Sturmgeschutz Sdkfz. 167 Dio *finished*

Basically, yes---embed the rocks in the clay while its still wet--and don't forget to press in track marks from your model too, like, behind it where it would have driven. It looks pretty silly when you don't have tracks behind where a 20 ton vehicle just rolled!

The whole "rocks" thin depends on your terrain. If you're modeling your vehicle in a gsrasy field, it's not so important. But of you're on mixed ground, put in some rocks.

Yep. Rubble and rocks and stuff, you add while wet so that they are a little embedded into the "ground". This avoids the "big rocks on a driveway" look. Grass, topsoil and leaves can go on top without looking out of place though.

Nice work on the handpainted ambush camo, very impressive.  

I did look at the tutorials, except in the sturmtiger you added rubble and such when the celluclay was still wet, but on the hetzer, it sounded like you added the grass and such with glue after the celluclay was dry. Which is why I was asking for clarification  

Yeah, DEFINTELY seal the base!! Otherwise, it may warp. You can use a spray lacquer, like Dullcoat, but to be honest, with the price of that stuff, you'd be better off to go get a big can of sealing lacquer at a discount chain, and use that. You should seal it with at least two heavy coats just to be sure.

The cheap paint is fine. Mix it in-it helps a lot in not having to paint the whole thing, although you may want to anyway for color variation and texture. And any kind of latex gloves are fine.

Seriously, take a look at that link I sent you of the base tutorial. And look again at the one of my Sturmtiger--you can see how the Celluclay is mixed in the one container on the right >>>

the doog

That's the stuff!!!

A word of advice---DON'T ADD TOO MUCH WATER! And cut the water needed in half by also adding acrylic paint to tint the clay. Use cheap craft store-type paint. AND, and white glue at the same time. The more water-based glue and paint you add, and the less water you use, the less it is prone to shrink or "lift" off the base.

Add a small bit of water, paint, and glue together, and mix it up with your hands (wear one of those rubber gloves you can get at auto shops in bulk). It should be the consistency of like, thick oatmeal--if you've ever microwaved it too long, that's what I"m talking about.

Remember--the less water, the less shrinkage and the quicker it dries.

awesome. Glad I got the correct stuff. I bought some 68 cent brown paint, is that good? I also have some random acrylic paints I can use too. Can you use regular latex gloves? I know where to get a bunch for free.

Do you need to seal the wooden base? If so, what should I use? I have dull-coat lacquer...

when do you add the grass and trees and sticks and rocks and stuff? When its dry and you poke it in, or when its still wet?

That's the stuff!!!

A word of advice---DON'T ADD TOO MUCH WATER! And cut the water needed in half by also adding acrylic paint to tint the clay. Use cheap craft store-type paint. AND, and white glue at the same time. The more water-based glue and paint you add, and the less water you use, the less it is prone to shrink or "lift" off the base.

Add a small bit of water, paint, and glue together, and mix it up with your hands (wear one of those rubber gloves you can get at auto shops in bulk). It should be the consistency of like, thick oatmeal--if you've ever microwaved it too long, that's what I"m talking about.

Remember--the less water, the less shrinkage and the quicker it dries.

I found  CelluClay and it's described instant paper mache--just add water. Is that the right stuff?

the doog

CallSignOwl,

Here's a base tutorial I did using Celluclay----NOT "milliput". I never use Miliput for bases. Celluclay is readily available at any "chain" hobby store---AC Moore's, Michael's, etc.

BASE TUTORIAL LINK

This should give you an idea of where to start. It's pretty "standard fare" for a dio base. I think the way you mentioned with the picture frame and plaster, etc, is more work,and neither as stable, nor durable.

haha, oops! that would make a difference. Ill check the local art store for the stuff (The big box store is about an hour away as the crow walks) . Ill check the random antique store around here to see if I cant find a cheap plaque base. I dont want to spend more than I have to at the trophy shop.....(plenty of plaque bases there, but expensive!)

CallSignOwl,

Here's a base tutorial I did using Celluclay----NOT "milliput". I never use Miliput for bases. Celluclay is readily available at any "chain" hobby store---AC Moore's, Michael's, etc.

BASE TUTORIAL LINK

This should give you an idea of where to start. It's pretty "standard fare" for a dio base. I think the way you mentioned with the picture frame and plaster, etc, is more work,and neither as stable, nor durable.

Winetanker

Do you see Karl's aka the doog's little tutorial on building a base in his Sturmtiger thread???

yeah, but I dont have a plaque big enough for a 1/35 tank and motorcycle, nor do I have milliput handy.  I can get a lot of supplies at teh campus store, but milliput isnt one of them. Plaster is, however. And foamcore

Do you see Karl's aka the doog's little tutorial on building a base in his Sturmtiger thread???

Im doing some detail work right now and it dawned on me that the figure looks like he is leaning out to talk to someone. That means he needs someone to talk to! I have a German motorcycle kit with a rider that I can fashion up pretty quickly, but Im thinking that this is turning into a little diorama!

