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Dragon Nashorn 3 in 1 Kit 6386

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Dragon Nashorn 3 in 1 Kit 6386
Posted by IBuild148 on Thursday, November 7, 2013 11:53 PM

I opened this kit a couple of weeks ago and my first thought was WOW! This kit will test my "Armor Metal". I consider myself a level 3 1/2 out of 5 when it comes to building armor and this kit is a 5.

First are the Dragon instructions. I have had to do a lot of looks and relooks. Walk away and come back. Check referances. And use some unpleasant language.

I am going to build the "Initial Modified" version. This is key because the instructions can catch you off guard if your not paying close attention.

So far I have assembled the hull, cleaned and painted the road wheels. Tonight I started on the glacis.

 photo 031.jpg

Question here: Can someone identify Part M9 for me in the below photo?

The brass struts for the visor were a challenge. Not having any photos to look at I hope this is correct. 

 photo 035.jpg

NOTE: Parts A21 are not listed in the "distructions". You'll need these for hatches.

 photo 034.jpg

Any comments, help or input is welcome

Thats all for now.

 

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, November 8, 2013 12:09 AM

Your'e off to a nice start!

I totally agree: The Dragon Instructions can be really confusing.

Regarding those brass struts: Here's a pic of a Hummel I took this summer:

  

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, November 8, 2013 12:30 AM

Remember not to glue the spacers/templates to the walls of the lower portion of the fighting compartment. These are only used to set the location of a couple of small parts and are not a part of the model.

The instructions now say clearly "do not cement" but in earlier iterations of the kit, it was unclear and many have fallen into this trap.

Previous versions used the infamous "photo instructions" and the spacers were there one moment and gone the next.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, November 8, 2013 5:38 AM

Dragon instructions are a lot of fun ain't they Bang Head

I still can't decide if I should get a Dragon Nashorn or go for the AFV kit, so I will be watching this one.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:30 AM

RATS!!! I knew I should have asked someone before doing thos struts. Oh well. I got out the nail polish remover out and removed them and I will reatempt tonight.

Thanks SchattenSpartan for the help.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:32 AM

Part M9 is the travel lock releasing cord/line.  If the gun barrel is in the travel lock, the crew can release the lock by pulling this cord/line.  Then the lock falls back and the barrel is freed.  

The templates (N14 and N15) that Phil is referring to were sadly glued to many earlier modeller's kits.  Even ones that appeared in magazines.

At least the directions call out to definitely NOT cement those templates in for kit 6386.

I noticed a possible mistake: parts F32 are glued in backwards and too far inward.  They are armored shrouds for the brake system and should open to the rear and not to the front.   Aren't they in the spots where parts E21, E22 belong?

Roy Chow 

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:33 AM

Phil. What do these spacers/templates look like? This is one of those armor questions I am not up on.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:36 AM

Thanks a bunch Roy Yes for the calification on M9 and  the templates. I will make a note right now.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by T26E4 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:46 AM

I cross posted and made an edit with an additional comment about parts F32.  Be sure to check that

Roy Chow 

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  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Winamac,Indiana 46996-1525
Posted by ACESES5 on Friday, November 8, 2013 1:22 PM

gotcha covered I build I'm working on the dragon Stug 3 B I have found a bunch of wowhoes in the destructions for this one to so I just winged it kit came out real good , good      luck on the Nashorn I did one of the other Nashorn kits couple years ago came out real nice.         ACESES5                Welcome Sign        ON BENCH DRAGON STUG 3 B

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, November 8, 2013 1:46 PM

Any time you're dealing with a '3-in-1' or '2-in-1' you've got to pay extra special attention to parts and other things more than usual on Dragon instructions, that's for sure! Big Smile Think of it as a little 'extra' challenge in exchange for the options provided. The Nashorn's a good kit, looking forward to seeing what you do with it IB! Roy's right about the parts you've got backwards, should be fairly easy for you to correct that though.

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, November 8, 2013 2:20 PM

You're welcome! I have some more pics of that Hummel, so if you need anything, feel free to ask! The only significant difference should be the gun and the ammo racks...

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, November 8, 2013 5:16 PM

IBuild148

RATS!!! I knew I should have asked someone before doing thos struts. Oh well. I got out the nail polish remover out and removed them and I will reatempt tonight.

Thanks SchattenSpartan for the help.

lol, I did the SAME thing!!

