The brass eyebolts look better in my opinion. It's probably true that a plastic bolt glued to a plastic deck is a better bond. I've had them break off at the deck fairly often, esp. on the larger scale models.
At this point I would also like to recommend a couple of additional strengthening operations. There's not much in ship modeling that's worse than having a belaying pin rail, or a channel with all of the shrouds rigged, snap off. It can be put back but it's never quite the same.
When you glue the pin rails along the inside of the bulwarks, after installation drill holes from the outside through the side and into the rail. Take short sections of steel wire such as a short piece of paper clip, and insert in with CA. Cut them off flush on the outside and patch the ends. Two per rail
Channels are the shelves on which the lower deadeyes are attached. On a ship, the extreme upward force that the shrouds generate from the force of the wind bending the masts forward is transferred through the chain plates down to the hull. The term channel probably derives from the longer term chain gunwale. The force on them on a ship is primarily compression against the side of the ship. But on a plastic model, the glue joints take over. It's possible, and the practice on a wood model, to anchor the chain plates at their bottoms to the hull with a stout pin, then run a wire from the top of the chain plate through the channel and wrap it around the lower deadeye. Then whatever strain is put on the shroud, and it's just the tightening during rigging, is properly distributed.
On a plastic model the chain plates usually don't do much more than get glued on and look the part. The channel itself gets glued to the side of the ship, and the stress from the shrouds pulling upward creates a shear force on the channel- hull connection.
Pins really help here. The installation is one-sided so it's slightly different than the pin rails, but equally important.
The assemblies above that are reffered to as shrouds (vertical) and ratlines (horizontal). There is indeed a great difference in the diameter of the ropes involved. Whatever force is driving a big heavy ship with a wide beam and deep draft through the water is being put into the hull through the shrouds. While there are a lot of them, it's a lot of force. They might be 8" lines, 3" or so in diameter. And smaller as the amount of sail on each mast decreases.
The ratlines on the other hand are only there to get sailors up the mast to handle sails. If you study the drawings or the sailing ships you can still find, the ratlines are only there to the extent that they are needed for climbing, and often do not span across all of the shrouds, or appear at all on masts where the yards are lowered to the tops for handling sails.
How to add them to the shrouds is a whole discussion. I like to use thread, and actually tie them to each shroud. But there are other options for materials, and other ways to attach them to each shroud.
One last thing. The path to install a shroud is as follows. One end is anchored to the channel via the deadeye and lanyard assembly it is seized to. The shroud runs up to the masthead. It passes through a hole in the top, goes around the mast on top of the crosstrees in a fore to aft direction but not around the base of the top mast, and returns back down to the hull on the same side of the ship. It gets gammoned or lashed to itself just under the trees.
Then you switch sides and install another pair of shrouds on that side. Continue back and forth, fore to aft. If at the end there's an odd numbered shroud, then and only then does it go up one side and down the other.
What you get at the top, over the trees, is a pretty big stack of rope, sometimes about as tall as the mast.
I hope that makes sense.
Bill