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DML Bison II Complete 04-28-12

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
DML Bison II Complete 04-28-12
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:38 PM

I started in on a new project today that I had received as a Christmas present from my loving wife. The kit is a new one and builds on DML's previous Pz II kits with new parts specifically for the Bison II configuration. I'll be builiding it mostly OOB with the addition of MK workable tracks in place of the kit static indy links.

Work began with Step 1 in terms of cleaning up all the road wheels and return rollers by sanding away their mold seams, assembling the idlers, and getting the sprockets off the sprues. Step 1 also wants you to install the wheels onto the suspension arms but that's not really a good idea in my opinion and I left them off for easier painting and detailing later on as a matter of course. The step instructions have some minor errors...you should chose the "fancy" type of sprocket E2 for both sides and not use one fancy E2 and one plain E3 as the instructions indicate. 

Step 2 installs the suspension elements from Step 1 onto the lower hull along with the front hull plate and final drive housings. The instruction diagram that shows the arrangement for the suspension parts left side vs. right side has the first five suspension parts reversed, something you find out quickly enough when you try to install them to the hull. The sprockets and idlers were left off to facilitate track installation later on. 

Next up will be more work on the lower hull.

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
Posted by Hinksy on Saturday, January 28, 2012 4:51 PM

Hey Bill,

I'm in for this - I checked this build out the other day at the LHS whilst the rep was there from the importer and I was really impressed. I decided that it would have to grace my cabinet sometime this year! A fun-looking build that will go well on my 'SPG' shelf Yes

I've nearly finished my Marder II (please check out my blog buddy and comment-it's just below this thread) and this build will look nice alongside it. I'll be interested to see how it turns out.

Have you got plans for those unwanted Magic Tracks? They'd fit my Marder II perfectly  Wink I decided against AM tracks on this occasion as the old Tamiya kit was so cheap - Friuls would cost more than the kit as would MK's!

Looking forwards to more Bill.

Take care,

Ben Toast

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, January 28, 2012 5:41 PM

Ben,

No plans per se for the Magic tracks, I'm not sure if they will fit the Tamiya sprockets or not though. Count the number of teeth on your sprockets (DML's sprockets have an error with only 26 teeth and that determines whether or not the tracks will fit correctly or not). This isn't an issue with the MK tracks as they were designed for the Tamiya Wespe which also only has 26 teeth but not sure if the same is true on your Marder II.

If you're willing to pay the postage to send them across the pond, shoot me a PM.

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
Posted by Hinksy on Saturday, January 28, 2012 5:50 PM

That's great Bill, I'll have a count!

Ben Toast

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, January 28, 2012 6:23 PM

Bill, I swear I was sitting in Barnes & Nobles today, reading Scale Military Modeler International and saw this advertised as a "new" product, and I thought of you. How weird! For some reason I thought you'd built one of these already?

Or was that Tony? Didn't somebody build one recently?

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Posted by modeler#1 on Saturday, January 28, 2012 6:33 PM

Nice! I wouldnt mind getting that one ethier

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Saturday, January 28, 2012 10:05 PM

Karl Karl Karl

I've got the old Alan kit built with many mods and ready for paint. Lets relax and watch a master at work do his thing.Big Smile

Tony lee

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Saturday, January 28, 2012 10:32 PM

And away he goes.......Of and running on another build so quickly? Must have a break in the school schedule?

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, January 29, 2012 5:48 AM

Looks good Bill,will follow

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 29, 2012 10:25 AM

OH YEAH----I've loved this kit ever since I snagged one several months ago from Sprue Bros...really a nice kit in the box and one of those unusual subjects that seem to grab your eye...I actually think this thing is sleek and attractive in an eclectic kind 'o way...Yeah

Looking forward to seeing it come together on your bench...Yes

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, January 29, 2012 11:46 AM

Karl, Tony is the one who lifted the drought on this one by courageously building the Alan kit with modifications and triggering the DML release last year. We are all grateful for his sacrifice! Big Smile

Eric, the MBA program I'm in runs each course in 6 weeks increments back to back with no breaks and each class is a little different in terms of work load requirements and such. My current class (Business Law) just started and doesn't have as much work at the outset as the previous one (more reading but less research). Combined with the end of the NFL season means I have more time on the weekends as well to build...so this one's getting off to a fast start as a result and I'm hoping to be able to keep up a regular pace with it through the building stages at least. We'll see!

