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Official Natural Metal Finish Group Build II

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Sunday, May 9, 2010 8:47 AM

Great looking F-84 Mike, can't wait to see it with the toned panels!

Dobby- I have never personally tried the Alclad black basecoat, but have heard of others having trouble with it.  IIRC, they ended up using Krylon rattle-can black as a base instead.

As far as stripping the model, I have done that MANY times- probably 6 of them in the past year.  My suggestion is to get some Gunze Mr. Levelling thinner (available at Sprue Bros) and some cotton swabs.  The thinner will take off any paint I have used (including lacquers) and will not harm the plastic if cleaned off with a rag or swab.  I don't know if it would attack it if the model were soaked in it.  However, dipping cotton buds in it and rubbing off the paint will work well.  It also has the effect of "buffing" the plastic to a bit of a sheen.  I did this a couple of weeks ago on a Tamiya F-16, which had a lacquer primer coat, many layers of Tamiya acrylics, Future coats, and flat coats.  It's messy, but it works.

Some parts done, waiting to start the airframe...

Halfway through...

Ready for another go at it!

Hope that helps!

 

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:02 AM

Nicefit,

Probably a stupid question but did you spray/ brush an "inbetween" coat of future or the likes? I used to screw up all my NMF jobs too. Somehow metal paint just doesn't like to be masked...

Using a thin coat of future inbetween layers solved this for me as well as sufficient drying time for all layers. Also it helps to first stick the masking tape on your arm once oir twice to reduce the stickyness of itWink

So... No harm done. Deep breath....a smoke... count till ten and get back inthereToast

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:03 AM

Thanks, Frank -- I'm hoping this beastie will look the part when the varied tones, decals and panel wash are done.

I'm very interested in the stripping technique you've described, too. I've never stripped a project, basically I've never had to -- except for one that's been bugging me, an unfinished F-4U-1D I was working on for the last Corsair GB. The enamels orange-peeled badly, and I tried multiple coats of clear acrylic to even it out, but it's not satisfactory. It's been on the shelf ever since, and stripping it is a whole new ballgame for me. I'm not sure we can get the Gunze "Mr" range in this country, but I can check around. You say this thinner will break down everything, even laquer? So, as laquer is chemically hotter than enamels, it should lift the enamel?

Interesting, to say the least!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:06 AM

Daywalker, yes - that does help. Thank you! I'll try the Mr. Gunze and the Krylon. (I think it's odd that Alclad own primer doesn't work - weird!).

Let me ask another question. With previous attempts at removing paint (with lacquer thinners, mineral spirits, and even diluted mineral spirits) I found that as I was wiping off the paint some type of "lint" would stick to the plastic. This happened with both paper towels and low-linting rags. I gather that you don't encounter that with your process? 

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:16 AM

kermit

Nicefit,

Probably a stupid question but did you spray/ brush an "inbetween" coat of future or the likes? I used to screw up all my NMF jobs too. Somehow metal paint just doesn't like to be masked...

Kermit - Not a stupid question. I did not spray an "in between" coat. The Alclad website did not indicate this was necessary. But if that's what it takes...

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:22 AM

NiceFit

Let me ask another question. With previous attempts at removing paint (with lacquer thinners, mineral spirits, and even diluted mineral spirits) I found that as I was wiping off the paint some type of "lint" would stick to the plastic. This happened with both paper towels and low-linting rags. I gather that you don't encounter that with your process? 

That sounds like the thinner was attacking the plastic itself- not good!  I have not had this happen while using the Mr. Levelling thinner.  In fact, the surface of the plastic is much smoother than it was before I painted it the first time!  The thinner will remove lacquers, enamels, acrylics, decals, clearcoats, everything!  Like I said, I don't know if soaking the model in it would cause it to attack the surface, but dipping a cotton bud in the thinner, then rubbing it over the surface and allowing it to work for a minute or two, then scrubbing the paint out of the panel lines, and finally wiping it off does not hurt the plastic.  I have stripped my F-16, another F-16 cockpit, a Tamiya Corsair, a Tamiya Zero, a Hasegawa 109, and some other detail parts with this method- works a charm!

Gotta admit though...

While I am happy that I have found a technique that works, having to strip so many models is a bit of a bummer.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 10:05 AM

Daywalker, I just ordered the thinner from Sprue Brothers Models (thanks for the tip) and will remove the paint using cotton swabs. I will not soak the model. Yes, I do believe the thinners attacked the plastic then bonded the lint to the plastic.

It is a bummer you've had to strip so many kits. I guess I can't complain since this will be my first.

Btw, I shared my predicament with Alclad. If they respond with anything interesting, I will post their response here.

