hobby boss USS arizona 1/350 BB-39 [1941]

love it goldhammer

thank's nino , that will come in handy mate . well so much for out of the box .!

found the wood deck at a great price so I thought why not . then I thought a bit of PE can't hurt . I thought I was only getting I sheet , so surprised to see this lot and I'm getting worried , so then I had get the metal barrels and pedestals , this couple of weeks build has suddenly turned into about a 6 month build sssheesh .

as a side note my LHS , said MM musn't be making sea blue anymore . no corresponding number here in aust . so I got some dark sea blue instead and will lighten it with some flat white , see what happens .

Steve those accessories are going to add so much to the finished look, time to roll up the sleeves there mate!, cheers.

Michael D.

Steve, I have this kit as well. I will be watching your build with a personal interest. I, like, you, have already purchased the wood deck and numerous PE as well as barrels. Your efforts will be a great opportunity for me to learn through proxy what it is all about.

Popping the popcorn and sitting on this one...

Ben

steve5

"...then I thought a bit of PE can't hurt . I thought I was only getting I sheet , so surprised to see this lot and I'm getting worried , so then I had get the metal barrels and pedestals , this couple of weeks build has suddenly turned into about a 6 month build sssheesh .

as a side note my LHS , said MM musn't be making sea blue anymore . no corresponding number here in aust . so I got some dark sea blue instead and will lighten it with some flat white , see what happens .

     No not 6 months,  a bit more.  235 days till & December 7.   There's a date you can shoot for.

 I think that's more PE than I have bought in the entire last year. Fortunately it's 1/350 so you have a better chance of finding it in the carpet.

That 5-N and 5-S were pretty dark.  I think most folks who used 5-N out of the bottle found it to be too dark for the scale.  I know TankerBuilder and I both knocked models to the floor when that Camo color (& 20-B on the deck), hid our respective models during a simple reach across the desk.  Yep, Camouflaged.  Go with Lighter as you mentioned.

How is the Stern hull at the area near the Props?  Is it a bit concave?  I do not have the kit but  I understand it is somewhat of a copy of Revells Original Arizona and it did have that 1 major hull error.

      Jim

Steve-  you seem to suffer the same afflliction as the rest of us....can't leave well enough alone.

All the goodies will add to her, good on ya!

As an aside take a look back out on the gallery page...a beautiful rendition of the Trumpy 1/200 in a store in Arizona.

Nino- Remembered seeing that division chart before.  Thanks for pulling it out of the files.

goldhammer

Steve- you seem to suffer the same afflliction as the rest of us....can't leave well enough alone.Embarrassed

That sure does hit home. Speaking of me, I mean.

Steve, I'll be keeping an eye on this too, been  decades since building a ship, let alone a warship.

Steve,

I’m pulling up a chair on this one. Just my two cents, but I’ve been using ColourCoat paints more and more lately. Granted, it’s more cleanup but there’s something really satisfying about using enamels again, at least for me.

The other thing I really like is that I’m not trying to match colors with the different brands. After 35 years of creating and matching colors, I must be getting lazy in my old age.

As I said, just my two cents bud.

Steve

Steve I am anxious to watch your Arizona. You are a great builder, one of the best. Watch using any MM where you have to mask. Nearly every time I have used it , it has peeled off with the masking tape. They have great colors, but I have about stopped using it as it not only peels, but dries in the bottle fast & clogs my airbrush. I love Tamiya & have no problem with it. 

    I thin my Tamiya with denatured alcohol & it works way better than Tamiyas thinner. I have been doing that for years. With the black boot stripe , you have to mask. I often don;t prime Tamiya.

  I am too old to change paints because there is a learning process.

       Off the subject, I am reading Shinano, bythe Archerfish's Captain, Joe Enright. It is about the US sub that sank the Jap 70,000 ton carrier Shinano. Anyone with any interest in WW2 & subs would really enjoy it. I got it for $10 shipped on ebay. The Japs had turned the Yamato's sister ship into a carrier. 

Steve I am anxious to watch your Arizona. You are a great builder, one of the best. Watch using any MM where you have to mask. Nearly every time I have used it , it has peeled off with the masking tape. They have great colors, but I have about stopped using it as it not only peels, but dries in the bottle fast & clogs my airbrush. I love Tamiya & have no problem with it. 

    I thin my Tamiya with denatured alcohol & it works way better than Tamiyas thinner. I have been doing that for years. With the black boot stripe , you have to mask. I often don;t prime Tamiya.

  I am too old to change paints because there is a learning process.

