Switching from airbrush to rattle can

Yours would be a special case Coldiron and what is most comfortable to you is what's most important.

And also I got a set of special brushes from Hobby Lobby that have spaces between the bristles-just the thing for doing the streaks on a  Fokker Dr.1 fuselage.

Tom T

COLDIRON

GreenThumb:

El Taino:

I would NEVER recommend a Badger, Iwata or any of those  ABs to a beginner.

I disagree. What does the brand have to do with it anyhow? I started with a Paasche VL 20 years ago..... now that is harder to learn with as they are not very precise.

Start with a double action and practice, practice, practice. It's not that hard to learn.

 I think starting with a single or double action depends on the user.  I have found for me that a single action is much easier to use and gets me more consistent results than the double action.  It just depends on the user and application.  Badger's are easy for beginners to use, but I would not recommend a pricey airbrush or compressor to someone new to the hobby, start small and build up.

I found it the exact opposite. A good quality double action airbrush is much easier to learn with.

I had a Paasche H for many years since the late 1980's. I used it very little because it does not give me the control I want. I ended up using spray can a lot for easy use and did not see the advantage of an airbrush.

I tried an Aztek A470 and did not like it. I finally got an Iwata HP-CS 3 years ago and found that I finally can do the model painting with an airbrush for many tasks and the cleaning is easy between colors.

Yes, the choice of an airbrush is somewhat subjective and every user's experience is real. For the average modeler, an upgrade to a double action is inevitable. So, why not start with it. I found it easier to learn with than a simple, single action, external mix airbrush. YMMV.

keilau

 

COLDIRON:

 

 

GreenThumb:

El Taino:

I would NEVER recommend a Badger, Iwata or any of those  ABs to a beginner.

I disagree. What does the brand have to do with it anyhow? I started with a Paasche VL 20 years ago..... now that is harder to learn with as they are not very precise.

Start with a double action and practice, practice, practice. It's not that hard to learn.

 

 I think starting with a single or double action depends on the user.  I have found for me that a single action is much easier to use and gets me more consistent results than the double action.  It just depends on the user and application.  Badger's are easy for beginners to use, but I would not recommend a pricey airbrush or compressor to someone new to the hobby, start small and build up.

 

 

I found it the exact opposite. A good quality double action airbrush is much easier to learn with.

I had a Paasche H for many years since the late 1980's. I used it very little because it does not give me the control I want. I ended up using spray can a lot for easy use and did not see the advantage of an airbrush.

I tried an Aztek A470 and did not like it. I finally got an Iwata HP-CS 3 years ago and found that I finally can do the model painting with an airbrush for many tasks and the cleaning is easy between colors.

Yes, the choice of an airbrush is somewhat subjective and every user's experience is real. For the average modeler, an upgrade to a double action is inevitable. So, why not start with it. I found it easier to learn with than a simple, single action, external mix airbrush. YMMV.

One of the things that helped me sped up my learning curve was the nozzle system. I remember using food coloring and MM enamels on white cards at different distances and pressures. No disassembly needed. Just dropped the nozzle in lacquer thinner, flushed and I was laying another color in no time. I did learned with Aztek, not the other way around.  It is really hard for me to use another AB when I can get from general paint to extreme fine detail done with the AZTEK at a fraction of the time.

Ergonomics is another big plus from Aztek especially when those tiny details are laid free hand. Even with my small hands, I get hand fatigue with my Paschee Talon or Velocity very quick. I got them to see for myself what was the hype all about. If I list them on eBay today, I wont miss them a bit. I'm not saying they're bad tools or anything, but whatever can help me save from my allocated building time, I'll go for it.

This has kind of turned into a discussion of which airbrush is better, and it must be confusing to someone considering buying one.  So, I'll put in my two cents.  If you've looked at my website, you know I have a fair variety of brushes.  I have to say, with the exception of the single action Harbor Freight and the simple Badger 250, I could be happy with any of them.  I find that differences in cleaning are minor.  They feel different in the hand.  Some are heavy, some are light, and some balance better than others.  But I could get used to any of them.  And getting used to them is the secret.  Any airbrush is going to take some practice.  If you buy an airbrush, build a model and squirt some paint on it expecting prize results, you are likely to be disappointed.  If you take the time to learn how it works, how much thinning and air pressure it likes, and how best to clean it, you will do much better.