Tojo, glad to have you on board!

Manny, have to agree with you about the lines of the vehicle...of all the Bison/Grille designs, the II has the meanest streamlined look to it IMHO. Especially when you compare it to the Box on Wheels Bison I!  

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Sunday, January 29, 2012 4:13 PM

Amazing topic Bill, it's on my wish list since I was a teenager, but alas I'll never touch a north African subject. 

Good luck with this one, its an amazing subject.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, January 29, 2012 4:16 PM

Ok terry, I have to ask...why would you "never" touch a N. Africa subject? Smile

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, January 30, 2012 6:13 PM

More progress to report today in terms of work done on the lower hull.

Continuing on with Step 3, the rear hull plate is installed to the hull tub. I installed the plate first then added the rear lifting eyes, idler mount bracing bar, tow pintle, and crank starter cap as called for in the instructions.

Step 4 is a busy step as it deals with much of the interior of the open fighting compartment. Molded-in locater lines help with the placement of the bracing beams at the front and rear but you do have to be careful to get parts M35/36 aligned correctly at the front. One end is slightly lower than the other and the lower end goes at the rear. I installed the bases to the lower hull first and then added the cross beams instead of assembling it outside the hull as one unit as the instructions indicate. It's a good idea to install the bases, add the front cross beam, then install the drive shaft tunnel on the hull side, then add the 2nd cross beam to insure everything plays nice and sits correctly.

I also installed the base of the radio operator's seat and the rack mount for the radio transformer but left off the actual seats, the transformer, and the MP40 ammo pouches until after the interior is painted and ready for detailing. Last but not least the rear hull firewall and gun trail spike mount was added along with the rear hull bolt flange to round out the step.

Step 5 assembles the driver's armored box and the large fender/glacis stowage box as a single unit. The kit provides interior details for the side vision port and a pad for the top driver's hatch...but since the box mounts directly onto a solid glacis plate and there's no interior provided, these were left closed up and those details skipped.

Step 6 is an important, but slightly odd, step in the kit assembly. I say odd because it wants you to install the fenders directly to the glacis without using the lower hull to insure proper alignment. What is odder still is that the instructions don't actually have a step where you do install the fenders and glacis to the lower hull...they just magically show up that way in the final Step 21 of the instructions!

So, with that in mind, I first installed the glacis to the lower hull and let that set up. Then I added the fenders to either side and found it necessary to trim the front tab edges slightly to get them to line up properly with the glacis edge. The contact points with the lower hull aren't very wide so it's important to make sure each fender lines up flush and level on both sides.

Once the fenders were set, I added the angled braces and Bosch lights, using a #76 finger drill and 0.5mm diameter solder to add the missing conduit wiring. I also installed the front tow points from Step 21, the glacis access hatches, and the siren and hatch stop. The stowage box/driver's box combo from Step 5 was also installed to round things out.

Next up will be starting work on the fighting compartment upper sections.

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Monday, January 30, 2012 6:43 PM

Not bad Bill not bad at all. Your power of build engineering is as keen as a woman's tongueWink

Very clean bud

Tony lee

 

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Monday, January 30, 2012 6:57 PM

Yayyyyy... Bill builds a Bison,

                        it'll be a Nice'un      http://freeemoticonsandsmileys.com/animated%20emoticons/Funny%20Animated%20Emoticons/into%20a%20toilet.gif

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Monday, January 30, 2012 7:02 PM

OK Bill...you are getting sneaky....somehow I missed this one the first time around Crying

Now....with the catch up, it is up to the usual Bill WIP and looks like you are making good progress. Nice to have you back in Armor-land.

