Tamiya SDKFZ 25,1 completely abandoned..FINISHED!. pics.page5.

I would not have bent and warped the road wheels.  Anything dramatic enough to bend a wheel would have shorn it off and sent if flying.  I'd remove those if I were you.

This is sharp!!! Nice work man! Bravo

Hug, this model has "vision"! And it looks pretty convincing, for the most part. My opinion is that what is "accurate" or not in cases like this can be entirely subjective, as who can predict the effects of a blast? I think you've captured the right "look" and I would say keep going with it, as you're modeling "Art" for Art's sake!

 Hey, I'm a gonna half to get a little bit closer to this build.... it's really starting to look good.

 Now, don't forget the streaking. This is the perfect candidate.

 The only thing that doesn't look quite right to me is the hood...  eh - well it looks kind'a melted at the edges.

That shouldn't be too difficult to replicate with some pie-pan aluminum and damaged paint effects to bring it up to par with the other goodies.

 And yes, I really like it. 

bufflehead

  Kinda reminds me of the car I drive!!

Hahahah, thanks, I still have laot of work ahead of me...again, your comments are mostly appreciated! 

Oh I get it now garzonh!  BTW, those pics are great!  It really shows the damage that vehicle took!  Kinda reminds me of the car I drive!!

bufflehead

The only thingsa I find implausible is the half tire left on the wheel.  If the halftrack burned I would think that all the rubber would also burn off leaving just a pile of white ash.    If the fire was that hot wouldn't the fenders and hull above also be affected like the area a few feet forwards?

Again, I'm no expert...just relating what I think makes sense to me.  I do like what you're doing with this...keep it up!

Hi, thanks for your critic eye.

I did looked for how a melted tire would look like over the internet, and found a picture similar to mine which I based mine. Where only the half of it melted and the other half stayed intact. As you correctly stated, once I had my diorama set up, I will add the other metled half and ashes over the road just below it.

On the track.and wheels, the bending and is not for the effect of the heat by the shell impact which Im trying to say, that the shell hit the SDKFZ just below the fender.

The track I will take out and leave aside, look at the "staged" area I will work on...

Garzonh, that's looking very interesting.  I'm not an expert on weapon damaged/burnt vehicles, but I'd say you've captured the right look.  The only thingsa I find implausible is the half tire left on the wheel.  If the halftrack burned I would think that all the rubber would also burn off leaving just a pile of white ash.  If not, then wouldn't the rubber just fall off since the tire is basically hollow?  Also, the partially melted roadwheels don't seem right.....it would take a lot of heat to affect those steel roadwheels.  If the fire was that hot wouldn't the fenders and hull above also be affected like the area a few feet forwards?

Again, I'm no expert...just relating what I think makes sense to me.  I do like what you're doing with this...keep it up!

OK, so I have almost completed it.

I only have weathered one side, the most damaged one....added the decals, and finished the burned cooked off effect, melted tired and damged tracks.

This SDKFZ will be used in a diorama.

My intention is that is well damaged, abandoned vehicle left to its luck.

What do you think?

the doog

Hugo, I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve here? It looks like you did a "Salt Technique" that resulted in those random chips? Why is thew floor yellow when the rest of the vehicle is gray? That doesn't really make sense.

Hi Pal!

Thank you for your advice, my intention is to have a burnt out, cooked vehicle, abandoned due to the damage. The interior is yellowish, since the interior will be dusty, dirty, and starting to rust.

Im so far now into the built that I decided not to repaint the floor with gray, it was a good experimentation for filter with oils.The benches turned out to be better, it has some colors of faded brown due to usage and sun, black for dirt and some reds and blues for stains and molds.

I greatly appreciate your criticism and advice and will follow your suggestions, for upcoming models. 

Here are Im so far... 

The "muffler" looks too rusty, I will start experimenting with it for the burnt out.

Next steps are, apply the tracks, wheels and apply a flat clear varnish to do the hood burnt out. Apply some rusting streaks and water rain stains.

Please not that I did not used any PE, however I was able to cut out one of the motor covers and bend it as well as simulate damage on the idler and fender.

Question, does the varnish affects the rust pigments fo the tracks? will it disolved  them or fix them?

Thanks to all for your advice, help and critic eye. 

Hugo, I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve here? It looks like you did a "Salt Technique" that resulted in those random chips? Why is thew floor yellow when the rest of the vehicle is gray? That doesn't really make sense.

First, let me advise you: BE BOLD. Don't be afraid to take chances--you have to dare to push your boundaries.

If you want to start getting a good interior, spray the interior a dark gray. Next, mix about 20% white into your dark gray and spray the top and middle of your panels in the interior with this lighter color. Imagine that your air brush stream of paint is the actual sunlight, creeping into your interior. Highlight the inside of your panels, and leave the original darker shade close to the seams and where shadows would fall. Next, give all of it a thin wash of gray oil paint--just combine white and black until you get what you want. This will tone down the contrast.

