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1/72 B-52D with Big Belly Mod, Operation Arc Light

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Sunday, March 17, 2013 7:15 PM

CND is alive and well.

Jim, thanks for that inside info. Yeah, sometimes duplicating a snafu is as difficult as

duplicating success.

Was E23 the code for a specific system, or E23 meant 'system' generically?

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Monday, March 18, 2013 11:25 AM

Hi, All,

I finally finished my MD-3 power generator. I say finally because I'm sooo glad to be done with it!  Big Smile

Below are a couple of pictures. Now I need to find a set of decals.

Cheers,

Russ

Tags: MD-3 , generator

 

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: Middletown, OH
Posted by Buffirn on Monday, March 18, 2013 1:34 PM

Dom  E23 was a specific system.  Each of the major systems had a code.

Russ  That is great!  I can't wait to see the final product. BUFF, bombs and all!

Jim Williams

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, March 19, 2013 9:29 PM

Thanks, Jim!   I'm anxious to see it too!. Big Smile

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Sunday, March 24, 2013 2:54 AM

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I finally finished my MD-3 power generator. I say finally because I'm sooo glad to be done with it!  Big Smile

Below are a couple of pictures. Now I need to find a set of decals.

Cheers,

Russ

Russ nice job on that generator, I can almost hear it running. I used to run power pallet trucks in warehouses, click-whine, click, click, whine, click, Ka-chunck......

Where did you get the control panel, i mIssed something there. Is that a scratch effort, or a kit, missed that too....

Dom

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Sunday, March 24, 2013 5:22 AM

Russ:

Did i also miss the updated bomb-clip article?

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, March 24, 2013 9:18 AM

Bockscar

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I finally finished my MD-3 power generator. I say finally because I'm sooo glad to be done with it!  Big Smile

Below are a couple of pictures. Now I need to find a set of decals.

Cheers,

Russ

 

Russ nice job on that generator, I can almost hear it running. I used to run power pallet trucks in warehouses, click-whine, click, click, whine, click, Ka-chunck......

Where did you get the control panel, i mIssed something there. Is that a scratch effort, or a kit, missed that too....

Dom

 

Thanks for the good words, Dom! Big Smile.  The generator panel is from a photo I found. I resized it and printed it out on photo paper, then cut it out and glued it on. It came out pretty good, much to my surprise Smile.

Bockscar

Russ:

Did i also miss the updated bomb-clip article?

Dom

 

It's on page 30. I emailed you a copy and also an update. Did you get them?

Russ

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, March 24, 2013 9:22 AM

Well, I'm sorry, Dom. I thought I sent you a copy, but I just went back through my sent emails and don't see your addy, and for some reason, it's not saved in Outlook. Can you PM me your email addy again?

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Sunday, March 24, 2013 12:14 PM

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I finally finished my MD-3 power generator. I say finally because I'm sooo glad to be done with it!  Big Smile

Below are a couple of pictures. Now I need to find a set of decals.

Cheers,

Russ

Thanks for the good words, Dom! Big Smile.  The generator panel is from a photo I found. I resized it and printed it out on photo paper, then cut it out and glued it on. It came out pretty good, much too my surprise Smile.

That is a really good idea Russ!  I will have to remember that one.  I keep forgetting that even though the kit you are building is 1/72 scale ends up being quite large (over 30 inch wingspan!), the ground equipment you are building for this diorama is also at 1/72 scale.  That adds to the incredible detail you put into that at that scale!  Once again, great job!  Yes  Yes 

Ken

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, March 24, 2013 2:53 PM

Thanks, Ken!  I really appreciate the good words  Big Smile.

Russ

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Sunday, March 24, 2013 3:17 PM

My dad was in SAC for almost his entire career. When we lived at RAF Upper Heyford our backyard was the B-47 line. The only thing that separated us from the aircraft parked 100 feet away was a fence. I watched the ground crews using this ground support equipment without knowing what it was for but am now getting an education. Thanks, Russ! Great work.

