cool!

Thanks for keeping it real Bill!

Edmund,

Looks like a well-used interior for sure! The only suggestion I would have is that the spent shell basket was canvas and not metal so there wouldn't be any chipping there. Chipping around the top metal frame yes, but the basket itself wouldn't have been chipped since it's cloth.

JEEZ you're a machine!  Good thing oyu weren't in charge of German production during he war

Looks good so far and no reason to thinkthat should change  As for the magnifier, my choice is the Optivisor.  More mobile... can llok left and right easier.  Plus I set it a little high so it is easy to look under it for a normal view.  And for light, there is an LED light that attaches to the front of the lenses.  I don't have it... but I do want it.

Build Update:

I took some time off from assembly to plan how to paint the turret interior due to the the fact that I want to model the turret doors open on both sides but I had not ideal how to paint an interior!

The great thing about the internet is that it has terrabytes of historical data which is a double edged sword.  I checked and rechecked data sources and finally decided to give it my best shot and interpation of an open hatched interior in Afrika and here is what I came up with.

Oh and I checked with Bill as well!

I approached painting and weathering the interior just like I learned to approach the exterior.  I used my AB to base coat the interior with Model Master Acryl Panzer Interior Buff after masking any areas that might end up with paint on the exterior.  I then then used Poly Scale Reefer Grey for paint chipping.

My next step was to use a Mig Production Brown for Desert Yellow Filter to provide tone and blend in paint chips.  I also added a light coating of Mig Pigment Gulf War Sand to blend everything together.  I was happy with the end result and it looks like my ideal of a well worn desert vehicle.  I also used Squadron's White Putty to add texture to the interior before I base coated it to simulate a rough trexture from multiple coats of primer and Dark Yello over Panzer Grey.

Excellent thanks loads Bill.

I will use Panzer Grey and Steel for the main gun breech unless I am way off. I will take a look on the forums and keep an eye out for examples still on a steep learning curve having fun!   

wbill76 wrote:

I bought mine at Office Depot...it's stainless steel and has a flourescent bulb. Can't recall the level of magnification it has. Those are the two factors you should consider (along with price) if you decide to go that route. The flourescent light is 22w and powerful without generating heat like you get with incandescent.

Hey Bill,

I picked up a swing arm with a 75 watt incandescent buld and three-diopter lens magnifer for $25.00 at Staples today.  What a difference!  I can't wait to use it for painting.

Speaking of painting I aplan to model the turret side doors open on both sides like Scratchmod did on his PZ.III.  I find it very visually interesting but I am at a loss on how to paint the interior and detailing the breech.  I can figure out most of it I am sure, but do you think I should use MM Panzer Interior Buff for the interior except for the inside of the doors?

Thanks Bill,

Great to know.  I have same condition a stigmatism corrected by contacts.  The thought of putting one of those on made me nauseeous just to think about much less do.

Can you suggest a good lighted swing arm magnifier or are they pretty much all the same?

Thanks as always!

Regards,

Edmund,

I have a swing arm magnifier with its own light source that I use when I need to get extra magnification. I have to wear corrective lenses (contacts or glasses) and have a heavy astigmatism/blurring and using an Optivisor tended to make me dizzy/nauseous so I opted instead for the stand-alone magnifier as a compromise. It makes for a very handy additional light source too and I tend to use it more for that but it's always available for when I need it!

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, you're making good progress and snow is as good an excuse as anyone can hope for to get in build time! On your closeup of the hull nose and glacis it looks like there's a gap with the weld seam? May just be shadows from the lighting but thought I should point it out to you just in case.

Tanks Bill pardon the Pun!  I can always count you to provide thoughful constructive comments to improve my builds.  I have been doing all my assembly and painting with the naked eye with some digital macro shots to check close work.  I did see a little gap on either side in the direct sunlight this morning that I can fill with Milliput.

Do you use an Optivisor or some other magnifying method as you assemble and paint?  If so do you have any suggestions or preferences. It's not a huge issue now but some of the PE I have seen would benefit from a magnification tool and I assume it will become a requirment to paint figures. 

I do know Karl uses an Optivisor based on the infamous photo of him painting road wheels. 

Edmund, you're making good progress and snow is as good an excuse as anyone can hope for to get in build time! On your closeup of the hull nose and glacis it looks like there's a gap with the weld seam? May just be shadows from the lighting but thought I should point it out to you just in case.

ps1, the Pz III hull design actually provided for escape hatches in the hull sides for both the driver and the radio operator up through the L model but deleted them on the M and later. You'll often see knocked out Pz IIIs with one or both of these side hatches open as it was the quickest way out.  

