ME-262: Reich Defender II 10/09-7/10

bondoman wrote:

To add to the merriment, on sale now, the Bondomatic opener- An all-in-one tool that cures depression, opens problem containers and ensures a pleasant hobby session! Order it now and get, for free, the optional wrist-saver, one motion, key to open container tool (shown). "I use it every day!"- satisfied user.

So if I act now, within the next 20 minutes (because I know you can't do this all day - are you following me camera guy?  ), will you double my order?

Imagine my surprise when I pop over to the ME-262 GB and my name is right there! Spooky! Probably the weirder part is that I have a note to myself to "PM DAYWALKER" so I can write down the problem with those colors.

I missed the beginning of this GB (didn't even SEE it), and then disqualified myself due to a distinct lack of ME-262's in the stash...however, I was recently fortunate enough to score a Trumpeter 1/32 a1a variant for a song off of Ebay. Let me see what I can do to shoehorn that monster into the build rotation before the end date!

Appears that I have forty-something pages of back reading to do...

tempestjohnny wrote:

I just use a pair of slip-joint pliers...

You gotta have some strong hands to crush paint bottles, geez!  Mental note: watch out for this guy.

Be careful when you go to pick up that MM RLM 83, as I have read that this color is mixedup with their RLM 82.  I remember dupes and someone else running into this problem.  FYI- Tamiya XF-61 is a really close match for RLM 83.

To add to the merriment, on sale now, the Bondomatic opener-

An all-in-one tool that cures depression, opens problem containers and ensures a pleasant hobby session!

Order it now and get, for free, the optional wrist-saver, one motion, key to open container tool (shown).

"I use it every day!"- satisfied user.

Mike I usally take the Testors jars that have stuck lids and put them in hot water for about 5 minutes and they always come off very easy I just did not want to wait. Per usual brute force and ignorance was applied instead and now I have a nice cut on my hand to show for it.

Dave I always make sure to wipe down the rim of all of my Testor paint jars before I put the lids back on them but they still continue to stick. I even had one closed jar fall on its side and the paint still managed to leak out all over the jars underneath it and make a big mess. I love the paints but I hate the jars!

                                                                                             Soulcrusher

SC, with those nurses lookin' after you, you're in good hands!

Here's a tip I use when I have a lid that's stuck. I invert the bottle and squirt a few drops of lacquer thinner between the lid and the jar, let it work a few minutes and then the lids twist right off. Works every time! Now, get to healin' and get back to the bench soon.

Frank if Tamiya made a full line of colors I would use them exclusively. I have some of the large jars that are over 20 years old and are still good. Every one in awhile one will stick but with the grooves on the lid they always come open.

Herc thanks for the nurses. Are they naughty nurses? Thoses are my favorite! That is how I got my name Soulcrusher because my hand are so strong my freinds always said I could crush the soul out of anyone. I am always breaking drinking glasses too when I am doing the dishes by gripping them to tight and snapping chunks out of the tops. I guess I do'nt know my own strengh but I never believed I was strong enough to snap the top off of a glass paint jar. Guy might have the manliest mustache but I have the manliest hands!

I am going to see my freind who owns the local hobby store and pic up some more RLM 83 tomorrow and I hope my hand does'nt hurt to bad. I am really into this camo on the 262 and I am chomping at the bit to lay some more paint on her.

                                                                                             Soulcrusher

Soulcrusher-Sorry to hear about your mishap. I now know that you are strong enough to break a paint jar with your bare hands, so no hand shakes when you are pissed off. Hope it heals quickly and that you are able to operate your airbrush.

I decided you might need a nurse to look after you so I went and got a few from the FAA group build.

Kannichiwa & arigato- Jason

bondoman wrote:

I'd assume you'll dip it in Future...

Hmmm... not a bad idea!  But, I actually sprayed it.  Decals soon!  Thanks guys, glad you like it so far.

Crusher- OMG, another bench injury!  Be careful my friend, I would feel terrible if this GB sent you back to the hospital!  Hope your hand heals quickly.  Yet another reason why I never liked MM paints.  Gimme Tamiya paint any day!

Well I sat down at the bench and grabbed my bottle of Testors RLM 83 lightgreen to touch up a couple of spots before i moved on to the camo. Of course the lid was stuck agian as always with these crappy jars that Testors has been useing forever. So I wrapped my manly hands around the jar firmly and clamped my other hand down tight as I could on the lid and gave it a twist. I hear a loud POP! and paint flys all over my pants shirt and bench. Alot of swear words follow then I notice my hand hurts. I look down at the lid in my hand and there is the top of the jar still attached to the lid with a nice jagged piece sticking out of it. I quickly put the latex glove off my hand that hurts and there is a nice gash about 3cm long between my thumb and finger.Then the blood starts pouring out. I managed to wash all of the green paint out of the cut and bandage my hand up but now I am pissed! It also was the only jar of RLM 83 I had. Why can't Testors make a good jar like Tamiya that will open after it has been used more than 2 times. Its going to be hard to hold an airbrush in my hand now with this bandage on my hand. I hate Testors paint jars!!!!!