Lee

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, March 24, 2013 3:42 PM

Thanks, Lee!  Wow, Upper Hayford - I heard a lot about it but I never made it there. I was TDY to RAF Mildenhall in Suffolk back in 1976 for a couple of weeks. Crazy blokes there Big Smile.  I loved the English villages and countryside.  They sure do talk funny though... Wink

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Sunday, March 24, 2013 4:06 PM

Russ:

Enjoying your new Bomb Clip Manual.

I see you've incorporated the angle in the clip panels, that looks greatYes

I was going to cut those in mine, but was messing around trying to figure

out the blue print......many thanks for that!!!

Hey, speaking of panels, great innovation for the control panel on

the MD-3 Power Generator, very convincing! Thought you bought that!

Dom

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:09 AM

Hi, All,

If you're building a bomb clip (or just the bombs themselves), you will probably want to paint the yellow stripe on the noses. For the 500 lb bombs, the end of the nose is yellow; for a 750 lb bomb, a yellow stripe is painted around the nose. I discovered a relatively easy way to mark the ends of the bombs for painting:

NOTE: This procedure assumes you have already painted the body of the bomb.

500 lb Bomb:

1. Place the bomb on a flat surface so you can rotate it freely. If you've already attached the tail fins, place the bomb at the end of a raised flat surface.

2. Place a heavy object with a vertical face in front of the bomb so the nose contacts it, or you can glue/clamp a wood or plastic block in front of it.

3. Make a mark about 2 mm from the end of the nose on each bomb.

4. Place a sharpened standard  pencil perpendicular to the bomb with the sharpened end contacting the nose of the bomb at the mark.

5. Rotate the bomb against the block to create a circular line.

6. Paint the entire marked area yellow.

750 lb Bomb:

1. A 750 lb bomb is a bit trickier because you need to create a stripe. On each bomb, make a mark about 4 mm from the nose end of the bomb.

2. Decide on how wide you want the stripe (I made mine about 1.5 mm) and make a second mark toward the nose of the bomb.

3. Place the bomb with its nose against the block.

4. Lay the pencil perpendicular to the end of the bomb at each mark and rotate the bomb to create the outline of the stripe.

5. Paint the stripe yellow.

Hope this works for you Big Smile,

Russ

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:28 AM

Hey, All,

Have any of you encountered a problem with Outlook where you click on the link in an FSM message in Outlook and the page opens in the FSM thread but is blank? This only seems to happen occasionally and appears to have something to do with the post itself but I can't figure out what is causing it.

Russ

 

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rowland Heights, California
Posted by Duke Maddog on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:59 PM

Striker, another way to paint the nose of the bombs is to place a bit of paint in a small tray to the level you want the color to be. Then dip the nose of the bomb into the paint. Be sure to thin it enough so the paint doesn't look glopped on. To do one with a stripe, dip the nose in a deeper layer of paint; then when it is dry, dip it into a lower level of the original color. Of course, be sure to keep the bomb perpendicular at all times. This technique should give you a straight line every time.

As for your second post; that just happened to me when I came here from my E-mail notification today. I had to go to the first page, then come back to the last one to see this final post.

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:03 PM

Thanks, Duke. That sounds like a good way to do it. How would you keep the bomb perpendicular to the paint?

Yup, that's what happened to me. If you're having the same problem, it's probably a glitch in the FSM program.

Thanks again,

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:17 PM

Striker8241

Hi, All,

If you're building a bomb clip (or just the bombs themselves), you will probably want to paint the yellow stripe on the noses. For the 500 lb bombs, the end of the nose is yellow; for a 750 lb bomb, a yellow stripe is painted around the nose. I discovered a relatively easy way to mark the ends of the bombs for painting:

NOTE: This procedure assumes you have already painted the body of the bomb.

500 lb Bomb:

1. Place the bomb on a flat surface so you can rotate it freely. If you've already attached the tail fins, place the bomb at the end of a raised flat surface.

2. Place a heavy object with a vertical face in front of the bomb so the nose contacts it, or you can glue/clamp a wood or plastic block in front of it.