       Off the subject, I am reading Shinano, bythe Archerfish's Captain, Joe Enright. It is about the US sub that sank the Jap 70,000 ton carrier Shinano. Anyone with any interest in WW2 & subs would really enjoy it. I got it for $10 shipped on ebay. The Japs had turned the Yamato's sister ship into a carrier. 

thankyou gentlemen , boy talk about pressure  , I have to put this build on hold for a little while , I have to fly down to adelaide , for family reasons . still a bit worried about the PE . really haven't done too much of it  , but one must try .

docidle- steve , unfortunately my wife has only one good lung , and we live in a cottage style house , so no enamels sorry mate . but I will be going with a colour i like , being old an all 

gene - thanks for the tip on MM paint's , will have to think of something mate . never heard of denatured alcahol . that book sounds like a good read .

steve5

gene - thanks for the tip on MM paint's , will have to think of something mate . never heard of denatured alcahol . that book sounds like a good read .

Denatured alcohol (in the States) is ethyl alcohol, high proof, with a poisonous substance added so that the alcohol cannot/should not be drunk.  It is a hardware store item.   I have used Expo Dry Erase board cleaner for the same purpose of thinning Tamiya paints. 

You could probably substitute Gin or Vodka but Whisky would be a waste

For an out of the bottle acrylic 5S Sea Blue paint AK Interactive has that color in one of their US Navy Camouflage paint sets.  See the recent discussion thread on naval paints

I have used isopropyl alcohol with good results. It's sold as "rubbing" alchohol. The trick is to minimize the impurities in it, so I use the 90% solution.

Don't know if you can get ethol alcahol here over the counter , but l do have 100/  isopropyl will have to try it , thanks gmorrison

Hi Steve, I have never used rubbing alcohol, but if GM says it is OK, I am sure it is. It is that years ago someone wrote about using Denatured Alcohol & I am slow to change, because it works. I bought a couple bottles of Tamiya thinner & did not like it. It seemed to dry in the bottle way faster.

  You have everything for the Arizona to make it look good. I built it years ago & ended up selling it. I would like to build another. Most all my friends were WW2 veterans when I was young.  I got all kinds of direct information about model building from them.

tried out the wood deck , fits well , saw two little dent's on the bow had to be filled , and a seam had to be removed , had a play with the P.E. , gee this stuff is small 

That looks real good! Especially that wood deck. The PE sure helps a lot too.

steve5

 

 

I didn't know any PE sets included upgrades for the vertical surfaces! For me, those horizontal seams along each deck part are probably the worst part of this kit.  I didn't address them, in my Pennsylvania build; I just applied Mr Surfacer but otherwise lived with them.  Part of that was my thought that if I wanted to address them, I'd have to cut styrene sheet or strip to cover those surfaces, and then go back and drill out the portholes.  I have a similar issue with the window framing on the foremast decks, too-such soft detail, with frames that should be square.

Those PE pieces really improve the look of the kit!  That is just so much better than the stock kit parts.

I agree with stik....nice start on her.  I promise, you will find a lot of new language skills with all the PE you have.

I have to agree with everyone. The PE, barrels, and deck sets will really bring this kit to another level. The verticles along with the stairs versus the plastic lumps are going to go a long way by themselves. The wood deck to cover the seams will be a big plus too. I think you will find that the PE will help the superstructure a lot as well. The catapult will be light years better than the kit part, etc., etc.

How hard was it for you to remove the molded in deck details?

What did you find out concerning the lower hull by the props, is it miss-shapened?

Ben

was looking at a few builds on you-tube , and they mentioned the little dip in the bow , wish I took a pic of it , so I tried some spruegoo , shown to me by baxter , worked like a charm , all better after sanding . thank's steve .

steve5

they mentioned the little dip in the bow , wish I took a pic of it , so I tried some spruegoo , shown to me by baxter , worked like a charm , all better after sanding . thank's steve .

Hey Steve! Thanks for letting us know that spruegoo worked well for you. I think you will find that the more you use it--the more you like it. 

I am enjoying your build, Steve. Keep up the good work!!

Steve,

  Like Steve said, "I am enjoying your build, ...Keep up the good work!" !

I made a tiny jar of that Spruegoo.  Much better than filling gaps with Superglue, at least for me.  It sands the same as the kit plastic or at least more evenly that dried CA.

     Jim.

P.S.  Nice fill job on the bow since I can't even see where you did it.

thanks steve , nino , really enjoy your comments .

finally recieved my barrels from masters , only took 5 weeks , nice job aussie post . I really think they make a difference . 

Hey Steve, those gun barrels look great. I think it was worth the wait! I can imagine they are more pristine than the plastic supplied parts. A dumb question for you. Are they cored out? Or partially? It is hard to tell from the pics.

Your project is moving along nicely. 

thanks steve , no they are only partially bored out . but I doubt anyone will ever look though . 

steve5

I doubt anyone will ever look though . 

 

just starting to see what I'm getting myself into . 38 pieces of PE , plus 12 barrel's .

But it looks so good! Looks cool, Steve. Watching and learning.