I should qualify my remarks by adding that I generally mask rather than trying to do tiny details freehand.  I'm not an artist.  If you are, then buy an artist's airbrush with a fine tip.  But, if you just want a nice smooth finish on you models, don't sweat it. Just buy a name brand from a source that will stand behind it, and you should do OK. 

Also, I don't own an Iwata or a Harder & Steenbeck, but I'm sure they are fine airbrushes.  I just don't see the need to invest in one for what I do.

Don

Don Wheeler

I could be happy with any of them.  I find that differences in cleaning are minor.  They feel different in the hand.  Some are heavy, some are light, and some balance better than others.  But I could get used to any of them.  And getting used to them is the secret.  

[...]if you just want a nice smooth finish on you models, don't sweat it. Just buy a name brand from a source that will stand behind it, and you should do OK. 

Don - that was exactly what I was trying to say when I compared airbrushes to golf clubs. The actual mechanical differences are minor and preference in large part comes down to subjective measures like "feel".

Like I said, I'm not the biggest badger fan because I'm used to linear needles, and the double taper or whatever it's called throws me in a way I don't care for, since it falls right around my modulation sweet spot. But that's totally a subjective thing and I know others love it.

Don Wheeler

If you don't enjoy it, you shouldn't do it.  It's a hobby.

Don

This.

More than anything else this hobby is supposed to be fun.  No one should feel compeled to do something just because that's the way someone else does it. 

Some of my fondest modeling memories are of brush-painting a Monogram 1/48 Helldiver way back when I was in the third grade.

FWIW, I've got a 30-year-old Badger 350 that I use most of the time, but also use spray cans for primer coats (gray or flat white), mostly for the convenience.

Mark

DoogsATX

Airbrushes are highly personal and subjective. They remind me a lot of baseball gloves and golf clubs and hockey sticks in that way. One person swears by one, and the other hates it and has another brand/model they prefer.

I also was not a fan of and sold my Grex Tritium. As an airbrush it was actually pretty great. But man, that pistol grip was not for me. Takes a lot more effort holding it 25% open than it does with a traditional airbrush.

Agreed, and that's a perfect example.  To me, the Grex Tritium is the greatest thing since sliced bread.  I have a far, far easier time controlling fine paint flow with the trigger in a pistol grip.  I also started out with an Aztek A7778, and while it works just fine trigger control eluded me.  Tried an Iwata (can't remember the model... sold it shortly after I got it) and while the trigger was better, I still had control and comfort problems.  Just picking up the Tritium brings a smile to my face.

I still have the Aztek and use it quite often with the white .5mm tip to blast out primers and Future.  No trigger control needed there.  :)

As to the OP, if you don't mind the smell and fumes hazard (and rattle cans are much worse in this regard for most paint types anyway), you'll likely get more consistent results out of solvent paints like enamels or lacquers.  In terms of prep they're 'easy mode' compared to performing acrylic alchemy.  Thin it and spray it.  With acrylics, you'll need to check the consistency of the specific bottle you're opening, filter the paint into the mixing jar to remove clumps of pigment, add retarder, add flow-aid, thin with future or acrylic medium, curse at it, clean the airbrush and adjust the amounts of the previous ingredients, curse at it some more, consult a barometer and relative humidity guage, adjust the temperature, then perhaps get a good finish.  The next day, do it all over because the humidity has changed.  

Bit of hyperbole there, and lots of people have excellent results with acrylics, but enamels and lacquers (Model Master enamel, Floquil, Mr Color, Tamiya with lacquer thinner, etc.) really are easy mode compared.  In my experience, paint prep was the biggest hurdle in the learning process.  When it comes to acrylics I'm still trying to learn it.  Probably why I'm stocked up on Mr Color, Tamiya, lacquer thinner, and a good mask.

i learned to AB with a habor freight unit. it worked awesome for a $20 piece. cleaning it wasn't a problem. the instructions are a joke and so with the internals. it's a super pain to put back together. 

i now use an iwata hp-cr and paasche talon.

paasche needles bent soo soo easy. the iwata needle is rock solid. 

only spray can stuff i use it Mr.Surfacer and Tamiya Primer.

i was never great with using a spray can and didn't always have money to buy them. 

and if i needed to mix a color...with a spray can i wasn't going to happen. 

