1/96 RVL Constitution Build, reference and source guide.

No, still no go.

Try deleting the files from GP, and then uploading again, then go through the process mentioned.

Hoping to see some images of what you've done. No luck yet - just the blank area with circles in the middle.

I am having to spend more time doing this thread and trying to get pics up than I am getting to build. As the song says "The thrill is gone"  this is getting to be more of a PITA than I have time to invest !

There's some issue with Google Pics and certain browsers. I can't get it to work either. I use Fotki and I really like it. Costs about $ 20 a year or less, I don't remember. Fast, NO ADS, and drag and drop from camera to hosting site.

LIVIT

I am having to spend more time doing this thread and trying to get pics up than I am getting to build. As the song says "The thrill is gone"  this is getting to be more of a PITA than I have time to invest !

 

I agree. I have all my pics on a hard drive, but re entering all that stuff from each thread takes a lot of time. In the end, is any other hosting site gonna do the same thing as PB? Then we're back to where we started. It's so frustrating that I'm not sure it's worth the time and effort to post pics anymore. Maybe just for a one-of post or something. I just don't want to spend a bunch of time taking the pics, posting to a hosting site, Re-posting from there to the forum thread in a linear fashton with text, all so all you see is a bunch of "this picture has been deleted or moved" info in a box. Without the pics it loses the whole effect. "A picture is worth a thousand words", but a picture that's been blocked or deleted is worth nothing.

Might just have to go back to being a troll.

EJ

Yup it got me a bit flustered !  Bill I am going to give your suggested image hosting site a try. I dont mind spending a little amount if it works right ! FSM should start doing image hosting, All my RC sites do it. Heck I wouldnt even mind a couple of dollar fee charged to be able to use there image hosting. EJ, its a shame how many quality build threads that now no longer have any images or very few because of greed !  

let me know if yall can see these 2 pics please

Woohoo!!

Coca Cola

Finally !   Bill, I used fotki as you suggested and your right, "it's so easy even this caveman can do it" and you get a 30 day free trial, plus decent how-to help. Love the drag and drop feature... tks my lfriend. Now I can get back to posting some more pics and building.     Dale

this is a larger image you can zoom in on

very nice livit ,

Tks Steve, if yall go back a page I re-posted the images that did not show the first couple of tries. 

I got my eye bolts blackened. I first clean the brass eye bolts in denatured alcohol, rinse with cool water, dry throughly. Try not to touch the brass bits, this keeps your skin oil off them. I then soak in a small amount of Birchwood Casey Brass Black for a few minutes , drain excess and dry on papertowell, again try not to touch pieces as this will remove the blackening, plus it is toxic. Once dry, I apply a coat of MM Acrylic clear coat. This will keep the blackening from rubbing off as easily.  

I finally have a whole day and evening to devote too my build. I installed a couple of the gun port hatches/lids and do like the appearance. I do know that the general consensus is that the earlier Constitution fittings did not have hinges and that the 2 piece lids were a latter fitting. I have read that the lids were removed during battle mode. I have found that the lids are extremely delicate and the slightest bump and they come off. For this reason and the fact that they were not probable there to begin with, I have decided not to install all of them.  The info I have not found is what was done with these hatches/lids after removal for battle. Were they taken down to the gun deck or lashed to the spar deck ?    Dale

Hi Dale, your new ,is it fotki, pictures are great. I never liked looking at Photocopy. It was always too small & fotki blows up beautiful.I would love to see your Constitution. I picked up a monogram 1/120 Imai Conny & will build it pretty much Out of the box. Maybe including the shrouds. 

   Dale, I use 560 for everything I can, as it does hold & I don't believe I have ever had anything break off,I glue the hull together with AC & my 1x2 with AC or epoxy. I use 560 to glue the deck in & all the deck furniture & cannons & everything I can. I haven't tried it on thread.

Dale, on spending too much time on the site, I really spend most of mine on building my ship. I do spend time here at breakfast & after I quit building for the day. Even at my age I can't wait to get back down on my model. 