We have marked the target and will continue to observe for your adjusting rounds.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, January 30, 2012 7:40 PM

Great process!  I thought you only post updates on Sundays.  Good to have you back here in Armor! Yes

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 3:25 PM

Tony, thanks will have to remember that one the next time I get into an argument with my wife! Stick out tongue

Steve, nice to see you back around these parts and to have you along for the ride.

Mike, well it was posted on a Saturday so I suppose you could be forgiven the momentary lapse until the update cycled around. Wink Thanks for following along.

Andy, the "old" schedule used to be posts on Sunday evenings as I only built on the weekends but now that I'm in school full time the windows of opportunity for bench time shift around more, so you are just as likely to see updates during the week as on the weekendss depending. I will do my best to keep to a regular updating schedule, just not on a single set day! Beer

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Arkansas
Posted by K-dawg on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 4:16 PM

Very nice build so far Bill. I've been waiting for this cool little machine to hit the streets as well. Bought one, now it's crammed up in the stash with everything else.... ha!...

You better hang onto the kit tracks until you get past the MK construction. As i'm sure you know MK is notorious for giving you JUST enough links for whatever vehicle it is. Your set is for the PzII/Wespe... The Bison II obviously has an extra road wheel so you're going to need about another inch of track on each side. I would venture to say there probably won't be enough to complete the job without robbing some links from the kit. May be wrong but all the times I've used them there were only couple of extras. Anyhow, you'll figure it out... :)

Kenneth Childres, Central Arkansas Scale Modelers

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 4:31 PM

Thanks Kenneth both for the interest and the warning about the MKs! I'm a regular user of them and some sets provide extras and others don't and you can never assume that a set will or won't provide you with them. Fortunately the Wespe set does provide extra links (the Wespe were also constructed on stretched Pz II hulls, just without the extra road wheel) and I counted the number of links in the set and there are 115 per side while the DML Magics are provided at 112 per side, so I should be in good shape. Just in case though I do have some leftover MK's from when I did the Tamiya Wespe a while back as some added insurance if I need it. Wink

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Arkansas
Posted by K-dawg on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 4:36 PM

Right on.. You're covered then. I've used the Pz III set and Panther set but since then I have switched to Friul for the most part. They give you lots of extras.

Take care,

Kenneth

Kenneth Childres, Central Arkansas Scale Modelers

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Allentown, PA
Posted by BaBill212 on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 4:51 PM

Hi wBill,,,      always enjoy your work...........................   Will be watching Pal

Enjoy the ride!

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, February 1, 2012 3:50 PM

Thanks Bill, glad to have you along for the ride! Yes

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, February 3, 2012 4:15 PM

After careful study of the instructions and how the various components of the fighting compartment fit together, I decided to skip ahead to Step 10 and construct the rear portion first. Everything in the fighting compartment has to align within fairly tight space tolerances so it made sense to start at the back and work my way forward.

Step 10 assembles the rear hull portion out of three sections. The firewall section is molded with 2 of the brass shell base holders empty but the openings are molded solid. I corrected this with a drill bit and pin vise followed by careful sanding with a round needle file. I also installed the engine compartment intake inserts that are called for in Step 13 to insure everything played nice and to provide a little more structural rigidity to the top plate during the assembly.

I also assembled and installed the muffler to the rear plate. While not shown in the photo below, improved on the hollow exhaust pipe by deepening the opening and thinning out the sides of the pipe to be more in-scale with a combination of a drill bit and sharp #11 blade point.

I was going to complete the rest of the assemblies for the rear plate top as called for in Steps 11 and 14 but thought better of it after a test fit revealed that I was going to need to apply some pressure to get a good join with the fender on the right side of the hull. I did go ahead and install the hatch and PE grills and will add the other parts after the interior is painted, the gun installed, and the rear compartment glued in place.