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Rhode Island
Posted by jmabx on Sunday, May 9, 2010 12:07 PM

Nice little tutorial on stripping the paint Frank. Yes

Some great work here so far fellas!

I managed to get a start on my XF-91 and, so far, things aren't going as planned. Dead

I want to replace the nose with the nose from a Tamiya F-84 kit, so I started by marking my cut and taking the saw to it...

 

Here's the new F-84 nose mocked up next to the XF-91 nose...

By my measurements, this thing was supposed to be a perfect fit, so I cut the nose off of the XF-91 and that's where things went wrong. What I neglected to take into consideration was the shape of the two pieces. The XF-91 has a round profile looking at it head on where the F-84 is kind of oval shape. Not good! What I ended up doing was gluing the nose back on the XF-91 and adding the nose ring and intake trunking from the F-84. I wanted the whole nose from the F-84 so that I could use the cockpit also but instead I just used some sprue to make a mounting point for the F-84 cockpit.

And here's the new nose job... and some scars too! Whistling What have I gotten myself into?!

Next order of business is to find her an engine!

Sorry for all the pics! Beer

Jeremy    Propeller

    

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 12:25 PM

Jmabx,

WOW,...Surprise Thats pretty darn impressive. Wish i had the guts to do that kind of drastic stuff to a model i was building LOL. I am pretty sure you will overcome your problems and end up building a great model.Yes Scariest thing i ever did was cutting the flaps from a wildcat to pose them in the open positionEmbarrassed... Way to go!

Now that my little chrome experiment is over i returned to the hobby bench and managed to get some work done myself:

Some seams, especially the part with the top turret on it will need some extra attention before i start spraying.... It just would NOT fit right...Hmm Nothing too bad though...

Also started some wing work, still needs filling and touching up:

Thanks for looking and see ya soonWinkYes

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Novi, Mi
Posted by Lancair IV on Sunday, May 9, 2010 12:36 PM

My P-51D is complete.  Covered with kitchen foil except for the wings.

The office

Cheers

Rob Byrnes

Novi, Mi

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 12:59 PM

Lancair,

Nice looking Mustang! You must be proud. May I ask how you painted the nose cone? Did you paint it yellow then dip it in red paint? If so, you must have a steady hand and perfect aim.

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 1:05 PM

Bow DownWell done indeed! Thats a terrific mustang. Noseart is nice too LOL. Really crisp and clean, nice weathering; not overdone, not underdone. Great masking work on the prop (i take it you masked it instead of dipping it...). Congrats on a fine model!Toast

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 1:07 PM

Oooh... Not to mention that gorgeous IP... must say im really impressed with that one (and happy to have just posted my 500th post...Clown)

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 1:09 PM

NiceFit

Btw, I shared my predicament with Alclad. If they respond with anything interesting, I will post their response here.

fyi... here's what I got back: "The Gloss Black is optimized for the high shine finishes (chrome,polished aluminium stainless steel airframe aluminium) which need a very shiny surface-the other finishes,including aluminium adhere better to grey primer type base coats.I've advised other modellers who have been in the same situation to lightly scuff the black with 6000 micromesh."

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Novi, Mi
Posted by Lancair IV on Sunday, May 9, 2010 1:15 PM

NiceFit

Lancair,

Nice looking Mustang! You must be proud. May I ask how you painted the nose cone? Did you paint it yellow then dip it in red paint? If so, you must have a steady hand and perfect aim.

Thanks for the compliments guys

I painted the entire spinner yellow, then I put it on my surface plate and using a pencil, drew a line around it, followed by careful masking to that line and red paint.

Cheers

Rob Byrnes

Novi, Mi

  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: Ancaster, Ontario
Posted by maxfax on Sunday, May 9, 2010 5:18 PM

Here is my WIP of my 1/48 P-47 D. Cockpit components painted and will put them together soon- will be a little challenge to route all the wiring behind the panel- the back appears to be visible when placed in the fuselage. I tried to make my own belts using wire and Tamiya tape- turned out OK, I think.

Rob

On the bench:  Revell 1/72 HCMS Snowberry

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, May 9, 2010 5:42 PM

vetteman42

Stikpusher You KNOW huh LOL you are in and welcome back

Thank you Vette... Well here is my carryover F-84E from the NMF Pt I. I just was never able to get it quite finished although as of now I fell I am pretty close.

I am done painting the NMF. I used three different shades of Aluminum. Humbrol overall first, a nice weathered dull dark shade, then I masked off and used Tamiya, a much brighter shade on the center of the wings, stabilizers, tail, and some select panes on the front and rear fuselage. Then I used Testors small bottle, a shade in between the two, on the elevators, ailerons, drop tank pylons, rudder, and two panels on the nose. The effect I was trying for was like the old Chromed Hawk kits I used to build. The effect did not photograph well, but is quite visible in person.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, May 9, 2010 7:05 PM

Guys, great work all around. I esp love your P-51 Lancair.