Here's a blog WIP of my Hornisse--basically an early Nashorn-- that may give you some hints and prevent you from making mistakes like I may have committed. 

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/107610.aspx?PageIndex=10

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, November 8, 2013 5:26 PM

IBuild148
Phil. What do these spacers/templates look like? This is one of those armor questions I am not up on.

I think Roy's already got you covered, but the templates are parts H19/H20 and the note not to glue them in place is directly under the step 14 label in the instructions. They're flat, largely rectangular pieces with notches to help position a couple of smaller parts (H5/H6, H2)

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Friday, November 8, 2013 9:17 PM

Roy - I caught the F32 mistake this morning. Those were the last things I put on at which point my mind was spinning and it was bedtime. Again thanks for help the help on the spacers also!

doog - I'll check out your blog after I post this update. I see I have "The Big Boys" checking in on this build so I am in good company with help and support.

Bill - Never let it be said, "I don't like challenges". Your right about "extra special atttention". Thanks for checking in.

Phil - Again thanks.

ACESES5 - Thanks for checking in. I love stugs so I'll look for your pics.

Here is the assembled glacis.

 photo 010-1.jpg

 photo 009-1.jpg

 photo 008-1.jpg

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Sunday, November 10, 2013 12:29 PM

Another question?

Parts K6/5 and K7 are clear parts and attach to F21.

What are they called? In reality are they glass or plei-glass?

Does anyone have a close up pic so I can paint them?

 photo 032.jpg

Thank You.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, November 10, 2013 2:18 PM

Those parts are all metal. Just paint them off white(Ivory)

Tony lee

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, November 10, 2013 3:15 PM

Yep, they are metal on the real thing. Is this pic of any help?

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:09 PM

So what is the purpose of Dragon making them clear?

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:33 PM

They probably just didn't want to waste a whole sprue section for a few clear parts.....its more economical to put all the related parts on one sprue tree, even if all of them don't need to be clear.

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:43 PM

OK! Thanks Ernest for the explanation. I learn something all the time.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:45 PM

Nice.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Monday, November 11, 2013 5:02 PM

Have a ModelKasten question. I told myself to build out of box but I have caved!

Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.

Will the SK-18's work on this Dragon kit or the SK-20's.

Description: Panzer III/IV middle model. 40cm opened horned track suitable for almost the entire range of mid-war Panzer III/IV vehicle family including: Panzer III G through N/M; Panzer IV E through H; Sturmgeschutze B through G; Sturminfantrieschutz; Hummel and Nashorn SPG and Sturmgeschutz- to name but a few. The most widely used track type used by the German army during WWII. Suitable for kits made by Tamiya, Italeri, Dragon and Gunze Sangyo. Some manufacturer's drive sprockets will require minor trimming. Full instructions included. Note: use on the longer Nashorn will require the purchase of SK-20 to make up the longer track runs

Thanks

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
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Posted by the doog on Monday, November 11, 2013 5:21 PM

IBuild148

Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.


Hey man,serious question-- do you want to sell those Magic Tracks? I'll give you a fair price for them!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Monday, November 11, 2013 6:02 PM

There yours. Sent you a private message.

Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, November 11, 2013 6:24 PM

They Should The Nashorn is the Hornise and a Panzer IV offshoot.

IBuild148

There yours. Sent you a private message.

Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

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  • Member since
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  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Monday, November 11, 2013 6:45 PM

Thanks Mikeym.

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 11, 2013 7:45 PM

SK-18s will do the trick for you just fine IB, no worries there, they include enough track links (just barely!) to fit two runs for the Nashorn's longer hull as you will need about 104 per side depending on the sag you want. I used this same set when I did my Nashorn in 2010 Wink You can see that build log here if you're interested: http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=45

 

You will still need some of the kit-supplied Magic tracks for the hull front spare track run as you most likely won't have enough left over in the standard SK-18 set to do those as well.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Monday, November 11, 2013 8:28 PM

A million thank you's Bill!

I read yours and doogs WIP's over the weekend and have them in my Nashorn folder for referance.YesYes

IBuildOne48

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  • Member since
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Posted by T26E4 on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:58 AM

IBuild: Have you ever built  a set of the ModelKasten Pz III/IV indy tracks before?  You should know it's a huge undertaking.  Not trying to dissuade you but just to give you fair warning...  They look amazing once completed -- given that you've retained your sanity!

Roy Chow 

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