3. Make a mark about 2 mm from the end of the nose on each bomb.

4. Place a sharpened standard  pencil perpendicular to the bomb with the sharpened end contacting the nose of the bomb at the mark.

5. Rotate the bomb against the block to create a circular line.

6. Paint the entire marked area yellow.

750 lb Bomb:

1. A 750 lb bomb is a bit trickier because you need to create a stripe. On each bomb, make a mark about 4 mm from the nose end of the bomb.

2. Decide on how wide you want the stripe (I made mine about 1.5 mm) and make a second mark toward the nose of the bomb.

3. Place the bomb with its nose against the block.

4. Lay the pencil perpendicular to the end of the bomb at each mark and rotate the bomb to create the outline of the stripe.

5. Paint the stripe yellow.

Hope this works for you Big Smile,

Russ

 

Many thanks for the instructions Russ, may come in very handy.

I was also going to remove that rear fusing panel on the bombs at the bottom of the clips,

I don't know if I have the patience to do all 84.

Dom

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:21 PM

Striker8241

Thanks, Duke. That sounds like a good way to do it. How would you keep the bomb perpendicular to the paint?

Yup, that's what happened to me. If you're having the same problem, it's probably a glitch in the FSM program.

Thanks again,

Russ

Duke, thanks for the painting tip as well, I'm going to be busy with that.

Guys, sometimes when I go onto this thread, the last page won't come up, so I go the the top and click one word back and then go forward again and the page comes up. I'm not sure it is exactly the same glitch, but it does happen about once every 5 times I log on.

I can't make it happen, as in, CND.....

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, March 26, 2013 2:31 PM

Bockscar

Many thanks for the instructions Russ, may come in very handy.

I was also going to remove that rear fusing panel on the bombs at the bottom of the clips,

I don't know if I have the patience to do all 84.

Dom

 
Thanks,  Dom.  It's not necessary to remove them, bud. It's hard to see them anyway and that's a lot of extra work. Just mount the bombs with the panels toward the inside and put any rough bombs on the inner rows.
 
If you do want to show the panels correctly, you need to sand them down even with the surface then scribe the outline. For clips installed in the bomb bay, you would only need to do that for the bombs on the bottom of the rows - these are the only bombs where the panels would be visible.
 
For the ones in a display clip outside the bomb bay, you need to do the ones in the outside two rows and the ones at the very top, which would be about 13 bombs.
 
Cheers,
 
Russ

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 7:05 AM

My plans to continue with the diorama base this last weekend got sidetracked but I did manage to do some more spray painting on the fuselage. Since this is my first time spray painting a plastic model, and I'm using spray cans, I'm taking it slowly. Also, I'm using Parafilm - M to mask it, which takes some practice to make it work. One thing I don't like about it is you have to trim it with a sharp Exacto blade which leaves a line in the plastic or paint no matter how gently you cut.

I don't have enough for the wings so I plan to try silly putty next.  

Cheers,

Russ

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Rowland Heights, California
Posted by Duke Maddog on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 1:42 PM

Striker8241

Thanks, Duke. That sounds like a good way to do it. How would you keep the bomb perpendicular to the paint?

Thanks again,

Russ

I would say eyeball it. Generally it's pretty easy. I knew one guy who attached the bombs to toothpicks or something similar, making sure that they were lined up with the bomb centerline. Then he attached a clamp to the small drill press that he uses with his Dremel so that he could clip the bombs to the drill press and use that to dip the bombs while keeping them perpendicular to the paint.

I personally have eyeballed it and it came out very nicely.

Keep up the great work; I'm looking forward to more.

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 2:25 PM

Thanks, Duke. I'm cooking up two more clips worth of bombs so I'll be trying your method for sure.

Cheers,

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:00 PM

Striker8241

My plans to continue with the diorama base this last weekend got sidetracked but I did manage to do some more spray painting on the fuselage. Since this is my first time spray painting a plastic model, and I'm using spray cans, I'm taking it slowly. Also, I'm using Parafilm - M to mask it, which takes some practice to make it work. One thing I don't like about it is you have to trim it with a sharp Exacto blade which leaves a line in the plastic or paint no matter how gently you cut.