Do the same thing on the outside--use the principles of light and darkness to imagine where to paint dark gray vs light gray. Filters of blue or brown can then be added to subtly tint the overall hue of the base coat. You can also add a brown filter/wash in the lower hull interior to simulate dirt tracked in by crew's shoes.

Read my blog here to understand the concept of "Light and Dark" Painting technique. I did it pretty radically here in this thread--but you don't have to be stark with it. But read and learn how to control a paint finish:   click here--Ersatz Panther Build Log

I gotta admit , this is a cool WIP! Nice photo shot angles as well!

I am liking where you are going with this.

Happy last day of 2013..wow, what a year and how fast it went. 

Time for some update...

Tons of work done today.

1. Added a second lighter layer of gray color, I tried to keep some darker color on the seems and lower areas, but did not came out as I expected... For some reason the color even looks clearer on the pics.
2. Now that I have my oil colors, I started to experiment with them and trying to make my firts filters in the inside, also, did not had the results I wanted   I mainly experimented on the benches and one side of the interior. Not sure it can be seen on the pics, since it's a simple camera I have not manual control on focus. 

I will call it for today, it was dissapointing... 

See you around!!

Hmmmm...waiting with nervous anticipation ....

Next, update...

Primed all the model in black to "kill" all the brightness and have a good foundation for the grey, red and layers of weathering, rusting and burnt out.

this is all for today.

See ya.

Good morning all and happy weekend...

OKay, so some update.

I experimented with the vehicle and so far it's turning out as I wanted. It will be a SDFKZ knocked out and engine hood and around burnt out.

My goal is to display it, as it received a shot on the right side, the engine fire would had burnt out the paint and melted the tire, other parts were bended or fell of due to the shell impact, it also has the entrance hole.  The impact came from a small caliber gun, otherwise it would have been completely destroyed.

Also added some scratches and other impact marks, the other tire I flattened it a little bit, I hate to see perfectly rounded, fully inflated tires in armor, planes, cars, come onnn...not even my car has perfect tires nevertheless in batlle.

On to the painting.....

Hi, yes, is the one with the soldier jumping into action, however I will not use the kit soldiers...Im doing a LOT of experimentation with the model...and I mean a LOT, it will be used in a diorama down the road.

Hopefully I can get some pictures tomorrow on the first layer of colors...Im sure it will be a surprise and something different. Since it was a cheap model, $15 USD, Im not too concern if everything goes to hell...I would user another kit for the diorama.

Thanks to all for your interest and advice!

Good night

I just bought this kit  and already built it. It's a fun kit to build, and I love the positions the soldiers are in.

Your new project is looking real good,is this the one with the soldier jumping over the side into action

Vehicles from 1943-end of war used dunkelgelb as base color so dunkelgelb interior is correct for your vehicle, prior to this date, it should be panzer gray. It looks nice. Keep us posted. Best regards.

José.

Nice one Garzonh!  Looking forward to seeing progress pics of this venerable kit!  I don't have this kit so it will be interesting to see how easily/quickly this goes together and how you deal with some of the kit's problems (as stated by others).

Good luck! That's a great vehicle to start out with.

waynec

HL 40% off coupon is why i have 4 of them.

Those coupons are great but HL's plastic kit stock seems to be getting smaller. They used to carry the Type VII and Gato subs in 1/72 along with some great Tamiya kits but as of late, their stock is bare bones, mostly 1/25 cars at least at the one I go to.

HL 40% off coupon is why i have 4 of them. as for the interior color if it went to africa gray and was quickly painted yellow it's possible the interior was left gray due to time and availibility of paint. i know that was the case with some of the armored cars.

For some reason (operator error?) Pics not shown on last post 

I'm doing this one now as well and am told the interior was the same color (MM Dunkelgelb 1943) as the exterior however…..I chose to paint the forward interior, i.e., driver's area with MM Panzer Buff just to liven stuff up. Not the best pic but once I add some dirt and grime I think it'll help blend it in so it's not too stark a contrast. Best of luck with your build!

An observation that DAK colors differed as the Germans also used whatever they had at hand such as captured British paints. They also used Italian paints to supplement their limited paint stock. After some weathering and fading, shades were different from factory applied ones.

Remember, I'f you're building a DAK 251, interior still is panzer gray, but exterior is RAL 8000 2/3 of the vehicle, the other 1/3 was RAL 7008 for March 1941 - April 1942 vehicles... Oh wait, there was another scheme: RAL 8020 2/3, RAL 7027 1/3... But that's for April 1942 – February 1943 vehicles. Of course that "2/3 of one color, 1/3 of the other" thing wasn't always applied, so check your references... Again, if you want to build a DAK 251. Best regards.

José.

I've actually had my eye on this kit for a while and can easily buy it at any time with a HL 40% off coupon but have held off. I'll be watching this build here!