I returned to Step 7 which deals with the upper right side panel of the fighting compartment. The kit provides a choice of what details to install here but for some reason doesn't call out the choice until Step 9, so if you aren't paying attention you can miss it. The choice is between two ready 15cm rounds or a large stowage box mounted between the angled support braces. Good interior photos of the Bison II don't exist and none survived the war so DML has done some speculation here of what might or might not have been there and either option is plausible in my opinion. I chose to go with the large stowage box.

I have to point out a potential pitfall at this stage and it deals with the angled support braces. They are shown in Step 7 attached directly to the side panel but the panel doesn't have any guide as to how they should be placed. If you go with the 2 ready round option that helps but the real locations are determined by the tab slots on the fender, so it's best if you install the braces to the fender and not to the panel as directed. Test fits along with the rear hull portion provide a guide as to how deep the large box should be mounted as it has to overhang the fender edge and not sit flush.

Important note: the rear hull portion IS NOT INSTALLED at this point, only dry-fit...it needs to remain loose to allow for the gun trail to be installed correctly in later steps.
 

That took me across the way to the left side of the compartment. There are a couple of things that have to be taken into consideration on this side. The first is that while the instructions call for 2 radio sets to be assembled in Step 9 (one receiver, one transmitter), the kit provides enough parts to assemble just 1. The missing parts are the mount frames RD4 and RD8, so I was able to fit only the transmitter because I had already assembled it before I discovered the parts shortage. I moved the transformer from behind the radio to next to it to fill the gap left by the missing 2nd unit and used a #76 finger drill to prep the radio and transformer to take wiring later on. The base of the transformer was glued down but both the radio and the actual transformer were dry fit only to test the layout and will be painted separately before final installation.

The other item for consideration are the 6 charge boxes, installed in two stacks of 3. These have raised lines molded on them top and bottom that make it difficult to "stack" them if not removed. They also add to the height of the stack slightly so removing them not only makes it easier to install them it also insures they sit the correct height under the panel overhang.

I added the other interior items that mount directly to the panel and used small strips of blue masking tape to test fit the panel and make sure everything sat correctly.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Friday, February 3, 2012 6:11 PM

Bill, I W-I-S-H those buttheads at Dragon headquarter hire you to re-do all of their instructions... I am sure they will pay you well!  Looking great... I have to get this kit one day. 

Andy

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Friday, February 3, 2012 6:31 PM

Dragon still providing excellent instructions I see.Bang Head

Glad you used the storage box on the right side Bill. I read it only carried 10 rounds 2 of which were laid out on a mat on the floor under the gun for lack of a place to put them. I bet the other four charges were stored in that right hand side box as well as the fuses too.

Hang in there Tex you're doing just fine.Yes

Tony lee

 

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, February 3, 2012 7:03 PM

Andy, well if DML ever does decide to invest in quality instructions I would be happy to render my services! Wink I suppose it's not ever going to happen though for whatever reason...I've yet to build a DML kit in 10+ years that didn't have at least 1 error somewhere in the instructions. This kit does have a real doozy in the final step though. I scanned it below so you can see it...look closely at the right side of the fighting compartment and I bet you'll figure it out. Wink

Tony, I had come across the same info and the box that sits on top of the rear hull is large enough to accomodate 7 rounds (DML even provides the inserts in them if you decide to show the box open, a nice touch IMHO) or maybe 8 depending on how it was actually constructed. Judging from the one overhead color shot that you had posted in your Bison II build thread the large box seems to make more sense to me vs the two rounds. Plus I'm not a big fan of the way DML did the rounds with them molded together with the rack/holder so the box won out. Thanks for the encouragement!

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, February 3, 2012 10:28 PM

Geez, it looks like you've got your hands full with this one, Bill. Thanks again for calling out all the snafu's--your WIPs are invaluable for all these great observations and tips. Smile

It's looking pretty busy in that interior in the directions! Should be fun to paint!

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Saturday, February 4, 2012 6:50 AM

Sneaky ..... a mid week posting by Bill .....he must be testing us. I have to agree with some previous comments.... you need to review and correct Dragon's dumb directions. Before they put a new kit out the should send it to you for corrections to the instructions.

Moving along nicely.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

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