I don't have enough for the wings so I plan to try silly putty next.  

Cheers,

Russ

 

That looks real nice Russ!  Yes  Yes  I think you did a great job!  (It took me a while to find it in the picture, since it was camouflaged!!  Big Smile )

Ken

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:16 PM

Duke Maddog

Striker8241

Thanks, Duke. That sounds like a good way to do it. How would you keep the bomb perpendicular to the paint?

Thanks again,

Russ

I would say eyeball it. Generally it's pretty easy. I knew one guy who attached the bombs to toothpicks or something similar, making sure that they were lined up with the bomb centerline. Then he attached a clamp to the small drill press that he uses with his Dremel so that he could clip the bombs to the drill press and use that to dip the bombs while keeping them perpendicular to the paint.

I personally have eyeballed it and it came out very nicely.

Keep up the great work; I'm looking forward to more.

Duke, to avoid the blobbing or glomming issue, how thick or thin should the 'sheep dip' be?

Jess' wundrin', my hands like a few before me, are beyond neuro surgery.

Dom

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:21 PM

Russ:

looking forward to the new clips. Your new blue-print is more accurate, and i have noted

you are making the panels flush, rather than having a border, right?

I was thinking about the bevel in in the clip panel, and they did put the latch for the big yellow

pick-up hooks right where the panel goes straight up and down, right?

Anyhow, now my question is to:

Cut the entire panel out of a single piece of stock, i.e. there's that big gap,

Assemble the panel out of 2 or 3 pieces. i dunno.

Looking forward to your 'bleeding edge' innovation on that Russ!!!!....Wink

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:44 PM

Son Of Medicine Man

Striker8241

My plans to continue with the diorama base this last weekend got sidetracked but I did manage to do some more spray painting on the fuselage. Since this is my first time spray painting a plastic model, and I'm using spray cans, I'm taking it slowly. Also, I'm using Parafilm - M to mask it, which takes some practice to make it work. One thing I don't like about it is you have to trim it with a sharp Exacto blade which leaves a line in the plastic or paint no matter how gently you cut.

I don't have enough for the wings so I plan to try silly putty next.  

Cheers,

Russ

 

That looks real nice Russ!  Yes  Yes  I think you did a great job!  (It took me a while to find it in the picture, since it was camouflaged!!  Big Smile )

Ken

Lol, Ken!  That's funny! But you're too generous, my friend - I can see errors even from here! Thanks for the good words though. I'm learning thanks to you guys Big Smile.

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:56 PM

Gosh Russ,,,,,

Errors?????

Like you forgot to put wings on it man........

And no rear elevators or radome, I dunno......

That work surface of yours looks pretty cool Russ,

that's what i call weathering....

By the way, is that grey colour going on the wings?

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 8:59 PM

Dom,

Thanks for the good words, bud! Ya, I made them flush since the border was out of scale, and it also added to the overall width of the clip. The thickness of the new panels themselves is pretty much to scale so even if you went to the trouble of adding the border, you wouldn't be able to see it unless you were real close, or had really good eyesight.

As for the pickup points, yes they were at the point where the panel changes from vertical to slanted. Again, the scale pieces turned out to be so small that they would hardly show, so I left them off.

I cut each panel out of a solid piece of plastic, then I cut out the slot. From what I encountered, I recommend you just outline the slot first, glue the 11 mm top brace in place, then cut out the slot. I had a problem with the plastic bending outward as I cut the sides of the slot and that made it difficult to keep the cut straight. The brace will help keep everything straight. However, with the brace glued onto the top, it protrudes over both sides so you'll need to place the panel on a raised surface with the brace hanging over the side and the panel lying flat.

There's my bleeding edge innovation lol!

Russ

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 9:04 PM

Bockscar

By the way, is that grey colour going on the wings?

Dom

No, that grey area is the next area I need to paint. Shhhhh.... I'm sneaking up on it... Big Smile

Russ

 

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