Build Update:

Had a great build day on Saturday.  It snowed here in Seattle which provided all the excuse I needed to put off outside Honey Do's..

I remember I asked Karl one time for his suggestions on different model manufactures and he had recommended Cyber-Hobby kits if I liked "a lot of fidely small parts". I am still at it and I am about to hire a work gang of fleas to help me!   I have no ideal how the 1:72 scale guys do it!  My hats are off to them that's for sure!  I have enough challenges at 1:35th scale.

Here are a few pics of progress so far.   I hope to finish up actual assembly tommorw or Monday latest.

Cheers!

scratchmod wrote:

Hi Schnobs..She's looking good dude. The post your looking for on my III N is on page 5 of the constructive feedback forum. Yhe pics are larger there and should help more. Rob

Rob thanks so much for pointing me to the your link!  Fantastic pictures and the jerry can rack is amazing not to mention the sandbags!  I am posting the link below so everyone can get a chance to enjoy ii:

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=130538&page=1

Did you glue the sandbags down and basecoat and weather in place?  The pictures led me to believe that.  Great tip about using nylon stocking for texture I was going to try a t-shirt first though because I have more of them than nylon stockings. 

Thanks again and expect more questions my friend!  Excellent Job!!

that is awesome! can't wait to see more!!!

                         Jim

Hi Schnobs..She's looking good dude. The post your looking for on my III N is on page 5 of the constructive feedback forum. Yhe pics are larger there and should help more.

Rob

Build update:

I got some solid work done tonight because my wife is a Gem!!  She took my kid duty tonght so I could have a few hours to myself.  Here is a pic where I am at the moment.  I mistakenly painted the drive housings for the sprockets and the idler mounts when I painted road wheels so that explains the two tone.  I will just be really easy on those areas when I spry the prime coat.

Schnobs wrote:

model maniac 96 wrote: nice, lookin great so far Schnobs! can't wait to see the end result!!! Jim Thanks Jim!  Good to hear from you again.  This one has been slower due to work and famly committments.  I did loose my first part to the carpet monster in my case the cement monster. I think my dog ate it! I am still looking I believe I can remake it easily enough.

Thanks Rob!  The pictures are awesome.  Ginormously cool!

It looks like you modeled a few of the sandbags to spill out sand and that would be cool to do as well. A guy could probably use pieces of flattened solder to simulate bag ties. 

Also did you install an interior?  I see you have the side doors open on the turret.

One more question sorry I am excited!  Do you have any pics of th rear of the vehicle I would like to see how you painted the Jerry cans.  I looked for pics of this on Armorama today and saw your other pics over there.  Very nice as well!

Thanks Again,

Heys Schnobs...sorry for the late reply. As far as the bags go,I think I used Tamiya Buff and Some green. I used more green on some and less on others. I applied the usual washes and dusting with pigments.

As far as the vehicle color goes, I think it was an old bottle of Pactra Afrika brown with some Tamiya Buff to tone it down.

Here are a couple of pics of the bags,I hope they help you.

I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with yours. I know how you feel with the airbrush,some days I can't hold it to save my life, and having paint spilling everywhere.

keep up the posts

scratchmod

terry35 wrote:

, Schnobs, looking forward to seeing this progress. I too have the MIG book and think its just brilliant, best modelling tool I ever bought, expensive but worth it. Good luck with your project, if its anything like your Mk.IV then you have another winner. Regards, Terry.

Thanks Terry I have larger goals for this one and plan to add AM accessories like german helmets, sandbags and maybe a weapon or two. I actually plan to make the sandbags that should be fun. I was like a kid at Christmas last night reading the FAQ book.  My wife callled me a big nerd which I accepted with grace...

, Schnobs, looking forward to seeing this progress. I too have the MIG book and think its just brilliant, best modelling tool I ever bought, expensive but worth it.

Good luck with your project, if its anything like your Mk.IV then you have another winner.

Regards,

Terry.

model maniac 96 wrote:

nice, lookin great so far Schnobs! can't wait to see the end result!!! Jim

Thanks Jim!  Good to hear from you again.  This one has been slower due to work and famly committments.  I did loose my first part to the carpet monster in my case the cement monster.

I think my dog ate it!

I am still looking I believe I can remake it easily enough.

wbill76 wrote:

No problem Edmund, just wanted to be sure you weren't copying the incorrect scheme just because I'd done it that way. I'm sure it won't take you long to get comfortable with your airbrush to start doing camo schemes...most people start out the other way around and are deathly afraid of monotone schemes!