Tks Gene, as you suggested I went back and reglued all my cannons down with the canopy glue.  It also works well on knots, just keep in mind it takes a good bit longer to dry on the knots. I still prefer the Tamiya xtra thin glue for knots, it also dries clear. As you can see from the new pics the canopy glue dries clear with no signs of it being used. Just a bit more touch up painting and I will be ready to cover up the gun deck.  I am still waiting on any suggestions of what to do with the gun port lids. After looking at the pics, I realized there was a bit more touch up painting to do :) 

Sorry for duplicate pics, not sure what is happening now. Pics I tried to post not same as what showed in duplicate posts.  arggh ! 

Anyways hope all can see where I am at so far. As stated previously, just a fairly standard build, not trying to get crazy. I am learning a good bit of skills for future more intricate builds. I should have the Spar deck in and done or almost done by Sunday, since I am off fri, sat & sun this week 

edit: the glue residue that is visible by the cannons is not the canopy glue that is residue from trying to use CA......

Dale, those guns look good. I hope that they will be secure. I hope someone shares some of their wisdom regarding the gunports; I am also waiting to hear. Research for my Connie build is still in process. Another thing I have to do is clear my work area to make room for it.

Shipwreck tks bud, you had asked previously about using the Syren rigging line.  I am very pleased with it and actually in process of ordering more. One thing I did learn, since it is real miniature rope, meaning multiple twisted strands. When it is cut, it will start to seperate. What I do now is, soon as I cut it, I dip end lightly into my Tamiya thin cement and lightly twist, this sure does make it easier to thread. 

So, Dale, you bought some rope; but you are buying some more? What sizes did you get in the first place and how do you know when you have enough? It seems that this could get expensive!

shipwreck , one thing about syren line , it is pre waxed , no hairy bit's . what I did with the amount of line ,. was to buy some when I could afford to , and build up a stash of it , with different size's . knowing I would be building quite a few ship's . 

his line is very nice . and does make a difference to your model .

steve5

steve5

shipwreck , one thing about syren line , it is pre waxed , no hairy bit's . what I did with the amount of line ,. was to buy some when I could afford to , and build up a stash of it , with different size's . knowing I would be building quite a few ship's . 

his line is very nice . and does make a difference to your model .

steve5

Ditto, it is a very good quality product.   It comes in 20' packages, price varies $4.50 to $6.50 a pack.  I did not use it to tie down cannons on gun deck, but wish now that I had done so.  Here are the sizes I bought so far Rigging Line: Syren Ship Model Company  A-.012 B .018 C-.035 these are very close matches to the tan RVL line. RVL uses a letter corresponding to a color on end of line spool. 

Syren provides a line size gauge you can download, which is a nice thing to have.  Shipwreck I cannot yet give a fair answer as to how much of each size is going to be needed.  I am keeping a log of how much I have used so far and will post that info on first page and future post of the build.  Far as the expense goes, I think its more than worth it, easier to work with, appearance is way better than anything else I have seen yet. I dont think it will change color like I have heard others complain about the RVL line.    Dale

 

I figured out the approximate amount of Tan line needed for all of the build in the first instruction manual, there is 2 manuals.  This is if you do it all as RVL suggests, this does included gunport lids.  A 2' so far, still need to do the Stanchions which will take alot of the A,  B 16' C 32'.  That is only roughly $25 worth.  

What I would do differentally if I was to build this model again.  Use Syren line for everything. Replace what RVL refers to as pins on inside of hull for gun deck cannons rigging with eyebolts. These pins on mine were a mess and more like a mold drip than a pin.  Use the 560 canopy glue for cannons on wood scaledeck. Prepared hull for better base than what RVL provides.  Did not realize until after I had glued hull halves together, that there is two locations for a nut to be glued in for After market pedestal use.

I had to edit previous post, did not figure out how much A line would be needed to do the Stanchions. There is a good amount of them to do.  

It's pretty well established that in 1812, there were no hinged gun port lids. Maybe removable covers, and sometime later the split lids.

Tks Bill, I was actually researching that info. So the hinge cutouts and rigging line holes would have to be filled if one was really wanting to represent the 1812 version.

I have looked at a lot of pics and installed a couple of the gunports on mine. Even though it is not "Historically" accurate I really do like the added appearance.  If I dont put on the lids, it is going to take a good bit of putty work and re-painting to cover up all that. I am going to try rigging a few more and use the formual 560 glue as my friend Gene suggested and see if they still are as delicate as the couple I installed using Tamiya glue.