I suppose my P-38 is probably closer to 75% finished so I won't be entering her here. I've learned a great deal from this GB and the previous so crossing my fingers I'll have her posted on the aircraft forum sometime this summer.

If she turns out well I have a pile of other NM subjects to do when I get some other GBs cleared off my workbench. I have to admit Kermit's B-17 leaves me sorely tempted to start work on my Minicraft 1/72 B-29......

Whistling

Good luck and clear skies gentlemen...

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Brisbane
Posted by Julez72 on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:17 PM

NiceFit

 

 NiceFit:

 

Btw, I shared my predicament with Alclad. If they respond with anything interesting, I will post their response here.

 

 

fyi... here's what I got back: "The Gloss Black is optimized for the high shine finishes (chrome,polished aluminium stainless steel airframe aluminium) which need a very shiny surface-the other finishes,including aluminium adhere better to grey primer type base coats.I've advised other modellers who have been in the same situation to lightly scuff the black with 6000 micromesh."

NiceFit, With alclad i sand the entire surface of the model as smooth as possible and then add a layer of future before putting down the alclad and then another coat of future after to protect it all....I've never had any problems with this method.....

Well so i don't post for 24 hours and the builds take off...Wow

Richard, Jeremy, Max, Stik, Thunderbolt......Way to go guysToast

Frank, thanks for the tutorial on stripping, got an old zero that needs to be stripped....

Rob,Bow Down Awesome MustangYes

Sneak peek......my 98% finished Pony...

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: Ancaster, Ontario
Posted by maxfax on Sunday, May 9, 2010 9:44 PM

Julez

Beautiful build! Which alclad aluminum did you use? I have a question for you about Future. I always have trouble spraying it on- it seems to be pebbly or uneven. I have used it 100% and diluted to 50% with alcohol, and no difference. I use a Testors airbrush with the little blue compressor, so I need to change nozzles for different applications, and I can't alter the airpressure, perhaps this may be the cause. Can you get an acrylic gloss in a rattle can?

Rob

On the bench:  Revell 1/72 HCMS Snowberry

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Dallas, Texas
Posted by NiceFit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 10:01 PM

Thanks everyone for all your input on how to properly apply Alclad II. I'm doing a little experimenting while I'm waiting on the thinner to arrive so that I can strip the paint off my plane. Since I don't intend to install the fuel tanks, I going to use them to test 101 Aluminum adherence to different base coats. On one fuel tank the base coat is Future and on the other fuel tank the base coat is Plastikote Gray Sandable Primer. Both are curing now. I'll apply the 101 to both, let it cure, then put on some masking tape and see if it lifts the paint. The Alclad rep didn't think it would for either base coat, but I need to know for sure - I don't want to go through complete paint removal again! On my actual kit, I will top coat with Future before doing any masking. This little experiment is to simply see how well the Alclad adheres directly to the base coats. If I had some Krylon on hand, I'd experiment with it too.

Vetteman - Let me know if my build can be accepted into this GB. The plane was about 80% complete when the painting fiasco started. Stripping all the paint off makes it feel like I'm starting over, as the exterior paint scheme has proved to be the biggest challenge/effort of the build. (You might recall, I had a P-51 in the 1st GB, where I tried to strip paint but ruined the plastic beyond repair. This P-51 is my second attempt. I will persevere!) Make the call. I'm fine either way. If accepted, it's the 1/48th Revell P-51D done in the roughly 50% NMF / 50% green/yellow/red paint scheme.

Respectfully, Dobby

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Monday, May 10, 2010 3:37 AM

Lots of great work happening here, the NMF craze has been rejuvenated (I know, saying "craze" where paint is concerned is tempting fate...) Zip it! Today I began masking the Thunderjet, using thin slivers of Tamiya tape to outline the panels to remain in the current shade. This is going to take a fair while, several sessions to complete, I reckon.

I'm using Korea: the Air War by Nicholls and Thompson (Osprey, 1991) as my primary reference, and scoured the web for more shots, but there's precious few showing these planes from above or below. As a result, the wing and tail panels masked off will be whatever my guts tells me is reasonable based on the box photos and other modelers' work. The fuselage panels as show on the box faithfully follow the light and dark panel pattern seen in photographs, so I guess it's reasonable to assume they got the wing panels right as well.

More pics when there's something to see,

Mike/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by simpilot34 on Monday, May 10, 2010 5:28 AM

Daywalker

Gotta admit though...