As the saying goes (in Italy!!!):"The tool makes the Master....)It means all the tools are good to work but only same skilly hands can put out the best result from a tool........So the result don't depend only from skill but at a certain level also the tool has his importance.Enrico.

Italian Starfighter

As the saying goes (in Italy!!!):"The tool makes the Master....)It means all the tools are good to work but only same skilly hands can put out the best result from a tool........So the result don't depend only from skill but at a certain level also the tool has his importance.Enrico.

Yes, very true.

Some very aritistic and talented people can do wonderful work with a simple airbrush. For the average modeler with very limited skill in airbrushing like me, a fine linear needle means easier control of the paint flow. Besides, I like the result of finer atomization. I mask and soldemly do any freehand stuff. Most airbrush can work, but I find a range of good quality airbrush easier to use and learn from.

I tried the plastic AzteK A470, the fist one had some minor leak in the plastic body and was replaced. I decide not the keep it and sold it on Ebay at a loss. I don't like having to change nozzle for different details. It was bothersome to me. No doubt that the Aztek can do fine works. Just look at the video modelling Scaleworkshop by Brent Green.

The Iwata HP-CS, H&S Evolution and Badger Krome can all handle most task from fine line to larger area well with little over spray using the a single nozzle. I use the CS most simply because of the familarity factor. I got the CS first. And I can get Iwata parts cheap at local Hobby Lobby.

Great responses everyone, thanks for all the suggestions.

I'm still going to try rattle cans for the next couple of models, and see if I can duplicate the finish that I would get from an airbrush (or close to it anyway).   Troubleshooting and cleaning an airbrush is such a pain to me, I just love the convenience of a rattle can.

If I don't have any luck with rattle cans, then I'll give airbrushes another shot.

I've scene some awesome spray painting model work. 

me N spray cans don't get along. 

Yes, indeed. I too struggled with the airbrush, often going back and forth to the hobby shop trying to figure out what was going wrong, and the time to clean etc was ridiculous.  At the point where I began reading in Fine Scale Modeler that there are guys who would spray paint the yellow tips of propellers, I knew that life is too short for such weirdness. 

There is a wealth of information here in this string!

I am making this post to keep it from being buried.

In fact, if you you want to add your-go for it!

Tom T

I do understand your plight.

I would suggest keeping a Badger 250 and a large can of propellant around.  This is almost as bulletproof and easy as a rattle can with a much better spray, and the ability to use more colors.  You can also use  rattle cans as needed for primer etc.

This should cut way down on your downtime.

You can get both at Michaels Crafts with a 50% off weekly coupon which is pretty cheap.   The can should last about 3 models.  Propellant is about $10 bucks for the large can, the 250 is about $14 both using the coupons.

“spray paint the yellow tips of propellers”-LOL!

As a seasoned kit builder, I simply dip them into a bottle of paint and blot the excess by touching the tip on a paper towel.

I have heard a lot of good reports about the Badger 250.

For open air brushes I the Testors Aztec 220, and Harbor Freight's version of the Badger 350.

Like the 250, the 220 has less clean-up hassle, but also has two paint bottles with special tops that simply snap into place with their own built-in nozzles.

Tom T

Wilbur Wright

I do understand your plight.

I would suggest keeping a Badger 250 and a large can of propellant around.  This is almost as bulletproof and easy as a rattle can with a much better spray, and the ability to use more colors.  You can also use  rattle cans as needed for primer etc.

This should cut way down on your downtime.

You can get both at Michaels Crafts with a 50% off weekly coupon which is pretty cheap.   The can should last about 3 models.  Propellant is about $10 bucks for the large can, the 250 is about $14 both using the coupons.

 

Propellant or canned air? ROFLMAO! The biggest and greatest waste of money.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 

Wilbur Wright

I do understand your plight.

I would suggest keeping a Badger 250 and a large can of propellant around.  This is almost as bulletproof and easy as a rattle can with a much better spray, and the ability to use more colors.  You can also use  rattle cans as needed for primer etc.

This should cut way down on your downtime.

