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I opened this kit a couple of weeks ago and my first thought was WOW! This kit will test my "Armor Metal". I consider myself a level 3 1/2 out of 5 when it comes to building armor and this kit is a 5.
First are the Dragon instructions. I have had to do a lot of looks and relooks. Walk away and come back. Check referances. And use some unpleasant language.
I am going to build the "Initial Modified" version. This is key because the instructions can catch you off guard if your not paying close attention.
So far I have assembled the hull, cleaned and painted the road wheels. Tonight I started on the glacis.
Question here: Can someone identify Part M9 for me in the below photo?
The brass struts for the visor were a challenge. Not having any photos to look at I hope this is correct.
NOTE: Parts A21 are not listed in the "distructions". You'll need these for hatches.
Any comments, help or input is welcome
Thats all for now.
IBuildOne48
Teach modeling to youth!
Scalefinishes.com
Your'e off to a nice start!
I totally agree: The Dragon Instructions can be really confusing.
Regarding those brass struts: Here's a pic of a Hummel I took this summer:
Remember not to glue the spacers/templates to the walls of the lower portion of the fighting compartment. These are only used to set the location of a couple of small parts and are not a part of the model.
The instructions now say clearly "do not cement" but in earlier iterations of the kit, it was unclear and many have fallen into this trap.
Previous versions used the infamous "photo instructions" and the spacers were there one moment and gone the next.
Dragon instructions are a lot of fun ain't they
I still can't decide if I should get a Dragon Nashorn or go for the AFV kit, so I will be watching this one.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
RATS!!! I knew I should have asked someone before doing thos struts. Oh well. I got out the nail polish remover out and removed them and I will reatempt tonight.
Thanks SchattenSpartan for the help.
Part M9 is the travel lock releasing cord/line. If the gun barrel is in the travel lock, the crew can release the lock by pulling this cord/line. Then the lock falls back and the barrel is freed.
The templates (N14 and N15) that Phil is referring to were sadly glued to many earlier modeller's kits. Even ones that appeared in magazines.
At least the directions call out to definitely NOT cement those templates in for kit 6386.
I noticed a possible mistake: parts F32 are glued in backwards and too far inward. They are armored shrouds for the brake system and should open to the rear and not to the front. Aren't they in the spots where parts E21, E22 belong?
Roy Chow
Join AMPS!
http://www.amps-armor.org
Phil. What do these spacers/templates look like? This is one of those armor questions I am not up on.
Thanks a bunch Roy for the calification on M9 and the templates. I will make a note right now.
I cross posted and made an edit with an additional comment about parts F32. Be sure to check that
gotcha covered I build I'm working on the dragon Stug 3 B I have found a bunch of wowhoes in the destructions for this one to so I just winged it kit came out real good , good luck on the Nashorn I did one of the other Nashorn kits couple years ago came out real nice. ACESES5 ON BENCH DRAGON STUG 3 B
Any time you're dealing with a '3-in-1' or '2-in-1' you've got to pay extra special attention to parts and other things more than usual on Dragon instructions, that's for sure! Think of it as a little 'extra' challenge in exchange for the options provided. The Nashorn's a good kit, looking forward to seeing what you do with it IB! Roy's right about the parts you've got backwards, should be fairly easy for you to correct that though.
BP Models
You're welcome! I have some more pics of that Hummel, so if you need anything, feel free to ask! The only significant difference should be the gun and the ammo racks...
IBuild148 RATS!!! I knew I should have asked someone before doing thos struts. Oh well. I got out the nail polish remover out and removed them and I will reatempt tonight. Thanks SchattenSpartan for the help.
Here's a blog WIP of my Hornisse--basically an early Nashorn-- that may give you some hints and prevent you from making mistakes like I may have committed.
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/107610.aspx?PageIndex=10
IBuild148Phil. What do these spacers/templates look like? This is one of those armor questions I am not up on.
I think Roy's already got you covered, but the templates are parts H19/H20 and the note not to glue them in place is directly under the step 14 label in the instructions. They're flat, largely rectangular pieces with notches to help position a couple of smaller parts (H5/H6, H2)
Roy - I caught the F32 mistake this morning. Those were the last things I put on at which point my mind was spinning and it was bedtime. Again thanks for help the help on the spacers also!
doog - I'll check out your blog after I post this update. I see I have "The Big Boys" checking in on this build so I am in good company with help and support.
Bill - Never let it be said, "I don't like challenges". Your right about "extra special atttention". Thanks for checking in.
Phil - Again thanks.
ACESES5 - Thanks for checking in. I love stugs so I'll look for your pics.
Here is the assembled glacis.
Another question?
Parts K6/5 and K7 are clear parts and attach to F21.
What are they called? In reality are they glass or plei-glass?
Does anyone have a close up pic so I can paint them?
Thank You.
Those parts are all metal. Just paint them off white(Ivory)
Tony lee
Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys
Yep, they are metal on the real thing. Is this pic of any help?
So what is the purpose of Dragon making them clear?
They probably just didn't want to waste a whole sprue section for a few clear parts.....its more economical to put all the related parts on one sprue tree, even if all of them don't need to be clear.
Ernest
Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female
Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8
OK! Thanks Ernest for the explanation. I learn something all the time.
Nice.
Eric
Have a ModelKasten question. I told myself to build out of box but I have caved!
Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.
Will the SK-18's work on this Dragon kit or the SK-20's.
Description: Panzer III/IV middle model. 40cm opened horned track suitable for almost the entire range of mid-war Panzer III/IV vehicle family including: Panzer III G through N/M; Panzer IV E through H; Sturmgeschutze B through G; Sturminfantrieschutz; Hummel and Nashorn SPG and Sturmgeschutz- to name but a few. The most widely used track type used by the German army during WWII. Suitable for kits made by Tamiya, Italeri, Dragon and Gunze Sangyo. Some manufacturer's drive sprockets will require minor trimming. Full instructions included. Note: use on the longer Nashorn will require the purchase of SK-20 to make up the longer track runs
Thanks
IBuild148 Not being a fan of Magic Tracks I have decided to go with an AM set of MK's.
There yours. Sent you a private message.
Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?
They Should The Nashorn is the Hornise and a Panzer IV offshoot.
IBuild148 There yours. Sent you a private message. Do you know if these MK 18's will work with my Nashorn?
On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6
The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15 http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/
Thanks Mikeym.
SK-18s will do the trick for you just fine IB, no worries there, they include enough track links (just barely!) to fit two runs for the Nashorn's longer hull as you will need about 104 per side depending on the sag you want. I used this same set when I did my Nashorn in 2010 You can see that build log here if you're interested: http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=45
You will still need some of the kit-supplied Magic tracks for the hull front spare track run as you most likely won't have enough left over in the standard SK-18 set to do those as well.
A million thank you's Bill!
I read yours and doogs WIP's over the weekend and have them in my Nashorn folder for referance.
IBuild: Have you ever built a set of the ModelKasten Pz III/IV indy tracks before? You should know it's a huge undertaking. Not trying to dissuade you but just to give you fair warning... They look amazing once completed -- given that you've retained your sanity!
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