Yes I love the challenge of making a Monotone interesting. Color modulation is a cool technique.  I did do the ring around my second base with my AB free handed and I was actualy suprised how easy it was.  I have a Badger 100LK double action with a medium tip and the learning curve was a little steep because I had never even touched an airbrush before but acrylics are forgiving. 

I liked this link and plan to use this technique on this build.

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2006

I also find doing road wheels very Zen and I even painted both sides of each wheel.

Also I have become very fond of MIG Productions products and Mig Jinemez techniques and style.  I have both of the Night Vision DVD's which are really excellent.  I had a little scare this afternoon when my wife asked me if I had ordered objectionable materials over the internet and handed me a brown wrapped privacy envelope about the size of a big magazine. It finally came!

I am looking forward to reading and absorbing the techniques.  Back to modeling.  Take care Bill!

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the pics very cool!  I had to stare at them for quite awhile to pick out the two-tone Tropen scheme.  I realy like your PZ.IV F2 but if I tried that scheme right now free handed with my AB skills it would be crap shoot how it would turn out.  Sometimes my Badger feels like a magic wand and other times I feel like I am holding a telephone pole!

I am getting better though.  I have Cyber-Hobby Pz.IV Ausf D "Vorpanzer that I am going to build after this with a montone Panzer Grey and then it's Cammo Time!

I have a Tamiya VI Tiiger1 that my wife gave me for Christmas that will be my first Cammo experiment.  The model itself is large enough for me to get good practice.

Schnobs - looking forward to what you do with this guy. Seems like a terribly sweet kit!

Scratchmod - wow. That's pretty awesome.

scratchmod wrote:

Your off to a good start. I agree with the color choice. I too am going by Bill's F2 build, and will use the same colors on my F2. The sand bag method works great, I've been doing it that way for years. I finished my N a couple of months ago with lots of sandbags.Here's how my bags came out. The Dragon kit is awesome and I'm hooked on them. Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the pic your PZ.III looks awesome and is very close to what is in my head for mine.  I hope you haven't been peeking in there I will have to put my tinfoil hat back on.  DML kits are my only expereince so far but I am really impressed with their quality and detail.

I would really appreciate more pics of yours or if you have it posted somewhere a link. 

What colors did you use on the sandbags and what color wash?  I would guess a Tamiya Buff or lightened Khaki with a burnt umber wash or wash brown.  Also what colors did you use for chipping.  I used a Poly Scale Reefer grey on my last PZ.IV and it looked okay just maybe a little to dark.

I used to dream about girls and now I dream about DML kits!!

wing_nut wrote:

Hey scnobs looks good so far. I missed the finally of the last IV, gotta go look for that one.  Without seeing the other color side by side that looks like a color that will work. And NO i it is not my intention to rekindlke any sort of is that the right color discussions That seems to be the standard sandbag method.  Shaoe it, texture it and add the seams

Thanks Marc,

Yes I was not intending to cause controversy I have only respect for eveyone's opinions and techniques I was just sharing mine.  I like to see all the variations on color that people come up with it is very subjective that's for sure.  I promise I will not paint any German Armor pink though I am not that much of a free spirit!

Edmund,

Ought to be a great project! It's worth pointing out that the color I used for the III-N, Afrika Grunbraun, was incorrect for a N. Afrika vehicle in late '42 early '43. At the time I didn't know that and went with what I thought "looked right" vs. the box art. After I had built this one, I came across a color photo of III-Ns with sPzAbt 501 being delivered in Tunisia and realized that it should've had the two-tone Tropen scheme like what I used on my IV F2.

That photo was a poor quality reproduction on the back of a book...but I was able to find a better quality of the original:

Unfortunately Testors doesn't replicate their full range of Afrika colors in the MM Acryl line, so you would have to mix your own colors for both to try and replicate the two-tone if you wanted to go that route.

Your off to a good start. I agree with the color choice. I too am going by Bill's F2 build, and will use the same colors on my F2.

The sand bag method works great, I've been doing it that way for years. I finished my N a couple of months ago with lots of sandbags.Here's how my bags came out.

The Dragon kit is awesome and I'm hooked on them.

Rob

Hey scnobs looks good so far. I missed the finally of the last IV, gotta go look for that one.  Without seeing the other color side by side that looks like a color that will work. And NO i it is not my intention to rekindlke any sort of is that the right color discussions

That seems to be the standard sandbag method.  Shaoe it, texture it and add the seams