Revell 1/90 Nina Completed

I'll take some pictures of the contraption and some before and after shots of some blocks.  Also, the blocks I am using on this build are straight out of the bag, I haven't altered them in any way.  Also, the line I am using is old Revell line, not the "stuff" they put in their kits nowadays.

Steve

Looking good!  Whatever that contraption is that you're using for your ME blocks...good on you...they look a heckuva lot better than they look when new!  And I dig that line!  Is that some of the Syren line?

Dave

A quick update on the block and tackle for the Nina and Pinta.  Here is a size comparison on the various blocks that I am using for the ships.  They range from 6 to 3 mm.  The second photo shows the 3mm block rigged.

Steve

Dave,

I know what you mean about the ME blocks; however, I wanted that exact look for the Nina and Pinta.  Otherwise, I picked up something from ME that is called a Block Buster which sands the edges off the blocks.  The longer you use it the more rounded they become.  I have a boatload of ME blocks I want to use before I use my Syren blocks.  I even plan on doing chainplates on the Pinta and possibly the Santa Maria (Revell), although the chainplates are for round deadeyes and not triangle deadeyes.  The smallest triangle deadeyes I can find are 3mm and are the ones I used on the Hanse Kogge and Thomas for deadeyes.

It sounds like the GH build will be awesome.

Steve

You are correct, sir....I loved the rigging on that kit!  Lots of cool styling...though, they were the plastic kit blocks...I actually have a bunch of wooden blocks from ME, and I was thinking of using them on the upcoming GH build, but after close inspection, they look kinda wonky...misshapen and not very well-contoured....I'll probably use the kit stuff, after all.  BUT, there will be some sweet aftermarket parts going into it, namely deadeyes and chainplates...I'm about to order some blacken-it from ME for the chain, and also some brass belaying pins and pedestals for a wooden base...Stoked!

Keep the updates coming, my man!

Thanks Dave, they are that.  By the way, didn't you have blocks rigged like this on the Chebec?

Steve

Looks good, Steve!  The little touches make a big difference!

After reflecting what Prof Tilley said and checking Pastor's "Ships of Columbus" I took the line off the blocks I just did and drilled two holes through the side for rigging the "deadeyes".  The first are the blocks and the second photo are the deadeyes partially rigged.  In the second photo, the left block will tie off at the side rail, the right connects to the shroud.

Steve

Here is the rest of the coils.

Steve

Well, at least I got two photos to post.  Hopefully here are the next two.

Alright, I am going to try post more than one picture while on the iPad.  On the quarterdeck of the Nina are the obligatory coiled line.  Even though the Nina and Pinta were made for the 1992/500 year anniversary, Revell must have thought that since the Santa Maria had them then these should too.  I considered slicing them off but then I would have to find some way to camouflage the odd shaped flat area.  I figured that I would cover them with real coiled line and here is the process I used if anyone is interested.

Steve

Thanks Mark, it good to hear from you.  I hope everything is alright, and hopefully you'll be posting your Schnellboot build.

Steve

You are a true Artist my Friend. Beautiful work as usual......Cheers Mark

Bill,

Thanks for the kudos and thanks for following the build.  I know what you mean about building cannon, just wait until you decide to tackle the 1/96 USS Constitution, or the Heller 1/100 Soliel Royal and/or the HMS Victory.  The last two have 100 plus cannon!  You might want to paint or build other parts when your eyes go crossed building cannon, or build two or three cannon each modeling session.

Don't worry about good or bad graces, I did not take offense and I apologize if I sounded a bit rough, that is just me.  Anyway, keep up the great work and as I said, post pictures!

Also, a word of advice, never put your email in a post because this forum is open to the public.  Edit your email out of he post by clicking on the little pencil in the lower right delete that light and then click on the post button.

You can send and receive personal emails by clicking on the handle of the person and go to town!

Steve

Steve...looking good! I inadvertently clicked on "do not receive .;.yada, yada, yada!! You know what I mean, now how do I get you back in good graces again, didn't mean to do it.

Bill

My email: b_nartker@hotmail.com if I can't get your comment here!!! :-(

I'll start sending some when I get these dang blasted canons built! Sheesh!! They are a pain, but can do only about 3-4 per day and have to take a day off! Lol Just so little to hold and slap together! Other than that, things are going just hunky dorey!

I had recently done a bit of a "How To" regarding the addition of rope coils on pin rails.  You can see it if you want on the Zvezda 1/72 English Medieval Ship Thomas thread. Not being one to waste good line, I took the line I used and put it on the fife rail.  It actually came out okay.

Steve

Bill,

How it works does not matter as much as does it work!  The picture looks great and now I think you are ready to start your own WIP!  Trust me, we all want to see pictures of builds because you never know when you can pick up a solution to a problem you are having. It is also cool to see what others are building so that when I  see a kit that I REALLY need to add to my stash.........

Dave,

It's cool that you can put your build on your Cap1 card, it is the least they can do.  Speaking of collecting royalties, just this week, I found a couple of my builds on other sites without so much as a by your leave....... Or model built by .........

Steve

I'm using my cell phone, forgot that it isn't big.....maybe change the size???

Hey, do I get a royalty for Bill using my pic?  haha

It's very cool to see that my work has been able to help inspire others...that's the way it goes...the circle of life!

That pic of my Swan is the same one I have on my Credit Card...Capital One lets customers use custom pictures for their cards...now when I use my Cap1 card, I get to show off the Swan!

Looking forward to seeing your next update, Steve!  Sorry to have been a part of the "thread hijack" !!!

I see a photo of a ship and it looks like you have Dave's Black Swan on the computer screen.  Good job Bill!  By the way, what are you using to take pictures with?  They look a bit small.

Steve

P.S. I checked out the other photos you had posted on Photobucket, your Black Swan is looking mighty fine.

Oh, ok! Gotcha! I'll try that and see what happens. Thanks, Steve, you're a great help.

Bill

Bill,

What you want to do is open Photobucket and go to your folder and open it.  Choose the photo you want to post and open it.  Off to the right you'll see a number of options under  Links To Share This Photo.  Choose the direct option and copy it.  Now go back to your FSM reply and choose Use Rich Formatting and follow the previous direction to insert the photo.  Hope this clears this up.

Steve

Steve

    I don't see the "direct Address" you're talking about. I have the photos uploaded to photobucket in a folder. I saved them to my 'Bill's model folder'. Is there  URL for that? This is all new to me, sorry.

Bill

Bill,

You are welcome, hopefully it will work for you.  At least FSM gives us a thread to practice on.  It took me about three or four tries before I got the hang of it.

Steve

Prof Tilley,

I went through Anatomy of the Ship, Columbus, and I see what you mean, thanks for  pointing it out.  I was trying to work out the rigging of the "deadeyes" for the Nina from one of Pastor's pictures.  All the other blocks were going to be stropped using the method you described.

Steve

Thanks Steve, gonna give it a shot and hopefully won't take long. Will do it tomorrow sometime. Gotta few things to do in the morning, but afternoon should be free. Thanks again for the help.

Bill

Looks fine to me.  Bear in mind, thigh, that not all blocks are strolled.  In many cases the rigging line itself is simply spliced or seized around the block.

I may be speaking out of turn in assuming that it was done that way in the Middle Ages, but I strongly suspect it was.  For modeling purposes that method is considerably easier, and quicker, than making separate strops.