While I am happy that I have found a technique that works, having to strip so many models is a bit of a bummer.

Yes Frank but, at least you have a way out if it does come to that with no worries!!! Always good to have a plan B!!!Whistling

Cheers, Lt. Cmdr. Richie "To be prepared for war, is one of the most effectual means of preserving the peace."-George Washington
  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Brisbane
Posted by Julez72 on Monday, May 10, 2010 7:02 AM

maxfax

Julez

Beautiful build! Which alclad aluminum did you use? I have a question for you about Future. I always have trouble spraying it on- it seems to be pebbly or uneven. I have used it 100% and diluted to 50% with alcohol, and no difference. I use a Testors airbrush with the little blue compressor, so I need to change nozzles for different applications, and I can't alter the airpressure, perhaps this may be the cause. Can you get an acrylic gloss in a rattle can?

Rob

Rob, I can only speculate but to me it sounds as if your not putting it on heavy enough, I use it straight out of the bottle and spray it at 18psi,a light coat to start with then after 15\20 min a heavy coat which i keep on sraying until it looks like it will run...The self flattening properties of future still impresses me even after years of use so if it looks really wet on the model then it should dry very smooth and flat enough for alclad....

Oh yeah on Mrs Bonnie i used alcad white aluminum for the base colour and picked out panels and control surfaces with duraluminum and aluminum.......Hope this helps mateYes

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, May 10, 2010 7:34 AM

Jeremy- YIKES!  What have you gotten yourself into?  Looks like quite a project, too much for me! 

Richard- Looking good there mate, keep the pics coming.

Lancair- Very nice work, those foil finishes are not easy but you make it look so.

Rob- Excellent work on the office, what color did you use for the bronze green?  I like it!

Carlos- That F-84 is coming along very well, which markings are you planning on using?

Julez- Love that 'Stang, especially the spinner!  It's perfect.  Looking forward to seeing more pics soon!

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 10, 2010 2:00 PM

Frank, I am marking it as a MiG killer from the 27th Fighter Escort Group during early in the Korean War. I have a set of Cutting Edge decals for it. I actually bought the sheet for my F-84G kit. But once this kit came out and I did not care for the kit markings, I knew I could use the sheet on both F-84s. This birds markings are actually quite plain. Just some red trim, the usual insignia, and a MiG silhouette. No nose art or other distinctive markings.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: USA California
Posted by vetteman42 on Monday, May 10, 2010 3:08 PM

Daywalker thanks for the How-to-Strip ( paint that is) tutorial. I must admit to sending a few models on that short test flight to the bin due to a botched paint job. I think it will help us all out, well done my friend.

Jmbax wow that swap looks like a rough one to pull off, but its looking great so far, cant wait to see more.

Kermit talk about some fast building geeze Surprise Lookin good so far Toast

LancairIV your build is on the front page and congrads for being the first one there. I really like the differences between the foil and paint on the model, adds a bunch to the over all effect. Another masterful build there Rob.

Maxfax wow you really have a nice pit going there the IP is really nice. Maybe someday mine will start looking that good.

Stikpusher I really like the difference in contrast between the panels, I would say your idea worked out perfectly.

Gamera I hope to see you back with a build, and must say that B-29 would be over the top as a shiny build.

Julez72 that is one sweet Mustang I never get tired of looking at them. I especially like your paint chipping its right on the money.

Nicefit I do remember that build in the first group, was a sad thing you lost it. Your new build is in and on the first page shortly. I hope you can show some pictures of the stripping process.

Thunderbolt379 the Thunderjet is coming along very well cant wait to see more of it. Its good to have you back building with us too.

WOW!!!! see what happens when I miss a day checking in here ?? You guys go and get building crazy LOL. I wanna jump in too but wont be able to start the P-61 for a couple months as I am committed to a couple group builds that are ending soon. I just noticed we are a 5 star group now, thats way cool and I thank you guys for that.

 

Randy So many to build.......So little time

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Rhode Island
Posted by jmabx on Monday, May 10, 2010 4:56 PM

vetteman42

Daywalker thanks for the How-to-Strip (paint that is) tutorial.

Oh boy... Frank and his shenanigans!!! 

 

Jeremy    Propeller

    

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Brisbane
Posted by Julez72 on Monday, May 10, 2010 7:49 PM

Some pics......Mustang no 2 is done...


My Stable so far... Gear bay doors arn't on in this pic but they are now....


 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Monday, May 10, 2010 7:57 PM

Absolutely fantastic, Julez! SWEET work on both! I have the decals for Mrs. Bonnie, it makes me want to build that one!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

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