So, brainstorm. Im thinking I can make a basic base out of an old picture frame, foam core and some plaster. Scrounge up some twigs and dirt and I can make myself a little scene. Now Ive never done a dio before so Im gonna need a bit of help.

(hint hint) :P

Winetanker

Nice work, Owl.

It's hard to get those 'feathered' edges without an airbrush.

Coming along nicely Owl, good work on the hand painted camo!

Winetanker

Nice work, Owl.

It's hard to get those 'feathered' edges without an airbrush.

yeah it is. The edges will become more indistinct once I add the filters and washes

Nice work, Owl.

It's hard to get those 'feathered' edges without an airbrush.

I wasn't critiquing your work Owl. Don't think that 'cause I'm really not in the position to offer much advice. I'm just saying that its something that can be overdone. Looking at all the old photos available you can tell what tracked vehicles generally had more slack than others due to their design, and those old photos are about the best reference to start with.

Great work BTW, especially on the camo. I'm glad you like the painting and weathering process. More often than not that takes the wind right out of my sails. Can't wait to see this when you're finished.

Nice job on the hand-painted camo. Looks all set for the weathering!

Nice!

speaking of my current build, Ive started the painting process. No airbrush for me right now,  so this is gonna be hand-painted.

The three basic colors are on, but are not a garish as they appear in the photo. The flash really saturated the colors. They were lightened when I added the blending

blending and lightening complete!

how it looks with the shields (which are just hanging there for picture's sake)

next is weathering....yay!

novembergray

One thing I'd say Owl is to be careful not to overdo the sag in your tracks, which I think a lot of guys do. There's not a lot that's more important to a crew in the field than maintaining their track tension and other maintenance. The reason for that is too much slack or a bad track bearing will cause the vehicle to throw the track and a tank without a track is pretty much just a gun emplacement. Also, too much slack wears out the bearings and that takes you back to the same issue of a thrown track. It doesn't really matter if your track breaks or if it's thrown off the sprocket, you still have to put it back on. I know it wasn't much fun replacing a link or dropping a complete track on concrete in our motor pool where we had the rest of the platoon to help with it. I certainly wouldn't want to do it in 30 degrees and a foot of mud with only 4 men and I'm sure nobody else would either.

thanks for the info November. Ill keep it mind for future builds. As of now, the tracks on this build are all  formed

T26E4

From the horse's mouth, here's a transcript of an interview I conducted several years ago w/Wolfgang Kloth, a tank commander who served in Pz IIIs, IVs and StuG IIIs.  He discusses the AT rifles, thrown tracks and all sorts of other good stuff

www.amps-armor.org/.../bbsDetail.aspx

(I recommend everyone read it!)

From the horse's mouth, here's a transcript of an interview I conducted several years ago w/Wolfgang Kloth, a tank commander who served in Pz IIIs, IVs and StuG IIIs.  He discusses the AT rifles, thrown tracks and all sorts of other good stuff

www.amps-armor.org/.../bbsDetail.aspx

One thing I'd say Owl is to be careful not to overdo the sag in your tracks, which I think a lot of guys do. There's not a lot that's more important to a crew in the field than maintaining their track tension and other maintenance. The reason for that is too much slack or a bad track bearing will cause the vehicle to throw the track and a tank without a track is pretty much just a gun emplacement. Also, too much slack wears out the bearings and that takes you back to the same issue of a thrown track. It doesn't really matter if your track breaks or if it's thrown off the sprocket, you still have to put it back on. I know it wasn't much fun replacing a link or dropping a complete track on concrete in our motor pool where we had the rest of the platoon to help with it. I certainly wouldn't want to do it in 30 degrees and a foot of mud with only 4 men and I'm sure nobody else would either.

Also, think when they were introduced and where: 1943 Eastern Front

The myth of the schurzen's purpose has been around a long time but through the scholarly work of Tom Laemlin, he traced where that theory first arose.  It was a false attribution by a US General officer -- not corroborated by German documents or post war tests or Germans themselves.  Like Tigerman said, they were used to defeat AT rifle bullets.  Besides the Pz III and Pz IV shurzen, look at where they were mounted on other vehicles -- the area between the Panther's tracks and its side upper armor, the gap on the Hetzers, the gap on the Tiger IIs.  All of those areas were susceptible to AT Rifle penetration -- thus the designers' mounting skirting to protect them.

Huh...so AT rifles weren't totally useless; as I had thought...

Russians didn't use hollow-round or shaped charge at the time Schurzen were introduced. AT rifles were wide-spread and deadly at short ranges...particularly against the thinner armor of lower hulls and sides  on the different vehicles...hence the reason for turret schurzen on Pz III and IV but not on Panthers for example even though Panthers got hull schurzen. 5mm plates were sufficient to cause AT rifle rounds to 'tumble' after penetration and prevent entering the main hull or turret. Plates were frequently replaced and reference photos exist of vehicles sporting plates with different camo patterns...clearly a case of battlefield scavenging expediency.

Nice StuG Owl!! I really like all the extra work you are putting into it!

Bish, I'm not aware that they did. They may have received bazookas thru the lend-lease, but I can't recall any photos of them. I have seen them use captured panzer-schrecks.