You can get both at Michaels Crafts with a 50% off weekly coupon which is pretty cheap.   The can should last about 3 models.  Propellant is about $10 bucks for the large can, the 250 is about $14 both using the coupons.

 

 

 

 

 

Propellant or canned air? ROFLMAO! The biggest and greatest waste of money.

 

If the guy is going to leave the hobby, has only an hour or two a week, and keeping him in it by using a simple method that is better than a rattle can, then yes, canned air in that case.

It's unfortunate the OP is so old - i wonder if he/she kept with the hobby.

I was in a similar situation to the OP when i first started. Bought a single action Paasche H 'cause everybody said to spend less and see if you like it first etc etc.

Whilst i enjoyed it, i always found the clean up such a chore.

2 years later I bought a dual action gravity feed Badger 100LG - and started cursing myself for not buying it earlier.

I think dual action gravity feeds are the bees knees - they are so easy to clean compared to an external single action. 

I'd never go back, and certainly never give up an a/b for a rattle can.

Wow, how time flies!  I am the OP and I'm happy to say I'm still in the hobby!  Things have definately changed since my original post.  My wife and I had a 2nd child, who is now 4.  So, I have a 4 and 7 year old, which is now funnily enough given me more time to model as they are no longer babies requiring round the clock attention.  

So, I did move to rattle cans for a time there, but I have since purchased an Iwata Revolution CR airbrush and Grex compressor.  I love it!  The airbrush is much easier for me to use, and the cleanup is a lot quicker.

I have been spraying enamels, but I'm now experimenting with acrylics.  I don't have a paint booth, (and I don't have the room for one), and I usually use a couple of fans, open window, etc to take care of the smell, but I think going acrylic will be much easier.  I just purchased some vallejo paints, and I'm hoping to try them out this weekend to see how they do.

Thanks for all the responses, it was very helpful!

Why not invest in a simple portable AB spray booth? they're so easy and convienent to use - plus they don't take up a lot of space. Use and close it up to store after you're finished.

I have this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Optional-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478797502&sr=8-3&keywords=portable+airbrush+spray+booth

Bluenote - great to see you're still around and enjoying the hobby. 

When I was part of a model club up until a couple of years ago (I have been in clubs across the country for over twenty years) there was a guy that didnt own an airbrush and did all of his incredible paint jobs with rattle cans from Model Car World.  Those are finely pigmented and quite expensive.  When i started building and wearing 1:1 models *costumes* I had to get to an acceptable level with spray cans, or pay out the big bucks to have parts painted at an auto body place.  SO--I mastered the paint can, with all its inherent faults. 

I lost a lot in the August floods. I have yet to replace my Iwata, and I have no idea where my compresor is, or if it even works. When my hobby lobby reopened Wednesday afternoon I got a paasche single action, the one that looks like a cheap-o model H.  It's like leaning to paint all over again, and Im trying to learn to paint with what the store sells, which is Vallejo Model Color.  My experience with that was like I had never held an airbrush, and I have been usin them for about 35 years.  I'm going to give it another shot today, but if that doesnt work out, I have already located the rattle can i will use, and so far that can has performed flawlessly. 

Ti4019

I lost a lot in the August floods. I have yet to replace my Iwata, and I have no idea where my compresor is, or if it even works. When my hobby lobby reopened Wednesday afternoon I got a paasche single action, the one that looks like a cheap-o model H. It's like leaning to paint all over again, and Im trying to learn to paint with what the store sells, which is Vallejo Model Color. My experience with that was like I had never held an airbrush, and I have been usin them for about 35 years. I'm going to give it another shot today, but if that doesnt work out, I have already located the rattle can i will use, and so far that can has performed flawlessly.

First and most importantly, sorry to hear of your experience with the flood. Best wishes for recovery from that.

You mentioned having issues with Vallejo Model Color and a new airbrush, even though you are an experienced airbrush user. I'd recommend not starting out with this paint, it insn't formulated for airbrushing, and making it work via thinning is challenging.

I'd switch to another paint, or get hold of some Vallejo Model Air (which is made for airbrushing), else you will probably abandon your new a/b for sure.

Note that I write this as a user of Vallejo as my primary paints, not as a person who dislikes the product.