                                                                                            Soulcrusher

Frank, that paintjob looks awesome, my friend. Mad skills, sir. Mad skills.

...Guy

Totally awsome work Frank, U have mad skills my friend.

Steve

Daywalker wrote:

Evil Herc wrote: You now have em in 1/48, 1/72 & 1/144. Are they all still for the cheap cheap price of $599.99???? lol Yes, they are still available for that one low price!  I am concerned about a potential price increase on 1/1/10, so get your orders in now! Thanks fellas, I am liking it so far!  Hope to put a gloss coat on it tonight so I can decal it soon.

Evil Herc wrote:

You now have em in 1/48, 1/72 & 1/144. Are they all still for the cheap cheap price of $599.99???? lol

Yes, they are still available for that one low price!  I am concerned about a potential price increase on 1/1/10, so get your orders in now!

Thanks fellas, I am liking it so far!  Hope to put a gloss coat on it tonight so I can decal it soon.  

Good point, Jason.  Completely forgot that the fuel cell is hollow .

Not that I'm anywhere near that stage yet, but before I obliterate anything I'm not supposed to, did the 262 have any seem lines running front to back?  Usually, I forget to ask and end up sanding away detail that's supposed to be there.

-Fred

Fred-You could build the forward fuel cell that goes between the cockpit and gunbay. Fill it with lead so you have forward CG. Also there is a fuel cell right behind the cockpit.

Frank-Awesome work on your Mini Stormbird. Wow...your highend paint stand factory is turning out dozens of new models. You now have em in 1/48, 1/72 & 1/144. Are they all still for the cheap cheap price of $599.99???? lol

Kanichiwa & Arigato- Jason

Frank,            Abhghd;loiz ljsfgioue  .,xvsuger (speechless!)

As I build in 1/72 I know how hard that mottle must be to do in 1/144

Geez, Frank - that paint job's incredible.  You've certainly earned that break

-Fred

Thanks again, guys

Guy, she's a big bird, in 1/32.

I've still got a lot of detailing to do for the wheel wells, but because she's going to be a visible, version, I have a lot of work ahead of me.  I'm still trying to work out the logistics of wiring the radio, running the rudder control rods and elevator controls and the rudder/elevator control assembly that sits at the base of the tail.

I'm looking forward to the engines, as trumpeter put a lot of detail into those assemblies.  Between trumpeter's design and the pictures I have, I may actually do both engines as visible .

My one and only concern, though, is, what if she's a tail-sitter?  As a visible version, I have no place to hide counterweights.  What do I do, then?

-Fred

Guy- That's right, now available in 1/144!  Same price however, even though they are smaller.

Mottle finishes in 1/144 are tricky!  Still, I finished painting it and am pleased with how it looks so far.

RLM 82 on...

Masked up, and starting the RLM 81...

The contrast was fairly high between the colors, so I mixed a third color to blend them in a little...

Time for a break!

Geez Frank, you didnt say the Frankenstyro stand came in 1/144. My order is in the mail. Great work on the iddy widdy one.

Fred, the gunbay looks fantastic. What scale is she?

...Guy

Fred-reat looking gun bay. The wiring and air hoses look spot on from my references. The end of the barrels do not need to be drilled out. they are hidden under the nose cone.

I finally got pics of my jet. I have finished the gunbay. I did not have PE so i wired it myself.

I have the wings and nacelles on. I had to do a little bit of filling and sanding at the front of the nacelles. 

Kanichiwa & Arigato-Jason

Thanks, guys

Jeremy, the wiring from the fuse boxes is PE from the Eduard kit.  The black wiring from the ignition boxes to the trigger is .015" solder and the yellow wiring for the power is strands of copper from 22ga. wire.

Bondo, I've been going back and forth on that.  I want to, but then once they're installed in the blast tube, would they even be visible?.  I'll have to do a few test fits to see what can or can't be seen.

-Fred

Nice work on the gunbay Fred. Very well done.

Frank where are the pics of the 262 all painted up?

I layed down some lightblue on the underside of my 262 and then the overall topside color of light green. I am going to need a little clean up on the demarkation line tomorrow night then onto the little dark green green spots. Sorry no pics. My little sister has my digital camera. She needed it to take her pre Xmas photos. Hopefully she will bring it back soon as I feel naked without it for some reason?

                                                                                            Soulcrusher

Summit wrote:

Frank is just teasing us with this - He has a whole slew of 1/250 Crosairs to build in 1/350 scale... tick ~tock January is coming up fast Frankie

YIKES!  I wasn't planning on building the carrier this round.  Figured that one would take two years to build the air wing, and at least two to three years to build the carrier.  Longer than the US was involved in WWII!

jmabx wrote:

If you're not a watchmaker...

You're not too far off the mark there my friend.

Excellent work Fred, love the wiring in that gun bay!  Really adds a busy look to it.  This build is your best work I have seen thus far, VERY well done.

Wow, Frank... insane! Filler and all. If you're not a watchmaker, I'll eat Guy's mustache!   I am definitely looking forward to seeing paint on that tiny thing.

Fred - Your work in the gun bay looks great! I really love the wiring in there. What did you use for wire?